LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 






s 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



I 



THE 



ADIRONDACKS: 



ILLUSTRATED. 



CONTAINING 



NAKRATIVH OF A TRIP THROUGH THE WILDERNESS, WITH DESCRIPTION OF THE NATURAL 

FEATURES OF THE REGION ; HINTS CONCERNING SUPPLIES AND GENERAL 

OUTFIT FOR CAMP AND TRAIL ; COST AND MANNER OF REACHING 

THE VARIOUS RESORTS *, HOTELS, WITH CAPACITY, PRICE 

OF BOARD, ETC. ; TABLES OF ELEVATION AND 

DISTANCES ; MAPS, ETC., ETC. 



BY 

S-f R-'5, STODDARD 



AUTHOR OF 



**TlCONDEROGA," "LaKE GeORGE, ILLUSTRATED," EtC. 

TWENTY-SECOND EDITION. 

GLENS FALLS, N. Y. 

PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR. 

# 



Copyright, 1892, bv S, R. Stoddard. 



■•joi^y 



GREETING! 1892. 

In the net-work of ways with their multitude of 
branches traversing the wilderness of Northern New York 
continuity of progress may not be. A comprehensive glance 
will help in acquiring necessary details. Information gathered 
from all available sources, is arranged in the following pages 
on a carefully considered system. Here is the key : 

As a whole the Adirondacks is considered on page XIII, 
under the head of "Gateways." Following each gateway are 
lines leading to particular centres, giving distances and fares 
with reference to pages where more extended mention may 
be found. Places and specially noted features are indexed on 
page IX. Hotels, lakes, ponds and mountains are given in 
special indexes. Expenses are touched upon at pages 6 and 
208; various suggestions concerning camp and outfit on pages 
208 to 215; guides, 214; fishing, pages 216 to 223. The 
advertisements (index on page 221) are interesting, for therein 
each man speaks for himself. 

Specific Points about which you would learn may be 
had if you will consult the index. If, instead, you would wander 
free as the vagrant bee, gathering honey from every flower, 
throw the book away — you don't need it. If undecided as to 
way, follow the " Professor "and the writer through the " Nar- 
rative" so long as the company please you. It represents an 
erratic course covering, substantially, the most interesting and 
diverse interior portions of the wilderness, noting by the way 
such changes as time and improved facilities for transportation 
have brought about since the trip was made, and pleasantly 
contrasting the old and the new in the procession of changeful 
years. 



VIII Greeting. 

ply, while paying a fair profit on the money invested. Beyond 
this its usefulness is restricted by the mistaken policy of econo- 
my on the part of the state. 

The State Park as proposed, incloses an area of about 
4,000 square miles, and, while the state has acquired and holds 
with doubtful tenure within its limit, but about 800 square 
miles, 1, 000 square miles are owned by lumbermen who make 
no apologies for following a legitimate business, and over 
2,000 square miles by clubs and corporations and set aside as 
reserved " for the preservation of the forests and the propaga- 
tion of game and fish " and, of course, held for their owners* 
private use. To such ownership the public can have no 
reasonable objection although the restrictions may prove un- 
pleasant to individuals at times, but the public has a right to 
demand that the forests shall be preserved for the public good, 
whoever may own the land, and will fall short of a duty to 
coming generations if it fails to insist on that right. 

A Law should be enacted prohibiting forever the cutting 
of an evergreen tree except with the approval of competent 
authority under the government, on any land in New York 
State lying 1,800 feet above tide. Then let clubs and indi- 
viduals struggle for the acreage to their heart's content. 

This Book is revised and published annually, and, as it 
is impossible for the writer to visit every portion of the wilder- 
ness before pubhcation, it will be considered a favor if anyone 
noting errors or omissions of importance will call attention to 
the fact either in person or by letter. 

Hotel Owners and others proposing to take summer 
boarders in the Adirondacks are requested to send, annually, 
before May ist, information as to the number of guests they 
can accommodate, price for board by the day and week, name 
and post-office address, date of opening and closing, distance 
and direction from some well known point with particulars as 
to transportation, stating price and kind of conveyance. The 
substance of such information will be published free in the 
current number of the book. 



i3^r)B22:. 



PAGE. 

Adirondacks 

In general 1 

Adirondack P. 182 

Adirondack Club.... 130 

League Club 203 

Saniiarium 97 

Mt. Reserve 165 

Ruined Village 127 

Adventure, fish ball.. 101 
Advertisements ...... 237 

Au Sable Chasm 33 

Battle of Plattsburgh. 51 

Battle of Valcour 45 

Beaver Rive'- 207-a 

Bixby, Dr. G. F 53 

Bloomlngdale 62-b 

Blue Mt. Lake 192 

Bluff Point 47 

B«onville 206 

Brightslde-on-Raq'tte 208 

Brown, John 75-82 

Brown Tract 206 

Burlington 31 

Camp, suggestions. . . 211 

Carillon 22 

Carrying experience. 118 
Cedar Lakes (el.2,529) 193 

Cedar River 192 

Chateaugay Chasm ... 52 

Champla'n Lake 14 

Champlain, Sam'l de. 14 

Chestertown 179 

Chlldwold Station. .109-A 

Chubb River 96 

Clmton Prison 57 

Golden Camp : 131 

Crab Island 51 

Crown Point Ruins. . 24 

Cumberland head 50 

Downey's La'diQg..l09-A 
"Eagle's Nest," The.. 122 

Elizabethtown 148 

Esses 30 

Ethan Allen 21 

Euba Dam 151 

Expenses Estimated. 6 
Fiehing, tackle, flies. 216 
F'sh, where found. . . 224 

Forestry Laws 224 

Fort Frederick 24 

Fort Ticonderoga 19 

Gale 99-A 

Gateways, sped 

pages xiii, xiv, xv 

Guides, relating to. . . 214 

Game Laws 222 

Heu'^erson, David.... 127 
Hotels, spe'lindex xi 

Indian Carry 105 

Indian Face 168 



PAQB. 

Indian Lake 191 

Indian Pass (el. 2,937, 

90) 132 

Insect Preparations.. 213 

Keene 83 

Keene Yalley 157-256 

Keesevllle 44 

Lakes, spe'l head., x 

Lake Placid 89-93 

Lake Pleasant 191 

Long Lake Village... 114 

Lowville 206 

Luzerne 177 

Lyon Mountain 59 

Malone 56 

Marion River 203 

MapSi sp^ ^ h^^d-- ^^ 

Map, introduced 7 

Marcy, ascent of 170 

Marion River 197 

Medicine chest 213 

Mineville (el. 1,347,15) 26 

Minerva 189 

Moose River 205 

MountainSfSpe- 

cial head x 

Narrative 9 

NedBuntline 122 

Newcombe 12^ 

North Crtek 189 

North Elba 83 

Old Mountain Phelps 158 

"On the tramp" 125 

Outfit, Suggestions... 4 
Camp and woods. . 208 
Sporting 214 

Parks, Preserves 

Adirondack Club.. 130 

Adirondack Mt 165 

A.L. C 202 

Childwoll 109-c 

Ne-Ha-Sa-Ne 207-b 

Summer 202 

Phanton Fails 120 

Peasleville 62-c 

Pilot, The 13 

Plattsburgh 51 

Pleasant VaVey.. .148-152 
Ponds, spel head, x 

Potsdam.* 181 

Pottersville 180 

Port Henry 24 

PortKent 31 

Railroads, 

Aciirondack '•81 

Adirondack (Nor'n) 57 

Ad'k &St. L 109-B 

Au Sab e Chasm & 
KeesviUe 32 



PAGE. 

A. &St. L 207-B 

Au Sable (branch). 62-d 
Carthage & Adiron- 
dack 207-c 

Chateaugay.. 57, 222-238 

"D. AH." 226 

Fulton Chain 205 

Hudson River 225 

West Shore 225 

Raquette Falls Ill 

Raquette Lake. . ..112, 202 
Rsquette River. 108-109-D 

Ray Brook 94 

Red Horse Chain. . .?07-b 

Riverside 179 

Roaring Brook Falls. 163 

Ro'^k Dunder 31 

Root's 187 

Rouse's Po int 54 

Routes to Gateways . . 225 
Saranac Lake(vUlage) 98 

SagevUle 191 

Sanitarium 95 

Saranac Club 101 

Saranac Lake 62-b 

Schroon Lake 183 

South Inlet V04 

Split Rock 29 

Sporting outfit 214 

Stage Lines to 

Adirondack Lodge. 149 

BlueMt, Lake 191 

Elizabethtown 149 

Keene Valley 149 

Lake Placid 149 

Long Lake 116 

i -Paul Smith's 60 

Schroon Lake.. 149, 180 
St. Regis Lake.... 62-b 

Steamboats, 

Blue Mt Lake 196 

Fulton Chain 207-a 

Hudson River 225 

Lake Champlain... 

10,27,28, 55 

«tony Creek Ill 

Sweeney carry 108 

TahawuB(P. O.) 125 

Ticonderoga, Fort... 19 

Valcour Island 45 

Vergennes 29 

Westport 25 

Whitehall 17 

Willsborough Point.. 30 

Wilmington 62-d 

Wilmington Notch. . . 71 

Wood Creek 17 

Y.M.C.A 25 



Index. 



LAKES AND PONDS. 



KliBVATION 

Albany Lake 1,704 

Amperpand Pond 2,078 

Augur Pond 

Ai) Sable Lake (Lower) . . . 1,959 
All Sable Lake (Upper). . 1,993 

Avalanche Lake 2,856 

Beaver Lake 1,435 

Blue Mountain Lake 1,800 

Bo? Lake 1,755 

Boreas Pond 2,046 

Bottle Pond 

Calamity Pond 2,712 

Canada Lakes (West). .. 2,348 

Cascade Lakes 2,0.38 

CatlinLake 1,583 

Cedar Lakes 2,529 

Chain Lake (Seven) 

Champlain 99 

Chapel Pond 1,551 

Chateaugay Lake CLower). 
Chateausay Lake (Upper). 

ChazyLake 1,500 

Clear Lake 2,159 

Coldcn Lake 

Cranberry Lake 1,540 

Crooked L. (Herkimer Co.) 2.022 

Eagle Lake 1,800 

Elk Lake (Mud Pond) . . .1,981 

Forked Lake 1,753 

Forked Lake (Little) .... 

Francis Lake 1,457 

Fulton Chain— First Lake 1,684 
Fulton Chain— Eighth L. .1,803 

George 343 

Giant's Washbowl 2 233 

Harkness Lake 

Henderson Lake 1,874 

Indian Lake 1,705 

Lake Placid 1,863 



PAGE. 

207-B 

45 
169 
169 
131 

207-A 
192 

227-B 

207-c 

127 

193 

83 

124 

191 

191 

15 

164 

56 

59 

58 

m 

13t 

207-O 



f"- 



197 
187 
120 
121 
207-B 
206 
20(3 
243 
164 
131 
131 
191 
93 



ELEVATION. PAGE 

LewevLake 1,738 191 

Long Lake 1.614 113 

Long Pond 1,581 

Loon Lake (Franklin Co.). 61 

Luzerne LaKe 177 

Massawepie Lake 109-O 

Meacham Lake 53 

Mirror Lake 1,856 88 

Moose Lake 1,787 207-a 

Mud Lake ....1,745 207-b 

Paradox Lake 187 

Paradox Pond 93 

Pharaoh Lake 187 

Piseco Lake 192 

Placid Lake 1,863 93 

Pleasant 1,706 192 

Preston Ponds 2,206 131 

Ragged Lake 53 

Rainbow Lake 62-a 

RaquetteLake 1,774 121-198 

Raquette Pond 109-A 

Red Horse Chain 1,756 207-B 

Round Lake 1.542 100 

Sanford Lake 1,800 104 

Saranac Lake (Lower) ...1,539 96 

Saranac Lake (Middle). , .1,542 100 

Saranac Lake (Upper) ...1,577 126 

Schroon Lake 830 180 

Smith's Lake 1,725 110 

South Pd. (Hamilton Co.)l,769 124 

Stony Creek Ponds 1,643 111 

St. Regis Lakes 1,623 60 

Tear of the clouds 4,321 170 

Thirteenth Lake 1,953 190 

Titus Lake 52 

Tiipper Lake (Big) 1,554 109-E 

Tnpper Lake (Little) 1,728 111 

Utowana Lake 201 

West Canada Lakes 2,348 202 



MOUNTAINS. 
(Table of Elevations.) 



ANK. NAME. ELEV. PAGE. 

Ampersand 3,432 

Bartlett 3,715 169 

5 Basin 4.905 169 

Black 2,661 172 

Blue Mountain 3,824 199 

Catamount Mount'n 3,128 62 

Cobble Hill 1,936 151 

11 Colden 4,753 131 

20 Colvin 4.142 165 

Crane's 3,289 

4 r>ix 4,916 1.56 

17 Giant . . 4..530 160 

12 Gothic -.4,744 160 

6 Gray Peak 4.902 172 

3 Haystack 4,918 169 

10 Little Haystack 4.766 

Hopkin'a Peak 3,136 160 

Hurricane 3,763 151 

Indian Face (appr.). 2,536 161 



RANK. NAME. ELEV. 

Mount Jo 

19 Lyon Mountain.. ..3,809 
Macomb 4,371 

1 Marcy (Tahawus).. . . 5,344 

2 Mclntire 5,201 

14 Nipple Top ...4,684 

Noon-Mark 3,548 

North River 3,7.58 

Owl's Head 2,825 

13 Redfield 4,688 

Resagonia 

10 Saddle 4,536 

15 Santanoni 4,644 

18 Seward 4,384 

7 Skylight 4,889 

Snowy 3,903 

St. Regis 2,888 

Wallface 3,893 

8 Whiteface 4.871 



PAGE. 

86 
59 

2-171 
147 
171 
157 

113 

165 



113 
171 

96 

146 

67 



Index. 



HOTELS. 



PAGE. 

Adirondack Honae 

(Keene Valley) .... 161 
Adirondack Houae 

(Saranac Lake) 98 

Adirondack Lodge... 85 

Alororquin, The 99-b 

American H., N. Ck.. 189 

Antlers, Tbe 19ft 

Banner House GO 

Berkeley House 96 

Blanchard's 300 

Blue Mt. Lake House. 193 
BlueMt.H. (Bl.M.L.). 195 
Blue Mt. H. (Frank- 
lin t'o.) 241 

Brightside on R'q't. . . 200 

Buriington Hotel 352 

Calle Hotel 19v' 

Camp Craig. 207-a 

Cascade Lake House. . 84 

Castle Rusiico 92 

Cedar I. Camp l^OG 

Cbasm House 52 

Champlain, Hotel 47 

Chazy Lake House. . . 58 

Chestkr House 179 

Childwold P'k H....109-C 
Clear Pond H. Big. ... 261 
Cranberry Lake H. . .207-c 

Crystal Spring H C2-B 

Cumberland H 52 

Elba House 93 

Estes House 160 

Fair View House 195 

Fenton House 207-b 

Flume Cottage 163-a 

Forge House 205 

Fourth L. H 206 

Foquet House 52 

Gibbs House 27 

Grove Pt. H. (Sc'n L.) 185 
Grove H. (Long L.)... 115 
Grand View House. . . 80 
Hathorn's Golden Bh. 200 

Hemlocks. The 198 

Hiawatha House, Ill 

Hotel Ampersand 96 

Hotel Champlain 47 

An Sable Chaam 40 

Au Sable Lake 166-c 

Blue Mount'n Lake... 199 

Champlain Lake 16 

Childwold Park 109-C 

Eiizabethtown 166-a 

Forked Lake 199 



pagb. 

Hotel Duane 241 

Hotel Flaragao 56 

Hotel Wawbeek 107 

Indian Point House.. 61 

laterlaken. The 45 

Keene Centre House.. 83 
Lake Placid House. . , 91 
Lake House (Schroon) 186 

Lake Pleasant Inn 192 

Lakeside Hou^e 109 

Lake View House. ... 35 

Lee Houf e 23 

Lelard Cottage 187 

Leiand H^use 185 

Lewey Lake House. .. 193 

Llnwood Cottage 96 

Long Lake Hotel 114 

Loon Lake House..... 61 
McCoy's Rustic L'd'e. 105 

Mansion House 150 

Martin's 96 

Maple Grove Mt.H. .163-a 

Maplewood Inn 150 

Meacbam Lake House 56 

Merrill's 60 

Mirror Lake Hotel. .. 87 
Moose River House. . . 202 
Mt. Morris House. . .109-F 
Mountain View (N. 

Elba) 84 

Mount'nVlew (Frank- 
lin County 56, 241 

Norih River Hotel. ... 190 

Ondawa House 187 

Paul Smith's (St. 

Regis) 62-B 

Pleasant View Houpe 27 
Pond V'ew House. ..109-a 
Pro-'pQct House (Biue 

Mountain Lake 195 

Prospect H. (Schr'n).. 187 

Pottersvllle Hotel 181 

Rainbow House 62-a 

Raquette Falls Hotel. Ill 

Ray Brook House 93 

Ralph's 59 

Redside Camp 109-e 

Rockwell's Hotel 178 

MAPS. 

Gateways xi 

Keene Valley 156 

Lake Piacid 91 

Port Kent Route 26 

Raquette River 116 

Raquette Lalie 199 

Saranac L'ke (low'r)..99-c 



PAGE. 

RiversWe Inn 96 

River View Boose... 178 

RouisseauTnont 91 

Rush Point Camp 200 

Rustic Lodge 105 

Root's 187 

Sagamore (Lor g L.)., 114 
St. Hubert's Cottage.163-c 

St. Hubert's Inn 163-b 

Salmon River Val 260 

Saranac Irn 105 

Saranac Lake House.. 98 
Schroon Lake House. 195 
Stevens H. (L. Placid). 89 

Storrs House 62-e 

St. Reels Lake H....e2-B 

Tabawus House 162 

Taylor House 182 

Tromblee's 108 

Tapper Lake...H. . 109-f 

Under-Cliflf 92 

Valley House 148 

Van Ness House 32 

Watch Rock Hotel... 182 

Wawbeek 107 

Wayside (Luze ne). . . 178 

Westport Inn 25 

Wellf House 181 

White Face Inn 94 

White Face Mt.H.... 62-c 
Wiilsborrugh, The. . . 30 
Winosor (Elizab'hi'i) 148 
Windsor (Schroon L ) 187 
Wltherill House 52 

Albany. 

Hotel Kenmore 235 

Lake George. 

Fort Wm. Henry.. 230 
Hur-dred Island H.. 233 

Burleigh Houjie 233 

Marion Hf use 232 

Pearl Point 232 

Saratoga. 

Clarendon 261 

Dr. Strong's 261 

Windsor 261 

Saranac L'ke(upp'r). . 107 

Saranac Inn Co 107 

Schroon Lake 191 

Tupper LaKe... 109-E, 116 
Wesiport to Lake 
Placid 166-A 



GATEWAYS TO THE ADIRONDACKS. 




(Page reference refers to pppfes in "The Adirondacks Illustrated.") 

Please to consider Mouat 
Marcy the pivot on which mighty 
hands turn around over the dial 
oi the Adirondacks, and Platts- 
burgh will fairly represent I 
o'clock, Port Kent II, VVestport 
III. For convenience, there- 
fore, we will call Plattsburgh 
Gateway No. i, and let others 
follow in order as the hand turns 
the familiar way around the en- 
tire circle. Distances are given 
here in black figures and are 
reckoned from gateways in every 
instance unless otherwise ex- 
plained. Fares are also given 
from " gateways " or point speci- 
fied. 

NO 1, PLATTSBURGH, 
via Chateaugay R. R. to Danne- 
mora, 70c.; Chazy Lake Sta- 
tion, $1 20 ; Lyon Mountain, 

$i.4o(stage to Ralph's and Merrill's, 50 cents); Loon Lake, $2.40; 
(stage to Loon Lake 
House, 50 cents) ;Blooni- 
ingdale, $3.00 (stage to 
Crystal Spring House, 25 
cents ; stage to Paul 
Smith's, $1.00); Saranac 
Lake, $3.35; stage to 
Miller's, The Algonquin 
and Hotel Ampersand, 
50 cents each (page 96) 
stage to Lake Placid, 
$1.25; (page 89); stage 
to Saranac Inn, $1.50 
(page 105). 

From Plattsburgh via 
Branch R. R. to Au Sa- 
ble Station, $1.00; stage 
(morning) to Keene Val 
ley (page 153^ 

NO. 2, PORT 
KENT, by K., A. C 
& L. C. R. R. to Au 
Sable Chasm. (See 
pages 33 to 45), Au 
Sable Station, (morn- 
ing stage),. $1.50; 




Ffearct ihow dt$U»t9 fron Gotftvaf.! ~ Ay$ABLE 




Gateways. 






CROWN 
Par/1 



NO.SjWESPTORT, 

stage (connecting with 
all trains and boats), to 
Elizabethtown , $i .00; 
(page 148). Stages from 
midday train and after- 
noon boat at Westport, 
run to Keene Valley^ 
passing all hotels to St. 
Hubert's Inn. Fare 

$2.50. (See p. 153). Keene Valley to Au Sable Lake morning and 
afternoon. Stage fare, 75c. Stages from Elizabethtown, morning, 
to Keen, $2.50; Cascade House, $3.00; Adirondack Lodge, $4.50) 
Ames', $3.50; Lake Placid, $4. (See pages 83 to 94.) 

NO. 4, PORT HENRY, 
stage (evening) to Mineville, 
morning stage from Mine- 
ville to Root's, $150; (Tues- 
day, Thursday, and Satur- 
day.) to Newcomb, |-^vOo. 
NO 5, CROWN POINT, 
C. P. I.R.R. to Hammondvillp, 60c; stage 
to Paradox, $1.10; Schroon Lake, $2.10. 
NO. 6, TICONDEROGA. Branch 
from Delano to Ticonderoga Village, 2 
miles. (Hotel, Burleigh House.) Special 
to Schroon Lake, 20 m-les, or Root's, 
thence to Long Lake, same as No. 4. 

FORT TICONDEROGA (station); 
through Lake George to 
Caldwell. 

NO. 7, SARATOGA, 
to Luzerne, 69c; (page 
i77)Riverside,$i.5o; stage 
toChestertown,$2.25; Po'- 
tersville, $2.50 ; head of 
Schroon Lake, (steamer), 
$3.25. (See page 180.) 
Saratoga to NorthCreek, 
$1.74; (page i8y) stage to 
North River.$2.25 ;(page 
190), Indian Lake,$3.5o; 
Blue Mountain Lake, 4.75; (page 193) 

Long Lake, $6.25; page 

ii4)through BU;e Mt. and 

Raquette Lake to 

Forked Lake Carry, by 

steamer, $6.50. (Pages 

121 and 202.) 

NO. 8, FONDA, Rail- 
road to Northville, $1.00; 

s^age to Sageville, $3.00. 

For WoodhuU Lake and 

Bisby Chain leave the 

R. W. & O. Railroad at 

tion, special to White Lake 

hull Lake, 19 miles. 



train to Baldwin, steamei 





Alder Creek Sta- 

, 9 miles; to Wood- 



Gateways. 



ALDER CREEK to Honnedaga Lake. 
Club preserve), 30 miles, special conveyance, 

NO. 9, BOONEVILLE. Stage daily 
to Moose River, 12 miles, $1.00. 



(Adirondack League 




Steam- 
er on Fulton Chain to head of Fourth 
Lake (steamer 12 miles, $1.00). Page 
206. 

NO. 10, LOWVILLE, stage to 
"Number Four," Beaver Lake, 18 miles (special 4 or 5 persons, 
$6.) To Stillwater, $12. (Page 211.) 

NO. 11, CARTHAGE, Railroad to Lake Bonaparte. 17 miles, 
54 cents ; Oswegatchie, 39 miles, $1.17 ; Benson Mines, 44 miles, 

$1.32; Cranberry Lake overflow (trail) 48 
miles ; Cranberry Lake House, guide's 
boat, 54 miles, 

NO. 12, DE KALB JUNCTION, stage 
to Clarksboro, 22 miles, special conveyance 
to Cranberry Lake, 36 miles. 

NO. 13, POTSDAM, stage daily to Col- 
ton, .75 cents ; South Colton, $1. To Stark, 
(Monday, Wednesday ,and Friday, at 7 a. m,), 
$1.75; Sevey, $2.75; Child wold, $3. (Page 

1 09- A.) 

N0.14,M0RIA,R.R. to St.Regis Falls, 
50 cents ; Santa Clara, 90 cents ; Spring- 
Cove, $1.15; (Blue Mountain House, 4 

miles from Spring Cove, fare 75 cents;) 

Paul Smith Station, $1.50; Paul 

Smith's (stage), $2. (Page 57.) Sar- 

anac Inn Station, $2; (Saranac Inn 

by stage, $1); Childwold Station, $2. 50; 

(Childwold Park House, by stage, $1 ; 

page 109-C.) Tupper Lake Station, 

E -) $2.50; (Wawbeek 

jT^'"'" Lodge, by stage, $1.) 

\ V..-<fls<"^ Steamboat to Tup- 
per Lake House, 
Is- 50 ; page 109-E. 

NO. 15, MA- 
LONE, stage (Mon- 
day, Wednesday and 
Friday) to Duane, 
$1.50 ; Loon Lake, 

$3- (Page 55). 

NO. 16, CHATEAUGAY, daily stage to the 
foot of Lower Chateaugay Lake, 50 cents. A 
steamer runs daily, making the excursion of the 
two lakes, $1. See pages 55 and 59 to 62. 






THE IDIRONDICKS. 




CHAPTER I. 
In General. 

N wings of thought swifter than the light- 
ning's flash we sweep away across the drowsy 
earth, over smoke -polluted cities, sun- 
scorched meadows, burning plain and high- 
ways with their flaunting skirts of sand, nor 
rest until the fragrant odor of wild flowers 
and the dewy breath of forest trees come 
like incense wafted to us from below. 

Come with me up into a high mountain. 
I cannot show you " all the kingdoms of 
the world," — but "the glory of them." Over a rippling 
ocean of forests first, in long, swelling waves now rising, 
now sinking down into deep hollows ; here in grand moun- 
tains, crested as with caps of foam, there tormented by 
counter currents into wildly dashing shapes, like ocean bil- 
lows frozen by Divine command, their summit-glittering 
granite, their deep green troughs, gleaming with threads of 
silver and bits of fallen sky. 

Now the trees of the valley glide away behind us, then 
come dark spruce and pine and the sturdy balsam climbing 
the mountain-side — tall and graceful at first, but grow'" 
smaller as they rise, gnarled and twisted, and scarce above 
the surface, sending their branches out close along the 
ground, their white tops bleached and ghastly, like dead 
roots of upturned trees, the hardy lichens still higher ; then 
comes naked rock, and we stand on the wind-swept summit 



2 The Adirondacks. 

of the monarch of the Adirondacks — " Tahawus," the 
cloud-spHtter of the Indian. 

Around their chief, cluster the other great peaks — east, 
west, north, south, Umitiess, numberless, a confused mass of 
peaks and ridges, crowding close up to the base of the one 
on which we stand, and receding in waves of green all down 
through the scale of color to its blue and purple edge. Pen 
cannot convey an idea of its sublimity ; the pencil fails to 
even suggest the blended strength and delicacy of the scene. 
The rude laugh is hushed, the boisterous shout dies out on 
reverential lips, the body shrinks down, feeling its own little- 
ness, while the soul expands, and, rising above the earth, 
claims kinship with its Creator, questioning not His 
existence. 

Standing on this, the highest point in the State of New 
York, 5,344 feet above tide, we will glance at the country 
around. The term, at first applied to this cluster of moun- 
tains, which occupy less than one-quarter of the region, has 
come by usage to mean the entire wilderness, an area of 
over 8,000 square miles of almost unbroken forest. The 
grand mountain region is in the center on the east, dropping 
off suddenly into Lake Champlain ; around it, and sweeping 
away to the west, is a vast, comparatively level plateau, 
nearly 2,000 feet above tide, with here and there a moun- 
tain peak overlooking the plain, the two regions differing in 
every respect, save in the dense forests that cover both. If 
you are given to muscular exercise, climbing and viewing 
nature from high places, choose the eastern portion. If con- 
stitutionally tired, or inclined to dream away the quiet hours, 
then go to the magnificent west, where lakes and streams 
are so closely connected that almost every mile of that vast 
tract may be traversed by boat, save short carries from one 
water system into another, or around some fall. Camping 
even is not necessary if you prefer hotel life, for there are 
but few wilderness routes that do not have halting places 
less than a day's journey apart. 



In General. 3 

The Adirondack wilderness, as known to the pubhc gen- 
erally, may be divided into three general divisions or sys- 
tems, which collectively entertain the great bulk of visitors, 
and are representatives of the whole, namely, the Saranac 
and St. Regis waters of Franklin county, whose natural gate- 
way is Plattsburgh and Port Kent ; the mountain region of 
Keene, North Elba and Lake Placid, in Essex county, with 
entrance at Westport ; and the Blue Mountain and Raquette 
waters, in Hamilton county, reached by way of the Adiron- 
dack railroad from Saratoga. 

Of these sections the first-mentioned has become the 
more widely celebrated as a region where fashion and fish- 
ing is admirably blended, and has its jxitrons who are 
looked for as regularly as the seasons. The second is less 
known in fact, but its grand mountains and lovely valleys 
have become familiar on the canvas of great painters ; while 
the Raquette region has an air of newness and morning 
freshness, as if just awakened from a long and refreshing 
sleep, and is making rapid strides in popular favor. Each 
section, while possessing something of the characteristics of * 
the others, has its own individual attractions; and while 
connected by natural highways, over which the norniad often 
goes, they still to a considerable extent preserve their indi- 
viduality, and each is complete and sufficient unto itself. 

Among the less noted divisions are the Grass and Oswe- 
gatchie region, in St. Lawrence county, which probably 
contains the most game, because less visited ; the Beaver 
and Moose river region, in Herkimer, somewhat tame, but 
affording excellent hunting and fishing ; and the Lake 
Pleasant region, in southern Hamilton county, all of them 
with more or less local interest and a patronage derived prin- 
cipally from the cities of Central and Western New York. 
Keene Valley is a favorite resort with artists. Raquette 
Lake has the most elaborate, and the Upper Saranac the 
greatest number of private camps occupied during the season. 



4 The Adirondacks. 

Places of entertainment, from the well-appointed hotel on 
the bolder to the rude log-house and open camp of the 
interior, are found at intervals throughout the entire wilder- 
ness, all waiting with open doors to receive the stranger, the 
consideration being from $3 per day down to $5 per week ; 
for particulars concerning which see under heading of 
" Hotels," following index. 

A peculiarity of the Adirondack region is its freedom 
from rough or vicious characters. Evil finds nothing con- 
genial in its bright skies and pure, fresh atmosphere. Con- 
ventionalities that obtain at other resorts are not held 
binding here; the fact of actual presence is accepted as 
guaranty of the possession of those mutual sympathies and 
qualifications which here, at least, make the whole world kin, 
and makes it possible for gentlemen to wear blue shirts and 
old hats, and ladies to travel without male escort from one 
end of the wilderness to the other. Indeed, it is no uncom- 
mon thing for parties of ladies to make the tour of the 
woods, accompanied only by the necessary complement of 
guides to furnish motive power, spending day after day in 
their boat, and at night reaching one step farther in the 
extended system of hotels. 

Outfit. — Full dress is seldom seen, even at the most 
fashionable resorts, and is exceeded in absurdity only by the 
conventional stage trapper, who occasionally bursts upon 
the astonished wilderness in fringed buckskin, and is marked 
at once as a " fresh." Your right to enter the best society 
will not be questioned because of dress. Clothing ordi- 
narily worn is sufficient for all occasions, with perhaps the 
addition of a soft felt hat and roomy walking shoes or boots 
for boat or tramp. 

Camp and Sporting Outfit, clothing, supplies, etc., are 
given in a special chapter, with various suggestions ; how 
ever, a complete list of articles considered necessary or con, 
venient should be made out, in advance of the time for 
departure, by each individual; then, in committee of the 



In General. 5 

whole, decide on what is really necescary or suitable, taking 
into consideration the nature of the trip and means of 
reaching the appointed camping ground. If it be not over- 
difficult of access, carry anything which will contribute to 
your reasonable comfort, in the way of blankets, clothing, 
etc. Do not sleep in the clothing worn during the day, if 
it can be avoided — it is a positive luxury to be able to 
make an entire change for night use. 

The gloriously healthful air of the wilderness will unques- 
tionably give you new life and vigor, but it labors at a ter- 
rible disadvantage, if at the beginning your bed of boughs 
affords no rest; where sleep comes only with complete 
exhaustion, as is often the case in the first few nights of 
camp life, and where the early morning finds you pitiably 
weak and languid, and ready to move simply because motion 
is a relief to the poor bruised body and aching joints. 
"Roughing it" is grand in theory, and sounds well in after 
history, but is bad in practice and often impedes, if it does 
not entirely defeat the object for which it was undertaken. 
You are. presumably out for pleasure, do not, therefore, 
make severe labor of it; have paid help sufficient to do 
camp work, if, at any time, inclination tempt you to watch 
the zenith from some mossy vantage ground, or to drift idly 
among the still waters, absorbing with newly awakened 
instincts the g\ibtle lessons taught by nature. 

If your party can afford the expense, take your cook 
along. Guides, as a rule, can prepare an acceptable forest 
meal, and some are very skillful in that line, but the very 
qualities which contribute to make the successful guide — 
*' the mighty hunter" — often renders him indifferent to the 
quality of his food, and incapable of understanding the 
cravings of a delicate appetite ; at all events, carry a cook 
book. Camp fare is apt to become monotonous after a 
time, and although familiar with a hundred dishes, when 
brought face to face with the appalling necessity of prepar- 
ing a straight meal, your mind becomes a blank and you 



6 The Adirondacks. 

drop weakly back to the same old stew of yesterday— and 
the day before — and life becomes a burden. 

Expenses cannot be fairly estimated, varying so widely 
with the habits and requirements of different individuals. 
If you travel simply in channels having public conveyance, 
the cost may be accurately determined by referring to fares, 
etc., found under their a.ppropriate heading in this book. 
If you go outside the public lines of travel, or camp, you 
will require the service of a guide. 25 to 30 cents per day 
will supply the table with . necessaries, and some luxuries 
even, for each person while in camp. 

Guides, terms for service, suggestions, etc., page 214. 

Hotels. — Information relating to hotels is gathered an- 
nually, and prices charged for board given with notice of 
house in " Hotel Directorv," at back of book, for which see 
special index, page vii. 

" Gateways " will lead you from circumference to centre 
of the wilderness, with line, distances and fares ; while under 
the heading of " railroads, steamboats and stages," will be 
found approaches and general information — for all of which 
see index. 

Trout, their habits and peculiarities, with suggestions ax 
to outfit, fishing, etc., is treated at length in chapter XIX. 
The article is from the pen of A. N. Cheney, of Glens 
Falls, an enthusiastic. votary of the gentle art, and authority 
in the matter whereof he speaks, and gives, in readable 
shape mxore solid information of use to those who would 
enjoy the same than a dozen of the ordinary fishing 
romances of the day, with their sensations, impivssions, 
tingles, thrills and frills. 

Finally, bear in mind that this volume is designed to give 
its readers, m convenient sha^ e, information of general 
interest to the ninety and nine concerning points and places, 
roads and regions visited by them, with hints and sugges- 
tions of the deeper mysteries of camp and trail that may 



In General. 



7 



serve to pilot the one-hundredth to points where the inteUi- 
gent guide becomes an absolute necessity, and beyond which 
direction in book form would confuse, rather than instruct. 
For the sake of clearness, therefore, we have omitted descrip- 
tion of the multitude of minor lakes, ponds, streams and 
trails which duplicate each other over the entire wilderness, 
and which cannot be followed without the aid of an experi- 
enced guide. To those who would have a comprehensive 
idea of the whole region, it is hoped the map, designed to 
supplement the information contained herein, will be a wel- 
come companion until it can be safely laid aside for the more 
specific knowledge of the guide, whose office neither book 
nor map can ever fill. 

As the map of the wilderness is introduced, it may not be 

entirely uninteresting to ex- 
plain its manner of build- 
ing. A large portion of the 
great Adirondack region has 
never been surveyed with 
chain and rod, and probably 
will not be for years to come, 
but the rapid development 
of portions and the grow, 
ing importance of the 
whole as a summer resort 
makes necessary a map made 
specially to meet the re- 
quirements of tourist and 
sportsman. 

In its construction, all available sources of information 
have been brought into requisition. Important points 
outside the wilderness proper were determined in 
accordance with official surveys, and connected with 
the mountains of the interior, whose principal peaks 
were accurately located by triangulation made expressly 




MINIATURE SKETCH OF MAP. 



8 The Adirondacks. 

for this work. Access has also been had to important sur- 
veys made under State patronage and by private parties, 
which are now, for the first time, given to the public in map 
form. In addition to this absolutely reliable material, draw- 
ings of small sections on an extended scale, covering in the 
aggregate the entire region, were sent in duplicate to men 
familiar with the various localities for correction, and were 
made as full and complete as possible — careful attention be- 
ing given to proportion and distance — with wild trails, car- 
ries, ponds and streams, many of which are now for the first 
time laid down on any map. Reduced to an uniform scale 
by photography, the result, it is believed, approaches per- 
fection as nearly as can be, short of actual trigonometrical 
survey. It gives altitudes, as determined by late measure- 
ment ; the location of all hotels and principal camps, with 
roads leading thereto ; shows distance in figures on roads, 
trails and streams, and indicates also the nature of the latter 
in important instances. All roads within its limits are care- 
fully laid down, the leading ones distinguished from those* 
less important by being in solid black line, and altogether 
showing, by their number or entire absence in places, the 
cultivated or wilderness nature of that particular region. 

To the gathering, compilation and reduction of the mass 
of material made use of, and its final redrawing for the 
engraver the entire autumn and winter of 1879 were given 
and finally, with a feeling of tenderness which can be 
appreciated only by those who, in a labor of love, have seen 
its object growing under their hands from day to day until 

completion, it was sent forth for such welcome as it might 
find. 

Since its completion in 1879, as above, annual editions 
have been issued, revised, and corrected, to keep pace with 
the changes in road and trail, and for the addition of camp 
or hotel in this rapidly-growing region. 



CHAPTER II. 




Narrative. 

ING up the curtain to low, sweet music, — the 
music of a September night, where the blending 
of the myriad voices of the swamp into one 
long monotone, seems to make you, wherever 
you stand and listen, its center. The scene is 
a dark waste of water, up out of which grow 
reeds and coarse grasses that sway back and 
forth with the surging waves. Over at the 
west is a low range of bluffs ; on the east are 
mountains; near by, dusky white strips run 
here and there, beyond which a broader one 
reflects the cloudy sky, where dark bodies are 
moving slowly along and lights twinkle as they pass to and fro. 
Beyond at the south, a high hill rises, belted with strings of 
stars; at its base the stars hang in clusters; they separate and 
pass up and down, are swung in circles, appear and disappear 
in a most curious manner, while faintly comes the voices of 
the boatmen, and the busy hum of the distant village. At 
the north, where the western wall comes down, the solid rock 
is notched out ; over it rise the rocky crests of a mountain 
range, while away beyond winds the marsh-embroidered, rock- 
hemmed waters of Lake Champlain. 

A low, rumbling sound comes from the south, then the solid 
wall that shuts us in on that side seems riven asunder, and from 
out the earth, with breath of flame, and eye of fire gleaming 
out ahead, thunders the night express. Across the marsh, 
it comes, bringing in its train a host of lesser lights, and 
with a shriek that clashes sharply and is broken into a con- 
fused din of echoes, plunges into the northern wall, through 



ro The Adirondacks. 

the narrow cut to the other side, then with the hiss of escap- 
ing steam, the noisy clanging of its bell, the rattUng of iron 
rods and links, the trembling, jerking and swaying of the long 
coaches, as the brakes are drawn hard against the moving 
wheels ; and with the dying roar of its subsiding power, the 
iron monster rests at the end of its journey. Just for the mo- 
ment we feel the hush— 

" The rest of the tide between the ebb and the flow." 

then the nature of the sounds change. We hear the quick 
sharp words of command, of shouting, of confusion, and the 
shuffling of feet as streams of life pour out from the various 
coaches and converging, flow over the broad plank on to the 
boat waiting there to receive them. There is no need of 
asking the way ; it is plain to all, for while on the left is but 
darkness and a dingy, uninviting pile of buildings, on the right 
rises a great mass of white, with moving forms and flashing 
lights ; of windows bright, with stained glass and frosted silver, 
rising tier on tier, begirt with beams and rods of iron, and 
above all, coming up from the fires below, wave banners of 
flame, whose fiery atoms, separating, dance away and are lost 
in the darkness. 

Whew ! What a storm, — not a thunder storm exactly, al- 
though there are indications of the sulphurous in the language 
sometimes heard, but — of baggage. It rains trunks, boxes, 
satchels, bundles, bags, from the car which has been brought 
to a stop directly in front of the gang-plank, and a double 
stream of trucks, drawn and propelled by stalwart men, go 
down under huge loads, and, coming up empty, run and wheel 
and dodge about, appearing always on the point of, but never 
actually running over something or getting run over themselves. 

Through all the confusion the man who seems to have the 
least to do stands quietly by the rail, seeing every thing, but 
saying nothing, unless occasionally to give a command in a 
low tone ; then, as the last truck load is on the move, he 
touches a cord at his hand, a bell up in the pilot house tinkles, 
a few quick strokes on the big bell follows, the last man rushes 
over the plank, which is pulled aboard, the great hawsers are 
cast off and the little bell, up where the pilot stands, tinkles once 



Under Weigh. ii 

more, signifying that the boat is from thence out under his con- 
trol, and he responsible for her safety. 

Now, down along the wires to the engine-room the message 
goes; we hear the long hollow breathing of the steam as it 
rushes into the cylinder ; the ponderous beam above tips 
slowly on its center ; the wheels seem stepping on the water 
as they revolve ; and the great mass swings out into the chan- 
nel, and moves away through the night like a great pearl sur- 
rounded by a luminous atmosphere — a shining world all alone 
by itself.* 

Thus we saw it one night in the autumn of '73. We 
means the professor and myself. Who the professor is, or 
what he professes, doesn't matter as long as this is a non- 
professional trip, but it may be 
of interest, considering the field 
selected for our observations, to 
know that the professor is not 
actually stupendous either in 
length, breadth or thickness. 
Neither is he particular about 
his diet — perish the thought — 
he simply abstains from the 
absorption of that mysterious 
compound known as hash, 
on account of the uncertainty of its origin ; revolts at sight 
of sausages, as it is unpleasantly suggestive of a dear 
little dog that he once loved ; can't endure cream in his 
coffee, because it '' looks so, floating round on top," and 
whose heart bleeds and appetite vanishes if an unlucky fly 
should by any chance take a hot bath in his tea. To these pe- 
cuHarifies, add a disposition to see the fun in his own forlorn- 
ness, and, with boyishness died in the wool, the professor stands 
before you. As for the author of this, perhaps the least said 
the better. He hasn't the heart to say anything bad, and a 
determination to confine himself strictly to facts, interferes 
somewhat with the glowing eulogy struggling to find vent ; 

*The boat is now taken at Ticonderoga, leaving about noon on arrival of 
passengers from the Lake George boat, reaching Plattsburgh at night and 
returning to Ticonderoga next morning. 




12 The Adirondacks. 

suffice it to say, that nature was very lavish in the bestowal 
of longitude, although not noticeably so in regard to latitude, 
giving also a disposition to dare, and a physical develop- 
ment capable of enduring a vast amount of arduous rest ; 
going — the dainty professor and ease-loving writer, enthu- 
siastic sportsmen, with neither gun, rod, umbrella or other 
instrument of death, armed only with sketch-book and note- 
book, and hearts to drink in the glories of the great wild 
woods — to the mountains for health and strength to frames not 
over strong. 

We found ourselves on board the " Vermont," the largest 
of the Champlain steamers. As it swung out into the chan- 
nel, we went out forward, up odd little pieces of stairway and 
canvas side hills ; ducked under and climbed over iron rods 
and groped along in the darkness on the hurricane deck finally 
to enter the pilot-house. 

When our eyes grew accustomed to the darkness, we could 
distinguish the form of Rockwell, the chief pilot, and his two 
assistants, wrestling with the many-spoked wheel, which 
throbbed and trembled as it was forced over to one side or to 
the other while the lights ahead seemed to swing swiftly past 
as we swept around sharp bends in the narrow channel. 

A quick, low word of command, the chain rattled and 
the wheel spun around like lightning as the men jumped away 
from it. 

" Now !" said the pilot. 

Six hands pattered on the polished spokes, and the air 
seemed full of clawing, jumping shadows. 

" Over with her !" 

The wheel creaked with the strain brought to bear on it ; the 
lights away out ahead, which had passed across to the right, 
now raced wildly back to the left, and we circled around in 
the darkness, out of which, into the circle of light that sur- 
rounded us, came reedy shores and low lines of bushes, seem- 
ing almost to brush against us as we passed. 

" Steady now," said the pilot. " Good evening, gentle- 
men." 

The last half of the sentence was evidently intended as a 
sort of reconnoissance. It had inquiry m it. It said plainly, 
*' I want to hear your voj_ce." 



The Pilot. 13 

We said, " Good evening." 

** Up a little — steady — let her run — Oh, yes; I didn't 
recognize your voice — hard over that light's out again — 
you are a little hoarse ; ought to take something for that." 

*' We were ; a trip to the mountains ; " and he said it was 
an excellent plan — ]et her chaw; the reaction will clear her 
— ' wished he could — luff a point — among the grand things 
— said she was light aft, and clawed to starboard ; asked if 
we could fully indorse Tyndall's theory of nebular hegira ; 
thought the Greek slave a perfect figure ; said she sucked 
mud through here, sometimes, and they had to be careful 
of her flues ; wanted to know if we had given the evolement 
of solar faculae much thought ; descended with Darwin to 
our remote progenitors ; gyrated among the wheeling con- 
stellation ; floated through eternity ; touched on the crea- 
tion ; paddled around with Noah ; got lost with the children 
of Israel ; skittered along down through the dark ages ; said 
it wasn't going to rain, which suggested Sodom and Gomor- 
rah; admired Joan of Arc — said she carried an awful head 
of steam, but her boilers were good ; wanted our opinion as 
to the probable origin of creative energy and of the cohesive 
materialism of latent force. Shades of Egypt ! the professor 
wilted, and we had to admit that Moses himself couldn't 
have taken us out of the scientific wilderness, and Rockwell 
thought Moses wasn't much of a pilot anyway. 

Thus he mixes art, science and physics while demonstrat- 
ing perfection in navigation ; peering out into the darkness, 
seeming to feel rather than see tl^e channel ; now circling 
around a lamp hung out as a guide, then away toward others 
that seem to pass and repass each other, as we sway to and 
fro, where in places a deviation the width of the boat to the 
right or left would bring it on the muddy banks ; at times 
seeming to hang out over the reeds, anon waking a whole 
swarm of hissing, chuckling echoes as we run close under a 
rocky wall ; then onward, into broader strips of water, under 
the frowning promontory of Ticonderoga; then we v^^ent 
below. 




CHAPTER III. 
Lake Champlain. 

HE first white sporting man that ever visited 
the Adirondacks was Samuel de Champlain, a 
Frenchman, who, in 1609, joined a company of 
native tourists on a gunning expedition to the 
southern borders of the future State park, 
where he fell in with a party of Iroquois and 
succeeded in bagging a satisfactory number. 
Samuel, besides being an enthusiastic sports- 
man, was of a vivacious, happy disposition, as 
witness his felicitous description of the mannei 
in which he, at the first shot, brought down 
three out of four Aborigines, who broke cover, 
then pursued and killed some others ; he 
should, however, receive no credit as a marksman, for he 
used a beastly arm called an "arquebus," a remote progeni- 
tor of the terrible blunderbuss — a shot-gun, which same, 1 
think, all will agree is beneath the dignity of a true sports- 
man to point toward such game. After this adventure, 
which happened the same year that Hendrick Hudson sailed 
up the river that now bears his name, and eleven years 
before the original pilgrims landed on Plymouth rock, he 
returned home and wrote an interesting account of the 
affair, calling the sheet of water explored after himself — Lake 
Champlain. Just two ceiituries after his passage in a canoe, 
the first steamboat was launched on the lake. When he came, 
the Indians called it Cam adere quarante, spelled in various 
ways, and said by learned authorities who copy it from some 
one else, to mean " the lake that is the gate of the country." 
By the early French who did not choose to recognize Cham- 
plain's right to the name, it was known as Mere les Iroquois, 01 
"Iracosia." A book published in 1659 speaks of it as "the 
lake of Troquois, which, together with a river of the sjhm 



The Adirondacks. 15 

name, running into the river of Canada, is sixty or seventy 
leagues in length. In the lake are four fair islands, which are 
low and full of goodly woods and meadows, having store of 
game for hunting. Stagges, Fallow Deer, Elks, Roe Bucks, 
Beavers, and other sorts of beasts." 

In shape Lake Champlain is very like a long, slim radish, 
with Whitehall at the little end, with long roots and outbranch- 
ing river fibers. At Burlington it is quite a respectable radish, 
then come blotches of rock and islands, and beyond that, the 
leaves, spreading out on either side and toward the North. 

On the east is Vermont, sweeping away from the lake in a 
broad, cultivated plain gradually ascending to the ridges of 
the Green mountains. Along the southern and central por- 
tion of the lake the rocky western shores come abruptly to 
the water's edge. Backward, rising ridge on ridge, the high- 
est, misty with distance or hidden by the clouds that gather 
around; wild, broken and grand, are the Adirondack moun- 
tains. Here and there are little bits of cultivated land and 
breaks in the mountains that are the gateways to the wilder- 
ness. Farther north they fall away back into the interior, and 
a level, well- cultivated country presents itself. 

According to the United States coast survey, the distance 
from Whitehall to Fort Montgomery is 107 J miles. Its 
greatest width, which is near the outlet of Ausable river, is 
12J miles. Its greatest depth (at a point ij miles south-east 
of Essex landing) 399 feet. Measuring north into Missisquoi 
bay, on the east side (which extends down into Canada, and 
is separated from the outlet by Alburgh Tongue), the extreme 
length of the lake is about 118 miles. Its elevation above 
tide is 99 feet. 

It contains a number of beautiful islands, the principal ones 
being near the north end. The two largest are known re- 
spectively as North and South Hero, and collectively as Grand 
Isle, together forming a county of Vermont. 

The New York and Canada Rail Road, extending 
along the west shore of the lake, is a link in the air line 
chain between New York and Montreal, supplied by the 







T 
^ 




Whitehall. 17 

Delaware & Hudson Canal Company, in 1875, and m con- 
nection with the Rensselaer & Saratoga Railroad and 
Hudson River at the south, and a section of the Grand 
Trunk from the Canada line north, is the main artery of 
travel between the two great cities. At various points, rail 
or stage routes diverge, leading to the central portions of the 
wilderness. 

Whitehall is at the head of Lake Champlain ; 219 miles 
north of New York, 78 from Albany. As we break through 
the ledges and approach from the south, the valley spreads 
out toward the east in a fertile plain ; at the right, toward the 
north, is quite a mountain, girded with outcropping ledges 
that run up from the east at an angle of about thirty degrees, 
and are broken off precipitously on the west ; all along this 
front, houses cling one above another like rows of martins' 
boxes, and wooden stairways run zigzag up the sides, which, 
if bought by the acre, would bring the most measured per- 
pendicularly. Climbing the stairway we look down on the 
business portion of the village, close, compact and city-like 
below and thinning out gradually up the hill on the west. 
Going still higher, a pathway is found leading to the summit 
which is comparatively clear and affords a wonderfully fine 
mountain view for a little exertion. 

Whitehall was originally called Skeenesborough, after Col 
Philip Skeene, who accompanied Abercrombie in 1758 ; wa« 
wounded in his attack on Ticonderoga and, after Amherst's 
victorious advance in the following year, was appointed com- 
mandant at Crown Point, at which time he projected the set- 
tlement In 1765, he obtained a grant of the township and, 
in 1770, took up his residence here. On the breaking out ol 
the Revolution he took sides with the Royalists, accompanied 
Burgoyne in his expedition against Ticonderoga and was 
captured with him at Saratoga ; his property was confiscated 
by act of Legislature in 1779. 

Wood Creek, that fi"om its very head, has flown sleepily 
along, seems to have awakened suddenly and with a quick 
itart, a joyous little run, a little foam and a little racket 
plunges over the rock*, and dies out in the muddy lake at 



1 8 The Adirondacks. 

our feet. Close to the falls the canal boats and small steam- 
ere come, and line the banks of the bayou-like lake that leads 
away to the north through what seems a basin scooped out 
of the mountains, its marshy bed filled here and there with 
pieces of "made" land on which are steam mills, and long 
piles of lumber, representing the principal business of the 
place. 

At Whitehall, the train divides, — a part going east and north 
via Castleton and Rutland, the remainder north, down along 
the principal street, through the tunnel, out at the north edge 
of the village to the lumber district, and across the marsh- 
bottomed basin toward a notch cut out of its farther rim. 

Just before entering the rock-cut alluded to, we see on the 
cast a short double crook, in the narrow channel, known as 
the Fiddler's Elbow, where the large steamers were com- 
pelled to send a line ashore and " warp " round into a proper 
position to proceed; here, under water, are the hulks of some 
of the vessels engaged in the battle of Plattsburgh, in 1814. 
On the high point of rocks just over and slightly to the north 
of the Elbow is Fort Putnam, where the old colonial general, 
— Israel — lay in ambush, waiting for the French and Indians 
under the command of Marin. 

The steamboat dock, formerly the northern terminus of the 
road, with its half-demolished sheds and old elevator, is, par- 
adoxically speaking, left on the right as the train skims over 
the surface of the marsh on the long trestle, straight as the 
arrow flies, for over a mile, and over the draw at the outlet 
of South bay, along which Dieskau led his men to attack 
Fort Edward, failing in which they turned toward Lake 
George and fell in with Col. Williams on that memorable 
8th of September, 1755. 

Winding in and out we continue along the west shore 
breaking through rocky points and cuts, where the clay has 
been sliced down and removed like huge chunks of cheese, 
revealing on their face horizontal strata that must at some 
time have been the bed of the lake. On the east, at inter- 
vals, are the odd, little light houses and posts where lanterns 
were hung to mark the tortuous channel. Low reedy islands 



TiCONDEROGA. 19 

and points float outward from the shores, anO the grand, 
rocky gateways opening up as we advance, revea3, vistas of 
wondrous beauty, strips of far-reaching water, and the blue 
of distant mountain peaks. Between the solid points we 
cross on trestle work or made land, and which same openings 
have proved a delusion and a snare to the unfortunate con 
tractor doomed to wrestle with them. 

Twenty-two miles from Whitehall, our rope of travel is 
divided in three strands, the one at the left branching off 
around Mount Defiance to the foot of Lake George, the mid- 
dle continuing on by rail along the west shore, and the remain- 
ing one proceeding in nearly the same direction by steamboat, 
touching at the principal points by the way.* 

Fort Ticonderoga is 24 miles from Whitehall on a bold 
promontory between the waters of Lake Champkin and the 
outlet of Lake George. 

Here were enacted the principal events in the play of the 
.ake ; here savage tribes contended for the country on either 
nand ; here three great nations struggled for the prize of a 
continent, and precious blood flowed like water for this, the 
key to the "gate of the country," by its position elected to 
become historic ground ; as such, let us glance briefly in 
passing. 

Claimed by the Hurons and Algonquins on the north, and 
the Five Nations, on the south, Lake Champlain was perma- 
nently occupied by neither, but the gateway between two 
sections that were continually at war with each other, the 
bloody middle ground over which each party in its turn swept 
carrying ruin in its path. This had driven all who would 
have occupied it beyond the mountains, and the lovely shores 
remained in unbroken solitude. Thus Champlain found it 
when, in July, 1609, he sailed south with the Indians from 
the St. Lawrence to make war upon their southern enemies, 
and " encountered a war party of the Iroquois on the 29th ol 
the month, about ten o'clock at night, at the point of a cape 
irhich puts out into the lake ou the west side." They each 
retired until the morning, when a battle ensued Champlaio 



20 IHE Ai>IRONDACKa 

wai kept out of sight until they marched to the attack. Hi 
says: "Ours commenced, calling me in a loud voice, and, 
making way for me, opened in two and placed me at thcit 
head, marching about twenty paces in advance until I was 
within thirty paces of the enemy." 

" The moment they saw me they halted, gazing at me and 
1 it them. When I saw them preparing to shoot at us, 1 
raised my arquebus, and aiming directly at one of the three 
chiefs, two of them fell to the groun'^ by this shot, and one ol 
their companions received a wound, of which he died after- 
ward. I had put four balls in my arquebus. Ours, in witness- 
ing a shot so favorable to them, set up such tremendous 
shouts that thunder could not have been heard ; and yet there 
was no lack of arrows on one side and the other. The Iro- 
quois were greatly astonished, seeing two men killed sc 
instantaneously, notwithstanding they were provided with 
arrow-proof armor, woven of cotton-thread and wood. * * ' 
They lost courage, took to flight, and abandoned the field and 
their fort, hiding themselves in the depths of the forests, 
whither pursuing them I killed some others. ♦ * ♦ The 
place where the battle was fought is 43 degrees some minutes 
latitude, and I named it Lake Champlain."* Ticonderoga i9 
\3)4 degrees north latitude and probably the cape referred to 
'which puts put into the lake on the west side." 

The French claimed the country by virtue of Champlain's 
discovery, and in 1731, while at peace with Great Britain, the^f 
advanced to Crown Point and erected Fort St. Frederick. 

The English claimed this territory by right of purchase and 
treaty with the Five Nations, and feeling that something 
must be done to prevent further encroachments of the French 
on British soil. General Johnson was sent, in 1755, to drive 
them away, going by way of Lake George, where he halted 
for a few days, when Baron Dieskau made a dash around 
French mountain, defeated Col. Williams' party and attacked 
ihe main army, in which he was defeated. He then returned 
to Ticonderoga and began the erection of a fort which he 
cal'H"Car/Z&w." 

* Documentary IT istory of New York. 

t Dr. G. F. Bixby, wh^ se rei^earches among historical matters relating' to the 
Champlain Vaky 1 as made him an authority, in a paper read before the N. Y. 
State H;s:ori( al ijociety in iSig, bi ought evidence to show that " the cape " re- 
ferred to by Champlain is the one on which Crown Point ruins now stand. The 
evidence was accepted by the Society as conclusive. 



TiCONDEROGA. 2 I 

In 1757, it was occupied by Montcalm, who marched thence 
to the capture of Fort William Henry. 

In 1758, Abercrombie made his unsuccessful attack on the 
Did French lines, which resulted in his total defeat, with a 
loss of nearly 2,000 killed and wounded. 

The following year Amherst entrenched before the lines, 
and the French, feeling that they could not successfully resist 
him, abandoned and set fire to the works, which the English 
took possession of in the morning. They then advanced on 
Fort St. Frederick, the French retreating down the lake ; their 
hold on Champlain gone forever. 

Amherst repaired and enlarged the works at Ticonderoga 
and Crown Point, on a scale of great magnificence, but never 
a shot from the frowning embrasures was directed against an 
approaching foe. Peace between the nations soon followed 
and the forts were allowed to fall into a state of ill repair and 
were poorly garrisoned when the revolution broke out. 
Crown Point had only a sergeant and 12 men and Ticon- 
ieroga 50 men all told, when in the gray of the morn- 
ing of the loth of May, 1775, Ethan Allen and 83 of his 
" Green Mountain boys," stole in through the wicket gate 
and demanded its surrender ** in the name of the Great 
Jehovah and the Continental Congress." Crown Point was 
on the same day taken possession of by a party of Allen's 
men under Seth Warner, and soon after a sloop of war was 
captured by Benedict Arnold, by which the colonists gained 
command of the lake. 

The following year Arnold, in command of a small flotilla, 
was defeated near the Four Brothers' islands by General Carl- 
ton, who advanced as far south as Crown Point, then retired 
Into Canada. 

In 1777 there came sweeping from the north the conceited, 
the pompous, the brilliant Burgoyne with 7,500 men and laid 
siege to Ticonderoga. St. Clair, then in command had barely 
sufficient troops to man the principal works, and when the 
English took possession of Mount Defiance, from which they 
could drop shot right over into the fort, he decided to aban- 
don it and did so on the night of July 4th ; all the stores that 
could be taken were removed, guns were spiked and at mid- 



^^ The Adirondacks. 

night a dusky throng moved away across the chain bridge 
Unfortunately for the Americans, a house on Mount Inde* 
pendence was set on fire and the light revealed the fugitive 
army to the watchful enemy, who immediately pursued. The 
greater part retreated toward Castleton and were followed, en- 
gaged and beaten ; the English, however, suffered terribly, it 
is said, losing ten to one of the Yankees. The rest moving 
up the lake toward Whitehall were pursued by the British 
who broke through the chain bridge and reaching the head 
of the lake almost as soon as they, captured most of the 
stores and ammunition, the men retreating to Fort Ann ; after 
this Burgoyne moved south to Saratoga, where his march ol 
triumph was changed to one of defeat, for he found the 
Gates too strong for him to pass. 

After " Saratoga "the British retired into Canada, but in 1780 
the old fort was again occupied by the troops under General 
Haldiman, at which time occurred those bloodless battles ol 
diplomacy, where Allen plotted treason with such con- 
summate sagacity, that his country's enemies rested on theii 
arms and " peace reigned throughout her borders." 

Then came another enemy, silent, but resistless as the 
march of time. Rain and sunshine, frosts to rack and tem- 
pests to beat upon the old walls, until they totter and fall 
away, disappearing, one by one, and pointing to the time 
when naught shall remain but the name it bears, and that 
uncertain in the mists of the past. 

"Ticonderoga"* — the generally accepted extract and 
boiled down result of over a dozen different Indian names, 
all, however, having something the same sound — as TiencU* 
roga, Cheonderoga — meant to them the coming together, or 
meeting of waters^ instead of the generally accepted version 
of " Sounding waters." 

Carillon, the name given it by the French, meaning music, 
racket, a chime, may have been suggested by the *' Sounding 
waters " near by. 

The old batteiy on the bluff, at the steamboat landing, it 



t Coldca, iTif. FoiHMlI, tn4* 



Crown Point. 23 

said to have been the original Carillon. Back on the higher 
ground are the barrack walls, trenches, two bastions, and the 
best preserved portion of the ruins — a bomb-proof room, 
which some people say was the magazine, while other author- 
ities contend that it was the humble but equally necessary 
bakery. On the east, by the side of the road, is the old fort 
well. Leading from the south-east corner of the parade to- 
ward this, is the covered way, through which Ethan Allen 
went in the gray of the morning, in 1775. On the west is 
Mount Defiance. Between it and the fort the outlet of Lake 
George enters Lake Champlain. Opposite the point at the 
south-east, the lake is narrowed down by the near approach 
of Mount Independence, which was also fortified while St. 
Clair held command. Between the two points ran the chain 
or floating bridge. 

The lake here turns toward the north, thus washing three 
sides of the promontory. Among the oaks, just west of the 
tunnel, is the old French lines, reaching over the ridge and 
nearly across the peninsula. The trenches and embankments 
are clearly defined, as are also the outhnes of several re- 
doubts, cast up at about the same date. Across the locust- 
covered flat, just north of the ruins, from a point near the 
drawbridge, lay Ethan Allen's route in 1775; and on the 
plain, near Addison Junction, according to the best author- 
ities, occurred the encounter between Champlain's party and 
the Iroquois. 

Crown Point is n miles north of Ticonderoga. Here, 
on the shore, are the furnaces of the 
Crown Point Iron Company, and the ter- 
minus of a narrow-gauge railway, which 
extends back 13 miles to iron mines at 
Hammondville, 1,300 feet above the lake. 
Thence, by stage, to Schroon Lake. 




24 The Adirondacks. 

Crown Point Ruins are about six miles north of Crown 
Point landing. The lake is here narrowed down by the land 
extending from the west on which the ruins stand, its point 
marked by a stone light-house, Chimney Point approaches 
from the east side. Beyond the light-house, at the narrowest 
place in the passage, are the scarcely visible remains of Fort 
St. Frederick, built by the French in 1731. This point be- 
came a noted trading post, where the savages came to ex- 
change peltry for civilized fire-water and other necessaries. 
Under the protecting guns of the old fort it developed into a 
village of 1,500 inhabitants, the remains of lines of cellars and 
flagged walks, extending back toward the west, still showing 
signs of its old-time prosperity. 

The ruins of Crown Point proper are seen farther over at 
the west, as the boat passes through the narrow opening to 
the broad lake. It was commenced by Amherst in 1759, and 
completed at an expense of over ten million dollars. The 
extensive earth-works, and the walls of the barracks, still in a 
good state of preservation, indicate the strength and extent of 
the fortification, from which, however, no gun was ever fired 
at an approaching foe. Dr. Bixby designates the shore of the 
peninsula west of the ruins as the probable site of Champlain's 
battle with the Iroquois in 1609, given in the explorer's own 
words on page 14. 

Fort Frederick (landing) is just north of the light-house. 
A board walk extends from the dock back to the ruins. Re- 
freshment rooms, a public pavilion, etc., have been built here 
by the Champlain Transportation Company, for accomodation 
and entertainment of excursion parties that may land here. 

Port ITenry, two miles north-west of Crown Point Ruins^ 
is exceedingly picturesque, 
with a number of elegant 
private residences, occu- 
pied by the iron magnates 
of that section. 

The Lake Champlain and Moriah R. R. is seven miles 
Jong, extending from Port Henry to the ore beds at Mineville, 




Westport. 



25 



1,300 feet above. The grade at one point is 2562^ feet to the 
mile. The average is 211 feet. It contains three " Y's," 
where the nature of the ascent renders a curve impracticable. 
Mineville is the centre of the mining operations of the region, 
and is a wonderful revelation to the novice in mining scenes. 
The Chever Ore Bed is two miles north of Port Henry, near 
the lake shore. ' 

The Y. M. C. A. of Albany has a small camp on No-Man's 
Island about a mile south of the Barber Point Light House — 
the summer rendezvous of a large number of Association men 
and boys, who ''rough it" in the most approved style under 
the supervision of the General Secretary. Their accom- 
modations consist of an open camp where they sleep at night, 
plentifully supplied with blankets, with other accessories to 
make them comfortable in this out-of-door life. Three gen- 
eral regulations apply : Implicit obedience to leader and rules, 
attendance at Bible study, quiet at 10 p. m. The days are 
spent in fishing and boating excursions to various parts of the 
lake. They are a jolly lot, and welcome visitors with right 
good will. 

Westport is a pretty little village, on a deep bay, setting 
into the western 
shore, fifty miles 
north of Whitehall. 
It is the natural 
gateway into the 
mountsi[ns,via Eliz- 
abethtown and 
Keene Valley (see page 149), and possesses attractions of its 
own that recommend it strongly to the summer visitor. 

The Westport Inn stands on the brow of an abrupt emi- 
nence a hundred feet above the lakes, and overlooks a tennis 
lawn shaded by fine elms, the picturesque steamboat landing, 
the great sweeping amphitheatre of hillside leading away to 
right and left, the circling shore of the bay and the beautiful 
chain of the Green Mountains across in Vermont. The house 





I— ( 

« 
O 

K 



Westport. 27 

is very attractive. It has broad piazzas, is neat and thoroughly 
well furnished, has pleasant parlors and a fine airy dining-room, 
with a large open fireplace. The table is spoken of in the 
highest terms of praise, and the service most efficient. There 
are bath rooms, a pure water supply and perfect drainage. 
Water comes from a wonderful mountain spring 500 feet above 
the lake. There is a livery stable under the patronage of the 
house, and the picturesque drives offer great variety with 
ever-varying change of scene. The situation also offers the 
usual boating und fishing facilities. Bathing places with good 
bottom and convenient bath houses are there ; a circulating 
library. Post Office and telegraph office are near by. There 
are accommodations in the " Inn," the '' Over-the-Way," and 
the three cottages for 150 guests. It continues under the 
skillful management of Mrs. O. C. Daniell, assisted by Mrs. 
H. C. Lyon. Rates, $3.00 per day. By the week they vary 
from $10.00 to $21.00. Open May 15. 

The Gibbs' House, formerly Richard's House, is now 
under the management of N. J. Gibbs. It is situated in 
the northern part of the village overlooking the lake, and af- 
fords accommodations for 40. Rates $2 per day ; $8 to $14 
per week. Free stage to R. R. Station. Open all the year. 

The Pleasant View House, at the depot, affords a con- 
venient stopping place for parties arriving by night trains. 
Steamer Chateaugay, Capt. Baldwin, leaves Westport at 
7 a. m. daily, Sundays excepted, and touching at Cedar Beach, 
Thompson's Point, Essex, Willsboro, Burlington, Port Kent, 
Bluff Point, Plattsburgh, Gordon's and Adams', reaches North 
Hero at 12:20 ; returning, touches as above, and arrives at 
Westport 6:45. 

This boat belongs to the C. T. Co., and was launched at 
Shelburn Harbor November i, 1887. It is 203 feet long, 
and 59 feet wide over all. Water line, 195 feet ; beam, 30 
feet. The hull is of rolled steel plates, made from Chateau- 
gay ore, with a wrought iron frame, braced in the most sub- 
stantial manner, and provided with water-tight compartments. 



28 The Adirondacks. 

The engine is a vertical beam, jet condensing engine, 44-inch 
cylinder, i o foot stroke. The paddle-wheels are of the new 
"feathering" pattern, 23 feet in diameter. The boat draws 
four and a half feet of water, and will make 20 miles an hour. 

Steamer Vermont, Captain B. J. Holt, of the same line, 
is a graceful vessel, designed specially for pleasure travel. 
This boat leaves Plattsburg at 7 a. m., touches at Bluff Point, 
Port Kent, Burlington, Westport, Port Henry, Fort Frederick 
and Crown Point, and reaches Fort Ticonderoga about 
noon, connecting there with trains for the south and for 
the steamer on Lake George, returning over the same route 
reaches Plattsburgh about 7 p. m. Steamboat and railroad 
tickets are interchangeable between Ticonderoga and Platts- 
burgh. 

The " Water Lily," a small steamer, runs from Westport 
to Vergennes daily on arrival of steamer Vermont from the 
south, returning in the morning to connect with the south- 
bound boat. The water Lily is notable among steamboats 
as having a lady at the wheel, in the person of Mrs. Captain 
Daniels, who is said to be the first and only regularly licensed 
lady pilot in the United States. 

•jC ^|f tJ? ^ 5yC ^ 3|C ^ 

Calamity Point is on the west, about two miles north of 
Westport. Here the steamer Champlain was wrecked in 
1875 while running north on her regular night trip. The im- 
mediate cause of the disaster has never been explained, as 
the night was no more than ordinarily dark, but since that 
time, day or night, when running, the pilot houses of the sis- 
ter boats invariably contain two competent men. Captain 
Rushlow, now Gen. Agent, was then in command of the Cham- 
plain, and it was due to his cool self-possession that no panic 
ensued to lead to loss of life. 

Split Rock Mountain extends along the west shore, ter- 
minating in a sharp point 8 miles north of Westport. Barn 
Rock (a corruption probably of Barren Rock) shows the up- 
turned edges of strata lying at a sharp angle with the surface 



Split Rock. 29 

in a bold point enclosing a deep harbor. ** The Palisades," a 
Httle way north, are grand perpendicular cliffs. Rock Harbor, 
a mile further north, shows an " effort," where Gotham's ex- 
Boss, Tweed, tried his hand at digging ore. Grog Harbor — a 
charming little cove despite its - name — is near the northern 
end of the mountain. 

1 2 3 .4 




SPLIT ROCK FROM THE NORTH. 
I Grand View Mt, Vt. ; 2 Split Rock Light ; 3 Split Rock ; 4 Whalon's Bay. 

Split Rock is at the northern termination of the mountain 
bearing the same name. In the uncertain records of old In- 
dian treaties, it is claimed that this rock marked the line be- 
tween the tribes of the St. Lawrence and those of the Mo- 
hawk Valley. 

Otter Creek enters the lake from the east something over 
five miles north of Westport. This is the longest river in 
Vermont and is navigable to Vergennes whose spires may be 
seen some distance inland. Fort Cassin stood at the mouth 
of Otter Creek. Bits of the works are still visible. Within the 
creek a portion of the American squadron was fitted out in 
1814, which, under Commodore McDonough defeated the 
British Commodore Downie, at Plattsburgh, in September of 
that year. 

Vergennes is eight miles back from the lake, as Otter 
Creek runs, although in an air line but Httle more than half 
that distance. It is one of the oldest cities in New England, 
chartered in 1788. It is also the smallest incorporated city in 
the country. The city limits include an area of ijxij miles. 
The Stevens House will accommodate about loo guests. 
Board $8.00 to $12.00 per week. S. S. Gaines, proprietor. 

Essex is a small village on the west shore, 10 miles ncMili of 
Westport. Thj B )quet river empties into the lake four ni.les 



30 



The Adirondacks. 



north of Essex landing. It is navigable for about a mile. It 
was a rendezvous of Burgoyne's flotilla in the advance on Ti- 
conderoga, in 1777, and in 181 2 was entered by British gun- 
boats to work the destruction of the little village of Wills- 
borough, a mile inland. 

*' The Willsborough " with capacity for about 100 guests 
stands on Willsborough Point, a low peninsula about four 
miles long by one wide, separating Willsborough Bay from the 
main lake. J. Henry Otis, proprietor. Rates $3.00 per day; 
$12.00 to $18 00 per week. Open June to October. Rail- 
road station is Willsborough, five miles distant at the south. 
Fare by house carriage 75 cents. The proprietor is attentive 
and obliging, the table superior and the accommodations very 
satisfactory. 

The American Canoe Association holds its annual meet 
this year on the north end of Willsborough Point, August'4th, 
to 25th. It is an International organization with a member- 
ship of something over a thousand, composed largely of literary 
and professional men from all parts of North America. The 
Association is bound by a code of rules that keeps it free from 
what may be termed "professionalism." Its 
official organs are " Forest and Stream " and 
" Rudder, Sail and Paddle." The initiation 
fee is one dollar, annual dues one dollar. 
Charles Winne of Albany, is Commodore, and 
W. B. Wackerhagen of Albany, Secretary and 
Treasurer. 

The Association is divided into four divis- 
ions. Eastern, Northern, Atlantic and Southern. E. L. French 
of Buffalo, is Vice-Commodore, and C. C. Bellman of Amster- 
dam, Purser of the Central Division, in whose jurisdiction the 
Meet is held this year. The A. C. A. was organized at Lake 
George in 1880, and has met annually since that time 
at Lake George and other places. There are a number of 
lady members of the Association and their camp is always 
an interesting feature of the Meet. The entire camp is 




Burlington. 31 

under strict police surveillance. Strangers are not allowed 
on the grounds except under certain restrictions. 

The Four Brothers are near the middle of the lake, east of 
Willsborough Point. Here occurred the running engagement 
between Benedict Arnold and Captain Pringle, in 1776, in 
which the English were victorious. Juniper Island is north- 
east of the brothers, with high, almost vertical walls, sur- 
mounted by a lighthouse. 

After leaving Essex Landing the boat passes out into the 
broadening lake, gradually nearing the Vermont side in the ap- 
proach to Burlington. Back inland are the two highest peaks 
of the Green Mountains — Mansfield, 4,360 feet above tide 
and Camel's Hump, the Leon Couchant oi iht French. 

Shelburn Farm, the summer place of Dr. W. Seward Webb, 
is on the east shore. North extends Shelburne peninsula 
terminating in Pottier's Point. 

Shelburne Harbor is east of Pottier's Point. Here are the 
shipyards of the Champlain Transportation Company. It is 
worthy of note that but one year after Robert Fulton's steam- 
boat was launched on the Hudson River a steamboat was built 
and launched at Burlington. It could run five miles an hour 
without heating the shaft ! 

Rock Dundar is a prominent object, as we near Burlington. 
It is a sharp cone about 20 feet high, believed by Winslow C. 
Watson, the historian, to be the famous ''Rock Regio" so 
frequently mentioned in colonial records. 

Burlington is a city of nearly 15,000 inhabitants. It is 
one of the largest lumber marts in the country, standing 
fourth in the order of business. The firms doing business m 
this line represent a capital of $4,000,000.00. One hundred 
and fifty million feet of lumber are sold annua% from this 
market. The Champlain Transportation Company has its 
general office here. Capt. George Rushlow, for so many years 
in command of the " Vermont," is General Agent. The Lake 
Champlain Yacht Club has an elegant club house a little way 
north of the steamboat landing. 



32 



The Adirondacks. 



Among public buildings of note are The University of 
Vermont, the Medical College, Billings Library Building, 
Vermont Episcopal Institute, St. Joseph's College, Park 
Gallery of Art, Fletcher Free Library, Mary Fletcher Hos- 
pital, and The Young Men's Christian Association building. 

On the high land back of the city, overlooking Winooski 
Valley, in the Green Mountain Cemetery, lies the body of 
Vermont's famous son, Ethan Allen. A monument of Barre 
granite, 50 feet in height, surmounted by a statue of Allen, 
marks the spot. 

Hotels. Hotel Burlington, a new house, capacity 100, 
rates, $2.00 and $2.50 per day, $10.50 to $15.00 per week, 
Delaney & Harrington, proprietors. The Van Ness and 
American Houses, rates, $3.00 to $3.50 per day. L. S. Drew 
and H. N. Clark, managers. 

Port Kent is 10 miles from Burlington, the steamer 
running almost due northwest from the latter point and veer- 
ing only slightly from its course to pa s around Trembleau 
Point. Below, the town is not very attractive; but above, 

along the brow of the 
hill, are several very 
pleasant, comfortable- 
looking houses. 
Among them is the 
old home of Elkanah 
Watson, whose 



Figures show di 




ac- 



count of travels in 1777 contains the best record we have of 
the towns and villages at that period. The house may be 
identified by the tall columns along its front. 

Au Sable Chasm, three miles distant, is reached from Port 
Kent over^he new K., A. C. &L. C. R. R., which crosses over 
just below Rainbow Falls, to Au Sable Chasm Station, and 
continues along the west side of the river to Keeseville, for 
which see page 44. 



CHAPTER IV. 




Au Sable Chasm. 

U SABLE CHASM is the Yosemite in 
miniature. The Au Sable River, coming 
out from the mountains of the south, 
through the valley past Keeseville, breaks, 
after many a rush and tumble, over the 
rocks into Au Sable Chasm, in the beauti- 
ful Rainbow Falls, then hurrying downward 
through devious ways, creeping under 
towering cliffs, resting in dark places where 
the sun never shines, finally emerges from 
the gloom into the broad willowy way to 
mingle later, after many twists and turns, 
with the quiet waters of Lake Champlain. 

It is a vast fissure in the Earth's surface, its walls, that now 
stand apart, were apparently united and solid in the past ; pro- 
jections on the one side are faced by corresponding depressions 
on the other ; strata, broken off here are continued over there. 
Low down are found petrified specimens of the first orders of 
animal life and ripple marks made whea the rock was in its 
plastic state — the bed of some lake or ocean — and above 
these, in successive layers, towers nearly a hundred feet of 
solid rock. 

Who can say what ages have passed away since the restless 
sea beat upon this unknown shore and left the marks of its 
wavelets for us to wonder at ? Thought is lost away back in 
the eternity of " The Beginning " when darkness was upon the 
face of the deep. Later came the dawn of Creation, and in 
its full light the lowest of animal creatures lived their brief day 




THE GRAND FI.UME. 



Au Sable Chasm. 35 

and added their mite to old Ocean's bottom. Long ages rolled 
away. Floods swept over the uneasy world that reeled and 
staggered with the pulsations of its heart of fire. The thin 
shell bubbled up into mountain ridges and broke like crackle 
glass, then, cooling, left its marks in ragged heights and fear- 
ful dv.'pths. Then came great icebergs, grinding the uplifted 
points to atoms in their course, polishing, leveling and filling 
up the openings and leaving, when the water fled away, the 
seams and cracks filled with the rich alluvium holding in its 
bosom the germs of vegetable life which in time should cover 
all with a mantle of green. Then the yearly rains descended 
and the floods swept down from the mountains above, washing 
outward the loose deposit that had filled the great crevices, 
and revealing this wonderland of " The Walled Banks of the 
Au Sable.'"' 

Au Sable Chasm had been of local interest for years, but 
was little known outside until about 1873, when a couple of 
Philadelphians, to whose attention it had been called, acquired 
possession, and built stairways, galleries and bridges, which, 
with the aid of boats near the lower end, enabled visitors to 
pass through its entire length. In 1879, the wooden galleries 
were replaced by stone walks with substantial iron railings ; 
bridges were erected above high water mark or made movable 
so as to be taken up at the close of the season and put back in 
the spring, and new boats were placed in the navigable waters 
below Table Rock, to carry visitors through the otherwise 
inaccessible portions. Guides can be had if desired, but their 
attendance is not necessary. Once in the Chasm there is no 
difficulty in finding the way through, as signs, giving the names 
of notable points, and guide-boards, distributed along make 
the way plain to Table Rock, where boats are taken. These 
boats are serviceable and capacle of withstanding much harder 
usage than can possibly be anticipated in their use here. 
They are a "^ut 30 feet long, flat bottomed, with swelling 
sides and bow md stern rising high out of water, fashi^.icd 



36 The Adirondacks. 

after the style of dory of the cod-fishermen on the Newfound- 
and banks. They will carry thirty persons each and arc in 
charge of boatmen of experience, thoroughly familiar with 
every turn in the erratic current. The ride through the lower 
chasm and down the rapids, while it may stir the blood of the 
visitor with a little pleasing excitement, is attended with no 
danger, so that the most timid need not hesitate about going. 

An admission fee to the chasm is charged according to cir- 
cumstances. Large parties are admitted at reduced rates and 
permanent guests of the Lake View have free access at all 
times. The chasm is under the same management as the 
hotel, the proprietor of which should be addressed for privi- 
leges or particulars. 

The Lake View House which stood on the high land over- 
looking the slope toward Lake Champlain at the east and the 
head of the chasm at the west, was burned to the ground at 
the opening of the season last year. The lesse and manager, 
with characteristic energy immediately began the erection of 
temporary structures for the accommodation of expected 
visitors, and, while permanent guests were obliged to look else- 
where, transients, whose main object was to see the wonderful 
Chasm hardly realized the loss. Accommodations are now of- 
fered for about 100 with dining capacity practically unlimited, 
providing due notice be given in advance. The regular rates 
are $2.50 per day with special price by the week. Carriages 
meet all trains at the Chasm Station for which a nominal sum 
(25 cents for the round trip) is charged. Passengers holding 
through tickets on the D. & H. Railroad or Champlain steam- 
ers north or south are given stopover privileges at Port Kent. 
The appurtenances of the large hotel generally are all there, 
including telephone, telegraph, excellent livery, etc. The pro- 
prietor, William H. Tracy, has proven himself efficient under 
trying circumstances and has been very successful in making 
and keeping friends and patrons. 

Descending the abrupt hill toward the west the upper en- 
trance to the Chasm is reached. Admission is gained through 




HORSESHOE FALLS. 



Au Sable Chasm. 39 

"The Lodge." a picturesque building, octagonal in form pago 
da-like, unique and attractive. Within will be found photo 
graphs, books and curios pertaining to the place, and the most 
gracious of wardens who will show you down the steep stairs 
that lead through the cleft rock to the bottom. Before de- 
scending, note the queer effect the stained glass in the lodge 
windows gives to objects seen through them, where the blue 
makes frosty winter, and the red the most insufferable of sum- 
mers of the same objects. 

Rainbow Falls, at the head of the chasm, flings its mass of 
water from nearly 70 feet above into the gulf below, and from 
an equal height, when the conditions are right, a stream Hke a 
great waterspout is thrown away out over head from the flume 
of the works above. Horse Shoe Falls is nearly opposite the 
entrance. Note its suggestive shape from the lookout, before 
descending the stairs. 

Pulpit Rock faces us as we approach the Elbow, which is 
the first turn below the entrance. Split Rock shows on the 
left at the farthest point visible as you turn around the Elbow, 
The rock which stands at the left of the opening made by the 
splitting ofl" of a large fallen mass is called the Elephant's 
Head, and with the morning sun hghting up the massive 
front, the name does not seem inappropriate. 

Slop when you reach the end of the bridge that crosses 
here. The Devil's Oven is in the wall which shuts ofl" our 
farther advance on the right of the stream. Why " Oven " is 
not so clear, for if you cUmb the rough rocks and enter its 30 
feet of depth, you will not find it the superheated place sug- 
gested, but rather the reverse. The same trophical imagina- 
tion that conceived of this and some of the other names ap- 
plied to places here, gave to the narrow passage-way at our 
feet the name of Hell Gate, and looking, one does not really 
wonder at the fancy. From Hell Gate rising in a great sweep 
heavenward, away from the rushing waters, is Jacob's Ladder. 
Across the bridge we go, around the rocky abutment toward 
the left, clinging perhaps to the iron railing which prevents 
our sliding into the water below, beneath overhanging rocks, 



Au Sable Chasm. .j 

over the seething water, across the bridge which spans the 
Devil s Punch-Bowl-pausing perhaps to glance into the green 
depths of the Fernery at our left-down across the worn 
rocks, then zig-zag up the side to a higher level. Here is one 
of the most remarkable specimens of rock boring in the coun- 
try, called Jacob's Well, showing where some vagrant stone 
caught perhaps in an eddy when the stream ran here and 
whirled about continually, ground its way down through the 
strata of soft rock, until it wore itself out in vain beatings 
against its prison walls. Here a bridge crosses Mystic Gorge 
to the Long Gallery beyond which, descending, we come to 
Point of Rocks. Note high up the sides of those rocks the 
segments of a large bowl similar to Jacob's Well, and back 
ward the rapids which, seen from this point, in the sunshine at 
noon are very beautiful. Opposite this point is Hyde's Cave 
named after a venturesome individual who, in 187 1 let him- 
self down by a rop^ from the rocks above and was the first to 
reach^ its dual entrance. Below the bridge, which leads to 
Hydes Cave, on the same side of the stream, is Bixby's 
Grotto. ^ 

Returning to the north shore, Smuggler's Pass, directly op- 
posite the Grotto, is crossed by a bridge. You may follow 
along the ledge if you like and lose yourself from sight where 
back from the river, this passage winds into quite a large 
chamber. More stairways are found as we proceed then 
comes the Post Office. This post office has neither Post Mas- 
ter nor distinguishing name in the postal department, but 
nevertheless does a large business, peculiarly its own, as the 
observant visitor will notice. No charge is made here for 
drop-letter or cards and many avail themselves of the privilege 

Chngmg close to the rocks protected by the iron railing we 
pass along high up at this point, then through the Hanging 
Garden, and, descending, cross to Table Rock. 

From the upper point of Table Rock look backward through 
the Upper Flume. See Column Rocks at the farthest visible 
point on the left, and, if the sun be right, notice the Altar- 
clot^ hanging over the water at the right. Turning • the 



42 Au Sable Chasm. 

Anvil is before you, partially hidden perhaps, by the rustic 
canopy which has been built against it to afford shade for 
such as may care to take advantage of it when, for the two or 
three brief hours in the middle of the day, the sun pours its 
beams down into this open space. Back of the Anvil, Cathe- 
dral Rocks rise a hundred feet above the level floor, suggest- 
ing in their broken lines, some vast cathedral's ruined towers 
and aisles. "The Sentinel" stands guard at the outer corner 
of Cathedral Rocks. 

Through a cleft in the lower edge of Table Rock we 
descend and enter the large batteaux found waiting here for 
the passage through the Grand Flume and beyond. Do not 
fear, for these boats are strong and serviceable to withstand 
the hard knocks they get at times, and in charge of stalwart 
boatmen who will guide us safely through the exciting passage 
below. The Grand Flume reaches from Table Rock for 
some distance down. Here the water runs straight away, shut in 
by walls that rise perpendicularly up for more than a hundred 
feet, while the dip of the rock-strata on either side gives one 
the queer sensation of running down quite a steep hill. 

Here, at the narrowest place, the cliffs are scarcely ten feet 
apart and the sky above seems but a narrow ribbon of blue. 
The water seems to round up in the middle and actually to 
run on edge. No plummet has ever been found to sound its 
depths. Over this spot the main road crossed years ago and 
the place is spoken of now by the older inhabitants as " High 
Bridge." A story is told to the effect that when after a time 
the bridge was condemned and the plank taken off leaving 
only the naked log stringers stretched across, a horseman went 
over one dark and stormy night, unconscious of his danger at 
the time, although remembering afterward that as he ap- 
proached in the intense darkness, his horse had hesitated and 
when urged, moved forward in fear and trembling. 

The Lower Gate- Way ends the Long Flume and ushers us 
into the Pool. The Sentry Box is at the right as we emerge 
into the open space. On the left there is a larger creavasse in 
which, leaning, stands the Broken Needle. At the Pool, the 
river turns sharply to the left and leads downward over danc- 




THE SKNTINEL. 



44 The Adirondacks. 

ing rapids where we go until, rounding to the right, we enter 
quiet water once more, and finally pass out into the basin 
where, at the landing, carriages are taken to convey us back to 
the hotel. 

It is well to have passed through Au Sable Chasm once in 
a life time. Such scenes make man realize the puny crea- 
ture that he is, for — in the somewhat stalwart language of 
Will Carleton : 

" To appreciate Heaven well 

It is good for man to have some fifteen minutes of Hell." 

Photographs of the Chasm may be procured at the Lake 
View House, where large books, showing the series, are on 
exhibition. 



The Chasm House is on the west side of the river, toward 
Keesville. It is a substantial-looking stone building, and 
affords accommodations for 25 guests. M. Whealon, pro- 
prietor. Rates, $2 per day, $10 to $14 per week. This 
house is open the year round. 

Keeseville is on the Au Sable River, four miles from Port 
Kent, and nearly two from Au Sable Chasm. It is one of the 
thriftiest and most enterprising little villages in the state. It 
contains a number of fine private residences and public edi- 
fices, built of the beautiful, creamy sandstone which underlies 
this section of the country. The water-power is utilized in the 
twine, wire, and iron manufactories, and by the Au Sable Horse- 
Nail Company, here, and at the Nail-Rod Works, on the 
road to Au Sable Chasm. It has numerous churches, a graded 
school, and a wide-awake weekly — the Essex County Republi- 
can — which keeps the public in a healthy state of agitation. 

H. M. Mould, druggist and bookseller, supplies many 
things required in the woods — and the sportsman will do well 
to consult his needs before going into the farther country. 
Mr. Mould's assortment of things, ornamental and useful, is 
large and well chosen. ' 



Valcour Island. 45 

The branch railroad from Port Kent ends here — was buit 
in fact in the interests of the horse-shoe nail works that form 
the great industry of the town. Its opening to this point 
proved a great convenience to resident and visitor alike. 
Livery accommodations can be had for the continuation of the 
trip up the Au Sable River or through Wilmington Pass — one 
of the most picturesque passes of the Adirondacks — to Lake 
Placid, if it is found that stage accommodations are unsatis- 
factory. A very good hotel provides for guests at about $2.00 
per day. 

The Interlaken is at Augur Lake, a charming bit of water 

two and a half miles south of Keeseville. The house is three 

stories high, with verandas, and as a concession to those who 

may fear fires, has inside and outside stairways for the upper 

floors. Accommodations are offered for about 100 guests. 

Its opening is problematical at this writing. The lake affords 

fine boating and fishing. Beyond the lake rise the rocky walls 

of Poke o' Moonshine and Baldface mountains. At the south 

is the wild Poke o' Moonshine Pass, and near by is Augur 

Chasm, one of the many wonderful freaks of this section, in 

character like that of Au Sable Chasm. 

4c « % * « « • 

Returning to the steamer, we see, three miles north of the 
landing at Port Kent, the sandy mouth of the Au Sable River. 
" Au Sable " means *' a river of sand." A wooded depression 
in the ground above shows the course of the river. Across 
from this is the widest uninterrupted portion of the lake, the 
distance being nearly eleven miles across. Measuring into 
Mallett's Bay, the distance is nearly thirteen miles. 

Valcour Island is about six miles north of Port Kent, the 
steamer passing between it and the main land on the west. 
Here, Oct. 11, 1776, occurred the first naval engagement of 
the Revolution, between the British, commanded by Captain 
Thomas Pringle, and the Ameiicans under Benedict Arnold. 
The British plan was to send a fleet from the north to capture 
Ticonderoga and clear the way for a junction with tke army of 



46 The Adtrondacks. 

the south, that should come by way of the Hudson. Early in 
the spring they began the construction] of ships at St. Johns, 
and the last of September the fleet, consisting of a three-masted 
vessel carrying eighteen guns, and two schooners with thirteen 
guns each, with smaller vessels — twenty-nine vessels in all, 
mounting eighty-nine guns, manned by picked seamen and 
practiced gunners — moved south to the attack. When it be- 
came known that preparations of this nature were in progress 
at St. John, Arnold was commissioned to construct vessels to 
oppose them, and massing all possible help and material at 
Skenesborough (now Whitehall), set about the work with tre- 
mendous energy, and in August put afloat a number of flat- 
bottomed sailing craft and row galleys, carrying altogether 84 
guns and 152 swivel-guns. The largest of these vessels was 
the ''Royal Savage," a two-masted schooner carryir.g fourteen 
guns. With this force Arnold sailed north, going as far as 
Windmill Point, then returning, took up a position in the nar- 
row channel between Valcour Island and the main land. 

The British fleet, running before the strong north wind, 
passed on the outside of the island and some distance beyond, 
before discovering the position of the Americans. So severe 
was the wind that the larger vessels could not be brought 
back to attack and only some of the smaller ones with the 
schooner Carleton finally succeeded in getting in position. 
The engagement continued most of the afternoon during 
which the "Royal Savage " was disabled, and drifting on the 
rocks was abandoned. During the night it was set on fire by 
the British and sunk. Portions of the hull can yet be seen 
when the water is still, resting on the bottom where it then 
went down. The attacking vessels were recalled and anchored 
in line at the south to cut off the retreat of the Americans. 
During the night however, the Americans slipped through the 
British line and in the morning were discovered making in- 
dustrious tracks toward the south and safety. The British 
pursuing, over-hauled Arnold near the Four Brothers and a 
running fight ensued which demonstrated the superiority of 



Battle of Valcour. 47 

the British vessels and gunners. The remnant of the Ameri- 
can boats, almost disabled, was grounded in a bay on the 
Vermont shore near Panton and set on fire, and Arnold and 
his men made their way through the woods to Crown Point. 
In these engagements, although defeated, Arnold acquitted 
himself in such a manner as to win the admiration of his 
enemies and the approval of his superior officers. Benedict 
Arnold was born in Norwich, Conn., Jan. 3d, 17 41, and died 
in London, June 14, 1801. As a youth, turbulent; as a 
soldier, ambitious, bold to rashness and jealous of his fellow 
officers; dishonest. The transition from discontented rebel to 
infamous traitor was easy. He was a brilliant commander* 
his fall was like that of Lucifer. 

Valcour Island was the spot selected for '' A communal 
home, based on the principles of social science," where 
the " Dawn Valcour Community " dawned on the astonished 
world of 1874, grew into a mighty power (on paper), with 
" Col." John Wilcox to furnish the intellectual, and " Uncle" 
Owen Shipman the temporal home ; where congenial spirits 
were invited to commingle in promiscuity, but all too soon 
were on the ragged edge of individuality, while the musical 
auctioneer warbled over the odds and ends that remained to 
satisfy outside demands. In the words of one of its leading 
members, the thing ^'busted;" and the " Dawn" was merged 
into twilight, to furnish another lesson on the practicability of 
free love. 

Hotel Champlain, the superb, is seen on the bold head- 
land that puts out from the west shore just north or Valcour 
Island. It does not come upon you suddenly, as arLvelation. 
You have seen it over the lake for miles back 0:1 3 our course, 
before the steamer had touched at Burhngton, perhaps, or from 
the car window as the reeling train swung around Trembleau 
Mountain nearly temmiles away, and at intervals ever since 
as the road wound in and out along the shore. Now, as you 
approach, its magnificient proportions come out in grand re- 
lief against the sky. 

" Commandins: " is net Tnisapi^lied here. The hotel stands 



48 




on a height that breaks away abruptly in all directions for a 
space, then in gentler slope reaches the level of the lower 
shores north and south, the water on the east, and the valley 
toward the west where the trains of the D. & H. Hash like 
gleaming shuttle through the vari-tinted web of cultivated 



Hotel Champt.ain. 49 

fields and cross-line country roads. Long colonades; broad 
piazzas conforming to the swelling contour of facing, east, 
south and wesi ; breezy porticos, and balconies hung along 
its sides or perched high up on tower and sharply sloping roof, 
give grace and lightness to the structure that rises above the 
tops of the trees crowning the rugged bluff. Distance gives 
to it the lightness of a castle built of straws, the closer view 
reveals it solid and substantial as the most realistic could 
wish. 

At a moderate elevation it commands in an unbroken 
circuit a panorama that for picturesque variety and beauty is 
equaled perhaps nowhere in the country. Having no near 
mountain heights to dwarf its own strong setting, it looks out 
from its own native wilderness over land and water diversified 
and changeful. It is restful, rather than overpowering with 
great heights and dismal depths. Right and left runs the 
valley with its checker-board of field and woodland; its net- 
work ofroads ; its quaint farm buildings gathered here and 
there in little knots that form hamlets and prosperous villages^ 
and beyond, hills rising into the ranges of the Adirondacks 
that stretch across, pointed at intervals with the grander 
mountain peaks. Towards the east a broad swath has been 
cut out through the green trees down to the water's edge, 
where busy lifj attends as the steamers come and go. Here 
gleam the beach of " The Singing Sands" circling in a broad 
belt toward the south, between the restless water and the thick 
growing cedars. Toward the north are perpendicular cliffs 
that attain quite a height — the bluffs which undoubtedly gave 
to the point its name. They are cleft asunder at one place 
and made memorable by the tradition of the White Squaw 
and the Bloody Hand that left its marks on the walls and 
later as the place where smugglers successfully landed their 
stores free from suspicion because of its seeming inaccessibility 
tp those who were not in the secret. 

Valcour Island lies like a garden below, bordered with its 
varying belt of shrubbery. Beyond stretches the broad lake 
dotted here and there with islands, to the shores of Vermont 



50 



The Adirondacks. 



the Green Mountains beyond rising into the heights of Camel's 
Hump and Mount Mansfield. North and east are Grand Isle 
and the Great Back Bay ; at the north, Cumberland Head, 
the sweeping circle of Plattsburgh Bay, where occurred that 
splendid naval battle of 1814 -the last, as the Battle of Val- 
cour was the f^rst, with the mother country— and nearer, the 
little island where sleep the dead of that eventful day. 

Within the hotel is found everything that appertains to a— 
oh, much, and ill-used term— first class house. Every modern 
appliance tending to the comfort of guests will be found here, 




" D. & H. RAILROAD STATION. 

and that its management will be all which time and experi- 
ence has shown to be the most acceptable to the travelled 
public, may be confidently expected, for that prince of hotel- 
keepers, O. D. Seavey, of Ponce deLeon, St. Augustine, Flori- 
da, is at its head. 

Excursions may be made by steamboat from this pomt 
south to Ticonderoga or north among the islands and on to 
the fishing grounds of the Lake. A fleetof boats, rangmg 
from the light Whitehall skif! to the dainty little steam yacht, 
are here for charter. Drives are many and varied, and equip- 
pages here to suit all occasions. The distance from New 
York is 308 miles ; fare, $8.05. To Montreal, 77 miles; fare 



Plattsburgh. 51 

$2.7 ic Quick and convenient train service will be main- 
tained throughout the season north and south. Trains on the 
Chateaugay Railroad leave in the morning, arriving at Saranac 
Lake and the various hotels reached by the Chateaugay Rail- 
road in time for dinner. 

Crab Island, some distance north of Valcour, is the burial 
place of the common sailors and marines who fell in the battle 
of Plattsburgh. North of this, and projecting well out across 
<:he lake, is Cumberland Head, from which the shore recedes 
toward the north and west, then comes back in a wide sweep, 
embracing the waters of Cumberland Bay. 

The Battle of Plattsburgh took place here in 18 14. 
Stripptd of detail, the account of this decisive battle is as fol- 
lows : On a beautiful Sabbath morning, September i ith, 1814, 
the American land forces under General McComb, and the 
American fleet under Commodore Macdonough, were simul- 
taneously attacked by the British land and water forces, under 
General Sir George Provost and Commodore Downie. The 
engagement resulted in a complete victory for the former, only 
a few small boats of the enemy effecting a successful retreat 
At the commencement of the naval engagement, the British" 
land forces, consisting of 14,000 infantry, advanced against 
the Americans, 3,000 strong, entrenched at points along the 
south bank of the river, but were repulsed with a loss of 2,500 
in killed, wounded and missing. They also lost immense 
stores, which were abandoned in their retreat — which served 
them right for breaking the Sabbath. The ruins of the old 
forts are to be seen on the south outskirts of the village. The 
largest — Fort Moreau — is in the centre. Fort Brown, on the 
bank of the river, and Fort Scott near the lake. This is a 
regular army post now. The barracks, about a mile south of 
the village, near the lake shore, built in 1838, are occupied by 
a company of soldiers belonging to the regular army. 

Plattsburgh is on the west shore of this bay, a thriving 
village of 8,000 inhabitants. It is of considerable commercial 
importance, being on the direct line between New York and 
Montreal, 311 miles from the former and 74 from the latter. 
It is the northern terminus of the Au Sable (Branch) Rail- 



52 The Adirondacks. 

road, and from it the Chateaugay Railroad penetrates the 
mountains toward the west. Plattsburgh is thoroughly cosmo 
poHtan, with an opinion to offer on every question of the day, 
exerting no mean influence through its wide-awake news- 
papers, the Daily Telegram^ and the Sentinel 3iXid Republican — 
i*he latter instituted in 1811, and notwithstand its age, one of 
the most reliable and ably conducted democratic weeklies in 
the state. 

The first settler in this region was Count Charles de Freden- 
burgh, a captain in the English army. The warrant conveying 
the land to him bore date June 11, 1769. The property re- 
verting to the state after^the Revolution, was granted, in 1784, 
to Zephaniah Piatt and others, and incorporated into the town 
of Plattsburgh, April 4, 1785. A company was then organ- 
ized which, in June of the same year, erected a mill at Freden- 
burgh Falls. The estimate of expense contained, among 
other items, the following : " For bread, $65 ; for rum $80." 
They used a great deal of bread in those days. In the year 
1800 Plattsburgh possessed a population of less than 300. 
IVithin the county limits were owned at this time 58 slaves. 

The Fouquet House is at the depot, and affords a con- 
venient stopping place for parties arriving late or desiring to 
take an early train out. 

The Witherill House is near the post-office. It is ele- 
gant in its appointments, its pictures and decorations display- 
ing a high degree of artistic taste. 

The Cumberland stands at the corner of Trinity Square. 
It has been remodeled and largely refurnished and is under 
a new management, celebrated north and south in recent 
years, that of Charles F. Beck, late proprietor of the Florida 
House, St. Augustine, Florida, and of Hotel Windsor, Rouse's 
Point. Mr. Beck is liberal, popular, and noted specially 
for the excellence or his table. A free 'bus runs to and from 
all boats and trains, and ample time is given parties arriving 
on the sleeper from the south to get breakfast before starting 



Plattsburgh. 53 

up the Chateaugay Railroad for the interior. Rates, $2 per 
day ; $ i o to $ i 2 per week. 

There is also an excellent restaurant in the depot, under 
railroad management. Here a good lunch can be had at a 
moderate price, or a comfortable meal during the twenty 
minutes usually given for that purpose between the arrival and 
departure of trains. 

In a private letter to the author, that enthusiastic sports- 
man, Dr. George F. Bixby, editor of the Plattsburgh jRtrpulf/tcan 
says : *' In the universal rush for the woods and waters of 
the Adirondacks, Lake Champlain has been shamefully over- 
looked ; here are islands which now appear in all their 
original beauty as when Champlain first saw them, the abode 
of eagles, so secluded are they, and here is better fishing, all 
the year round, than any other body of water in Northern 
New York can boast of; big hungry fish, voracious pike, 
huge black bass, as well as the nmscallonge — that nearly 
extinct fish — the noblest and gamiest that swims, ready for 
the fisherman at all seasons. In their season, water fowl 
abound — enormous black ducks and wild geese, with smaller 
game in abundance. Lake Champlain is also, of late, attract- 
ing the attention of canoeists, yachtsmen (both steam and 
sail) and camping parties, on account of facility of access 
from the Hudson and St. Lawrence for all kinds of craft; 
hospitality of inhabitants ; pure air ; pure water ; delightful 
scenery, eligible camping grounds and abundant bases of sup- 
plies, all offering irresistible attraction to those unable to en- 
dure the fatigue incident to a lodge in the vast wilderness, or 
that other class who are ' constitutionally tired,' and to whom 
distance lends enchantment to the view of Adirondack peaks. 
To such I offer a word of advice — halt near the north end of 
the lake, in some of the comfortable homes, whose doors will 
be thrown open for a moderate consideration, or encamp be- 
neath the friendly shade of some island grove, where the 
punkies cease from troubling and the weary are at rest." 



£/• The Adirondacks. 

Rouse's Point, according to the United States Coast 
Survey, is 107 miles north of Whitehall. It is the most 
important port of entry on the frontier. Five railroads centre 
here, viz ; The D. & H., leading to New York, the O. & L 
C, to Ogdensburg and the Thousand Islands, the G. T. 
to Montreal, the P. & O. to the White Mountains, and the C. 
V. to Boston and the southeast. There is a very satisfactory 
hotel at the D. & H. station, and another, Hotel Windsor 
on the lake shore south of the village. 

Fort Montgomery, a little way north of the long bridge, k 

an interesting ruin belonging to the United States. About a 

mile north of this a belt of woodland marks the boundary line 

between the United States and Canada. 

******* 

The O. & L. C. railroad runs west from Rouse's Point to 
Ogdensburgh from which place the Thousand Islands can be 
reached by boat or rail. For a portion of the way this road 
runs through wild land and from it several important gate- 
ways enter the Adirondacks. 

Chateaugay is 45 miles west of Rouse's Point, a somewhat 
thriving country village of about 700 popula- 
tion with two hotels, stores, etc. Chateaugay 
Chasm, i J miles north of the station, rivals 
Au Sable Chasm in many respects, and de- 
serves to take rank among the wonders of the 
Adirondack region. It is about a half mile 
in extent, walled in by perpendicular cliffs, through which the 
river runs, descending in its first leap a distance of 50 feet ; 
thence by numerous broken steps, throughout its entire 
length. It is rendered accessible to the public by means of 
stairways, galleries, etc. The Chasm House stands at the 
entrance. It is much resorted to by local picnic parties and 
by wonder-seekers from a distance. 

Chateaugay Lake (Lower) outlet is 8 miles south of the 
station. Stage daily. The lake is about 2 J miles long and is 
connected with the Upper Lake by a navigable stream about 





VIKWS ON 



THE NEV YORK ANt ZANAVn aAILKOAt 




5^ The Adirondacks. 

the same length. A steamer runs at intervals througn the 
two lakes, and a road along the east shore affords means of 
transit. The hotels of the Upper Lake are " Merrill's," 
" Relph's " and " Indian Point House". See page 59. 

Malone, the county seat of Franklin, is 57 miles from 
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Rouses Point and 61 from Ogdensburgh. It 
t^jjC''' , ] is a flourishing village, and one of the im- 
portant towns of the state. "Hotel Flana- 
gan " is the leading house. Rates, $2.00 to 
$3.00 per day. W. R. & S. J. Flanagan, 
Proprietors. Lake Titus, 8 miles south, 
may be reached by special conveyance. 
This pretty sheet is about 2 miles long, and a quarter that in 
width. Limited accommodations may be found at the out- 
let. The Mountain View House is at the State Dam, on the 
Salmon River, 13 miles from Malone. Accommodations are 
here for about 30 guests, R. G. Low, proprietor. Post-office 
Malone, N. Y. Rates, $10 to 15 per week, $2.50 per day.' 
Indian Lake is one-third of a mile north, and outlets into the 
river above the State Dam. From it a trail leads north to the 
road running east to Ragged Lake (^ miles long, including 
the "Figure Eight"). The two are connected by a short 
stream and one-third mile carry. The name of each is de- 
scriptive enough. Ingraham Pond is about 4 miles west of 
the head of Ragged Lake. Across from the shore opposite the 
Ragged Lake House, a trail leads east i mile to Mountain 
Pond ; thence northeast 4 miles to the outlet of Chateaugay 
Lake. Mecham Lake House is 25 miles from Malone, and 
T2 miles from Paul Smith's Station. Will accommodate 75. 
Rates, $10 to $17.50 per week; $2 to $3 per day. A. J,' 
Fuller, proprietor. Meacham Lake is about 2I miles long. 
Its outlet is the east branch of the St. Regis River. 

The Northern Adirondack Railroad extends from 
Moira, 70 miles west of Rouses Point, south to Tupper Lake 
Station, a distance of 56^ miles. The Blue Mountain House 
(P. O. Santa Clara), near Blue Mountain of the.North, is four 
miles southwest of Spring Cove (daily stage 75 cents), will ac 




Northern Adirondack R. R. x^j 

commodate 50. Board $1.50 per day; $6 to $9 per week. 

H. Phelps, proprietor. 

Stages are taken at Paul Smith 

Station for St. Regis Lake (see page 

60); at Saranac Inn Station for 

Saranac Inn, 8 miles distant (see 

page 106); at Childwood Station 

for Childwood Park House, 7 miles 

(see page 108), and at TupperLake 

Station for Wawbeek Lodge, 8 

miles (see page 105.) Steamboat 

runs from Tupper Lake Station to 

the hotels on Tupper Lake (page 

109). During the summer, a _ 

through train service is maintained from New York via the N. 
Y. C. and R. W. & O. Railroads. 

***** 
The Chateaugav Railroad extends from *Plattsburgh to 
Saranac Lake, a distance of 73 „i,es. The first section was 
bmlt by the State to reach Chnton Prison, at Dannemora .7 
mUes rom Plattsburgh. I„ r88o, it was extended to iyZ 
Mountam, x7 m.les further, but the influx of Adirondack 
tounsts was mcreas.ng, and the road, that chmbed an altitude 
of 2,000 feet to Lyon Mountain, must go farther into the 
wi derness. So :t was extended ,0 Loon Lake. In r888 .0 
m.les more were added, bringing it to Saranac Like 
d,stnbu ,ng Its passengers by various stage routes tha 
branch from it to a score or more of summer hotels By i 
ounsts reach Chazy, Chateaugay, Loon, Rainbow, St Regi 

vt •. "'h^; ^r^' '^^^"^-^ L^"^"' ^^y Brook, Lak^ 
r dtd" H w ^'''' "^"^"^'"^ ^^^" '"'° Cascade Lakes 
Central Station, New York, daily the year round, for Platts- 
t±tl P"""^^" "^ Siven time for breakfast before 
erlcan Te r "T. """""^ '""^ Pleasure season, passen- 
wkh tr. T f ^'"''"' ^'""°" ?-3o P. M., connecting 
with trams leavmg Plattsburgh 7:30 a m., and reach the vari 



58 



The Adirondacks. 




ous resoics in time for 
dinner. Passengers 
can leave New York 
at 6 p. M. by Hudson 
River night boats and 
by the Adirondack 
special from Albany 
or Troy, reach Platts- 
burgh at 12:20 and 
Saranac Lake 4:30 p. 
M. the following day. 
This enables passengers to take the stage ride from the rail- 
road to the various hotels in the cool of the day. Drawing- 
room cars are run on all trains. Sleeping and drawing-room 
car accommodations can be secured in advance at any of the 
stations. A Sunday train each way will run during July anci 
August. 

Leaving Plattsburgh, the road runs south for a short dis 
tance, out past the U. S. Barracks ; then swings around tO' 
ward the west, and crossing the Saranac River 10 miles fron' 
Plattsburgh, climbs diagonally up out of the valley. 

Dannemora is 17 miles from, and 1,300 feet above, Platts 
burgh. Clinton Prison is situated here, and affords a quiet 
home for a number of people of leisure, who pass their time 
in meditation, making clothing, and other congenial pursuits. 

From Dannemora, the road swings westerly, around the 
south side of Johnson Mountain, and north, near the west 
shore of Chazy Lake ; then, west and southerly to the mines ; 
running 17 miles to reach a point nine miles distant in a 
straight line. 

Chazy Lake is nearly four miles long and a mile wide. 
Chazy Lake House has an advertised capacity for 50 to 60 
guests. Rates $2.50 per day ; $12.00 to $16.00 per week. 
Open, May to October 15. This house stands near the north 
end of the lake, and may be reached by boat from Chazy Sta- 
tion. Fare 50 cents. 



Chateaugay Lake. 



59 



^ Lyon Mountain is the centre of extensive mining opera- 
tions of the Chateaugay Ore and Iron Company, and exists at 
the pleasure of that corporation. In 1878 it contained only a 
few scattered houses ; it now has a hotel, stores, and churches, 
with about 3,000 inhabitants, and is in a thriving condition. 
The houses are mostly of logs and of uniform size. A day 
can be spent here profitably inspecting the mines and miners 
at work, the crushers, separators, etc. It is peculiarly a mining 
town in appearance ; lacking however the usual accompaniment 
of gambler and rumseller, for people of that ilk are not tolerated 
here. The attention of all good people, who believe evil 
should be licensed, " because prohibition can never prohibit 
you know," is respectfully called to this spot. 

Upper Chateaugay Lake is about four miles in length and 
one broad. It empties at the north, through a winding stream, 
into the Lower Lake, which is somewhat 
smaller than the upper. It is picturesque 
with its surrounding mountains and rug- 
ged shores. It is reached by stage from 
Lyon Mountain, 4 miles, and from 
Chateaugay Station on the O. & L. C. 
R. R. by a 7 mile stage ride and by con- 
necting boat through the lower lake and 
narrov/s. It has a number of summer hotels and cottage 
camps on its shores. 

The smaller game birds and water fowl are here in their 
season, squirrels and foxes abound, and deer and bear are not 
uncommon additions to the list of the killed. 

A small steamboat runs through the lower and upper lakes 
and landing at all camps and hotels. Fare 50 cents. An 
excursion down the winding stream that connects the two 
lakes brings to view at intervals a section of country that has 
been long settled. 

Ralph's, on the east shore 3J miles from I,yon Mountain 
(stage fare 50 cents), has capacity for about 100 guests. The 




6o The Adirondacks. 

house is specially attractive because of its air of neat- 
ness that extends from office to kitchen the beds are of 
the best and the table equaled by few of the most famous. 
There is a telegraph office in the hotel and two mails daily. 
The New York morning papers arrive early the day after 
publication. It is one of the places where you realize that 
there is consideration for you not limited by the length of 
your purse or influence — one of the places where with a de- 
gree of comfort not often met with you are surrounded by a 
primitive environment that goes to make the ideal summer's 
outing. The proprietor is thorough and efficient. During the 
season he may be found here — a genial boniface always at his 
post. When winter comes he is off with the birds to Florida, 
where, in the Cocoanut Grove House at Palm Beach, he wel- 
comes his patrons from the north in a like cheery and accepta" 
ble manner. Open from June 15th to October. Rates, 
$3.00 per day ; $14.00 to $17.50 per week. J. W. Hutton, 
Proprietor. Here will be found tennis, billiards and bowling, 
for lovers of such amusements, boats, guides and camp sup- 
plies for the sportsman and fisherman. 

The Merrill House is near the outlet, with accommoda- 
tions for about fifty. Rates $10.00 to $14.00 per week, with 
a discount for small children. Post-office (" Merrills," N. Y.) 
and telegraph office in the house. Oliver Young, proprietor. 
The house stands on rising ground about 60 feet back from 
the water's edge. Stages meet all trains at Lyon Mountain. 
Fare 50 cents. 

The Banner House at the foot of the lower lake will provide 
for sportsman or tourist, at $2.00 per day; $10 to $14 per 
week. Open from June ist to September 15. Capacity for 
75 guests. Bennett & Kirby, proprietors, Post-office address, 
Chateaugay Lake. A fishing lodge on the Upper Lake, under 
the same management, is open to guests of the house. 



Chateaugay Lake. 6i 

The Indian Point House is on the west side of the lake 
near the south end; capacity about 40 guests. Rates, $1.50 
per day, $8 to $10 per week. Post-office address, *' Merrill's^ 
N. Y." R. M. Shutts, proprietor. The accommodations are 
in a group of buildings that have grown to meet the increasing 
demand of visitors, and the equipment consists of some of the 
best beds made, and furniture comfortable enough to fill all 
reasonable desires. It is strictly a temperance house, no liquor 
being sold on the premises. Steamboats run regularly to 
connect with the stage at Ralph's and through to the Lower 
Lake to connect with stage for the O. & L. C. Railroad. 
Fare to railroad, $1. Mr. Shutts is a veteran hunter and fish- 
erman, and his house is admirably located for lovers of wild- 
woods sports. Some of the best fishing grounds of the lake 
are close by the house. At the back is a dense forest that 
reaches out into the wild section, through which trails run to 
smaller sheets of water that are little known except to the local 
hunter and fisherman. All requisites for sport are supplied 
when wanted. 

The railroad swings around the west side of Lyon Moun- 
tain affording a beautiful and extended view of Chateaugay 
Lake at one point where the woods have been cut away for 
that purpose. Then come forge and coal-kilns, and beyond, 
winding west and south, the road penetrates a wild and inter- 
esting section, hJretofore almost an unknown wilderness, until 
Loon Lake is reached. Loon Lake extends south from the 
station, and is about two and a half miles long, with high 
banks and irregular shores. 

The Loon Lake House stands on the high ridge which, 
like the rim of some wide-mouthed volcano, holds the lake 
within its circling walls at its south end, while beyond, the 
land drops rapidly down into the deep valley of the Saranac. 
The house is roomy, well furnished, and, together with the cot- 
tages, has capacity for about 300 guests. Price for board, 



^2-A The Adirondacks. 

$4 per day, $17.50 and upwards per week. Ferd. W. Chase, 
proprietor. Post office, Loon Lake. Stages meet all trains 
at Loon Lake Station ; fare 50 cents. 

Continuing south the road skirts the western shore of Loon 
Lake, swings around the east side of Round Pond, and wind- 
ing in and out between other small ponds and among low sand 
dunes that are scantily covered with tufted grass, reaches Rain- 
bow Station, 61 miles from Plattsburgh. 

The Rainbow House is three miles west of Rainbow Sta- 
tion. Fifty guests can be accommodated here. Board $2.50 
per day; $10.00 to $15.00 per week. J. M. Wardner, pro- 
prietor. Post office, Rainbow, N. Y. Open all the year. 

This house has more than the usual number of attractions 
for the hunter or fisherman, as might be expected where the 
proprietor himself is an ardent lover of sport and combines 
with hearty good-fellowship a knowledge of the habits and 
haunts of wild game possessed by but few. He is also cor- 
dially seconded in all his undertakings by an efficient help- 
meet, who counts among her accomplishments that of a taxi- 
dermist and gives practical evidence of her work by filling 
every corner of the house with native specimens of the art. 
The house is finished in a most substantial manner with native 
woods, and arranged to be warmed comfortably throughout in 
case of a sudden lowering of the temperature, such as may 
be expected here by the early fishermen or the hunter who 
tarries for late shooting. This is noted fishing ground and 
claims the proud distinction of yielding the largest lake trout 
on record, one having a weight of 52 pounds. Numerous 
small ponds in this vicinity yield excellent fishing while Rain- 
bow Lake, and Wardner Pond (which comes close up to the 
house) with adjacent waters, have been stocked with trout fry, 
affording rare sport and sometimes astonishing results, to even 
the unpracticed fisherman. Telegraph office and post office 
are in the house. The large farm connected with the house 
insures a supply of farm products, fresh and healthful. The 
main line of the A. & St. L. Railroad runs near by and a 
station will be established within 30 rods of the house. Until 



The Adirondacks. 62-B 

the opening of this road conveyances will run regularly to 
Rainbow Station on the Chateaugay R. R., connecting with all 
trains. Fare 75 cents. For special conveyance to or from 
trains, advise by mail or telegraph. 

Bloomingdale (station) is 66 miles from Plattsburgh. Here 
stages are taken for Bloomingdale and Paul Smith's. 

The Crystal Spring House, just outside the hamlet of 
Bloomingdale, is one and a half miles east. Stage fare 25 
cents. Capacity for 30 guests. Jos. Markart, proprietor. 
Rates $2. 00 per day; $10.00 to $14.00 per week. 

St. Regis Lake House, familiarly known as Paul Smith's, 
stands among the pines on the shore of Lower St. Regis Lake, 
seven miles west of Bloomingdale Station. Paul Smith came 
here in 1861 and built a small house for the accommodation of 
sportsmen. It soon became a favorite fishing and hunting re- 
sort and grew rapidly in bulk and popularity. It is still much 
visited for sport and leads as a fashionable resort. It has a 
stated capacity for 400 guests. Rates $4.00 to $5.00 per day ; 
$17.50 to $35.00 per week. Open June i to October. A. A. 
Smith, proprietor. Post-ofiice " Paul Smith's," This point 
is reached from Bloomingdale Station, (7 miles ; stage fare 
$1.00), and from Paul Smith's Station on the Northern Adiron- 
dack railroad (7 miles by stage, $1.00) over which until the 
opening of the A. & St. L. R. R., cars will be run to and from 
Grand Central Station and New York without change. For 
descriptive and excursion book of the section covered by this 
route, address John Hurd, Moira, N. Y. The station on the 
new A. &. St. L. R. R. (to be known also as Paul Smith's 
Station), is four miles distant. Stage fare 75 cents. For 
private conveyance advise by mail. 

Lower St. Regis Lake is about two miles long by one 
broad, and discharges west through the middle branch of the 
St. Regis River. It is about 1,600 feet above tide. The only 
elevation of note in this section is St. Regis Mountain, 1,265 
feet above the lake. From its summit a beautiful view of the 
lake districts is obtainable. 



Wilmington, 

The Au Sable Branch R. R. extends from Plattsburgh, 
fo miles, in a southwesterly direction, to Au Sable Station. 

A stage runs daily from Au Sable Forks, 63 miles above 
Au Sable Station, to Keen Valley, 20 miles south, 7>ia Lower 
and Upper Jay, 

When, in '73, the Professor and I made our first visit to 
this section, there were no palace cars to set us down in the 
midst of the lake country, nor even a coach to carry us to th-e 
interior, but instead we journeyed in a chartered rig, from Au 
Sable Chasm to Wilmington and beyond. If you will come 
with us on that trip we will show you a section delightfully 
wild and picturesque, as yet only partially developed and not 
appreciated at half its true worth — a section remarkable for 
striking features, even in a country whose untiring charm is 
its variety; its strong contrasts, and its rapid changes. 

Following the route shown in gateway No. 2, we were in 
due time deposited on the steps of the old Whiteface Moun- 
tain House at Wilmington, where we were confronted by a 
big, square-looking fellow, with pants in boots and signs of fun 
in his clear, blue eye. We enquired if he was landlord. 

With a quizzical look down at his working-clothes, he re- 
plied: "Well, I don't know. It's been so long since we had 
company, that it don't pay to keep a landlord ; but you'd better 
come in." So we entered, and were soon as comfortable and 
contented as a good supper and a roaring fire could make us. 

Wilmington gives marked evidence of former prosperity, 
and, at some past time, was a centre of considerable import- 
ance. Now it is a little hamlet, combining the old and the 
new picturesquely enough, prettily located on the west branch 
of the Au Sable River, where it flows along under the east base 
of Whiteface Mountain. 




SUMMIT OF WHITEFACE MOUNTAIN. 



CHAPTER V. 



OLD WHITE7ACK. 

LTT off from its kindred on the south by 
Wilmington Notch, and on the north by 
one almost as deep, pyramidal in form, 
although somewhat the longest north and 
south, its base clothed in inky spruce and 
balsams, its naked granite head among the 
clouds " Old Whiteface " stands one of 
the finest mountain peaks in the Adiron- 
dacks. 

" I'll tell you what I'll do," said our warm- 
hearted landlord at night as we sat discuss- 
ing pro and con the ascent of "Old White- 
face," " if you will stay over I will take you 
two miles up the mountain — as far as we can conveniently 
set with a wagon — and send a guide to the top with you, lor 




Old Whiteface. 65 

tt'8 the grandest mountain view to be had in the Adirondack*, 
and I don't want you to go away without seeing it." Oi 
course we accepted, only insisting that he go with us. So at 
nine in the morning, with the thermometer at 48, we set out 
up the mountains ; we left the wagon which returned to the 
hotel, with instructions to meet us at sunset, and proceeded 
up the bridle path toward the summit, traveling about a mile 
westerly then turning toward the south, entered the standing 
timber and began the ascent in earnest. 

At the end of a half hour we had gone another mile and came 
out on an open space called "Lookout Point," half way to 
the summit Here the blueberries grew thick, and we scraped 
whole handfuls from the bushes and ate them — in ten minutes 
gathering all we cared for. Then we resumed our course and 
pressed upward through the dark woods, scrambling up the 
steep path where great rocks alternated with pools of black 
muck in a semi-liquid state, trodden and mixed by horses' feet, 
and we wondered that horses could climb such places with a 
hundred and fifty to two hundred pounds of humanity on their 
back ; but Baldwin said to his knowledge not an accident 
further than being lost for a night, ever happened on the 
mountain. We reached the shanty, three-fourths ol a mile 
from the summit, a little past noon, and here occurred a des- 
oerate encounter between three men on the one side and six 
slices of bread and butter, supported by other fixtures, on the 
other, which resulted in their total defeat and destruction. 

The shanty is in a small clearing, at the highest point where 
wood and water can be obtained, has log sides, with a rool. 
part canvass, part bark. Within is a parlor and cook stove ; 
along one side, raised a little above the floor, a platform that 
looked as though it might do service as Brigham Young's 
family bedstead, was covered with spruce and hemlock 
branches, and blankets. A sort of cross between a stairway 
and ladder led up to the ladies' dormitory under the sharp 
roof, through which the stars could peep in places. Here, in 
the bed which was over nearly the entire floor, " permiscus 
like," we could discover signs of the tender feeling with which 
Ihe lair sex was regarded — in the springy moss and fine leaves 
vhich had been stripped from the hemlock branches, on which 



The Adirondackb. 

the lords ot creation slept down below. The pipe from the 
■tove in the lower room, where a fire can be kept roaring all 
night, passed up through this one, and altogether it was a 
cosy, jolly, fun-provoking place to be in, where, as our guide 
remarked, " if there was any fun in a fellow it was going to 
show itself." We, in imitation of others before us who had 
written their names in every conceivable and reachable place 
in the building, registered and proceeded on our way to th» 
summit. 




•• Pretty rough work," said Baldwin, " but hundreds of people 
come up every year and ride clear to the top. A big doctor 
came here from Buffalo with his family and a four-horse team 
that he had been all over the country with — a very valuable 
team, too, — and when he said he was going to the top of the 
mountain witL them I tried to stop him, and I offered to get 
horses that were accustomed to the road for nothing, rather 
than have him hurt his, but no; 'other horses have been 
there, have they not ? ' said he, and when I told him yes, he 
said, ' then mine can go ; * so he took them out of the 
harness and put his wife, a woman that would weigh two 
hundred, on the firiest one of the lot and started, and I felt 
bad for I knew something would happen, and they rode those 

horses to the very top and just turned around and " . We 

gazed down over the fearful precipice at our feet while oui 
hearts seemed to cease their motion as he slowly concluded — 
' and rode down again without getting a scratch I " 



Old Whitefacb. <J7 

"But how can ladies manage to keep on the horses* backs, 
orhere it seems almost impossible for the horse to get along 
alone?" 

** Manage!*' said he, "like a man, of course, astride, and it 
makes me laugh to see them sometimes when they find that 
they've got to go in that way. So modest when they start, 
some of them, that they are dreadfully afraid of showing their 
feet, but they soon get over that and come down with colors 
flying. I don't know as they would ever have done it if 
Mrs. Murray, wife of the Rev. Adirondack Murray, hadn't set 
the fashion herself. She's a dashing, independent sort of 
woman, who don't let thoughts of what people may say inter- 
fere with her plans. Well, after Mrs. Murray set the example, 
we had no difficulty, and now lots of them go up in that way; 
as, with the horses we have and a guide at their sides, there 
is not the slightest danger in making the ascent." The regu- 
lar price for a horse and guide is six dollars, or four dollars for 
the horse alone ; but unless a lady is perfectly at home in the 
saddle, she will be apt to wish she was "at home " in reality. 
It is needless to add that the Turkish costume is considered 
the most appropriate for this style of amusement. 

All the way up we had noticed fresh tracks maae by three 
several persons — one, a man's, which also appeared to have 
descended, and two evidently made by ladies — one short and 
thick, the other slender and dainty in its manner of touching 
the ground. It had been a matter of wonderment to us, and 
" Little Foot-prints," as we styled the owner of the dainty 
stepping foot, was a constantly recurring subject of specula- 
tion. "Where is Little Foot-prints? who is she? is she 
pretty? — of course. And the other — why are they appar- 
ently alone, when the Big Foot has gone back ? " questions 
that we hoped soon to solve ; questions that preyed upon the 
Professor, as the oft-twirled moustache and passage of his 
fingers through his auburn locks would seem to indicate. Of 
course it was nothing to me, and only out of mere curiosity 
that I managed to reach the top first, but " where was Little 
Foot-prints ? " Not there, certainly, for the summit, the sides 
and the backbone of the mountain up over which we had 
passed were primeval, unyielding rock They had not re- 



The Adirondacks. 

turned by the path ; they might have plunged down the sides 
in some other direction, but the feeHng took possession of us 
that our "Little Foot-pnnts " had taken wings and flown up 
among the angels, just a little higher than where we stood. 

How can I describe it — the wonderful beauty of the day, 
the clear, crisp atmosphere surrounding us — the great pur- 
ple-rimmed basin, in the center of which, lifted up on a pin- 
nacle, we stood, while the mighty, sweeping dome of heaven 
came down all around and blended with the mountain edges. 
A keen, wintry blast sweeping past, penetrating even through 
the heavy blankets that we had brought from the house below ; 
the bits of ground frozen nearly as hard as the rock on which 
they rested ; every stunted bush and blade of coarse grass 
which clung to the wind-swept summit gleaming with frost 
needles and sparkling like spun glass in the bright sunshine 
while below, the country lay spread out in the glory of its 
autumnal dress, its gold and crimson, brown and green, its 
pearly lakes and threads of silver, its purple hills and mellow 
distance, over which lay a mantle of tender blue haze, seen 
only in autumn — not smoke — but something that suggests 
^he thought of the myriad millions of pale, sweet ghosts ot 
falling leaves and dying flowers. Back toward the north ran 
the sharp ridge up which we had toiled, naked and dark for a 
quarter of a mile, then a stunted growth of balsams gnarled 
and twisted ; a few live branches low down at the surface, the 
tops dead and dry ; then, as we look further the spruce and 
cedar grow dark ant* thick down to the belts of birches and 
maples below. Away off to the east is Lake Champlain, lost 
in the mist toward tlie north, shut in by the Green Mountains, 
and beyond, the white hills of old New England. To the 
south lay the great peaks of the Adirondacks. " tlaystack,' 
'* Marcy " — the cloud-piercer of the Indians, '* Colden," with 
the white track of tiie avalanche down its side, and others — 
a long line of giants, their dark blue crests rising like ocean 
billows — grand and changeless in their mighty forms, over- 
whelming in their s'lblimity. 

Away toward the west a lower set ol mountain waves arc 
seen, over a comparatively level tract of country cut and out- 
lined with a confused network of ponds and streams, with 



Old Whiteface. 69 

nere and there a broad, shining sheet of water ; Lake Placid 
at our feet, the Saranacs and Big Tupper's farther away, and a 
host of others, too numerous to mention, while over the pur- 
ple rocky rim of the mountains to the north stretched the 
faint blue of the level Canadas, through which was the silvery 
gleam of the mighty St. Lawrence. 

Turning once more toward the grand Indian pass we see 
the fields of North Elba, and — a mere speck — the home and 
resting DJace of old John Brown. From the pass above, the 
Ausable rises and comes toward us ; here and there we catch 
glimpses of it, a mere thread, through Wilmington Notch, 
under the great wall, through the natural flume at our feet, 
past the little village and away to Keeseville beyond which it 
plunges down over the rocks at Birmingham, and finds its 
way out through the dark chasm to Lake Champlain. 

Seventy years ago an avalanche of loose stones and the 
gathered moss and vegetable deposit of ages went down the 
western slope of this mountain and the exposed surface, 
whiter than the rest, is said to have given it the name ; but 
there is a more reasonable theory, as the line can hardly be 
noticed unless covered with snow, that the old giant's naked 
brow, for so long a period covered with snow, suggested the 
name of " Old Whiteface." On the topmost point, firmly at- 
tached to the rock, we found the card of the chief of the Adi- 
rondack Survey, a metallic disk with this inscription: "White- 
face Mountain, Station No. 2. Verplanck Colvin, S. N. Y. 
Adirondack Survey, 1872." All around, the surface of the 
rock was scarred and chiseled with the names of former visit- 
ors while on one, cut deep and clear, were the words, 

" Thanks be to God for the mountains I " 
and every heart joined with that grand old mountain peak in 
saying, " thanks be to God for the mountams." A great, dark, 
litchen-covered, chaotic mass of broken rock forms the sum- 
mit ; to the north and south the ascent is gradual, but on 
either side it is almost perpendicular for many feet, then curves 
outward and is covered by the dark evergreens. We gazed 
town from the dizzy height, 

»* We heard the troubled flow 
Of the dark olive depths of pines, Feaouncting 
A Uousand feet below." 



70 The Adirondacks. 

We marked our homeward course through the glistening 
lakes, away around the blue serrated summit of Mount Sew- 
ard, then started on our descent. A sudden exclamation from 
our guide brought us to his side, where he was inspecting 
what we took to be the track of a naked foot ' 

"What is it?" 

"A bar — been here since we went up — going down, proba- 
bly, to the blueberry patch. We may see him if we go careful." 

And carefully we went, following the track along out to the 
blueberry patch, and there we lost it We waited, watched 
and ate berries until the shadow of the mountain like a great 
pyramid reached out and touched the little village ; then we 
started. 

"Maybe you'd better lead," said Baldwin, making adesper 
ate effort to keep his feet from getting the advantage of him, 
while an ax, tin pail and sundry other articles jingled and 
thumped about on every side. " It bothers me to have folks 
treading on my heels." So lead we did — the result of which 
may be inferred from a remark he was overheard to make that 
night, to the effect that it beat somethin-or-other how tnem 
fellows came down that mountain, *'and," said he, "when I'd 
get some ways behind I'd drop into a dog trot to catch up, 
then I'd hear that little fellow snicker and the long-legged 
one would over six feet at a step." 



CHAPTER VI. 



'*ON THE ROAD." 

**IohB Brown's body lies a-moulderiag^ in the fimTSi 
And hit soul goes m&rching on." — Old S^ng. 

HE morning following our ascent of uld White 
face, he had draped his shoulders in a mantle 
of mist, modestly hiding his face in the clouds, 
and although the sun came out toward noon 
and the clouds went scurrying across the sky 
like a routed army before the advance of an 
enemy, a legion still hung around his iron 
head, skulked in the rents and hollows of his 
furrowed side and crowded close under the 
lee of his protecting form. It was interesting 
to watch this vast host — this wniie-robed 
army of the sky — seeming almost human in 
it9 maneuverings to gain a place of safety 
from the fierce west winds which tore it into fragments and 
stiung it out into shreds, and rolled it up into great balls to 
be dashed against the mountain, and separating, pass on either 
side to wheel into line beyond, or entering the surface current 
mount up the steep, and shooting out over the sharp crest, 
curl downward into the billowy mass below, where it clung 
like some tattered signal of distress, its ragged, wind-whipped 
end stretching away out toward the east. 

After dinner we took a carriage, sandwitched the driver be- 
tween us, and started for North Elba. Att. Clyne was the 
driver's name, a pleasant young fellow, wbD had rather hear 
or tell a good story than to eat, and that is saying a good deal 
for him . He inaugurated a series by telling of the wonderful 
speed of the particular beast behind which we were riding, 
the tmth oi which he would demonstrate when we arrived at 




72 The Adirondacks. 

a suitable piece ol road. We never came to that suitable 
piece. Once we thought we had, and he encouraged her a 
little with the whip. She felt encouraged for about ten feet, 
and then rested while we got out and strapped a couple ol 
pieces of whiffletree together which we had discovered dang- 
ling at her feet , then we went ahead carefully. About two 
miles south of Wilmington is the natural flume, a long furrow 
through the rock like the track of a giant plowshare, through 
which the water shoots like a flash of light. Some call it a 
wonder ; but, with the fellow at Niagara, we might say " it 
would be a greater wonder if the water didn't come down, it 
comes so easy." Our road still led up along the river, now 
flashing out broad in the sunlight as it rippled over the stones, 
now quiet, and then plunging over the " bigifalls " seeming to 
lose itself in the cavernous depths below. 

Wilmington Pass is the natural gateway to North Elba 
from the north, a notch cut out of the mountain, through 
which the west branch of the Ausable flows, it is one of the 
finest, if not the finest, combination of river, rock and moun- 
tain scenery to be found in the Adirondacks, and was especi^ 
ally beautiful in its autumn dress, as we saw it on that early 
October day. The road ran along up by the river, fringed and 
canopied by the crimson and yellow maples, the great, ragged, 
rough-aimed birches, the cone-shaped balsam, the dainty- 
limbed tamarack and scarlet-berried mountain ash. The pass 
seems to have been caused by some mighty power that turn- 
ing neither to the right nor left, struck this mountain range 
and passed through and onward, carrying every thing before 
it out on the plam beyond, leaving the broken walls on eithei 
side to frown down on the torn rocks below, and, when the 
tempest raged, to thunder back defiance at each other. Then 
time covered the rocks with mosses, the floods brought 
rich offerings and dropped them in the bottom-land, tree? 
sprang up and others found lodgment in the cleft rocks, and 
now all is covered with nature's mantle. No, not all, lor at 
our left, the naked rock rises up, straight up, fully five hun- 
dred feet, at places even projecting beyond its base and seem- 
ing ready to fall as great masses have already tallen, through 
tnd around which the road poes, at times with barely tufllci- 



On the ivOad. 



79 



tux room to pass between them and the narrow, swift-running 
river on the other side. Across the river at our right is a 
narrow fring^e of bottom-land trees, then rising^, precipice 
above precipice, and cliff on cliff, is Old Whiteface, his feet 

washed by the river, his head still among the clouds, and . 

There stands that fast beast out to the full extent of the reins, 
with the pieces of broken whiffletree on either side. 

"Gr — roop!" The sound was richly musical and unmis- 
takably African for " get-up," We were resting, if you please, 
three of us in a buggy, right in the middle of the road, the 
Professor and I rapturously enjoying the lovely scenery and 
innocently talking about subjects entirely foreign to the situ- 
ation, while "Att." sat squeezed in between us, holding on to 
one end of the reins and using some very choice language in 
regard to the mare who stood out at the other, looking around 
occasionally to see why some one didn't make a move to get 
her back where she belonged. 

" Gr-roop ! " Letters cannot express the sound. The 
nearest approach to it is when some sea-sick mortal rushes to 
the vessel's side and vainly attempts to give up his own din- 
ner to the fishes. We got out and tied the traces back to the 
cross-bar, put the broken whiffletree in the wagon and sent 
'•Att." forward to make repairs. 

" Gr-roop ! " whack ! a pan 
of sorry-looking objects ap- 
peared over the brow of a 
little knoll behind us, rising 
slowly as rises the stately 
ship above the watery hori- 
zon, first two pairs of hairj' 
ears, then a pair of venera- 
ble heads swaying from side 
to side, then their entire 
forms loomed above the 
sandy horizon, and we looked 
up through a swaying thicket 
of legs and straps and wooden bar* 



A/v-^v^ 




**GR — ROOP." 



74 The Adirondacks. 

" Camels, bj darn ! " said the Professor excitedly, catching 
sifi^ht of what appeared to be the hump peculiar to the "ship 
Df the desert" 

No, not camels. Professor, but ancient specimens of horse 
architecture; style, gothic, with a tendency toward many 
gables, and that which you think the hump is a French roof 
of buffalo skin to protect them, or the harness, or both, from 
the rain. Framed in nature's noblest mold thAe#> beasts un- 
doubtedly were ; but the party who supplied the flesh wai 
apparently short of material, or else they were clothed in 
their summer suit. Their harness fenced them in and bound 
them round about suggesting suspicion of a latent fire within 
that might, if aroused, burst forth and rend straps of an 
ordinary width, as the lightning shivers the mighty oak.— 
Straps ? they crossed and covered those noble animals until 
they looked like a railroad map of Massachusetts, and at 
every crossing was a big patch of buffalo skin. They looked 
kindly at us, with eyes out of which all coltish frivolity had 
long since flown. Then the expression seemed to change to 
one of mild surprise as the wagon gently pressed against them 
and they found it easier to trot down the hill than to hold 
back. As they forged up alongside they stopped. They had 
evidently been driven by a sewing machine agent or some 
candidate for ofiice, and thought they must stop for every 
man they saw. We instantly propounded the following co- 
nundrum to the driver : 

"Why can't we ride in that extra seat ? " 

He gave it up at once and we got aboard the bucROoaia. 
"Gr-roop ! " whack I we were under way. The driver was a 
good-looking fellow, intelligent, well-informed, and decidedly 
attractive in his way, even if his skin was a few shades darker 
than regulation and his hair unexplorable in its kinkiness. 
We inquired his destination and he told as N<»th Elba. As 
St. Helena suggests the first Napoleon, so Noiln Elba brings 
with it the picture of an old man with white hair and flowing 
^hite beard, crazy some said, but with wonderful method in 
his madness; a carpet-bagger in Kansas where he took an 
active part in the troubles which in 1856 assumed the formid* 
able proportions of a c'vil war; the "Old man of Otawato- 



JOHN Brown. 



inic," whose presence was marked by dissensions and blood- 
•bed ; who urs:ed men on to murder in the name of freedom 

and read his Bible all the 
time • who in 1859, with a 
mere handful of men, 
struck the first hard blow 
at the institution of slavery 
in the South, and which, 
probably, more than the 
eloquence of all the Phil- 
lips and Sumners in the 
world, tended to precipi- 
tate the war by which, 
through rivers ot blood, 
four million slaves went 
free. He was called "a 
visionary," "an old fool," 
but men who have given 
the subject study say that 
it was the best organized 
^ _-p conspiracy that ever failed, 

C7^-a"^ryiy 0/h&U}f\y, reaching out as it did over 

the entire Southern States. 
The blow struck at Harper's Ferry was to be the signal for a 
g^eneral uprising of the blacks, but he misjudged his men 
and — failed. 

A fa">atic he undoubtedly was. He seemed to feel that 
he was specially called not only to free but to educate the 
blacks. He secured a large tract of land here at North 
Elba to demonstrate his theory, and had established quite a 
colony. Then feeling that the time had come, he, with three 
sons, a son-in-law and a few others who had become converted 
to his belief — twenty-two in all — played at Harper's Ferry — 
and lost. They were soon surrounded, and the negroes, to 
whom they trusted so much, let them fight it out alone. One 
son escaped, another was shot dead, and still another lay 
dying by his side, while the old man fought on ; and at last, 
irhen overpowered and compelled to surrender, he locked the 
•ecrets he possessed in his breast that his friends might no I 




'j6 Thb Adirondacks. 

raffer, and died as he had lived, firm in the faith that iw Bome 
manner he was the divinely appointed agent who was to lead 
his children out of the land of bondage. He murmured not 
against the people for whom he suffered, who had deserted 
him ift his direst need, but stopped to kiss a little negro baby 
on his way to the scaffold, seeming to show by the act, how 
willingly he laid down his life for them and the cause he had 
espoused.* 
Then the body of old John Brown, the convicted murderei 

• -this felon with the mark of the hangman's rope on his 
neck — was taken down from the gallows and borne through 
the country whose laws he had transgressed, while bells tolled 
and cities were draped in mourning for his sake, to his old 
home among the mountains — For he had said : *• When I die, 
bury me by the big rock where I love to uil and read the word 
oi God," and there, one terribly cold day in bleak Decembei, 
a f^w who had loved the old man, laid his body and covered 
It up in the frozen ground, 

** And his soul go«8 marohlc4 oo." 

Yes, the spirit of old John Brown goes marching on, and 
with it, keeping time to the musiC of the old song, whole 
armies marched to battle, and with ihe victory came that for 
which the old man worked and died. 

"Gr-roop ! " whack/ Back to the reality of a darkey belab- 
oring a pair of absent-minded and almost absent-bodied 
horses, and they supremely unconscious of the fact. We ven- 
tured to inquire if our driver was one of John Brown's pet 
lambs, and he with, as Mrs. Partington would say, considerable 
"asparagrass," gave us to understand that he was not. 

"He established a colony of blacks up here, didn't he?" 

" Yes, sah, but they ain't heah now. We are the only family 
of colo'd folks in town." 

" Where are they now ? " 

" All gone." " Gr-roop I " whack ! " See dat boss — Gone , 
nobody knows where." 

" How many were there of them ? " 

"Mebbe fifteen or twenty families — don't know, didn't 
think much of 'em.' 

• See Note on page 82. 



"On the Road." yj 

" Slaves, I suppose, that the old man had run in here from 
the South ? " 

" No, sah, not one. G'lang ! " 

*' Where did he get them ? " 

" Oh, from New York, mostly, I guess — not much account- 
Niggers. Gr-roop ! what you 'bout ? " 

" He was generally considered a fanatic, wasn't he ? ' 

" San ? " 

" You thought him a monomaniac ? " 

"A — yes, sah. Ge-/i?«^, thah." 

" You say they are all gone ; what has become of them ? " 

"Don't know; they couldn't make a livin' heah ; too cold 
for 'em ; wa'nt much used to work, I guess, an' couldn't stan' 
the kind they got heah. Most of 'em was barbers an' sich, 
who thought they wouldn't have nothing to do when they 
come heah, an' after the old man died they couldn't get along, 
so they dug out, some of 'em, an' some of 'em died, an' one 
ole niggah froze to death." 

" How was that ? " 
. " Well, he went out huntin' one day in winter and got lost 
in the woods. He had a compass with him, but when they 
found him they found where he had sat down on a log and 
picked his compass to pieces, and then sot there till he froze to 
death." 

It is a well-known fact that some unused to the woods will 
become so effectually *' turned around " that they will be cer- 
tain that something is the matter with the compass to make 
it point wrong, and even distrust the sun itself if it happens 
t3 be in a different position from that which they think it 
ought to be. 

" Dem bosses gettin' kinder tired," remarked their master ; 
"'don't get along over this road very fast." 

We accepted the information with polite increduHt>, as is 
becoming in those to whom an unnoticed fact is fiist made 
apparent. 

'* Been on the road a whole week — " 

" Getting from the Forks?" we innocently inquired- 

*• Oh, no, sah ; it's only fifteer* miles to 'Sable Forks. I've 



78 The Adirondacks. 

been carryin' a young lady 'round to sec the country, driytn 

them hosses steady for a week — " 

"Without feeding? Well, now, I don't wonder they — " 

"No, no, sah ; I feed *em reg'lar. only they run out all sum- 
mer an' I haven't got the hard feed in 'em yet. They ain't 
very fat just now, but they's good hosses for all that." 

Then he whipped up lively for two or three rods past a 
hanty, where we saw Att. busily engaged on what he was 
pleased to call a whiflBetree, to take the place of the broken 
one. Then we good-bye to our sable friend and sat 

down by the river-side lo make a sketch of the scene. Feeble 
and unsatisfactory, perhaps, but a shadow, at least a sugges- 
tion, of foaming, sparkling sun-bright water, dancing along 
among the stones ; great, shaggy, yellow birches, golden 
beeches, crimson maples and tangled depths of dark green, 
while through openings in the trees, the gray cliff showed 
giand and strong, appearing even greater than itself through 
the tender blue of the luminous haze that intervened. Then 
we all got in behind the fast horse and continued on our way. 
Up along the river, through a dark, level tract, almost a swamp, 
where the balsams grew thick and the trailing moss hung in 
masses from their branches, out into the open country, where 
we saw pleasant homes, well tilled fields, and the river wind- 
ing smoothly through the fertile meadows of North Elba. 

After a while we came to a place where the houses were a 
little nearer together than anywhere else along the road, so 
we called that North Elba ; but the population is rather thin 
at the best, and the country to a great extent devoted to 
grazing and grass growing. Winter up there seems to be the 
chief season and never disappoints them in coming, and it is 
seldom that a year passes when snow is not seen on the moun- 
tains near by every month excepting August. It is said to be 
very healthy, so much so that the only manner of taking off 
is a habit they have of freezing to death, and when this hap- 
pens, as is often the case in summer, they do not find it nec- 
essary to bury them, but (if Att. is to be believed) simply lay 
them away somewhere exposed to the pure balsamic air and 
in the course of six or seven weeks they moss over. John 
Brown was only covered up as a protection against curiotitT 



North Elba. 



79 



hunters, who have a habit of chopping oft pieces ot fossils 
and the like, and who have broken ofl pieces of his tombstone 
to such an extent that it had to be boxed up to keep enoughs 
for directory purposes. 

Here at North Elba we strike the post-road, running in a 
north-westerly direction from Elizabethtown to the Saranac 
lakes. Turning to the right we proceeded about a mile until 
at the entrance to a lane, which led off toward the south, we 
saw a sign bearing the inscription, " John brown Farm, Re- 
freshments if desired " (at least that is what we made it out to 
be), together with an index finger, which was probably painted 
by some admirer of the old man's to indicate his present home, 
which direction, if followed, would take the traveler several 
degrees higher than we could hope to get in the Adirondacks, 
so we took the middle course — the lane — through a strip oi 
woods, into the open field, and with the dusk of a solemn twi- 
light settling down over us, stood by the great rock that he 
loved so well and by the side of which, at his own requst, he 
was buried. The farm is "shut in on all sides by the thick 

forests which, on the south, stretch 
away in unbroken solitude to Indian 
Pass and the great peaks of the Adi- 
rondacks. It has been purchased by 
jf^ ^ a company at whose head as prime 
mover stands Kate Field, and now 
held as a sort of public park which 
is annually visited by hundreds who, 
from curiosity or reverence for the 
old saint, make pilgrimages to their 
Mecca ot fanaticism. The house and 
outbuildings stand in the open field; 
near by is the " big rock " and grave, 
surrounded by a rough board fence. 
As we entered the inclosure a lit- 
tle girl came out to remove the box 
from the headstone, which it was 
found necessary to cover to pre- 
serve from the destroying hand of 
the relic-hunter. ^Inlockin^ and 




^^' The Adikowdacks. 

removing the box wc saw an old fashioned, time-Bailn«*d, 
granite-like stone, the corners chipped and broken off, and 
^defaced so that in places some of the inscription was entirely 
gone. The upper hall was in the quaint characters of "ye 
olden time," the lower half ot a recent date ; the face bore the 
following inscription : 

** In memory of Capf* John Brow Who Died At Newyork 
Sept' Ye 3 1776 in the 42 year of his Age. 

"John Brown Born May 9 1800 Tvas executed at Charleston, 
Va, Dec, 2. 1859. 

"Oliver Brown Born Mar. 9, 1839, ivas Killed at Harpers 
Ferry Oct. 17. 1859." 

On the back was the following: 

" In memory of Frederick son of John and Dianth Brown, 
Born Dec 21. 1830 and murdered at Osawatomie, Kansas, Aug 
30. 1856 for his adherence to the cause of Freedom." 

" Watson Brown, Born Oct 7, 1835 was wounded at Haroera 
Ferry & died Oct. 19, 1859."* 

The grave was strewn with faded flowers ; a florist's leaden 
cross and crown filled with the same lay on the little mound, 
and under it the body of Old John Brown, alone I of his large 
family not one remaining to watch over him, but in their place 
strangers, who knew less of the old man than we who lived 
far away. His widow, and five children out of his twenty, are 
still living, it is said, scattered over the West, some of them 
in California, some nearer. 

The stone which marks the head of his grave was brought 
from Massachusetts and placed where It now stands, and we 
were told that the " Capin " John Brown, whose name heads 
the list, was his father, in which case (if the Captain was hi» 
father) he must have been born an orphan, as this one died 
something over twenty-three years before young John was 
born. In fact there must be some mistake about it somewhere, 
as even after careful investigation there we could not find out 
that he ever had a father, and wc would respectfully suggest 
tSiat it receive the attention of the geneological authors, who, 
for the paltry sum of a hundred dollars, will Uace any man's 

• Sm note ** B *' on ink* I^ 



•* Business." 8i 

pedigree back in an unbroken line to dukes and earls, 01 
better even for an additional inducement We passed up ovei 
the big rock bearing the inscription, cut in large letters, 
•'John Brown, 1859," and to the house to learn something 
more concerning it. 

" Don't you want to stay all night ? " said the little girl, with 
tn eye to business. 

I glanced at the grave, the cold rock and the dreary, dark- 
ening fields around, and said **No." Then a boy member of 
the family cornered Att, and eloquently held up to him the 
advantages of seeing the " stun " by daylight ; but Att. couldn't 
see it Then the loquacious lady of the house met the Profes- 
sor at the door with the continuation of what the boy and girl 
had started, but the Professor being a modest man threw the 
responsibility on me, and, alas ! all /wanted was information. 

" We can accommodate you if you want to stay," said she, 
bringing the register. 

We said no again, counted, and found that over four hundred 
besides ourselves had registered dunng the summer. 

" Got as good rooms as anybody, and every body who has 
stopped here has been satisfied," continued she insinuatingly. 

"Almost everybody buy these," said the little girl, produc- 
ing a pair of stereographs of the grave and rock ; *' fifty cents 
for the two." 

We meekly produced the plaster and inquired if they owned 
the place. 

" No," said the mother, " we've only been here a little while, 
but take in strangers who want to stay all night and — " 

" This is the house old John Brown used to occupy, isn't it ? " 

" Yes, but we've fitted it up new some since, and now you 
;an't find any better rooms — " 

" What has become of the widow and children ? " 

"I don't know just where, but out West somewhere, I be- 
ieve. We just take care of it and keep folks who—" 

" It seems to be all forests to the south ; is there a cath 
leading from here to the Indian Pass?" 

"Yes, parties often come through it and stop over night or 
get something to eat ; and I don't like to say it myself, but 
they always seem satisfied with our fare. Now — " 



B2 The Adirondacks. 

*' J am gathering information for a book on the Adirondacks, 
which is my reason for asking so many questions. Now i- 
you have any interesting information concerning this locality 
I ^vill be—" 

"Well, now, I think if people knew that we were prepared 
to keep folks and was always prepared to get up meals, with 
game and trout always on hand, they would come more ; and 
it you will just state — " 

"All right ; ^<7^^/ evening, madam." 

" We should like to — folks say they were just as well kept 
dm at a hotel — might just mention trout — game dinners — veni- 
son nearly all the time — barn room — people — haven't — found 
— it — out — much — yet — it's — ^getting purty — dark — hadn't— 
you — better — stay. And as we passed out of hearing the 
thought would come that if the old man could sleep there un 
moved for a term of years, the angel Gabriel would have t-. 
be in pretty good lip to start him at the end of that time. 

NoTB A. — Hon, Orange Ferriss, Commissioner of Claims at Washington, is authority 
for the statement made to him by Senator Pomeroy, of Kansas, that a design was 
formed to liberate John Brown, in pursuance of which 40 determined men met at 
Charleston, previous to the execution, thoroughly organized and with a plan which 
could not have failed, if undertaken under the existing circumstances. The old man 
was notified of the proposed attempt, but the spirit which had actuated him all along 
spoke in his reply : " No ; I am of more use to the cause now dead than living "; and 
he died for the cause when life could have been his for the asking. True to his mem- 
ory is the State which has placed among the honored ones at the national capital the 
statue of the champion of bleeding Kansas — " the old man of Ossawotomie." 

Note B. — The body of Watson Brown was brought here and laid near the tather, 
October 12, 1882, after remaining unburied for nearly twenty-three years. Considered 
by the authorities of Virginia as that of a great criminal, it was given after death to 
the Medical College at Winchester, and there preserved as an anatomical specimen— 
the mother appealing in vain for the privilege of giving it Christian burial. Later, 
when the town was occupied by the Union forces, it was carried off by an Indiana 
surgeon, and kept by him as a curiosity, until in 1882, when he informed the survivors 
of its whereabouts and offered to restore it for more decent interment. From Indiana 
ihe poor buffeted body went to the mother in Ohio, and finally here, accompanied by 
her, the brothers Owen and John, Jr., sister and widow , and was finally laid to rest 
beside the " big rock," where he had played as a boy, while learning strange thaot^-** 
■»f " dutv 




S^f 



CHAPTER VII. 

North Elba — Lake Placid — The St. Regis ANii 
Saranac Regions, 

ORTH ELBA and Lake Placid can be reached 
^^' from West port and Elizabethtown by stage 
daily during the season of summer travel. The 
route leads through a country beautiful in natu- 
ral attractions, passing at the south base of 
Hurricane peak and through the northern por- 
tion of Keene Valley. 

Keene is apretty little mountain -girded ham- 
let, with churches, telegraph and telephone of- 
fices, and a number of stores of a sedate and peaceful char- 
acter. The great mountains are on the east and west, and the 
east branch of the Au Sable River runs north through the 
picturesque lowlands. 

The K eene Centre House furnishes comfortable accom- 
modations to travelers at $2.50 per day; $10 to $15 per week, 
and is open the year round. 

Caicade Lakes, formerly known as Edmond's Ponds, are \y 
six miles west of Keene, and a thousand feet higher; their al- 
titude being 2,038 feet above tide. The road follows up be- 
side the brawling stream that comes through a notch in the 
west mountains, and strikes the main lake at its east end; 
thence follows along, on the north shore, for something over 
a mile, when the west, or upper, lake is reached. Long Pond 
Mountain rises abruptly along the south side, and Pitchofi 
Mountain on the north ; forming a narrow defile, where the 
lake lies like a deep, still river, while the road holds a preca- 
rious footing on the debris that has fallen from the cliffs above. 
Originally one continuous strip of water, it was divided into 



$4 The Adirondacks. 

two, near the western extremity, by a deposit evidently brought 
down by the stream which foams over the precipitous wall on 
the south, in the rainy season ; in time of drouth it is like a 
mere thread of silver hanging down over the dark rocks. 

The Cascade Lake House stands nearly opposite, on the 
only available bit of land found in this part of the notch. It 
was built in 1878. 

Passengers by stage usually stop here for dinner. Price of 
dinner $ I. W. F. & S. H. Weston are owners and proprietors. 
Post-office (Cascadeville) and telegraph office in the house. 
This point is 26 miles from the railroad at Westport, and nine 
miles from Lake Placid. 

West of Cascade Lakes the road climbs up out of the notch, 
and passing through occasional clearings, crosses over to the 
more level land of North Elba. 
^ The Mountain View House is four miles west of the Cas- 
cade Lakes. It commands a view of rare beauty and extent, 
well entitling it to its chosen name. This house is perhaps 
better known as Ames'. It has earned a well-deserved reputa- 
tion for homelike comfort and hospitality ; and in addition to 
considerable transient custom, gets its full quota of those who, 
for sanitary reasons, seek the healing air of this high plain. 
The house will provide for 35 guests. The accommodations 
are good, the fare wholesome and satisfying, and the service 
very pleasant and agreeable. Open from July ist to October 
ist. Board, $8 to $12 per week; $2 per day; 50 cents per 
meal. Telegraph office in the house. P. O., Cascadeville. 
Mrs. M. S. Ames & Son, proprietors. 

From the Mountain View House it is 22 miles to Eliza- 
bethtown, stage fare $2,50. To Lake Placid, 5 miles, 50 
cents. To Saranac Lake, 13 miles, $1.50. 

Toward the south, the slope stretches away down into the 
valley, then rises in long, sweeping lines to the foothills, 
thence to higher ridges and peaks, and finally to the grand 
heights of distant Marcy, the highest mountain in the State^ 
and to Mclntire, but little less in stature, the central 



The Adirondacks. ^^ 

figure in this mountain picture, flanked as it is by Wallface 
on the west guarding the famous Indian Pass, and Mt. Golden 
on the east across the wild notch where repose the waters 
of Avalanch Lake. Throughout all this extent of valley 
and mountain side, the forests are as nature left them, for 
the rugged nature of the country has been a check on the 
lumberman's avarice, and the charcoal burner even has 
stayed his devastating hand. 

Outlined against the broad chest of Mclntire — in reality 
a spur from its side — is a lower summit, Mt. Jo, sometimes 
called the Bear. Between this and the main mountain, 
more than 2,000 feet above tide, rests Clear Lake, a lovely 
sheet of water of about 30 acres in extent, with shores of 
white sand and a border of shrubs and trees remaining in 
all their native beauty. 

Adirondack Lodge stands here on the east shore of the 
lake, almost hidden among the trees save where its high 
tower lifts its head above their tops. This is a new de- 
parture in rustic architecture, and forms one of the most 
unique and picturesque structures in the country ; a resort 
for nature's lovers, where nature's handiwork has been 
respected. It is of logs, 96 feet front, 36 feet deep, and 
three stories high, with a rear wing of almost equal size. 
Forming a part of the building is a substantial tower also of 
logs, rising above the tree tops and affording such a view as 
can be found at no other house in the Adirondacks, for 
with a widely extended vision, not a sign of civilization can 
be discerned. A broad piazza surrounds the lower portion 
of the house, its upper deck reached from the rooms above 
or by rustic outside stairs. Everything about the house or 
grounds evinces the cultivated taste of the owner, for the 
same sentiment that protected hoary tree and graceful shrub 
alike, made cunning joints among the logs, and left their 
rugged bark intact so that every pilaster, balustrade or rail- 
ing is still clothed in the rich brown covering that nature 
gave it. Witliin, the same good taste prevails. The walls 



^Q The Adirondacks. 

are plastered, to be sure, and noise-deadened, but paint and 
Brussels carpeting are tabooed as not in keeping with the 
place, the furniture hard wood, plain and substantial. 
Fireplaces make the principal rooms comfortable on occa- 
sion. An electric annunciator puts sleeping rooms and 
office in communication. The beds are of the best. The 
windows are large single panes of plate glass in swinging 
sash. A well at the door with old-fashioned wheel . and 
bucket furnishes the best tonic to be found here or any- 
where else. A lawn tennis and croquet ground in an 
opening near the lake ; swings and arbors among the trees, 
and boats on the water afford means of quiet amusement. 
There are trails to the summit of neighboring mountains for 
those who favor long tramps, and shorter walks for those less 
robust. To the top of Marcy is 7 J miles. Top of Mclntyre, 4J. 
To Avalanch Lake, 5 miles. To Indian Pass, 6 miles. To 
top of Mt. Jo is a 45 minutes' scramble. A bridle path leads 
through South Meadow to Edmonds Ponds, 8 miles distant. 
It is about 5 miles by road to the main thoroughfare, which 
is touched | of a mile west of Ames'. This road built 
specially for the house presented great difficulties in con- 
struction, which, however, were successfully overcome. 
Through the season a buckboard stage conveys passengers 
and mails to connect at Transfer with Elizabethtown and 
Saranac Lake line. Fare, $1.00, 

Guides, tents and suitable clothing for the purpose may 
be procured here by parties desiring to go into camp. Ca- 
pacity of house and camps, about 100. Board per day, $4 ; 
per week, from $16 upward. Henry Van Hoevenbergh, 
proprietor. P. O. address, Nov' Flha, > . ' . 

The Au Sable River is crossed 2 miles west of Ames*. A 
half mile further, a sign on the left points south toward the 
last resting place of old John Brown, and another mile brings 
us to where the main road is left for Mirror and Placid 
Lakes lying at the north. 



Lake Placid. 87 

Mirror Lake is about one mile long by one-third mile 
in width. Its northern end is separated from Lake Placid by 
only a narrow strip of land. The attractions of Lake Placid 
have led to a phenomenal development, and the prospects are 
that in the near future a considerable village will line its 
shores. The post office is " Lake Placid." 

Mirror Lake Hotel is first as you approach from the 
south. In the fitful struggle for existence during its earlier 
life, it waxed strong and became mighty. Now it is the 
largest hotel at Lake Placid and has been placed on a found- 
ation that will not be shaken by financial storms such as made 
a plaything of it in the past. It is owned by the Lake 
Placid Hotel Co., of which Paul Smith is president and 
Charles E. Martin manager. Paul Smith's reputation as a 
hotel man extends wherever the Adirondack wilderness is 
known. The famous hotel at St. Regis Lake has been 
celebrated for years as the fashionable resort of the 
wilderness. Years ago when in its early prime, and al- 
most the only hotel of note in the wilderness, a boy 
started in its service, and with the inquisitiveness of a 
boy and the determination of a growing man to know every- 
thing to be learned about a great hotel, served faithfully 
until every department was as familiar to him as the A, 
B, C, of his schoolboy days. Eventually a great share in the 
management of the old house fell to his lot until other hands 
came to relieve him, when, after nearly 25 years of faithful 
service, he graduated to take upon himself larger responsibili- 
ties in different fields. This boy is the present manager 
of the Mirror Lake Hotel, and will attract a host of 
friends who remember his uniform courtesy, his genial ways 
and efficient management in the office of the old St. Regis 
House. The Hotel stands at the south end of Mirror 
Lake, commanding a view of the entire lake towards the 
east and north, the picturesque village of Lake Placid 
straggling along its shores, a bit of Lake Placid itself, and 
Whiteface Mountain beyond, while, stretched along the south- 



88 The Adirondacks. 

ern sky is seen the grand panorama of mountain peaks. It is 
a roomy structure, with the necessary comforts of the great 
hotel of the day. It has ample piazzas and public rooms, 
electric light and steam heat. It is furnished richly and com- 
fortably and has spacious halls and sleeping rooms with high 
ceilings. It is capable of thorough ventilation and is under 
the most perfect of sanitary regulations. Within, are billiards 
and bowling ; without, all of the amusements common to out- 
door life are at command. Here grace-giving tennis and the 
more sedate croquet claim each their admirers, while those 
who would row or fish can be provided with all that is neces- 
sary for comfort or pleasure. Riding and driving, staple 
amusements the world over, may be indulged in here, as every 
class of vehicle common to the mountains, with saddle horses, 
are found in the hotel livery. Those who care to look, will 
find pleasant roads and ways that may be varied at will and 
found interesting always. There is a telegraph office in the 
hotel and mails come and go twice a day. Price of board $3 
to $4 per day; $17.50 to $28.00 per week. For particulars 
address the manager, C. E. Martin, at Lake Placid. The 
owners of Mirror Lake Hotel are highly pleased with the re- 
sults of the opening season and will spare no effort or reason- 
able expense to make the enterprise a permanent success. 

Mr. Martin and Mr. A. E. Putnam, with a number of other 
New York gentlemen have acquired title to the greater part 
of Whiteface mountain, and a carriage road will be built 
from Mirror Lake to its summit. The summit of this moun- 
tain unquestionably affords the most interesting and varied 
view of any mountain in the Adirondacks. 

The Grand View House is owned and managed by Henry 
Allen. Mr. Allen is pleasant, agreeable and obliging, and 
wherever he is in the management it will be unconventional 
and popular. This house stands on the summit of the hill 
west of Mirror Lake appropriately enough named the " Grand 
View," for not only does it command the view north, east and 
south, common to other hotels here, but also the quiet of the 



Lake Placid. 



89 



spreading forests towards the west and the mountains that lie 
about far-away Saranac Lake. This house with its annex will 
accommodate 125 guests. It is nicely furnished and its beds 
are of the best class. Some of the rooms — particularly those 
in the annex — are very desirable. Pure spring water is brought 
through pipes into the house. Its commanding position ren- 
ders drainage easy and thorough. It has its own telegraph of- 
fice connected with the regular line, and has livery accommoda- 
tions such as may be found at all good hotels. It is now kept 
open as a winter resort. Large stoves and open fireplaces are 
in the main rooms, double windows have been provided 
and the large piazza enclosed with glass. Rates are $3 per 
day, $14.00 to $17.50 per week. 
2 




THE GREAT PEAKS FROM LAKE PLACID. 
1 Gothic. 2 Saddleback. 3 Basin. 4 Marcy. 5 Golden. 6 Mclntyre, 

7 Indian Pass. 

The Stevens House built in 1886 is on the high land that 
separates Mirror Lake from Lake Placid. J. A. & G. A. 
Stevens, proprietors. 

This is one of the largest and best equipped hotels in the 
Adirondacks, and commands undoubtedly the most comprehen- 
sive view of any. It stands 200 feet above the lake, whose 
surface is 1,863 feet higher than the sea." From this point 
may be counted a score of the great peaks. In the south- 
west is distant Seward; further west is Ampersand; just over 
the water, at the north, is dark McKenzie ; in the north- 
cast, beyond the broad surface of Lake Placid, is the bold 
crest of Old Whiteface. East and south are Pitchoff, Long 
Pond, and Porter ; and, stretching along toward the west, a 
long line of giants, are the Gothics, Basin, Marcy, Golden, 



90 The Adirondacrs. 

Mclntyre, and the mountains west of Indian Pass. Nearer 
are the cleared fields of North Elba, and the old John Brown 
homestead. At our feet are the waters of Mirror Lake, and 
the collection of native and summer cottages constituting the 
hamlet of Lake Placid. 

The house has a front of over 200 feet, is four stories high, 
with piazzas on every side, affording choice of wind or sun, 
and with recent additions affording accommodations for nearly 
400 guests. The parlors and dining-room have each an area 
of about 3,000 square feet. It is lighted by electricity. A 
hydraulic pump forces water to all parts of the house, and, 
with hose attachment, is guard against possible fire. The bed- 
ding, carpets, etc., came from Arnold, Constable & Co. The 
beds are of woven wire, and with hair mattresses. The sani- 
tary conditions are believed to be perfect. Telegraph office in 
the house. 

The Messrs. Stevens are also owners of considerable rea 
estate lying along shore and between Mirror Lake and Lake 
Placid. This property has been laid out in building lots. 
Several cottages stand here, others will be built soon, and, in 
the near future, one may reasonably expect to see this entire 
slope occupied by elegant villas or cozy cottages, as individual 
taste may dictate. This is a very desirable place for a summer 
cottage, being sightly and cool; while its elevated position 
and the nature of the soil places it above any suggestion of 
unwholesome air or conditions. 

Furnished cottages and camps and camp or cottage sites, 
fronting directly on the lake, may also be obtained of the three 
companies who now virtually control the shores of Lake Placid, 
on very reasonable terms by applying to Clarence M. Noble, 
at Lake Placid. 

Stages : A. F. O' Brian's stages run to connect with all trains 
at Saranac Lake, nine miles distant. Fare $1.25. Agnew 
Brother's stages connect with evening trains, north and south^ 
at Westport Distance, 35 miles. Fare, $4. 



Lake Placid. 



91 



The Lake Placid House is at the head of Mirror Lake, 
cast of the Stevens House. Capacity 75. Rates, $3 per 
day, $12 to $15 per week. Open June ist. G. W. Baldwin, 
proprietor. 

" The RCfuissEAUMONT " is a new house, built on high 
ground between Mirror Lake and Lake Placid, commanding 
views of both. It was built and furnished with the idea of 
making it one of the most complete and comfortable hotels in 
the Adirondacks. It offers accomodations for 150 guests. 
Rates $4.00 per day, $17.50 to $40.00 per week with special 
rates for the season. Open from July i to October. It is 
easily accessible from the main road by stage or private 
conveyance. Mr. T. Edmund Krumbholz, last year the 
manager of Hotel Wawbeek on the Upper Saranac, is in 
charge. Post office address, Lake Placid, N. Y. 

Lake Placid is over at the north and, although distant from 
Mirror Lake but a little way, the two are effectually separated 

by the ridge that 
runs between them. 
It is in shape oblong, 
something over four 
miles in length and 
about two broad, 
measuring through 
or between the is- 
lands, of which there 
are three, called re- 
spectively Hawk, 
Moose and Buck. 
Hawk is small, but 
Moose and Buck are large, beautiful 
islands in a line from the first toward 
the southwest, the three dividing the 
sheet into what are locally known as the 
" East " and " West " lakes. 
White Face Inn, formerly the West- 
side Hotel, is near the southern extremity of the lake and 




92 The Adirondacks. 

about 40 feet above its surface. In front, a broad passage 
leads into the East Lake. Through this is seen the striking 
bluff known as the Devil's Pulpit, the mountains around Wil- 
mington Pass, and in the distance, Marcy and other peaks. 
The West Lake, stretching northeast, forms the middle ground 
of a picture of which the distance is the rugged and noble 
contour of Whiteface — a view pronounced by many the 
finest of this famous peak. Behind and on either hand 
is the forest into which run pleasant walks and bridle paths, 
one of the latter extending to the top of Colborn Peak, 
a half mile distant. The house is thret stories, with 
spacious rooms, and wide, double piazzas on the north, south 
and east sides. Mrs. M. S. Elmendorf, who so successfully 
conducted the old Lake Placid House for the past two or 
three seasons, is the manager. It is designed to make this a 
first-class ijiouse in all respects, as it has a backing among in- 
fluentii^ people which makes such a result possible, even if 
the experience of the present manager is not a guarantee that 
whatever is undertaken will be accomplished in the best of 
shape. Capacity of house and cottage 135. Rates for board 
$3.00 per day, $18.00 per week, with special terms for a long 
stay. Address at Lake Placid. 

Camp Pinafore, owned by E. D. Bartlett, is one of the most 
extensive camps of the wilderness and highly artistic. 

Castle Rustico on the west shore opposite Moose Island 
is an immense structure of logs, rough outside and rustic in 
finish. W. F. Leggett, proprietor. It is open for the enter- 
tainment of guests. For rates apply to the proprietor. 

Under-Cliff is on the west shore well up towards the head 
of the lake. The woods here are unbroken save an opening 
among the trees just sufficient to give place for the various 
little buildings and the larger central one made common for all 
guests. Back towards the west stretches the virgin forest 
climbing to the top of Mt. McKenzie. Near by are pleasant 
coves and streams and woodsy paths. Nature made the place 
charming with many desirable features and an environment of 



Lake Placid. 93 

lovely things ; a lover of nature has beautified it and made it 
available. Dr. Charles D. Alton, of Hartford, Connecticut, 
is the magician, and his magic wand has opened up one of the 
charming places of this region. Originally the summer camp 
of a physician who felt the need of occasional rest from pro- 
fessional duties it was often occupied by patients who were 
friends as well, then by others who were not patients, but were 
attracted by the beauties of the place and the geniality of the 
host, until making a virtue of what seemed almost a necessity, 
the camp was thrown open to the public generally, and as 
such became a decided success, with only so much of the sani- 
tarium about it, as must exist where the controlling spirit 
unites an enthusiasm for his profession with a natural love for 
healthful outdoor sports. Under the Doctor's care it grew 
from a single camp to a little village of tents and rustic cot- 
tages, with a larger central building and assembly room, re- 
sembling some of the larger private camps of note in the Adir- 
ondacks. In the words of Dr. Alton, '• The beef, iron and 
wine of nature's laboratory are here ; ozone and electrical 
change without measure," and in addition will be found a very 
satisfactory bill of fare with other things in keeping. Address 
until July i, Hartford, Conn. Through the summer address 
at Lake Placid. 

Chubb River, the outlet of Lake Placid, runs toward the 
southwest, and in circling around toward the east approaches 
quite near to Paradox Pond, and soon after joins with the 
Au Sable to pass through Wilmington Notch. 

The Elba House, on the main road, two miles south of 
Lake Placid, will provide for 18 boarders. Rates $1.50 per 
day; $7.00 to $10.00 per week. Open from June ist to No- 
vember r5th. R. E. Fisher, proprietor. P. O., Newman. 

Ray Brook House, 5 miles west of Lake Placid and 3 
miles from Saranac Lake, will provide for 40 guests. Open 
from June to November. Rates $3.00 per day; $10.00 to 
$17.00 per week. Duncan Cameron, proprietor. The Lake 
Placid stages pass in going and coming, connecting with all 



94 The Adirondacks. 

trains. There is a telegraph office in the house. Post-office, 
Ray Brook. 

The appointments of the house are good and the table of 
like nature. Of special interest is the brook that gives name 
to the house, and the adjacent ponds, belonging to the pro- 
prietor, who has stocked them with trout, and holds them as a 
preserve for the use of himself and guests, affording excellent 
sport at all seasons. Guests given to angling will find a kin- 
dred spirit in the proprietor who is an enthusiast and an ex- 
pert in that line. 

The narrative portions of these pages left us tearing our- 
selves away from the proffered hospitalities of the John Brown 
farm, after which we sought entertainment at Lyon's Hotel. 
The following morning took us to Lake Placid, where we 
nearly succeeded in getting a cold bath, thanks to our belief 
that we knew perfectly well how to manage an Adirondack 
boat, after which, fortified with a dinner, we succeeded in re- 
moving Att. from the presence of a fascinating divinity in 
calico, and started for Saranac Lake. 

Saranac Lake (village) is 73 miles from Plattsburgh. The 
village of then and now differ somewhat. It did not impress 
me favorably at the time, and we went direct to Martin's. 
The place held no visible promise of its future then, but na- 
ture had made it the natural outlet of the great northern lake 
country, and later — in combination with its porous soil, the 
Chateaugay railway, Dr. Trudeau, and Milo B. Miller — it re- 
ceived an impetus that promises to be of the most substantial 
and lasting kind. It is a pretty little town, of about eight 
hundred native inhabitants, lying low in the valley ; busy and 
full of enterprise. Around it are protecting hills, and, farther 
back, mountains. Between the hills run valleys from north, 
east and south, uniting here so that it is approached by level 
roads, winding through the lowlands, from either side. It 
shows a picturesque blending of the primitive forms of old 
times with the swell structures of prosperous later days, since 



Saranac Lake. 95 

it went forth that here was the health centre of the wilderness. 
It has four churches, a graded school, water supply for street 
and dwellings, stores and hotels, and telegraphic and tele- 
phonic communication with the summer hotels of the lake re- 
gion and the outer world. 

This, the terminus of the Chateaugay Railroad, has excel- 
lent summer service. Trains leaving in the morning reach New 
York early in the evening. Afternoon trains connect at Platts- 
burgh with sleeper for New York. The opening of a branch of 
the A. &: St. L. Railroad which is anticipated early in the sea- 
son ^and will be announced in due time, will also give through 
train service to and from New York via. the west side of the 
wilderness. Stages run to and from the various hotels of 
Saranac Lake and Lake Placid on arrival and departure of all 
trains. 

The Adirondack Sanitarium is a practical application of 
the good to be had here. It is situated a mile below the village, 
on a bluff, commanding a grand mountain view toward the 
north and east, and well protected from the prevailing western 
wind. Dr. Alfred L. Loomis, of New York, is examining phy- 
sician. The institution is under the immediate supervision of 
Dr. E. L. Trudeau, assisted by Dr. C. T. Wicker. Appli 
cants must be examined either by Dr. Loomis, in New York, 
or Dr. Trudeau, at Saranac Lake. It is not intended as an 
asylum for hopeless cases ; but to put within reach of sufferers 
from incipient pulmonary complaints, whose means are limited, 
the advantage to be derived from the Adirondack climate, a 
simple, out-of door life, and good hygienic surroundings, with 
suitable medical treatment. It consists of a handsome central 
building, containing dining-room, offices, etc., and outlying 
cottages, accomodating two to four patients each. The 
Sanitarium accomodates about sixty patients. A charge of 
$5.00 per week is made for each. This is below the actual 
cost pro rata^ but the deficiency is made up by annual sub- 
scriptions. Dr. Trudeau's experience has made him a strong 
advocate of the systematic open-air treatment of consumptives 



96 The Adirondacks. 

which is carried out at the institution in most cases. A 
characteristic scene in mid-winter is that of a dozen or more 
patients swathed in wrappers of wool and fur, ranged, sardine- 
like, side by side on the piazza in comfortable steamer chairs, 
chatting or reading, or engaged in such light occupation as 
are possible with thickly gloved fingers ; often remaining out 
in what may be called bad weather even, from nine o'clock in 
the morning until sun-set, except during the interval taken 
for dinner. Others drive, muffled in furs, or where strength 
permits — thickly clad and well protected from the cold — in- 
dulge in long tramps through the woods or over the hills on 
snow shoes. 

The Hotels at the village are good and are supplemented 
by numerous private boarding houses open to meet every 
extraordinary demand. " The Berkley," F. A. Streeter pro- 
prietor, will accomodate 30. Rates, $2 to $3 per day; $12 
to $21 per week. Open all the year. Free bus to all trains. 
'* Linwood Cottage," Frank A. Mantz, manager, is on the main 
street. Capacity 25. Rates, $10 to $15 per week. Open 
all the year. *' Riverside Inn," will accommodate 100. 
Rates, $3 per day; $14 to $«! per week. Open all the year. 
Wallace Murray, proprietor. " Martin's" is on high ground, 
on the road to the lake. The proprietor, William F. Martin, 
was the founder of the famous old Saranac Lake House. He 
is an enthusiastic hunter and obliging withal. Rates, $2.50 
per day; $10 to $15 per week, open May to December. 

Hotel Ampersand and cottages stand at the extreme 
northerly end of Lower Saranac Lake, about ij miles from 
the terminus of the railroad. The hotel was opened November, 
1888. During the spring of 1891 an addition of 82 feet to the 
west wing and 44 feet to the east wing was added, also an 
"Annex" with an exercising room for the accommodation 
of young men. The hotel contains 146 bed-rooms, 68 of 
which have fire places. An elevator makes all floors almost 
equally desirable. The house is heated throughout with steam 
and lighted by gas. Public and private bath-rooms on every 




HOTEL AMPERSAND, OFFICE, 




SARANAC LAKE FROM HOTEL AMPERSAND. 



Saranac Lake. 97 

floor. The main office is a large room with two large fire 
places. It opens on one side into the spacious dining hall, 
smoking room and gentlemen's reading and writing room, 
and on the other into a reception room, ladies' billiard, 
reading and writing rooms and parlor. The piazzas are 
broad, extending along the entire front of the house. 
The hotel is open all the year. The Post-office *' Am- 
persand " and telegraph, telephone and general store are in 
the hotel. Tennis court, base-ball field, walks and drives af- 
ford opportunity for outdoor sports for everyone. 

In choosing a name for the hotel. The Ampersand was 
deemed fitting and appropriate from the vicinage of the 
shapely mountain that looms up in the south beyond the lake, 
at whose base nestles a pretty pond, bearing the same name, 
with its outlet in a little stream that finds its devious way at 
last into Raquette River. The hotel was built by the Sara- 
nac Lake Hotel Company. It is roomy, rambling and ar- 
tistic—full of unsuspected corners and pleasant surprises, 
picturesque in its commanding position on a slight eminence, 
surrounded by pines, hemlocks and balsams, with white 
birches gleaming here and there among their more sombre 
neighbors. The accompanying cuts show glimpses of the 
hotel and a view of the lake. Board $17.50 and upwards per 
week. Transient rates $4.00 per day. For special rates and 
particulars address the Saranac Lake Hotel Company, Am- 
persand, N. Y. 

C. M. Eaton, and his partner, W. G. Young, the managers, 
represent energy and enterprise and a knowledge of the minutia 
of hotel service that ensures good management and smooth 
working throughout. At the beginning, the Ampersand took 
position as a popular favorite. With a generous freedom of 
management not often equalled it has continued so. It is a 
house about which little can be found to criticize. 



98 The Adirondacks. 

The Saranac Lake House is again under the management 
of its owner, Mr. M. B. Miller, who personally conducted the 
enlarged house up to 1890, giving it a position among Adiron- 
dack hotels equaled by few, and making it one of the very 
desirable ones of the north. It is spoken of generally now as 
" Millers " rather than by its proper name. It stands near the 
north end of the lake, about one and a half miles from the 
depot, on the spot formerly occupied by Martin's old house, 
which was first among famous Adirondack resorts, having been 
built in 1859 (resembling, however, but slightly, the house that 
now occupies the ground.) Architecturally it suggests service 
and comfort rather than display, while at the same time offering 
an attractive front and outline. The interior is arranged with 
a view to comfort and convenience ; the public rooms uncon- 
ventional but cozy withall. Large fire-places have been built 
in many of the rooms, and the entire estabHshment furnished 
with necessary conveniences. Many of the sleeping apart- 
ments are large, well lighted and ventilated, and arranged in 
suits of from two to six communicating rooms. The piazza, 
fronting the lake^ affords a pleasant, covered promenade. 
The parlors look out on one of the loveliest of quiet Adiron- 
dack scenes. Across the bay the shore rises abruptly to a 
considerable height. At the left, near by, is a dense grove 
of cedar, balsam and tamarack, with shady walks, sheltered 
nooks and seats, and lovely vistas of wood giving glimpses of 
the water. Beyond is the broad lake with its islands and 
distant mountains. Telegraph, telephone and a branch post 
office is in the hotel. New York morning papers arrive on 
afternoon train. Sunday papers come Monday noon. Parties 
can leave New York at 7.30 p. m. and arrive in time for dinner. 
Returning by morning train reaching New York at 7 P. M. 
This house has a capacity for 250 guests. Rates $3.00 to 
$4.00 per day, $14 to $21 per week. Stages run to meet all 
trains at the station, fare 50 cents. 

A general store connected with the hotel, will supply neces- 
saries for camp or tramp, and some of the luxuries too, and 



99-B The Adirondacks. 

those who may not have provided themselves with proper 
fishing tackle or hunting outfit can find such articles here, or 
at command after due notice at office or store. Further 
particulars can be had by addressing the proprietor at Saranac 
Lake. A very pretty little book giving matters of special in- 
terest and city references will be mailed on application. The 
house is Democratic in tendency, breezy and delightful with 
its changing patronage of many transients as the hunter and 
fisherman come and go. Old patrons will be glad to know 
that H. H, Tousley remains in the office ; efficient, watchful 
and obliging, as ever, winning friends to the house by his uni- 
form courtesy and tact, and contributing much toward the 
comfort of its guests. 

The Algonquin is owned and managed by John Harding, 
a graduate of Paul Smith's famous hostlery, at one time asso- 
ciate manager of Hotel Ampersand. It stands on high 
ground commanding a comprehensive view of the lake, and 
islands and the mountains beyond. It is finely finished in 
natural woods, richly decorated, and furnished luxuriously. 
The sleeping rooms are large above the average ; the beds of 
the best. It has high ceilings and large windows. It has 
open fire-places, affording ventilation, and, on occasion, neces- 
sary heat. It has wide piazzas on three sides, giving 300 feet 
of promenade protected from rain and sun. The grounds are 
extensive, having three-fourths of a mile of lake front, with a 
beautiful sand beach, space for out-door amusements in way of 
tennis court, croquet-, etc., and pleasant walks that penetrate 
the thick woods, affording means of open or covered prome- 
nade as may seem pleasant. Stages connect with all trains; 
fare 50 cents. Telegraph in the house. Modern conven- 
iences are here including electric bells, livery, boats, etc. 
A special feature of the Algonquin, much affected by 
believers in the efficacy of out-door air, in shape of commo- 
dious tents with carpeted floor and all the etceteras of a well 
furnished bed-room, will be provided for those who prefer 
tent life to the accommodations of the hotel. That the table 



Saranac Lake. 



99-c 



will be first-class goes without question. Rates $3.00 to $4.00 
per day, $15.00 to $25.00 per week. 

A number of very interesting excursions may be made from 
this plaee, the wilderness routes centering in Saranac Lake 
being many, concerning which full information can be obtained 
at the hotels, of the local guides, whose province and pleasure 
is to furnish such details. 

The provident man will have secured his guide in advance 
of his arrival here if his trip contemplates hunting and fishing 
or the wild-woods camp. In absence of personal knowledge 
enquire of your landlord, then ask to see the certificate 
of whoever applies for a situation. The Adirondack 
Guides' Union provides such certificates and you will be 
justified in refusing to employ any one not in possession of 
one. 

Lower Saranac Lake is little less than five miles long by 

one and a 
quarter wide. 
It is longest 
from Amper- 
sand in a 
south-westerly 
course to its 
inlet. Sym- 
metrical as a 
whole, it is 
separated into 
several natural 
divisions by 



-A\Ap or- 
•L0W£R-5ARANAC;LAKf 
.ju. (540 rt 

SCAtC OF MiUS 




outspreading peninsulas and chain-like groups of islands ; 
there being of the latter (counting as such several huge rocks) 
one for every week in the year. 

^^The outlet is about midway of the lake, three miles 
southeast of its head, receiving the flow of Cold, Rogers 
and Ray brooks on the right and the water of Lonesome 
Pond on the left and enlarges to form Miller Pond, then con- 



100 The Adirondacks. 

trading swings gradually around and passes through the vil- 
lage of Saranac. 

This entrance to the lake region, always important, is be- 
coming better known, and must in time, by virtue of its posi, 
tion and environment, become one of the gateways on the 
main line of travel, the other being Blue Mountain Lake ; the 
two iorming the terminal stations in the grand round trip 
through the Saranac and Raquette waters, crossing the Upper 
Saranac at its outlet and leading into the wilder sections about 
Big Tupper Lake. 

The morning following our arrival at Martin's (now Mill- 
er's) we took passage in one of Bartlett's freight boats, which 
chanced to be going up with brick and other hotel supplies. 
At the head of the lake, "in the shadow of a great rock," we 
entered the inlet and sailed up through the lily pads, between 
lines of tall dead trees, marking what was once the shores of 
the stream. Something over a mile above we came to the 
falls — but little more than rapids — where the water shoots 
down through the rocky channel, with a swis/i and a saucy 
curl or two at the bottom. Here we stepped ashore, and 
helped to pull the boat up through the cut, then got aboard 
and picked our way slowly up stream. 

We noticed that the boat displaced two inches of water at 
stem and i8 at stern, and we labored with the captain to con- 
vince him of certain facts but he allowed that he knew how 
to load a boat, and we dragged over the sandy bottom into 
Round Lake and up to Bartlett's finally followed by a series 
of swells such as follow in the wake of a deep sea propeller. 

Round Lake is about two and one-half miles in diameter, 
and, as its name implies, nearly round in shape. It contains 
several very pretty rocky islands. The shores are bold, and 
at that time were brilliant in their autumn dress. Passing 
across, we went out on the west side between two great rocks, 
and up a slow stream half a mile, to Bartlett's. 



UI'PER Saranac Lake. ioi 

The Saranac Club House (formerly Bartlett's) is at the 
foot of a short carry between Round Lake and the Upper 
Saranac. The portage is by cart, costing 50 cents for boat 
and baggage. The traffic to this point is generally by water, 
although possible to reach the house by a road through the 
woods. 

This property has lately been purchased by a company, in- 
corporated as the "Saranac Club" with a charter member- 
ship of 20. The stated objects of the club are, primarily, the 
health, happiness and pleasure of its members, but while the 
accommodations of the house will be largely required for the 
club it will be kept open as a hotel and the public accommo- 
dated to such an extent as may be without inconvenience to 
club members. 

•l» Tw rK ^|v rfi ijC v|p 7P T* 

Gentle reader, if your heart does not bound in sympathy 
with an angler's tale skip this ; it is only a fishy experience. 
While at Bartlett's in '6^, we decided to take a trip through 
the upper lake and return (as the course we had marked out 
simply led across the south end), and I thought it would do 
no harm to put out a trolling line — we might strike something. 
So, after dinner, I applied to the alleged clerk for the neces- 
sary articles. He did not appear particularly anxious to 
spring around and wait on people. He was devoted to his 
duties behind a little semi-circular desk, which fenced in one 
corner of the room, and afforded a safe retreat for himself and 
sundry dark-looking bottles. He appeared tired, but said he 
would try to rig me up. In the course of half an hour I 
found him sitting contentedly on the porch, where he had 
stopped to rest, and was soothed with the information that he 
didn't believe there was any use trying to trolL I thought so 
myself but nevertheless, so long as I had set out with that in- 
tention I proposed to persevere, so he started again. After 
another lapse of valuable time, I found him in the guide-house 
sitting serenely on a dry-goods box, apparently going to sleep. 
At last, however, with the aid of our guide, I secured the 
necessary articles and started. We went and returned, and I 



I02 The Adirondacks. 

didn't get a bite. I was surprised, for I fished faithfully. Per- 
haps the velocity of our boat had something to do with our ill 
lick, as the "gang" to which a shiner was attached would 
spring out of the water occasionally, and skitter along the sur- 
face like any thing but a fish, but I thought they might over- 
look that little matter. The spirit of Isaac Walton moved 
within me, and I felt the excitement of a veteran angler at the 
very smell of fish. I had admired Murray for his wonderful 
skill in casting flies and things; devoured the contents of 
"I go-a-fishing" with avidity, and felt able to play any fish 
and throw any kind of fly in existence In imagination, with 
the great piscatorial lights of the age, I had felt my heart thrill 
at sight of a polywog, and often closed my eyes in an ecstacy 
of bliss, as I thought of the terrific ravings of a half ounce 
sucker when fairly fast. With such feelings surging through 
my breast, we went in to supper. Ah ! can it be possible ? 
Yes, yes^ it is ! it is ! ! A school of fish-balls within easy reach ! 
I will catch one. But what true fisherman can act the part of 
a butcher? True greatness in that line consists not in the 
amount bagged, but in the manner of doing it. My heart 
thrilled with the excitement which the angler feels when the 
gently undulating motion of the atmosphere tells him that his 
game is nigh. I prepared for a cast, A moment's hesitation 
occurred, in which the momentous question presented itself 
whether I had better take my ''scarlet dragoon '^ or " blue- 
tailed-ibies." I tried both, but not a ripple stirred the quiet 
depths. Then I tried a spoon. Now I contend that it re- 
quires a great deal of skill to cast a spoon properly for a fish- 
ball, especially at this season of the year. Carefully I played 
it around over the bread; dragged it slowly across the pota- 
toes, skittered it hghtly over the butter, and let it drop where 
I knew the wary creatures were lying in wait. Slowly it set- 
tled down, lightly as the dew into the heart of a blushing rose. 
A gentle ripple stirred the surface. I felt intuitively that the 
trying moment had come. A thrill shot up my arm, and 
throughout my body, to the very pit of my stomach, as the 



Exciting Sport. 103 

beautiful creature curled upward and struck — struck hard. 
Then began the struggle for life on the one side against 
science on the other — mind against matter. It is an un- 
doubted fact that an intellectual, man, with a good spoon, is 
more than a match for any fish-ball in existance. Carefully I 
played him, for he was a gamey fish-ball. The surrounding 
gravy was lashed into fury, and foamed white as the driven 
snow, but the cruel spoon held him, and, with a sullen shak- 
ing, he rested on the bottom — preparing for another run. 
Now he darts away like a flash of light, and is brought up by 
my gradually, though firmly-compressing arm ; then he turned? 
and clove his native element as the thunder-bolt might cleave 
a "Summer squash. But the spoon brought him up once more, 
and he turned directly toward me. It was a critical moment — 
a moment of terrible suspense. 

" Give him the butt !" screamed the Professor, dodging be- 
hind the teapot; "give him the butt ! — they always do." 

" Stand firm. Professor !" I cried, wrought up to the high- 
est pitch of excitement as the enraged fish-ball sprang into the 
air, and made directly for me with my mouth wide open : 
" stand firm, and the victory is ours." 

I gave him the butt as he came, and the delicate rod bent 
as a reed shaken in the wind. Oh ! the terrific fire that blazed 
from the eye of that fish-ball will haunt me till my dying day. 
Rage, agony, despair, all blended in one, as, shaking the spark- 
ling drops of gravy from his gleaming sides, he sprang entirely 
over us — -plunged downward on the other side. Again and 
again he renewed the attack. But I desist. Suffice it to say 
that, in less than an exciting hour and fifty-nine minutes sport, 
I succeeded in safely landing that heroic creature and laid 
him — a conquered fish-ball — at my feet. Science had again 
triumphed. 

Mr. Murray says, '* the highest bodily beautitude 1 ever ex- 
pect to reach, is to sit in a boat with John at the paddle, and 
match again a Conroy rod against a three-pound trout." As 
for me^ give me my trusty spoon — or even a sharp stick. I 



I04 The Adirondacks. 

care not luho sits at the paddle, and let me once more feel the 
deathless joy of a single-handed encounter with an untamed 
fish-ball, and I'll murmur not, though a yawning legislature 
opens and sucks me in forever. Pardon this ebullition ; I can 
never keep cool when excited. And right here, let me lift my 
voice against the horrible practice of some coarse natures, 
whose soul never swept upward to a spiritual conception of 
flies ; and who, with no excuse, save perhaps that of hunger, 
can, with a common hook and line, and filthy worms for bait, 
snatch a kingly trout bald-headed, and lay him gasping in un- 
comfortable terror on the ground. I cannot find words of 
condemnation strong enough to express my horror of this 
barbarous practice, which is extremely vulgar, contributes 
nothing to science, and is, in all probability, excessively annoy- 
ing to the fish. 

On the contrary, the scientific alurement of a denizen of 
the aqueous fluid to the one more volatile is an achievement 
worthy of a great intellect. The skillful playing prepares the 
noble creature for its final transition, which, if not actually 
attended with pleasurable sensations to the subject in question, 
is owing to its lack of appreciation of the important part it is 
playing in the march of intellect. It is also more christian- 
like and refined than bull-baiting, because less dangerous ; and 
we cannot wonder that great minds — divines even — are some- 
times translated by its wonderful fascinations. 

Upper Saranac Lake rests at 1,577 feet above tide. It is 
eight miles long, measuring north and south 3 about two miles 
wide at its broadest places ; and is divided into unequal lobes 
by points projecting from its east and west shores. It dis- 
charges toward the east from its south end, making a rapid 
descent of about 35 feet in 100 rods, to Bartlett's. It contains 
a number of islands ; those at the south being rounded or 
level ; those at the north, bold and rocky. The shores partake 
of the nature of the islands ; are thickly wooded, and rise into 
hills, which can hardly lay claim to the title of mountains, but 
which are picturesque and attractive. In the distance, at the 



Upper Saranac Lake. 



105 



north, is St. Regis Mountains ; away at the east, Whiteface ; 

toward the south-west, Ampersand and Seward. 

Rustic Lodge is at the south end of the lake on the divide 

between Saranac and Raquette river waters, about two 

miles from Wawbeelc and three from Bartlett's. From this 

point the famous "Indian Car- 
ry" extends south one mile to 
Stony creek Ponds, and past 
them on the west, two miles 
further, ending at the Raquette. 
The house is picturesque, half 
log, half frame, and, with several 
detached cottages of one room 
each in a line along the ridge 
facing the lake, has capacity for 
about 60 guests. Mails are 
brought here and depart daily. 
Rates, $3.00 per day; $14 to 
$18 per week. Open May ist 
to October 20th, Charles S. 
Simpson, proprietor. 

Saranac Inn is at the head of 
Upper Saranac Lake about 15 
miles from Saranac Lake Village. 
The road runs through a pic- 
turesque section of the country, 
finally entering the woods, which 
in places exist in their primeval 
condition. All the way — except 
in extremely bad weather — the 
road is in good condition and 
By water from Saranac Inn to 
Smith's loi miles. The house 




SCALE. 



RUSTIC lODbi 



IP 



MAP OF UPPER SARANAC LAKE. 

(From Survey by Dr. S.B.Ward.) 



the ride a delightful one. 
Miller's is 20 miles; to Paul 
stands at a point extending out into the lake and commands a 
broad expanse of water and distant mountains equalled no- 
where in the Adirondacks, except from the high land between 



io6 



The Adirondacks. 



Mirror Lake and Lake Placid. The land is dry and porous, 
the peninsula on which the house stands level, and the woods 
which forms a pleasant feature in its surroundings, are grove- 
like, resembhng a cultivated park in their shadowy depths, 
Under its present management the Inn has gained the highest 
praise. The table is exceptionally nice. This house has a 
capacity for 125 guests. Board $4.00 per day; $17.50 to $30 
per week, according to rooms. The season is from May ist 
to October 5th. A loop of the telegraph extends to this point 
with office in the hotel. Post-office address " Saranac lun." 
D. W. Riddle, Manager. 

This place is specially attractive to the fisherman, because 
of the multitude of small ponds and streams adjacent, there 
being within a circuit of three miles over thirty that are recog- 
nized as among the best 
trout yielding waters of 
the Adirondacks. For 
obvious reasons also, the 
hunter with limited time, 
will find this available 
ground. A good road 
penetrates the forests; 
an excellent house ren- 
ders the isolated posi- 
tion comfortable. It is 
well out in that wilder- 
ness which, north, west 
and south, is almost un- 
broken and impenetra- 
ble save over the watery highways, where the streams and 
ponds cover the tract like crystal beads on a net-work of silver. 
Into this labyrinth come the deer who delight in still wa- 
ter and the tender food growing at its edge. With them it is 
a favorite feeding ground and they find none better even in the 
far west. All these attractions tend to make the Saranac Inn 
n unusually desirable resort. 




MAP SHOWING THE 15 SQUARE MILES BELONG- 
ING TO THE SARANAC INN COMPANY. 



Upper Saranac Lake. 107 

This is a favorite spot with ex-President and Mrs. Cleveland, 
and headquarters during their visit to the woods. Dr. S. B. 
Ward, of Albany, is, also, a regular visitor ; and to him the 
publisher is indebted for a copy of the map incorporated in 
the large map of the wilderness and shown on page 105. A 
pretty little church on the hill back of the hotel, erected in 
1885, is open for service during the summer. A number of 
very attractive private camps are on the bay west of the house, 
and at various points south. 

On the opening of the A. & St. L. Railroad (which is ex- 
pected to be in operation at this point in July) a "tally-ho" 
will run to Saranac Inn Station, two miles distant, to connect 
with all trains. Fare 50 cents. Until the opening of the A. 
& St. L. (of which due notice will be given), stages will run 
as heretofore, connecting with trains on the Chateaugay R. R. 
at Saranac Lake village and with the N. A. Railroad at Sara- 
nac Inn Station. 

Steamers " Saranac " and " Loon " will run to and from 
Bartlett's, Rustic Lodge and Wawbeek on the Upper Saranac 
to connect with stages and trains. 

Hotel Wawbeek is the name of the hotel at the Sweeney 
Carry, on the west shore, opposite the outlet of the Upper 
Saranac Lake. " Wawbeek " is Indian for big rock, suggested 
by a huge boulder lying on the hillside near by. The point is 
a commanding one, affording a scene which, for diversity and 
extent, is not equaled on any other lake west of Lake Placid. 
A long stretch of water extends toward the north ; eastward a 
deep arm of the lake runs two miles away to the outlet ; 
to the south are bold shores and the rocky islands that cluster 
around this end of the lake ; beyond it, the rugged Stoney 
Creek Mountain, blue Ampersand and distant Mount Seward. 
The house is of artistic design and commanding proportions 
in shape of a Greek cross with surrounding verandas, present- 
ing sunny nooks and cooling shade, according as conditions 
favor or inclination suggests. An immense fire-place in the 
office and smaller ones in public rooms and in a number of the 



loS The Adirondacks. 

sleeping rooms insure means of warmth in time of need. 
Pure water is there, brought into the house from a distant 
spring. Post-office, ** Wawbeek " and a telegraph office are in 
the house. Capacity about 200. Price of board $4.00 per 
day; $18 to $30 per week; open from June ist to October 
15. It is under the management of Francis W. Foster, late 
manager for the Saranac Club at Bartlett's, who will be found 
agreeable, painstaking and efficient. 

This point is reached from Saranac Lake Station through 
the Lower Lake and stream by rowboat, or by way of the 
Northern Adirondack Railroad to Tupper Lake Station, 
thence 9 miles through the woods by stage. Fare $1.50 (or by 
private carriage if required). It can also (on the opening of 
the A. & St. L. R. R., of which public notice will be given), be 
reached by steamer "Saranac" running to Saranac Inn, con- 
necting there with stage to Saranac Inn Station. Stage and 
steamboat fare will be $1.25. 

Sweeney Carry extends from Wawbeek west three miles to 
the Raquette River. For transportation of boat and luggage 
across, the price is $1.50. Parties of three can ride over on 
a buckboard for 50 cents apiece. 

Tromblee's is on the Raquette River, at the west end of 
Sweeney Carry. Buckboards can be had here by east coming 
passengers for the three mile trip over, and carrying wagons 
for the boats and luggage. The river above this point is de- 
lightfully picturesque, marks of the desolation caused by the 
flooded flats not being so apparent here as further down. Troll- 
ing for picker«el is the popular sport and yields most iatisfac- 
tory results. The house is small, affording accommodations 
for only six or eight people, but it gives a very acceptable 
dinner. Board $10.00 per week; $2.00 per day. Mail daily 
through the season. Open from May ist to November. 
Oliver Tromblee, proprietor. Post-office address, Wawbeek, 
N. Y. It is about 8 miles from Tromblee's Landing by the 
new road to Tupper Lake Station. By river to the foot of 
Tupper Lake the distance is about 1 1 miles. 



Gale. 109-A 

The Lower Raquette near the foot of Tupper Lake is, as 
the result of a dam built at Raquette Pond, a perpetual protest 
against the outrages perpetrated in the name of utility, where 
retributive nature, in pursuance of a well-recognized law be- 
cause of stripped mountain side and barren upland, fails to 
send its old-time supply of rain. The lands that have been 
alternately flooded and drained, often show hideous, slime- 
covered flats and malaria-breeding pits among the skeletons of 
drowned trees standing and lying prone along its course. The 
drowned lands are indicated on the map by parallel lines. 
See page 109-E.) 

Raquette Pond, terminus of the Northern Adirondack 
Railroad, now called Tupper Lake is two miles below the out- 
let of Tupper Lake. See page 109-D. 

Downey's Landing is 8 miles beyond Raquette Pond. The 
stream is navigable ( except for short carries around falls and 
rapids,) and may be done in case of dire necessity, or for 
pleasure. 

Childwold Station, is eight miles south of Saranac Inn 
Station and 5 1 miles from Moira. From this point a stage will 
run daily, west to Gale and Childwold Park, seven miles. 
Fare, $1. On the opening of the A. & St. L. R. R. a stage 
will run from Childwold Park Station. 

The Pond View House ( P. O. Gale ), is situated on the 
shores of Catamount Pond about six miles west of Childwold 
Station. E. P. Gale, proprietor. This of old was a noted 
house of entertainment for sportsmen. Later it has been pro- 
vided with modern conveniences which the old sportsman did 
not consider necessary to his comfort or happiness, and pro- 
visions made to meet the more exacting requirements of tour- 
ists and summer visitors. New parts have been added 
until now accommodatioas are offered for about 100 guests. 
The rates are $2.00 per day; $10.00 to $14.00 per week. 
Special rates are offered guests who may come for spring fish- 
ing or fall hunting, and those who stay through the entire 
season. The house is open the year round. Boats and com- 



Childwold Park. 



109-C 



petent guides can be secured here and all the requirements of 
hunting and fishing can be furnished by the proprietor. A 
large farm connected with the hotel suppHes fresh milk and 
eggs, with vegetables in their season. The Post Office, known 
as Gale, is in one of the buildings connected with the house, 
and the proprietor of the house is postmaster. The place as 
a whole presents the appearance of rustic comfort, which with 
the reasonable terms offered insures a very satisfactory pa- 
tronage. 

Lake Massawepie is the fountain head of Grass river — 
one of the best trout streams in Northern New York — and a 
noted resort for deer. Mr. Addison Child^ to whom this sec- 
tion owes much 
of its prosperity, 
and Mr. Henry 
G. Dorr of Bos- 
t o n , together, 
own the whole 
western half of 
the township, and 
have preserved 
under the state 
law, a game and 
pleasure park of 
5,000 acres, em- 
bracing Lake Massawepie and six contributary sheets of water 
that encircle it. 

Childwold Park House is on the east shore of Massa- 
wepie Lake, flanked by a number of attractive Queen Anne 
cottages in the service of the house. This place with the 
opening of the N. A. and A. & St. L. Railroads to Tupper 
Lake has been made easily accessible. It has natural attrac- 
tions of broken and picturesque wilderness surroundings, and 
a broad, beautiful lake with numerous small ponds adjacent. 
The house stands on high ground rising considerably above 
he water, with piazzas on three sides, and a belvedere, rising 




I09-D 



Childwold Park. 



78 feet above the lake. Boats, hunting and fishing supplies, 
can be obtained here with competent men for camp or trail. 
Childwold Park house and cottages will accommodate about 
250 guests. Price for board $3.00 per day ; $14.00 to $21.00 
per week according to room and length of stay. Open June 
ist to October. Wm. F. Ingold of " The Magnolia," Florida, 
is manager and deservedly successful, bringing to the work not 
only energy, but a commendable enthusiasm that exalts the 
science of hotel keeping into the realms of high art. 

Convenient railroad service is maintained from New York 
and Boston. Wagner sleeping cars run from both cities 
daily, Sunday excepted, to Childwold Station without change. 
A telegraph line and daily mail are in operation during the 
season. It is now reached by stage from Childwold Station 
on the N. A. Railroad, 7 miles distant. Fare, $1. On the 
opening of the A. & St. L. Railroad a stage will run to Child- 
wold Park Station 6 miles distant to connect with trains on 
that line. Fare $1.00. 

The Lower Raquette can be reached via Potsdam. 
There are small houses at intervals along the road and river, 

where entertainment can be had at from 
$1.00 to $1.50 per day. The Forest 
House is at Stark's Falls, 22 miles 
from Potsdam. The Jordan House is 
6 miles farther, opposite the mouth of 
the Jordan River, The " Kildare Club," 
of New York, composed of members of 
the Vanderbilt family and friends, has a 
hunting lodge near Jordan Lake and a 
park of several thousand acres surround- 
ing it. Kildare Station, on the N. A. Railroad and a new 
road thence to Jordan Lake are for the special accommoda- 
tion of the club. 

Childwold, three miles from Childwold Park, 36 miles from 
Potsdam. It has an elevation of about 1,450 feet above tide 
in a belt of good agricultural land on which a colony of farm- 
ers are thriving. 




The Adirondacks. 



109-E 



TuPPER Lake (village), P. O. and terminus of the N. A. R. 
R., is on the east shore of Raquette Pond, 56 miles south of 
Moira, and two miles below the point where Tupper Lake 
hangs like a pocket on the south side of Raquette River. It 
is a revelation of thrifty and sudden growth, reminding one 
of those marvelous western towns that seem to spring up 
almost in a night. When John Hurd built the N. A. R. R. 
south to this point to subserve his vast lumber interests, this 
was practically virgin forest. The first train ran over the road 
July I St, 1890. Now there are grouped about its terminus 
over a hundred buildings of various sizes and conditions, two 
churches, three hotels, three school houses, and two steam 
saw-mills belonging to John Hurd, with capacity for sawing 
200,000 feet of lumber per day and a smaller one belonging 
to the Hobson Lumber Co., with capacity for sawing 45,000 
feet daily. This is the junction of the N. A. R. R. with the 
A. & St. L. Ry., a section of which extends from this point 

to Saranac Inn and Saranac Lake 
village. Stages run daily to Waw- 
beek, nine miles, fare $1.00. 

Steamboats run from this point 
to the various hotels on Tupper 
Lake, fare 50 cents to $1.00. 

Tupper Lake is 1,554 feet above 
tide. It is nearly seven miles long 
and three broad. It has 25 islands, 
some level and covered with thrifty 
trees, others barren and rocky, rising 
steeply from the water. Long, or 
County Island is the largest, being 
nearly a mile in length, and has on its west side a precipice 
known as the Devil's Pulpit. The surrounding country is 
wild but not grand with mountain heights. Mount Morris, 
at the southeast, is the most important elevation of the sec- 
tion. Bog River comes picturesquely down over the face of 
the rough rocks at the head of the lake where a ruined saw 
mill marks a past " effort." 




I09-F 



TuppER Lake. 



Mount Morris House is on the east side of the lake near 
the outlet. Occupancy uncertain at this writing. 

Redside Camp is on a high bluff, where Redside Brook 
empties into the lake, a half mile south of the Mt. Mor- 
ris House. It stands in a thrifty grove of second growth 
timber and commands a wide and beautiful view of the 
lake and the country beyond. Guests are cared for 
here by Martin Moody. Perhaps Mrs. Moody has more to 
do with the providing for guests than " Mart," but whoever 
the responsible party may be, they furnish good, wholesome, 

substantial fare 
to make the 
heart of the 
hunter and fisher- 
man glad. The 
Post office called 
''Moody" is 
located here also, 
and the proprie- 
tor of the house 
i s postmaster. 
Board costs $2.00 
per day; $12.00 
to $14.00 per week. Opens June ist. 
Accommodations will be provided for 
50 guests. Mr. Moody has been noted 
for years as the mighty hunter, and 
where he fails in knowledge as to the 
best place for game or the best way of 
securing it, there is little hope that 
others will succeed. 
TuppER Lake House is on the west shore of the lake near 
its south end. It is about 35 miles, as the way goes, from 
Saranac Lake (station), and can be reached from that direction 
during the summer by rowboat, making a pleasant day's 
journey. The excellent train service maintained by the 




The Adirondacks. 109-G 

Northern Adirondack Railroad, makes it possible to leave 
New York in the evening and reach the Tupper Lake House 
in time for dinner next day. With the opening of the A. & 
St. L. Railroad, time and distance will be reduced still more. 
A station to be called " Horse-Shoe Pond " will be established 
on the new road about 5 miles west of the house, and stages 
will run to connect with trains. However, until the opening 
of the new road ( which will be duly announced ) visitors 
will come and go by way of Tupper Lake. Under the 
present arrangement it is found a source of considerable sur- 
prise to visitors, who had thought to bury themselves in this 
far-away corner of the wilderness, to find daily mails, the 
news of the world in their familiar paper of the day before laid 
by their plate at tea time, and all the necessaries with many of 
the perishable dainties from the centres of civilization follow- 
ing and contributing to their enjoyment of the woodsy things 
which nature here so bountifully provides. This may be fair- 
ly called the geographical centre of the lake region. It is »o 
the eastern edge of the Mud Lake country which is probably 
the least known and visited of any part of the wilderness. Dr. 
Alfred L. Loomis says it is " the best location for sport, and 
as healthful as any in the Adirondacks," and the Doctor is 
good authority on both questions. The house will accommo- 
date about 100 guests. It is provided with open fire-places in 
parlor and principal bedrooms, is lighted with gas, has pure 
spring water brought through pump-logs from a mountain 
spring, and is furnished comfortably and with the best of beds 
throughout. It will be open from May ist until late into the 
season of fall hunting. Price for board, $3.00 per day; 
$14.00 to $21.00 per week, with special rates for early and 
late visitors. If the earnest effort of the management can 
make a resort pleasant and agreeable, no place in the Wilder- 
ness can rank higher than the Tupper Lake House, 
which is saying a good deal. The supply and provision store 
established here for some years will be continued with New 
York goods at New York retail prices with the cost or trans- 
portation only added. For more specific information in rela- 



Stony Creek. hi 

tion to house or surroundings address the proprietors T. & B. 
Hatch, Tupper Lake, N. Y. 

The " Lakeside Club," of New York, comes here annually 
and occupy rooms in house owned by members and set aside 
for their special service. 

Little Tupper Lake is an easy half day's journey at the 

south, the most tedious part of this way being the two-mile 

carry from Bog River into Round Pond, where the thrifty 

wagoner will charge you $2.00 for boat and luggage. 

** ******** 

The Hiawatha House is at the south end of Indian 
Carry, among the trees on the north side of the first of the 
Stony Creek Ponds. Here the country is wild on every side. 
Deer come to feed about the borders of the lakelet, and, 
when followed by dogs, often take to its waters. Charles 
Wardner, proprietor of the Hiawatha House, is affable and 
ready in service, and has earned for himseli high praise from 
guests, and a reputation that calls back many old friends. 
He has made a success out of this place which, while possess- 
ing many desirable features, was, for lack of just such a man, 
for many years a dismal failure. The house will provide for 
about 35 guests. Rates $2.50 per day; $10 to $14 per week. 
Open May ist to November. Post-office address, Axton, 
Franklin Co. Conveyance across the Indian Carry to or from 
Saranac Lake costs 75 cents for boat and luggage. To Tupper 
Lake Station (12 miles ) $2.00. 

Stony Creek Ponds are three in number. The first and 
third are small ; the middle one about a mile the longest way. 
Sometimes called " Spectacle" Ponds. 

Stony Creek, applied to the outlet of the ponds, is a 
misnomer. It is about three miles long, slow, sluggish and 
winding, and difficult of navigation in time of low water. 
From its mouth, down the Raquette to Big Tupper Lake, the 
distance is 20 miles; up stream to Raquette Falls, seven. 

Raquette Falls is 12 to 15 feet in height, with 
one mile of rapid water above. Raquette Falls Hotel 
will provide for 30 guests, and affords a general stop- 



112 The Adirondacks. 

ping place for those who would indulge in the excellent hunt- 
ing and fishing of this section. It usually divides the long 
stretch between the Saranacs and Long Lake with a substantial 
dinner (75 cents), or a welcome night's rest to the round trip- 
per. Now instead of the old stone-boat drawn by oxen, buck- 
boards on which the voyager can ride comfortably under the 
shadow of his inverted boat, cross the intervening il miles to 
the navigable waters above. Each passenger is charged 50 
cents, and each boat with its baggage, $1.50. Board $2. per 
day $ 1 2, per week, Wm. McC^lellnnrl nr^T-r^Vtor. 

Resuming once more if you please, the thread of our oft- 
broken narrative, we will proceed on our journey southward. 
When we followed the ox-sled over the carry in 1873, a steam- 
boat whistle had never been heard in this region ; since then 
they have signalled each other across the cany, and a regular 




UP THE RAQUETTE. 

line is a possibility of the near future. The river is wonderful 
in its solemn beauty. The water in the shallows is amber, at 
a greater depth red, then a rich brown. Here it appears almost 
like ink in its blackness. Sluggish in motion, it fills its bed and 
seems fairly to round up in the centre. Great, shaggy, twisted 
cedars line its banks, their branches reaching out toward the 
light and downward toward the water, the sides away from 
the river limbless and verdueless. So still it runs that it appears 
more like a river of black glass than water. It has undermined 
the trees until they have fallen over and stand at every con- 
ceivable angle, and, while yielding, they have curled upward 
with the even sweep of a scimeter, while the smaller limbs, 
seemingly alarmed at their too near approach to the water, 
grow back upon themselves and hang in great hooks and solid 
festoons from their leaning supports, the whole mirrored in the 



The Adirondacks. 

glassy surface where we seem to float midway between the 
heavens above and the heavens below. 

About five miles above Raquette Falls, Cold River, coming 
down from Mount Seward on the east, supplies by considerable, 
the largest volume of the^two streams which here meet. Above 
this we pick our way carefully. We have left the cedars, passed 
through the maples, now stripped of their foliage, and come 
out on a natural meadow, where the coarse hay is cut and 
piled up on platforms, there to stay until the ice shall render 
it accessible. Over the shallow outlet we go, through the tall 
grass, where mounds of sticks and reeds show the presence 
of a colony of muskrats, out into Long Lake, past the Island 
House, where a jolly party of spiritual fellows are having 
a loud time, and well on into the night, rap for admission at the 
door of the Long Lake Hotel. 

Long Lake is nearly 14 miles in length and about i mile 
in width at the widest part, which is near its outlet. It runs in 
a northeasterly direction, receives the waters of the Raquette 
River at its head and gives them up to the Raquette River at 
its foot, which, flowing northward, and passing within about 2 
miles of Upper Saranac Lake, turns toward the west, touching 
the foot of Tupper Lake, thence northwesterly past Potsdam to 
the St. Lawrence. 

Long Lake contains several islands ; one, nearly midway in 
its length, is called Round Island, and resembles Dome Island 
of Lake George. 

The Island House, near the outlet, afforjis entertainment 
to such as may at any time from choice or necessity be at this 
end of the lake. 

Owl's Head Mountain, near the head of the lake, on the 
west, is marked on the map as being 2.82:; feet above tide ; but 
as Long Lake is 1,614 above tide, this isn't much of a mountain 
after all. To the west the country is comparatively level ; on 
the east is Mount Kempshall ; on the north is seen the blue 
serrated summit of Mount Seward, 4.384 feet above tide. 

A number of private camps are scattered along the lake, 

' notably those of Senator Piatt and of Rev. Dr. Duryea, near the 

north end. Toward the south end some considerable attempts 

have been made at cultivation. The land, however, while apparent- 



114 The Adirondacks. 

ly promises well, is cold and poorly adapted to farming pur- 
poses. 

Long Lake (village) lies a half mile east of the lake and 3^ 
miles from its south end. In the matter of business Long 
Lake lumbers some, farms some, trades a little, hunts and 
guides considerably, and makes sporting boats of superior 
quality and of a build that is recognized and spoken of gener- 
ally as the " Long Lake boat " although the one in question 
may have been built many miles away. Although spots here- 
about have been settled and cultivated for many years, this 
section has, for lack of satisfactory accommodations and trans- 
portation facilities, been neglected by sportsmen and summer 
visitors, and as a consequence has retained much of its wildness 
in its immediate surroundings. With the reopening of the Saga- 
more, and the atiendant improvement in transportation, the 
objections that have retarded its advance are removed and its 
backward development will prove rather an attraction than 
otherwise. Another factor in its development is the growing 
interest in wild cottage sites — the natural longing of man for 
" a lodge in some vast wilderness" and the resultant organiza- 
tion of a company with a preserve of 4,000 acres of land 
lying on both shores of the lake at, and north of, Round Is- 
land, and the offer through their agent, of camp and villa sites 
of loacre lots each, including the game and forest privilege of 
the entire tract, on a three or five year lease with the privilege 
of purchasing at from $500 to $1,000 anytime during its con- 
tinuance. Application for purchase or lease may be made to 
General Hazard Stevens, 85 Devonshire street, Boston, Mass., 
or to M. R. Sutton, Agent, Long Lake, N. Y. Among those 
who have become purchasers are Rev. F. S. Haines of Easton, 
Pa., and Dr. J. H. Woodward of Burlington, Vt, who has 
built a pretty camp at " White Birches " Point. 

Long Lake Hotel, situated in the village, provides for 
man and beast at a moderate price, and is open the year round. 
Helms & Smith, proprietors. 

The Lake House is on the lake shore at the point of de- 
parture for the village. It is three stories high and will pro- 



Long Lake. 115 

vide 'for about 40 guests. Rates unknown. M. Fletcher 
manager. The road from the village crosses the lake here, 
over a long floating bridge with a raised section at one point 
to admit of the passage of small boats underneath. 

The New Sagamore is the grand hotel of this section. It 
stands on a bluff projecting from the east shore a little way 
south of the floating bridge and commands a view of almost 
the entire length of the lake, north and south. The erection 
of the old hotel at this place in 1885 marked an era in the 
history of the town, creating a prosperous business out of the 
pleasures and necessities of its guests. It was burnt to the 
ground in the fall of 1889 with all its contents. The new 
house erected now in the place of the old, is very like the 
original except that it is finer and grander in all respects. It 
is ample in all its proportions with spacious halls, office, dining 
room and parlors and a general smoking and lounging room 
where guide and sportsman gather to make plans for coming 
excursions or to live over again the stirring events of the day. 
It has all the necessary conveniences of the modern hotel, and 
although plainly furnished will be found as comfortable as the 
visitor can reasonably desire. From a knowledge of the house 
under Mr. Butler's management in former years, it is safe to 
predict that the table will be exceptionally good and the house 
full of woodsy comfort, very captivating to those who come to 
avoid the conventionalities of the average summer hotel. Ac- 
commodations will be provided for about 200 guests. Rates 
$3.00 per day; $12 to $25 per week. It is proposed to keep 
open summer and winter hereafter. E. Butler, proprietor. 
Connection is had with the W. U. telegraph in the Sagamore 
office. Mails arrive and depart daily. Stages will run to 
Blue Mt. Lake; nine miles distant, to connect with the regular 
line to trains at North Creek, or private conveyance to the rail- 
road, much more comfortable than the stages, will be furnished, 
carrying three or more persons with light luggage at $6.00 
oach. Regular stage fare to Blue Mountain Lake is $1,50, to 
North Creek $4.50. 



ii6 The Adirondacks. 

The water route to Blue Mountain Lake via Long Lake, 
Raquette River, Forked Lake, Raquette, Utowana and Eagle 
Lakes, is about 35 miles. For this route a guide will be required 
as far as Raquette Lake, where steamers are taken. 

The Grove House is about two miles south of the float- 
ing bridge in a grove of tall pines on the abrupt eastern bank 
of the lake, seven miles from Raquette and nine miles from 
Blue Mountain lake. Capacity of house, 50; rates, $2.50 per 
day; $10.00 to $14.00 per week, David ' Helms, proprietor. 
(Post-office, Grove, Hamilton Co). Open May ist to Novem- 
ber 15. Daily mail. Pleasant features of the place are its 
open camps and cottages with open fire places. Special rates 
. are offered to parties remaining any considerable time. Mr. 
Helms is a noted guide and hunter and his house is a favorite 
resort for hunters and fishermen, who know that his experience 
and advice may be relied upon. He knows where the trout, 
the bass and the pickerel are to be found in their season ; 
where the duck swims, and the partridge hides, and the deer 
runs, and his knowledge is freely placed at the service of his 
visitors. 

Mr. Helms will carry boats, passengers or baggage from 
this point to Forked or Blue Mountain Lakes on application. 
This is sometimes done to avoid the, at times, difficult portion 
of the water route. 




CHAPTER VIII. 
The Schoolmaster 



E SENT our Saranac guide back, ano in- 
quired for one who understood the Ra- 
quette Lake region. 

" I know the man you want," said oar 
host, in a way as though he felt himself re- 
sponsible for our future happiness ; "Chai 
ley Blanchard knows all about it, just came 
from that region day before yesterday. I'll 
send for him." 

He did so, and soon a little fellow in a 
Garabaldian shirt stood before us. Think- 
ing of the work a guide is expected to do, 
it seemed as though this one was meant for ajqke or an orna- 
mental head that we would have to carry over the rough 
places. Kellogg must have noticed the look of surprise oa 
our faces, for, taking me aside, he said : 

" Oh, he's all right ; knows the country better'n I do my 
house, and will take you right every time." 

" Carry a boat too ? " I asked, incredulously gazing at the 
slight figure. 

" Yes, sir! carried a boat, oars and all, over the same route 
a day or two ago. Then he can learn you something — tell 
you all you want to know. There's no need of his guiding at 
all, only he likes it. I tell you what, sir, he's qualified for bet- 
ter things. He's — ^a — school — master II!" 

Of course we were overwhelmed, and engaged the school- 
master at once, finding him a willing worker, a pleasant 
companion and an exceptionally good guide — thoroughly ac- 
quainted with the region through which we were traveling. 

Four miles from Kellogg's we cajne to the rapids. Here the 
professor and myself took the loose articles, and the school- 




ii8 The Adirondacks. 

master started off with the boat over his head, looking like a 
huge, inverted, pickle-dish on a pair of legs. 

Reader, did you ever assist over one of these portages in 
the forests, where the path never dries, and 
j^l^f the decayed leaves and vegetable mould 
I makes a bottom of black muck, with rocks 
■and roots projecting above the surface; which 
'same are stepping-places for the skillful, but 
i^fearful traps for the unwary? 

The guide takes the boat, and you are ex- 
pected to carry the lighter articles. You -ad- 
mire him as he starts off lightly along the shppery way. Your 
soul swells with conscious freedom, and you snuff in inspi- 
ration and black flies by the mouthful. You gather up the 
oars, paddle, guns, fishrods, etc., and step out determined to 
show that you, too, are a natural woodsman. How exhilar- 
ating the action ! You spring from rock to rock, watching 
your feet that they may not get the start of you ; for the solid 
bottom may be anywhere from two inches to two feet below 
the surface. Soon you are busy dodging the bushes, that 
scratch your hands and slap your face without the slightest 
provocation; and, after a while, you observe that the oars 
and other things are getting heavy, and are on a tender place. 
You change, and make it worse. Then you find they have 
got into a disagreeable habit of spreading out at various 
angles — of going on one side of a tree when you had de- 
signed to pass on the other; and you back up for another 
start. You wrench your back and get a crick in the neck in 
the struggle. The guide is disappearing through the trees in 
the distance. Surprise, perspiration, determination, and cob- 
webs, appear on your face ; and the things on your shoulder 
hurt more, and sprawl about worse than ever. You are con- 
scious of an expression like anything but a master of the situ- 
ation ; and your load looks, for all the world, like a fully-ex- 
tended umbrella denuded of its covering. You try in vain to 
dodge the various branches that are making unprovoked 




The Carry. 119 

lunges at you. The vines trip you, the stones slip from be- 
neath your feet, and roots that look solid give way and let 
you down. You are getting careless of results, 
and take chances that do not always turn out 
well. You step on one end of a root, and the 
other end comes up and pitches a quart or so of 
mud in your face. You forget to select a safe 
place for the next step; your foot glides gently ^i 
down, and disappears in the inky depths; and, 
in resurrecting it, the other one goes under. 
The chances are that about this time you begin to talk to 
yourself; and the tenor of your remarks depends something on 
how you were brought up. 

Grimly you plow forward now ; for you are certain that the 
worst has come, and care nothing how many trees you over- 
turn in your course. Then a sapling on either side catches an 
oar, and they shut up on your aching neck like a pair of 
shears, a friendly limb lifts your hat, and drops it in the mud 
right where you was going to step, and, to save your hat, you 
make some playful passes in various ways, one foot gets on 
top of the other ; then they wander off in different directions^ 
and you sit down. 

It is a delightful sensation to sit aown — .n the wild woods 
— after violent exercise — and rest. Gentle zephyrs steal re- 
freshingly across your brow, and black mud insinuatingly 
through the pores of your trousers, /t such a moment as 
this, f ee from the thraldom of civ'.lization, in the solemn still- 
ness of the mighty forests, with a soul attuned to its inspiring 
harmony, some well-remembered passage, learned in youth- 
tide, comes welling up from your joyous heart. Sometimes, 
however, Bible quotations get somewhat mixed, and a disin- 
terested beholder would be apt to misconstrue your devotional 
expressions. At such an hour as this, the most a man wants 
is undemonstrative sympathy. Such episodes, however, are 
the spice that season the dish of glorious things served up 
here among the mountains and lakes of the great wilderness. 



I20 The Adirondacks. 

A half-mile carry brought us to still water ; then a short dis- 
tance of boating to Buttermilk Falls (which also lays claim to 
being Murray's *' Phantom Falls") where the water dashef 
jmd foams down over the rocks, making a descent of about 
20 feet — and the name, though not very poetical, was prob- 
ably suggested by the churning it gets in reaching the bottom, 

" Murray talk about shooting these falls in his boat, in pur- 
suit of the phantom form, is a very probable story for a min- 
ister to tell," said the schoolmaster with a shrug. "Why, I 
drove a brood of ducks down over there once. The old one 
knew better than to go — she flew up stream; but they — a 
dozen of young ones — went over, and only three came out 
alive. He talk of doing it ! There isn't Baptist enough 
about him to do it — but there's one thing he can ' shoot ; ' 
that's the long bow." Alas for Mr. Murray's reputation for 
veracity ! The beautiful creations of his fancy, the bright 
pictures conjured up by his fertile brain, are held as witnessej^ 
against him, simply because he, in his lavish generosity, has 
enriched the common occurrences of every-day life in the 
woods, with the precious incense of conceptive genius, and 
left a dazzled world to separate the real from the ideal. The 
guides took him literally as he said ; and, although then in the 
high tide of his popularity, had come to the conclusion that if 
his preaching was not a better guide to heaven than his book 
to the Adirondacks his congregation might have managed to 
worry through with a cheaper man. 

We put the boat into the deep, quiet water above the falls, 
and went upward a mile and a half; then a portage of the 
same distance brought us to Forked Lake. 

Forked Lake is a lovely sheet of water, about five miles 
in length, and appropriately named. The shore is compara- 
tively straight along on the south side; but on the north it is 
an irregular lir.c, which, as you approach the centre, opens 
up into a far-reaching bay — itself the main branch on which 
is strung a succession of deep bays, with intervening points ex- 
tending from east to west. "The Cedars," belonging to F. C. 



Raquette Lake. 121 

Durant of New York, situated near the head of this bay, is 
one of the elegant private camps of the wilderness. 

Forked Lake House looks into this north bay from the 
south shore. This is included in the property recently ac- 
quired by the Hamilton Park Club, which takes in the north- 
ern half of township 35 and all of 36, extending beyond Lit- 
tle Tupper Lake. Transient visitors can procure meals here, 
but no permanent guests will be taken except members of the 
club and their friends. It is intended that a handsome struc- 
ture shall in time take the place of the old house. 

Raquette Lake is at the south. Its outlet is through the 
long arm, which extends east, nearly parallel with the south 
shore of Forked Lake, into which it empties. From the 
Forked Lake House the road crosses to the steamboat land- 
ing on Raquette Lake, about a half-mile distant. It is a 
great mass of bays, separated by far-reaching points, extending 
nearly east and west. Its greatest length is but about five 
miles, measured through islands and intervening headlands; 
yet so irregular is its shape that the shore line, in its devious 
windings, is over 40 miles in extent. 

It is said that the first house built at Raquette Lake stood 
on Indian Point; the next one at Wood's Point, where an 
effort was made at farming. A twenty years' struggle, however, 
ended in its abandonment ; and, when we passed by, in 1873, 
onJy one lone man — old Alva Dunning, living Robinson Cru- 
soe-like on Osprey Island, — reigned monarch of the beautiful 
lake. Then the Sabbath stillness was broken only by an occa- 
sional party in camp or passing boat. There was no puffing 
steamer to carry us to our destination — only our gallant little 
pedagogue — who conducted us over the waters of the Ra- 
quette, up the tortuous windings of the Marion River, along 
through Utowana Lake, across Eagle Lake, in the gathering 
darkness ; and finally, up the uneven slope, to find weleome 
and rest in the " Eagle's Nest," once the wilderness home of 
Ned Buntline. 



CHAPTER IX. 
"The Eagle's Nest." 



Where the silvery gleam of the rushinK Btrc 
Is so brightly seen on the rocks dark g^een. 
Where the white pink grows by the wild red roM 
And the blue hirelings till the welkin rings. 

Where the red deer leaps and the panther creep*. 
And the eagles scream over cliff and stream. 
Where the lilies bow their heads of snow. 
And the hemlocks tall throw a shade o'er all. 

Where the rolling surf laves the emerald turf. 
Where the trout leaps high at the hovering fly. 
Where the sportive fawn crops the soft green lawn. 
And the crows' shrill cry bodes a tempest nigh— 
There is my home — my wildwood hom«. 



Ned Buntline,* author of the above sweet hnes that 
seem to rise upward like the joyous song of a wild bird, 
bringing thoughts of wild violets and the fragrance of 
dewy forests in its train — this strange man, with the 
blending natures of the tiger and the lark — came here 
in 1856, and here wrote, and hunted, and filled the mind 
of the public with wild reports of his erratic doings 
to his heart's content. He made the " Eagle's Nest " his 
home for some time, married a wife and buried her here, 
and then he tired of the old place and drifted out into 
the world again. 



* " The life and Adventures of Ned Buntline," by Will Wildwood, is now 
Deing published in serial form in Wildwood' s Magazine, 



"Ned Buntline." 



123 



Ned had earned his spurs in Florida and Mexico, and 
when the war cloud broke over the South, his restless, ven- 
turesome spirit called him to the field once more. Five 

wounds by sabre and bul- 
let, one of which has made 
him lame for life, testify to 
the service done for the 
country he served proudly 
and gladly, while with fine 
scorn he refused the prof- 
fered pension, and since, at 
intervals, as novelist, dram- 
atist, actor and temperance 
advocate has filled the pub- 
lic mind like — no one un- 
der the sun but only "' Ned 
* Buntline " the irrepressible. 
"NED BUNTLINE.". ^ut thc oM caglc had 

flown, and other birds of 
prey occupied the nest when we came, guided by its wel- 
come iight, through the October darkness to claim shelter 
for the night. It was then the only house of entertain- 
ment on the Eckford Chain, of which Eagle Lake is the 
middle link, and afforded a stopping place for sportsmen dur- 
ing summer and for lumbermen in winter. This lake is very 




• Edward Z. C. Judson (" Ned Buntline") was born at Stamford, N. Y., March 30 
(823. His adventurous career began in early childhood. He killed his first dee 
R^hen eight years of age, ran off to sea at eleven, was promoted to midshipman when 
only thirteen, the same year fought seven duels with fellow-midshipmen who refused 
to mess with him on account of his supposed inferiority, and threatened to deplete 
the whole budding navy unless he was acknowledged as an equal ; the navy wilted. 
He served with credit in the Seminole war, in the Mexican war, and in the great Re- 
bellion. His first story, " The Captain's Pig," was published in his fifteenth year. Ai 
a writer !of " Frontier Fiction " he was unexcelled. Buffalo Bill, Texas Jack, and 
Wild Bill were made famous by his stories of border life. His income as a story writer 
amounted to $20,000 annually. His literary productions would make more than two 
hundred large volumes. He was foremost in organizing the order of " United Ameri- 
cans " and the " Patriotic Order Sons of America." He died July x6, x886, at hia 
Bountaia home, the ** Eagle's Nest," in Delaware Co., N. Y 



1^4 The Adirondacks. 

pretty, and about one mile long. It receives the waters of 
Blue Mountain Lake at its east end ; and this stream, which 
was then too shallow to float us in our loaded boat, is now 
the thoroughfare of the little steamers that ply these waters. 
(For matter relating to Blue Mountain and Raquette Lakes, 
see page 196.) Across Blue Mountain Lake we went, and 
rested on its west shore, 35 miles from Long Lake by the 
roundabout way which we have come, but only about five 
miles away over the mountains. 

The schoolmaster decided the question of which route to 
take back by shouldering his boat and starting up over the 
mountain. The path was a gradual ascent for a distance, 
that led through a long reach of swamp and open meadow- 
land, where the springy surface of matted grass and interlaced 
roots shook and bent over unknown depths of black muck ; 
then we descended into the forest-embowered waters of South 
Pond ; crossed South Pond to its outlet ; thence to Long Lake, 
and, by boat, to the hotel ; after which we chartered seats in 
a farmer's wagon,<and went east to Newcomb to spend the 
Sabbath. 

Newcomb is 14 miles from Long Lake, 27 miles from Root's 
and 29 from North Creek. Stages run three times a week. 
At Root's, connection is made with stage to and from Port 
Henry and Scroon Lake. Newcomb is one of the oldest 
settled sections in the wilderness ; is quiet and comfortable, 
and affords good hunting and fishing. A water route, leading 
from this point, through Rich and Catlin Lakes, to Long Lake, 
strikes the latter near its outlet. 

Washington Chase is postmaster, job printer, and dealer in 
drugs and general merchandise, and one of the enterprising 
men of the town. 

The WAYsrDE Inn will accommodate about 50. Board 
$7 to $10 per week. P. Monahan, proprietor. 



CHAPTER X. 




"On the Tramp." 

HUS far our travels had been principally by 
carriage of some kind or by boat. We had 
passed almost around the great peaks but had 
not been among them. The mountains that 
now looked down on us from the north we had 
viewed from the other side and from the 
west. We had made a loop of over 40 miles 
in the trip to Blue Mountain Lake and back 
to Long Lake, then east to Newcomb. Now 
we must trust to our feet to cany us where 
neither boat nor horse could go, and thanks 
to the pure air, and our initiatory struggles 
over the various carries, we felt equal to the task. So, on 
Monday morning, with knapsacks strapped on our backs, we 
left Newcombs for Adirondack, the ruined village among the 
mountains, eighteen miles distant. 

Soon we saw an old friend, the Hudson River, here so nar- 
row that in places we could almost jump across it. From the 
north it came, moving sluggishly along between dark balsams 
that lined its banks. Away over beyond rested the faint blue 
crest of Tahawas, "the cloud splitter." 

" Tahawas," so called on the maps and in the postal depart- 
ments, is generally spoken of here as the "lower works," to 
distiguish it from the upper Adirondack village ; once there 
were extensive buildings at this place ; a long dam across the 
Hudson, here called the " North River," flooding the valley 
back to the outlet of Lake Sanford, and barges floating be- 



126 The Adirondacks. 

tween the upper and lower village, carrying provisions up and 
the ore down. There was but one house standing there when 
we came. This was occupied by John Cheney the " Mighty 
Hunter " who we had hoped to see but could not as he was away 
hunting at the time. This house was burned the year follow- 
ing (1874) and the Adirondack Club House, where entertain- 
ment is now offered to the passing visitor, built afterwards. 

After dinner we followed along up the road on the west side 
of the valley. About half way up, the foot of Lake Sanford 
is reached. This lake is four miles long with low marshy 
shores here and there, punctuated by round hills and knobby 
points. Just above the head of Lake Sanford is the " new 
forge." The huge building that inclosed is gone now, but the 
great stone furnace, forty feet square at its base, stands firm 
and solid as when made. 

The history of the place is brief and sad. In 1826 Messrs. 
Henderson, McMartin and Mclntire, who owned and operated 
iron-works at North Elba, were shown by an Indian, a piece 
of ore of remarkable purity, which he said came from a place 
where " water run over dam, me find plenty all same." The 
services of the Indian were secured at once, at the rate of two 
shillings and what tobacco he could use per day, to conduct 
them to the place spoken of. They found, as the Indian had 
said, where the water literally poured over an iron dam. Has- 
tening to Albany, a tract of land embracing the principal ore 
beds in that vicinity, was secured, forges built, and a road cut 
from the lower works to Lake Champlain. 

The ore was rich but the expense of transportation to market 
swallowed all the profits, the enterprise proving a financial 
failure. Still it was persevered in until the death of Mr. 
Henderson, who was killed by the accidental discharge of his 
pistol. He had always had a nervous fear of firearms and at 
this time his pistol was carried by the guide in a pack which 
he laid down to perform some service required of him. 
Thinking that it lay in a damp place, Mr. Henderson picked 
the pack up and dropped it on a rock near by. With the 
motion came a sharp report from the pistol, the hammer of 




The Adirondacks. 127 

which had probably struck the rock in faUing. Mr. Hender- 
son fell to the ground, saying " I'm shot," and soon breathed 
his last. The body was borne out on the shoulders of work- 
men, and afterward a beautiful monument placed where he 
fell, bearing the inscription : " Erected by filial affection to 
the memory of our dear father, David Henderson, who acci- 
dentally lost his life on this spot by the premature discharge 
of a pistol, 3d Sept., 1845." The place has since been called 
Calamity Pond. In the death of Mr. Henderson the motive 

power was re- 
moved,and three 
years after h i s 
death the works 
were abandoned. 
When the writer 
first visited that 
ADIRONDACK IN 1873. scctlou therc was 

an old Scotchman and family in charge, who cared for the 
property and took in strangers. And well do I remember the 
night when they sent us to sleep in one of the deserted houses 
which had the reputation of being haunted. We did imagine 
that curious sounds were heard daring the night ; but whether 
of some uneasy spirit or some poor dog that had bean robbed 
of his nest we could not tell. We quieted our fears and 
conscience, however, with the reflection that if it were a 
ghost it would never think of looking for human beings in 
M^/ bed; and, if a dog, he certainly hadn't lost anything 
worth mentioning in the operation. 

To-day but little appears of the ruined village. All but 
two or three of the buildings that stood there in 1873 have 
been removed or destroyed. The ancient school-house now 
does duty as a fish-hatchery, and the old kilns are overgrown 
with vines and shrubbery. 

There was something gruesome about the place when we 
approached in our tramp of '73. 

A quarter of a century had passed since the hum of industry 




LAKE SANFORD 



The Ruined Village. 129 

sounded there. Where once was heard the crash of machinery 
and the shouts of children at play, was heard the shrill bark of 
the fox or the whir of the startled partridge. In place of the 
music of voices, was silence, solemn and ghostly. Over the 
mountains and the middle ground hung a dark funeral pill 
of cloud, across which the setting sun cast bars of ashen light, 
that fell on the nearer buildings, bringing out their unseemly 
scars in ghastly relief, and lay in strips across the grass-grown 
street which led away into the shadow. On either side stood 
cottages stained and blackened by time, with broken windows, 
doors unhinged, falling roofs and crumbling foundations. At 
the head of the street was the old furnace, one chimney still 
standing, one shattered by the thunder bolt in ruins at its 
feet. The water-wheel — emblem of departed power — lay mo- 
tionless, save as piece by piece it fell away. Huge blocks of 
iron, piles of rusty ore, coal bursting from the crumbling kilns, 
great shafts broken and bent, rotting timbers, stones and rub- 
bish lay in one common grave, over which loving nature had 
thrown a shroud of creeping vines. 

Near the centre of the village was a large house that at one 
time accommodated a hundred boarders, now grim and silent. 
Near by at the left stood the pretty school house. The steps, 
worn by many Httle feet, had rotted and fallen, the windows 
were almost paneless, the walls cracked and rent assunder 
where the foundation had dropped away, and the doers yawned 
wide, seeming to say not " welcome " but " go.' 

" O'er all there hung- a shadow and a fear, 
A sense of mystery the spirit daunted, 
And said as plain as whisoer in the ear, 
The place is haunted." 

As we advanced a dog appeared at the side of the large 
house and howled dismally, then, as if frightened at the sound 
of its own voice, slunk away again out of sight. We knocked 
at the door, but no sound save a hollow echo greeted us from 
within — that was also deserted. Then we went out in the 
middle of the street where, suspended in a tree, hung the bell 
that used to call the men to work, and on the Sabbath, per- 



I30 The Adirondacks. 

haps, the villagers to worship in the little school-house neat 
by. Clear and sweet, pure and fearless, its tones rang out 
over the forests, away to the mountains, then back to us, 
dying out in soft echoes. And with it went the cloud that 
had oppressed our spirits. 

We invited ourselves to enter, passed through the sounding 
hall to the rear, foraged around until we were satisfied that 
there was no danger of immediate starvation, then we built a 
fire and set about preparing our evening meal — at which point 
the rightful owners entered and went through the form of 
making us feel at home. 

This is now the headquarters of the Adirondack Club, who 
have leased and hold the surrounding territory as a game and 
fish preserve for the use of themselves and friends, and while 
their rules proclaim them a " close corporation," no one under- 
standing the circumstances can find reasonable objection. 
Stringent regulations apply equally to all members of the club. 
No member is permitted to hunt or fish outside the season as 
established by law, or hunt at all except on regularly appointed 
occasions. The small house at Tahawus and the larger 
building at the Upper Works are under competent manage- 
ment, and although primarily intended for the accommoda- 
tions of the club, provide excellent fare for the chance visitor. 
Price of accommodations is fixed by the club at $3.00 per 
day for all persons except guides and servants, and no person 
not a member of the club or their guests, will be entertained 
for more than a single night unless under pressing conditions. 
Parties who go through Avalanche Pass from the north and 
return by Indian Pass, or ince versa., usually find the way too 
long for a single day, but breaking the trip at the Upper 
Works divides it evenly enough. Those who come are made 
welcome and entertained at the Club House in excellent 
shape. Myron Buttles the manager, is a walking encyclopedia 
of fact and figures, tireless in the discharge of his duty as 
manager and unremitting in his attention as host. 



Lake Colden. 131 

Calamity Pond is 5 miles toward the east and reached over 
a road which is used for lumbering in winter but which in sum- 
mer is passable only on foot. 

Lake Colden is two miles further, over a mountain trail. 
This is one of the wild lakes of the woods, and next to Avalanche 
Lake gives the wildest water view in the wilderness. On the 
west shore is a log house belonging to the Adirondack Club 
where a forester is kept to guard the interests of the Associ- 
ation and see that laws respecting the preservation of game 
and fish are properly carried out. North of this log camp a 
few rods is an open camp where parties going or coming may 
make themselves reasonably comfortable for the night. 

Avalanche Lake is nearly a mile north of Lake Colden, 
the trail passing also along its west shore. Its altitude is 2,846 
feet above tide. Its waters are cold and its walls of rock are 
perpendicular on either side. It is half a mile in length, and 
but a few rods wide. Between it and lake Colden are the 
debris from two immense slides that decended the mountain 
long before the place was known, imprisoning the waters of 
this lake. A trap dike here shows a section of Mount Colden, 
split downward for a thousand feet, its outflowing rocks nearly 
bridging the lake. This lake, and, past it, Colden, is best 
reached now by trail from Adirondack Lodge, five miles 
north. See page 86. 

Lake Henderson is about half a mile north of Adirondack. 
It is two miles long with its outlet near the center, on the 
east. From its head a trail leads to the Preston Ponds, lying 
west of Wallface Mountain — the head of Cold River, which 
flows west into Raquette River. Toward the north we look 
up a gradual slope tlirough Indian Pass ; the dark green sides 
of Mclntyre on the east, mighty Wallface on the west. 
Up this slope we went on the m-^^^ing following our night at 
the iron Works. 




CHAPTER XL 

Indian Pass. 

HAD expected to find a level, fertile, grove-lfke 
way through which we could walk with little 
exertion in the shadow of great rocks on either 
side, but how different the reality. For three 
miles the rise was gradual, then we began to 
climb, crossing the rivulet back and forth as we 
went upward, at times making long detours to 
the right and ascending the mountain some 
distance, then a level stretch along its sides until 
the wildly dashing torrent was reached once 
more; then on.ward, upward, the path growing 
wilder and more difficult, the brooklet bounding from rock 
to rock, then lost in some dark cavern, anon trickling down 
among the huge boulders, gurgling in muffled music beneath 
our feet, then bursting out to rest a moment in some mossy 
basin, pure crystal in an emerald setting on which floated 
fairy ships of Autumn leaves, then onward in its long jour- 
ney to the sea. 

We had caught occasional giimps<ri through the trees of — 
was it a cloud or solid rock that rested off toward the left, we 
could hardly tell until we traced its outline against the sky, for 
Indian summer had hung her mantle of haze over the great cliff 
and it seemed but a shade or two deeper than the blue above. At 
last, through an opening it came out ; vast, grand, overwhelm- 
ing, immeasurable. The eye saw it hanging in mid-air, a cloud, 
an outline, a color; tender, sw**et, luminous. The soul felt and 
bowed beneath its awful weight. The giant pines that fringed 
its brow seemed bristling hair, the great rifts and seams a 
faint tracery that scarred its sides. Motionless, it still seemed 
to be sweeping grandly away as clouds shot upward from be- 
hind and passed over to the east, then approaching, and re- 




INUIAN I'ASS. 



146 

treating, as cool gray shadows and yellow sunlight raced 
swiftly across or lay in slant bars along down its misty face. 

But the highest point was not reached yet ; we were just 
entering at the lower gate, and for nearly a mile it was a con- 
tinuous climb over great chaotic masses of jagged rock, 
throw i. there by some convulsion of Nature, now on a huge 
fragment that seems ready to topple over into the gulf below, 
now under a projecting shelf that would shelter a large com- 
pany, now between others from which hang dripping mosses 
and sprawling roots, stooping, crawling, clinging to projecting 
limbs, climbing slippery ledges, upward all the time. 

The trees that had found lodgment on the top of the rocks 
seemed to reach out thirstily tor something more than they 
found in their first bed ; one that we noticed had taken root 
on the top of a huge boulder, and sent down a mass of inter- 
woven r©ots twenty feet to the damp earth beneath. 

At last we near the summit and stand on Lookout Point \ 
close by rises that grand wall a thousand feet up, and extend- 
ing three hundred feet below us, reaching out north an J 
south, majestic, solemn and oppressive in its nearness ; a lonjj 
line of great fragments have fallen, year by year, from the 
cliff above and now lie at its foot; around on every side 
huge caverns yawn and mighty rocks rear their heads where 
He who rules the earthquake cast them centuries ago. Along 
back, down the gorge we look, to where five miles away and 
1,300 feet below us is Lake Henderson, a shining drop in the 
bottom ot a great emerald bowl. 

Slowly the sun swung around toward the west, the shadow 
of the great wall crept down into the valley across the gray 
rocks, and over toward the mossy ones that had lain there 
unnumbered centuries ; gradually the sweet tinkling, gurgling 
music of the infant Hudson died away and solitude reigned. 
Then as we passed onward a familiar sound came once more, 
faintly at first, then more distinctly, the singing of little 
waters ; first trickling over ocks, then dancing downward, 
increased in volume by tributary streams from the slopes of 
Mclntyre — rocked in the same mountain cradle, twin brothers 
and equal at their birth — the migaty Hudson rolling south- 
ward, and the impetuous Ausable dancing away toward the 



Indian Pass. 



147 



north Do^n the rocky bed of the streai . we went until we 
had left the pass behind, through the thick pmes and hemic ck 
out into hard timber land, our only g^ide the blazed trees, for 
the leaves covered the ground like a thick carpet, often hid- 
ing the slight trail. Over the foot hills of the mountain on 
the west, often misled by seeming paths until the absence of 
scars on the trees warned us to retrace our steps and gather 
up the missing thread. On and on, until it seamed ti^at the 
eighteen or twenty miles we had expected to travel oefore 
seeing a familiar landmark had lengthened out into twict chat 
number; then in the gathering twilight we emerged from ihe 
woods in sight of North Elba, forded the Ausable — grown io 
be quite a river since we had left it away back toward i*« 
head — and up to Blin's, with a sound as though a whoic 
colony of bull-frogs were having a concert in each boot 

Does it pay to go through Indian Pass ? I answer a thou- 
land times yes. It costs a little extra exertion, but the 
experiences and emotions of the day come back in a flood ol 
nappy recollections, and the soul is lifted a little higher and 
made better by a visit to that grand old mountain ruin. 




Mount Golden 



McIntire. 
[ bouth from Blinn's. | 



Indian Pats 



Over across ihe river at the west, visible from Blin's, is 
John Brown's grave, which we touched from the north, then 
passed westward to the Saranacs. 

Ames', something over a mile north and east, is described 
in the preceding pages. Here we took dinner, and, in the 
afternoon, went to Keene, thence south, through the valley ; 
but as that region is usually visited by way of Westport and 
Elizabeth town, we will <;lance at that route. 



CHAPTER XII. 




Pleasant Valley. 

^ EAVING Westport, an enjoyable stage ride of 
eight miles in a westerly course, leads 
through a notch where we can look down 
into that lovely, mountain-guarded retreat 
known as Pleasant Valley. It is scarcely 
less beautiful than its twin sister, Keene 
Valley, over across the grand ridges to the 
west, save that the mountains do not crowd 
against it quite so closely. Like the other, 
is a favorite resort for the artist, the quiet 
lover of nature, and for ladies, whose protectors, made of 
sterner stuff, are roughing it in the mountains and lakes 
farther west. 

Elizabethtown is the county seat of Essex County. It 
contains a native population of eight or nine hundred ; has 
five churches — Congregational, Methodist, Baptist, Episcopal 
and Roman Catholic, court-house and jail, offices of county 
officials, hotels, stores, etc. It is peculiarly an American 
town, having very little foreign population, with no mills or 
forges to fill the streams with sawdust, clothes with soot, or 
eyes with cinders. 

The Windsor stands on the level plateau at the south 
of the village ; has accommodations for about 250 guests 
and a reputation that has placed it among the select hotels of 
the Adirondack Mountains. It is picturesque and unique in 
design, consisting of four buildings of uniform sh^pe closely 
connected by covered promenades and piazzas along the first 
and second stories. Each building is three stories high, and 
on each is a glass enclosed observatory which may be used for 
observation purpose or utilized on occasion, for dormitories. 
Its convenient office is a general assembly room for lady and 



150 The Adirondacks. 

gentlemen guests alike and contains, besides the usual fittings 
of the hotel office a telegraph office and news and notion stand. 
Adjoining are the gentleman's lounging room, etc., on one 
hand and on the other a music room with elevated stage and 
necessary appliances for amateur dramatic and musical per- 
formances, while the ground floors of other buildings contain 
reception room and parlors. Sleeping rooms, commodious 
and well furnished, and a superior table, meet the require- 
ments of the traveling public. There are bowling alleys and 
billiards indoor, tennis courts and croquet grounds outside. 
A well appointed stable afifords facilities for the enjoyment of 
interesting drives that abound in this section. Guides, with 
all the necessary equipment for sport, can be arranged for at 
the office. The Windsor Trout Pond, owned by the pro- 
prietor of the house, is held for the special use of guests. In 
short, what energy can provide to make the Windsor a de- 
sirable resort gives it a variety of interests approached by 
few places in the Adirondacks. Rates, $2.50 to $3.00 per 
day with special rates for the week or season. For particulars 
address the proprietor at Elizabethtown. 

The Mansion House stands east of the Windsor. It is 
a large building showing prominently as we dip over into 
the valley, affording, with connecting cottages, accommoda- 
tions for 50 guests. Tennis court, croquette, billiards, 
bowling, etc., are standard amusements. An interesting 
feature of the house is Music Hall. Telegraph office in 
the house. Stages for the station and interior points are taken 
at the door. It has been long and favorably known and has 
an excellent patronage with the compliment of old guests re- 
turning year after year. Open the year round. Rates $2.50 
to $3.00 per day. S. J. Lamson & Co., proprietors. E. E. 
Wakefield, clerk. 

Maplewood Inn (formerly the Valley House), is situated in 
the lower village, G. W. Jenkins, late manager of the Mansion 
House, proprietor. It has a capacity for 75 to 100 guests. 
Rates will be given on application. 



EuBA Mills. 151 

Stages connect with all trains at Westport. Fare $1.00. 
Stage leaves for Lake Placid every morning, Sunday excepted, 
fare $3. Stage for Keene Valley leaves morning and after- 
noon. Fare $1.50. The four and six-horse "tally-hos" 
running between Elizabethtown and Westport tend to popu- 
larize the route among lovers of coaching. The trip is over 
an excellent road, through a picturesque section, and is not so 
long as to become wearisome. 

Hurricane Mountain is the highest peak near by, a sharp 
cone, on which the sun seems to hang as it bids the valley 
good-night. A wagon road leads to its base, five miles dist- 
ant, from which, by a sharp climb of two miles, the summit is 
reached. It gives one of the finest high views to be obtained 
in the Adirondacks — second, perhaps, only to that from the 
top of Whiteface. 

Cobble Hill rises at the southwest edge of the plain like 
a hugh, rough pyramid. Beyond this, toward the south, the 
mountains approach each other, growing rough and precipitous 
as the level intervale narrows to a mere notch at Split Rock 
Falls, eight miles south of EHzabeth. 

EuBA Dam is, or rather was^ the name of a little place ten 
miles south of Elizabethtown, but as its use had a tendency 
to familiarize the youth of the land with incipient profanity, it 
was changed to Euba Mills. Here a road turns west, leading 
through Chapel Pond Gorge to St. Hubert's Inn, at the head of 
Keene Valley. South of Euba Mills it passes Deadwater, 16 
miles from Elizabethtown ; Roots, 23 miles ; and Scroon Lake, 
32 miles. North of Elizabethtown the road runs close under 
the frowning ledge of Poke-o'Moonshine, past Auger Lake to 
Keeseville, 22 miles distant. West, it winds up over the 
mountain pass, to Keen, 12 miles. Cascade Lakes, 18 miles, 
and out across the plain of North Elba, with its grand pano- 
rama of mountains at the south, to Lake Placid. 27 miles. 
See page 87. 




CHAPTER XIII. 

Keene Valley. 

EENE VALLEY undoubtedly possesses the 
loveliest combination of quiet valley, and 
wild mountain scenery, of any section of 
the Adirondacks, if not indeed on our con- 
tinent. Through it, from the south, come 
the sparkhng waters of the A u s a b 1 e , 
flowing quietly along beneath overhanging 
maples and gracefully swaying elms, rippling 
over glistening white sand ; murmuring 
through pleasant meadow-land, dancing 
away among the stones ; dashing down rocky raceways to 
where, among the spray and foam of the cataract, it thunders 
and rumbles and roars as if angry with its prison walls ; then 
onward between the dark overhanging ledges through the 
northern portals and away to Ausable forks where it joins its 
sister from the great Indian Pass above. 

About six miles from its head the road from Elizabethtown 
comes in on the east. South of this we follow up the stream 
that winds quietly through the valley from its head. As we go 
some of the beauties that have lent such a charm to this lo- 
cality begin to appear — sweet, restful, shady groves of water 
maples, great massy drooping elms, clumps of alders fringing 
the river brink and great canopies of native grape-vines clasp- 
ing the huge rocks in loving embrace or festooned on the 
sturdy trees through which open up long vistas of meadow- 
land with a background of mountain green, and above all, the 
summits of glittering granite. 

On every side the mountains shut us in, rising up out of the 
level instead of in the usual gradual curve of mountains 
from the plain, giving unmistakable evidence at various 
points that the bottom lands of the lovely valley are but the 
accumulated deposit of long ages, when the floods swept 



158 The Adirondacks. 

down from the mountains and left their sediment in the notch 
below. Picturesque " bits " are found everywhere. The 
waterfalls are varied as the shifting forms of the kaleidoscope, 
many deserving particular attention. They are too i.umercus 
to mention, too wild and varied to be described. They must 










KEEXE VALLEY. SOUTH FROM BROOK KNOLL LODGE. 

be seen to be appreciated. If a guide be wanted for these 
short excursions, none more competent or entertaining can be 
ound than the veteran explorer, '^ Old Mountain Phelps," 
who knows wilderness ways by instinct, and talks with the 
elements as with familiar friends, but whose ripening years 
have caused him, regretfully, to yield to younger heads and 
limbs the long tramps through valley and over mountain 
heights in which he once delighted. See him at any rate, for 
a cordial welcome and pleasant hour is certain to be the 
result. 

When we reached Keene Valley, in our tramp of '73, we 
found accommodations at Crawford's for the night. In the 
morning we hurrted up " Old Mountain Phelps," to show us 
the way further in. 

We found him at his home near the falls that bear his 
name ; a little old man, about five feet six in height, muffled 
up in an immense crop of long hair, and a beard that seemed 
to boil up out of his collar band ; grizzley as the granite ledges 
he loved to climb, shaggy as the rough-barked cedar, but 
with a pleasant twinkle in his eye andean elasticity to his step 
then equaled by few younger men, while he delivered his 
communications, his sage conclusions and whimsical oddities, 
in a cheery, chirrupy, squeaky sort of tone — away up on the 
mountains as it were — an octave above the ordinary voice, 
suggestive of the warblings of an ancient chickadee. 



*' Old Mountain Phelps. 



15". 




"old mountain PHELPS.'* 



" So you wanted old Mountain Phelps to show you the way, 
did you ?" said he, " Well, I s'pose I kin do it. I'll be along 
as soon as the old woman'll bake me a short-cake. The wise 
man provides for an emergency, and hunger's one of 'em." 

Orson Schofield Phelps is what his parents named their 
baby, and "Old Mountain Phelps" is what every body calls 
him now ; but his first name 
was given years ago, some- 
time before he had earned 
the last. He was born in 
the Green Mountain State in 
1816, from which he came to 
the western part of Schroon 
when 14 years of age; he 
had an enthusiastic love for 
the woods, took to them on 
every possible occasion, and 
was a long time engaged in 
tracing out wild lot lines 
that extended far in the interior, "■ where in those times, deer 
and speckled trout were as plenty as mosquitoes in a damp 
day in July." 

In 1844 he was with Mr. Henderson at Adirondack, soon 
after which he married and settled in Keene Valley. In 1849 
he made his first trip to the top of Marcy, passing out over 
Haystack around the head of Panther Gorge and to the 
summit, descending near where the main trail now runs, being 
the first man to get to the top from the east. He afterward 
cut what is now known as the Bartlett Mountain trail, and 
guided two ladies over it, a route that had been considered 
impracticable until then He also marked trails to the top 
of Hopkins' Peak, the Giant, up John's Brook to Marcy, and 
several others. He has made a valuable map of the wild 
country around, a section of which may be seen on page 152, 
is a prized and regular contributor to a local paper, and has 
written a voluminous treatise on the Adirondack lakes and 
mountains, trees, birds, beasts, etc., which shows the close 
observer and enthusiastic student of nature. 




o 

X 

w 

u 

< 
Q 

o 



Keene Valley. 



i6i 



The most comprehensive and perfect " picture " is that 
seen from Split Rock or from Prospect Hill, the latter being 
near the home of " Old Mountain Phelps" and easily accessible. 

123 45 67 8 

( ~~ "^ 




KEENE VALLEY FROM PROSPECT HILL. 

I Noon Mark ; 2 Dix ; 3 Dial ; 4 Nippletop ; 5 Snow ; 6 Wolfs Jaws ; 7 Rooster's 

Comb ; 8 Marcy. 

The Estes House is on the east side of the river at the 
west foot of Prospect Hill. It will now accommodate 50. 
$8 to $12 per week; $2 per day. J. H. Estes, proprietor. 
This is the only boarding house in Keene Valley from which 
Mount Marcy is visible. 

" Keene Valley," (village) is one mile from Prospect Hill 
and about 3 miles from the head of the valley. 

The Adirondack House stands on rising ground at the 
west side of the village. It was built in 1882. Will accommo- 
date about 100 guests. Open from June ist to October. 
Price of board $2.50 per day; $10 to $15 per week, with 
special rates according to room, service and length of stay. 
Solomon Kelley, proprietor. 

This house commands a most comprehensive view of the 
village and mountains and the valley extending north and 
south. Double piazzas along its front and sides and a glass- 
enclosed observatory form admirable vantage ground for ob- 
servation. There is a telegraph office here, and mail delivery 
twice daily during the season. A conduit from a mountain 
spring brings pure water, which is carried through pipes to 
every floor. The table is wholesome and makes a special 
feature of fresh cream and milk, eggs and butter and fresh 
vegetables from the hotel farm. The water system and drain- 
age has been subject to complete re-arrangement the past 



i62 The Adirondacks. 

season, and the sanitary provisions are believed to be perfect. 
It may be of interest to some, to note that there are no less 
than five city physicians owning, and occupying, cottages here 
at Keen Valley during the season. For tennis, croquet, or 
the distinctively American game, ample grounds are provided. 
Those who go into camp can obtain camping necessaries here. 
Respectful attention marks the service of this house from pro- 
prietor down, and a disposition to please and satisfy all 
reasonable desires in visitors, entitles it to public favor. 

Stages deliver guests at the hotel, but those who can send 
notice in advance are advised by the proprietor to do so, to be 
met by the hotel carriages at train or boat at Westport, from 
which point they may be conveyed direct to the hotel, or take 
time for meals, or night, if desired, at Elizabethtown. Those 
who ride or drive — and by the way riding is a popular amuse- 
ment along the level roads and sequestered ways of Keene 
Valley — will find good saddle horses and spring buckboards 
(the easiest riding mountain wagon in the world) at command. 
Stages leave morning and afternoon for Au Sable Lakes. Fare 
for round trip, $1.25. 

The Tahawus House stands at the south border of the 
village, having capacity for about 85 guests. Open summer 
and winter. Rates, $2 per day, $8 to $12 per week. Geo. 
W. Egglefield, proprietor. It is a roomy three story building, 
connected with a rambling group of less pretension, but look- 
ing very cosy and comfortable withal, and seeming with the 
various barns and out-houses almost a village of itself. A 
piazza extends across in front of the new part and along the 
south, front and north sides of the old, making a covered 
promenade of over 300 feet. The larger building contains 
office, parlor, and dining-room and desirable sleeping-rooms. 
A popular feature of the Tahawus House is its theatre, 91x36 
feet, with stage and all accessories for amateur theatricals. A 
ten-pin alley, base ball ground, and tennis court afford ample 
facilities for healthful physical culture. Teams from the 
Tahawus House will meet guests at Westport, when notice is 
sent in advance, and carry without change to destination. 



Keene Valley. 163-A 

The proprietor of the Tahawus House, is a scholarly man 
with radical ideas on some subjects, and well informed on 
general questions of the day, but this, however, will not be al- 
lowed to interfere with the comfort of the guests, who may 
feel assured of hearty and obliging attention. 

Maple Grove Mountain House is the title given orig- 
inally to a picturesque farm-house on the road about a half- 
mile up the valley from the little village, and later transferred 
to a more commodious building erected on higher ground close 
by. Accommodations can here be found for about 40 guests. 
Rates given on application. Henry Washbond, proprietor. 

Flume Cottage stands at the entrance to Washbond's 
Flume, commanding an extended view of the valley north and 
east. Capacity, 40. Board per week, $10. Guests will be 
met at Westport if desired. Monroe Holt, manager. Martin 
Bahler, A.M., owner of Flume Cottage, is a graduate of 
Rutgers College, principal of a flourishmg young ladies' semi- 
nary, at Summit, N. J., and, as periodical landlord here, has 
made it a delightful place of rest for such as enjoy a vacation 
in the mountains. Entrance is hedged about with difficulties 
that make it charmingly unconventional as a house of enter- 
tainment, and as a consequence rather the thing to be able to 
address your letters from Flume Cottage. Transients are not 
desired. A total stranger will need some reference. If a 
Hebrew, do not apply. 

From being a private cottage, first sought by the owner for 
vacation rest, it has grown to present proportions. A former 
guest speaks of it as " an ideal summer home, where food is of 
prime quality, and the rooms are well furnished and kept in 
first-class order." Another guest mentions Flume Cottage as 
a "romantic home, where comforts unexpected in a mountain 
region are found, and the charms of music and the cheerful 
intercourse of a refined home-circle enliven the dullness of a 
stormy day." Professor Bahler is noted for his tramps, and is 
in his element when climbing breezy heights or acting as guide 
in exploring expeditions with those possessed of like affinities. 



163-B The Adirondacks. 

He will spend the summer here with his family and will be 
glad to meet old friends as usual. 

St. Hubert's Inn stands on the spot formerly occupied by 
the Beede House which was burned in 1890. Orlando Beede, 
proprietor. The growth of business here has been remark- 
able and seemingly without effort on the part of its founders. 
Visitors coming here years ago found the old hunter, Smith 
Beede and his son Orlando, who had himself in those early 
days become noted as hunter and guide. The small house 
occupied then became a noted resort, much too small for the 
accommodation of would-be guests, and in 1877 a plain but 
roomy hotel was built on the plateau above. In the spring of 
1886 it was enlarged to double its former capacity to be to- 
tally destroyed by fire in March of 1890. The present hand- 
some structure was immediately planned and a part completed 
and opened for guests the beginning of the season. A gen- 
erous liberality marked the management of the Beedes from 
the beginning. The unconventional character of the enter- 
tainment, with the general freedom of guests to the best of 
everything that could be had, made the place very popular 
from the first, and the same general principles governing the 
management will no doubt contribute to its success in the 
future. 

The new hotel was carefully planned, is striking in appear- 
ance and complete in accommodations. The main building 
forms two faces of an octagon, a third one of which it is proposed 
in time to build, but now enclosed for a tennis court. Con- 
nected with this by a continuation of the piazza floor, is a 
building affording a spacious assembly room removed some- 
what from the hotel proper. The Inn is three stories in 
height with pleasant, large- windowed rooms, many of them en 
suite, with ample piazas and balconies at various points along 
the front reached through doors opening from the upper rooms. 
A spacious parlor and dining room, a large ofhce, telegraph 
office, post-ofhce (Beede's), reception, reading and smoking 
rooms occupy the main floor. It has electric bells, steam 



I63-C 

heat, and is lighted with gas. There are open fire-places in 
the offices and main hall, parlor and dining-rooms. It is 
furnished in modern style, luxuriously and artistically. The 
decorations are simple, but in good taste. Heavy tapestry 
and hanging curtains in place of doors between the public 
rooms, give an air of cozy comfort quite attractive. The 
purest mountain water is brought into the house, and the 
drainage believed to be as perfect as possible. The price of 
board is from $4 to $5 per day; $16 to $32 per week. Open 
for guests June 15. 

St. Hubert's Cottage, formerly known as Widow Beede's, 
is under the same management. It stands about a half mile 
northeast of the Inn, on the face of the bluff that looks north 
ward from the centre of Keene Valley. This house will ac 
commodate 30 guests. Open June ist. Rates, $10 to $18 
per week. To be assured of rooms at any time between July 
I St and September ist, they should be engaged in advance. 

Stages run to Westport morning and afternoon to connect 
with trains. Saddle horses (and Mr. Beede knows a good 
piece of horse-flesh when he sees it), carriages, and mountain 
wagons for extended excursions, can be had here on ap- 
plication. 

The ''Inn" stands on land 277 feet higher than the val- 
ley,— 1,240 feet above tide. The outlook is superb. To- 
ward the east is Hopkins Peak and the Giant of the Valley. 
South — a little to the east — is Noon Mark; Southwest, runs 
the road to the Ausable Lakes. Back to the west is one of 
the lower ridges, beyond which are the clustering peaks of the 
great central group. Along a few rods away, the Ausable 
foams and dashes through its rugged path, picturesque and 
beautiful. 

Roaring Brook Falls are east of Beede's — the head of 
the cliff over which they fall being in sight on the side of the 
Giant, a little more than a half mile distant. The water here 
makes a descent of nearly 300 feet in a succession of cascades, 
hardly touching at each step to gather for the next succeeding 



164 The Adirondacks. 

plunge ; then flashing swiftly down the almost perpendicular 
rock for the last fifty feet, through a trough worn out by its 
action, to rest at the bottom j and out, in pretty little falls 
and dashes, across the Chapel pond trail, and downward 
toward the north to join the Ausable. 

Chapel Pond is one mile farther, in a gorge, southwest of 
the Giant — a nearly perpendicular wall of rock descending 
abruptly to near the water's edge. It is one-half mile long and 
perhaps one-fourth wide ; its dark surroundings give an im- 
pressive air to this lonely sheet, and make it seem more 
fitting as a place for solemn meditation than for angler's 
sport. It is 1,602 feet above tide. 

The Giant's Washbowl is at the northeast, on the side of 
the mountain. It is said you can stand on its edge and throw 
a stone over into Chapel Pond, more than 500 feet below. 

The Chapel Pond road leads from St. Hubert's Inn east 
along the side of the gorge, past Chapel Pond to Euba Mills, 
at the head of Pleasant Valley; thence to Mineville, 15 miles, 
or to Root's, 17 miles from the starting point. The road is 
good, considering the country traversed, and between the two 
valleys is exceedingly wild and picturesque. A day can be 
profitably spent in making this excursion. 

Russell Falls are but a few rods distant, and may be 
reached by paths through the woods west of the Inn. 

To the top of Noon Mark it is two miles; Mount Colvin, 
five miles, the Giant about four miles ; Hopkins Peak, four 
miles. A trail was completed in 1885 from the Ponds road 
to Mount Colvin. It crosses McCrea's Brook over a sub- 
stantial rustic bridge, and passes near the Wizard's Washbowl 
and the high falls of Gill Brook. The steep ledge at the sum- 
mit is now easily scaled by means of stout ladders. Starting 
from the Inn, an average pedestrian can reach the signal in 
about three hours. A trail from the Lower Lake to Indian 
Head was opened in 1888, and a branch trail connecting with 
the trail to Mt. Colvin. A new trail to the top of the Gothics 
was opened in 1887. 



Keene Valley. i6r 

Pesagonia Mountain is in the southwest, its serrated oui- 
Sie suggesting its local name of " Saw-teeth Mountain." Eas' 
of this is the round, knob-like crest, known as " Indian Head ;' 
which, sphinx-like, looks out over the waters of the Lower Av 
oftble Lake. 

Mount Colvin rises beyond, sweeping back towards th^ 
*;outh and east, to its sharp, clean-cut summit so named in 
Ihonor of Verplanck Colvin, superintendent of the Adirondack 
Survey. 

The Adirondack Mountain Reserve is incorporate(^ 
under the laws of New York, with the following officers : Wm. 
G. Neilson, Philadelphia, president; S, Sidney Smith, Ne\\ 
York, secretary; Wm. C. Alderson, treasurer. The board of 
trus^*e?: are Wm. Alexander, S. Sidney Smith, C. C. Cuyler, 
and Frederick J. Stimson, of New York, and Wm. G. Neilson, 
Richard C. Dale, and Edward L H. Howell, of Philadelphia. 

This corporation has purchased the tract of country lying 
south of Keene Valley, including within its limits the Au 
Sable lakes, and the great mountains surrounding them, ex- 
tending southwesterly to take in about one-half of Mount 
Marcy. The declared objects of the association are the pre- 
servation of the forests, lakes, and streams in their natural 
beauty ; to restock the water with fish ; to protect the game ; 
and to render more accessible, by roads and trails, the points 
of interest within its domain. To this end, has been built, 
practically, a new road, along the heretofore almost impassable 
line, from Beede's to the Lower Au Sable Lake, and opened 
to the public. Toll will be charged as follows : For season 
tickets, $1.50; two-horse carriage and passengers, trip $1,00; 
single rig, 50 cents; horse and rider, 25 ; pedestrian, 10; au- 
thorized guides and children under 10, free. The receipts for 
toll are to be expended in repairing and improving the road, 
and in making new trails up the mountains and to important 
lookouts. A stage will run regularly, during the season, from 
the village to the Lower Au Sable. Fare from Adirondack 



The Adirondacks. 



166-B 



House, 75 cents, round trip, $1.25; from St. Hubert's Inn 
50 cents, round trip 75 cents. 

Some of the rules established by the A. M. R. may seem 
over-rigid ; but they have been adopted after a careful consid- 
eration of the case, and with a view to the best interests of all 
concerned. The fact that the owners themselves are bound 
as rigidly as the veriest stranger, is re-ply enough to those who 
would suggest anything but the best of motives, and the move- 
ment is to be commended by all right-minded persons who 
may not consider fishing and the taking of animal life as the 
only pleasurable sensations to be experienced here among 
nature's grandest scenes. 

A rustic gate-house is at the entrance to the Reserve, just 
south of the Inn. At the Lower Lake, a boat-house and 
cottage have been built, where refreshments, boats, and gen- 
eral information, with camp supplies and privileges, can be 
obtained. 

Cutting green timber, peeling bark, or defacing the prop- 
erty of the company in any manner, is forbidden. On Sun- 
days, boats will not be rented, nor will goods be sold by the 
agents of the company. No malt or spirituous liquors will be 
1 3 4 5 




UPPER AU SABLE LAKE. 

I. Haystack; 5. Saddleback; 4. Gothic; 5. Resagonia. 

sold on the company's reserve at any time. Hunting will not 
be permitted this season. Fishing allowed only by special 
permit. All the camps on the lakes are owned and controlled 
by the company, and no one will be allowed to occupy them 
unless accompanied by an authorized euide. Permission can 



i66-c 



Keene Valley. 



be obtained at the boat-house cottage, at the Lower Lake. 
Twenty-five cents per night will be charged each visitor for the 
use of a camp. 

, Following is a list of the authorized guides of Keene Valley 
— an organization bound by rules of its own making, where 
membership may be accepted by the public as a guarantee of 
capability. Address, at Keene Valley. Horace E. Braman, 




SLO*rtH" 



C AMPS 

ON 



Arthur C. Trumbull, Melville J. Trumbull, George W. Han- 
mer, Oren E. Beede, Charles E. Trumbull, Charles Beede, 
Edmund F. Phelps, James Owens, George F. Beede, Harry S. 
Stetson, Melvin A. Hathaway, Le Grand Hale, Frank C. Par- 
ker (Forester), C. Wesley Lamb, Fred. E. Lamb. 

******* 

We saw what was to be seen in the valley ; then, guided 
by old Mountain Phelps, with basket on back and lit- 
tle hatchet in hand, went to South Pass, where St. Hu- 
h'^^^'s Inn now stands, and up along brawling Gi^' "^~'^ok. 



Lower Ausable Pond. 



167 




MT. COLVIN. AUSABLB PASS. RESAGONIA. 



over a path that was dignified by the name of wagon-road, 
but over which but few would then attempt to ride. 

" All things is possible and nothing ompossible," said Phelps 
diving into the bushes at one point, and soon re-appearing 

with a piece of band 
iron which he stowed 
away in his bag, 
" like as not I will 
need this to mend 
an oar or something; 
old Phelps is such an 
easy old critter to 
get along with, that 
they take his boat; 
bang it 'round as 
much as they want 
to — maybe break an oar — and he never'll make a fuss about 
it — shouldn't wonder a bit if they had it off somewhere now." 
After what seemed a long four mile tramp through the 
woods, we came out in a little opening near the brow of a hill, 
and were just rising to look beyond when a fierce gust of wind 
from the other side set the old man's hat whirling back toward 
us. We succeeded in spearing it, then turned and glanced 
out ahead, to be almost dazzled by the wonderful beauty of 
the scene that flashed out so suddenly and unexpectedly on 
our astonished sight. 

Ausable Pond in all its Swiss-like beauty was before us. 
We stood at the end of the road on the brow of a hill whose 
front had apparently been undermined, and ran sharply down 
to the water's edge, gleaming, drifting, unstable sand. On the 
left, close by, was old Indian Head, the side toward us all in 
shadow : rough and jagged, standing like some grim sentinel 
to guard the narrow pass at his feet ; beyond was Mount 
Colvin, its sides rising in places almost straight up from the 
water, then backward to the sharp ridge 2,000 feet above, 
seemingly crowned with a coronet of diamonds that flashed 
and glittered as the water trickled down over the rocks. 



'^mr^ie 



w^^^ 



^^ 





'Jn 



^^^i^ 




LOWER AUSABLE LAKE. 



Au Sable Lakes. 169 

Now, among birches that have grown at the outlet since 
our first visit, stands the boat-house cottage and refreshment- 
room, and a road, circling around the bluff where I speared 
the old man's hat, leads down to the water's edge ; but grand 
old Indian Head still looks out toward the dark green sides of 
Resagonia, and rivulets glisten on the side of Mount Colvin 
the same as then. 

From the head of the Lower Au Sable, a walk of something 
over a mile along the stream that connects the two brought us 
to the shore of the Upper Au Sable, where Phelps entered the 
bushes in search of the boat which we had left there. "Just 
as I expected," said he, with a whimsical triumph in finding 
matters as he had anticipated. " 'Taint there. Old Phelps's 
boats belong to everybody but himself. Wall, we haven't got 
much farther to go to my shanty, that's one satisfaction ; and 
maybe they'll let us stay there all night, considering that it 
belongs to me." So we skirted the west shore a little way, 
and came out at the shanty, where we found the hunting 
party jubilant over the fourth deer they had taken in three 
days, and preparing supper, to which we did full justice. 

Upper Au Sable Lake is about two miles in length, and 
a half mile wide. Without being the very wildest, it is, per- 
haps, the most picturesque of all Adirondack lakes. It re- 
flects, in its waters, a number of the most striking mountain- 
peaks, which, seen from this place, are varied and extremely 
beautiful. Some are thickly wooded slopes; others naked 
rock, seamed and scarred. On the east is the Boreas Moun- 
tain, a long, heavily wooded ridge, terminating at the north in 
Mount Colvin, and extending south about 10 miles. At the 
west is Bartlett Mountain, a high ridge, near the lake. Over 
^ts south slope is seen the sharp cone of Haystack, which 
hides Marcy, the highest of the Adirondacks. Toward the 
north, comes Basin, Saddleback, the Gothic, and Resagonia 
— a grand circle of giants, on whose sides we can mark the 



170 The Adirondacks. 

course of mountain torrents and the white, ghstening path of 
the avalanche. The shores of the lake are thickly wooded to 
the water's edge. 

This is favorite camping- ground, not only for hunters in the 
hunting season, but throughout the warm weather, among 
those who come here to enjoy its beauty and the unfettered 
life of the woods. The camps are mostly open in front to 
face the campfire, and are built and owned by the authorized 
guides of Keen Valley, by authority from the owners of the 
Reserve. 

The ascent of Marcy from Keene Valley is oftenest made 
from this direction, going by boat up the Au Sable inlet to 
Marcy Brook ; then up along the west side of Bartlett Moun- 
tain. We can hardly do better than give the trip in the 
words of tjie " Old Man of the Mountains," who stands ready 
to relieve iis. So we will stand aside, and give him the floor. 

Ladies and gentlemen — Mr. Phelps. 

"Well, I guess I kin show you the way, fur I've been up 
there near a hundred times, I s'pose. Let's see, we're in 
Panther Gorge now, I believe, and, before we go up Marcy, I 
want to show you a sight up here, from the side of Haystack, 
that is worth seeing, where we can look right down into the 
gulf below. See that precipice on the Marcy side ? It is one 
continuous wall of rock, a mile in length, circling around to the 
head of the gorge, with Castle Column at its head. That is one 
of the wildest places in the Adirondacks, where, after a heavy 
rain or in the spring, streams pour down it from all sides. 
You see that water-course over there in the centre ? I have 
seen an almost unbroken sheet of water, six feet wide, pouring 
over that to the bottom of the gorge, almost a thousand feet 
below. Now we will pass on up the trail once more, just 
stopping to notice those shafts of rock across on the Haystack 
side. There are three of them, entirely detached from the 
wall near by, about ten feet square, and one of them near 
fifty feet high, with a loose cap-stone on top of it. The soft 



i'HE ADIRONDACKS. I/I 

rock fttubt have crumbled away between them and the mair 
ledge while they were left standing. Now, out at the uppei 
end and we begin to climb Marcy, striking the John's 
Brook trail that goes down to Keene Flats near its centre. 
Up here, on the side of the mountain, we find a little marsh, 
which is the head of the longest branch of the great Hudson 
River, and the largest branch of the Ausable ; but our trees 
are getting stunted and we will soon be able to see over the 
tops of them; it's about like going through a thrashing 
machine trying to get along before they are chopped out ; but 
here we are at last at the top, and you see this is the place to 
see things', down there at Marcy Brook, where we turned to 
go through Panther Gorge, comes the other trail up this way, 
running spirally up the south side from east to west until it 
strikes the smooth rock that has been swept clean by the 
avalance ; then up that, across back and forth to its head. It 
is about as steep as the roof of a house, and when it is wet and 
slippery it's bad getting along, but when its dry it sticks to your 
boots like sand paper. In making the round trip the trail 
goes down the north side a ways to the head of the Opales- 
cent, then west through the valley and out by Lake Colden 
and Calamity Pond to the Adirondack Iron Works. 

The summit of Tahawus is comparatively level for 6 rods 
north and south, and 15 rods east and west, a few loose boul- 
ders lie about promiscuously. At the west end ol this flat is a 
mass rising up some eight or ten feet that contains the high- 
est solid rock in the State of New York. Tahawus has some- 
thing of a ridge-like appearance, running north-east and 
south-west, although its whole formation is a comparatively 
round mound of rock. The upper thousand feet is bare, and 
clear the farthest down on the south-west side ; the west side 
of this mountain has more the appearance of a pasture hill- 
side than a mountain above vegetation, its partial covering ol 
Alpine grasses and other plants and shrubs give it a domestic 
and agricultural appearance. The whole south side is covered 
with bristly balsam up within a few rods of the top, and is the 
steepest and longest side, sloping away i}4 miles at the rate o! 
2,000 feet to the mile, to the foot of Panther Gorge. Large 
Dortions ot the south side have been swept off by avalanches 



1/2 The Adirondacks. 

The east is far the roughest part of the mountain. It drops 
easily off the first i,ooo feet, and then takes one final leap of 
1,000 feet into Panther Gorge. On the north side, it drops 
down to the head of the Opalescent Valley, more or less 
broken with precipices and ravines." 

North from Marcy, over beyond a mass of mountain ridges, 
is the cleared fields of North Elba. Turning toward the 
northeast, we look down John's Brook Valley into Keen Val- 
ley. Beyond is seen Lake Champlain and the Green Moun- 
tains of Vermont. East is Haystack and the Gothics. To- 
wards the southeast is the deep valley of Marcy Brook. Be- 
yond is Boreas Mountain, and the mountains that cluster 
about Schroon Lake and Lake George. Away off in the 
southwest is distant Blue Mountain and the Raquette Lake 
region. At our feet lies little Tear of the Clouds, — the high- 
est body of water in the Adirondacks, and the fountain head 
of the great Hudson River, — 4,293 feet above tide. North 
of west is Mount Golden, Mclntyre, and others of less note. 

" I once saw the clearing up of a thunderstorm on Marcy,** 
continues the old man. " There was a tornado sweeping 
over the top of the mountain, and the fog-clouds, broken into 
patches, were running at lightning speed. When one of those 
clouds would strike the mountain all would be shut in with 
fog for perhaps two or three seconds, when it would open, 
giving a view of a dazzling, brilliant orange-tint over the 
whole western sky. This could be enjoyed from two to four 
seconds, when the enveloping fog would come again — to save 
one from going crazy, I suppose. 

"A thunderstorm in the night is an awful sight from the 
summit of Tahawus. I once saw one at near midnight, ap- 
proaching from the west, when it was all below me, and I 
could look on the top of the cloud and see the streaks of light- 
ning darting in every direction. It appeared like a mountain 
of serpents writhing in every conceivable manner. When 



Camp Phelps. 173 

it tkoally reached me, it appeared very natural, with the 
exception the thunder seemed very near by. There are a 
great variety of fog scenes ; I saw one of three-fourths of the 
circle about me, a level ocean of fog and the other quarter 
clear ; it made me think of a big pie with one quarter taken 
out ; another one was of fog driven over Skylight in a bright 
moonlight night, it pitched over the east side like a mammoth 
water-fall, which it was, not of a river but a cloud ; anothei 
majestic sight was the gathering and passing up of what we 
^all a quick south storm ; when I first saw it, it was some forty 
Aiiles distant, coming on at the rate of a mile in two minutes ; 
a massive cloud with the driping curtain of rain reaching 
down to the earth ; as it passed up nearer it threw out some 
ol the most wonderful shades and colors ; in the centre it was 
of a clear gray ; some six to eight miles to the east and west, 
of a bright purple, growing lighter to the extremes, and to 
the east and west softening down to a sunshine hazy light ; 
it passed over to the St. Lawrence lasting near two hours." 




" STORIES. "' 

Camp Phelps, on the upper Ausable, is one of the most 
complete in its appointment and management of any shanty 
in the Adirondacks. The structure is of an elegant design, 
and biiilt of magnificent logs cut and curved artisically with 
knots of various and unique patterns in bas relief. The main 
door is about 2 J by 5 feet, swings outward, and is locked with a 



1 HE ADIRONDACKS. 

ttring; it contains an immense reception room, drawing 
room, private parlor and sleeping rooms en ^utte, with ward- 
robes sticking out all around the sides. The grand dining 
hall is situate out on the lovely lawn, which is quite exten- 
sive, and splendidly furnished with hemlock extensions and 
stumps. This spacious structure is six by ten feet on 
the ground, and between four and five feet high, and is sur- 
mounted by a Yankee roof o{ troughs in two layers, the upper 
covering the crevices in the lower so as to exclude the rain, 
but separated far enough to givQ perfect ventilation. This 
chef ^aeuvre of architecture is first class in every respect, it 
is luxuriously upholstered throughout with spruce boughs, 
in the culinary department is a stupendous range which floods 
the drawing room with light, and, in short, it contains all the 
modem improvements, including hot and cold water, which is 
carried to every part of the establishment in pails. Here we 
gathered, Crawford's party of seven, and ours, ten in all, be- 
side two or three dogs, in a space about six by eight feet 
square, and while the fire snapped and flickered, filling the 
shanty with dancing shadows, stories of hunting and fishing 
adventures were told that all were expected to believe be- 
cause they were personal experiences, although occasionally 
one would have a familiar sort of sound with the exception 
of names and dates. Stories of personal prowess which cul- 
minated in one of a man who could pick up a two barrel iron 
kettle by the edge with his teeth, and the assertion by another 
that he knew a man who could perform the same feat sitting 
in the kettle himself when he lifted it, which was making light 
of serious subjects, and so Phelps told his bear story, how 
one day near the Boreas, he saw a big bear coming on the run 
after him and he, armed with only a little ax, then when the 
bear got within twenty feet of him he yelled " halt," whicn 
stopped the bear — he couldn't prevaricate, he did it with his 
little hatchet — he didn't feel scared any, only stirred up like, 
but the bear reversed ends and made off as fast as it could 
wabble. Then Uncle Harvey told all about how he killed a 
bear with a pitchfork once, and a moose with a club, after tir- 
ing him out in the deep snow. " But, by gawl, boys," said he, 
•• When Dick Estus tumbled over backward on his snow shoes 



Breakfast. 175 

and the cntter gzve a lunge for him, I thoug ot tt was all up 
with him, but I just gave command to the bovs toi %thim we 
went, and, by gawl, the way we laid it on his old hide was a 
caution, and there lay Dick, square on his back, looking up, 
thinkin' that every minute was his last, and, by gawl» I just 
managed to get a lick at the critter that fetched him just as he 
was standin' over Dick so." and the old hunter assumed a posi- 
tion, indicative of an enraged moose preparing to come down on 
an unfortunate little chap on his back in the snow, who couldn't 
turn over on account of his snow-shoes. Thus each had 
their stories to tell until time to turn in, when four of the 
party went across the pond to another camp, leaving six of us 
to occupy a space six feet long by six feet wide, and where we 
slept on edge, like a box of well-packed sardines, until day- 
light, when each man got up and cut a chunk of venison, salt 
pork or bacon as taste dictated, and each man for himselt 
waltzed around that stove in the six by ten shanty until he 
had warmed it through enough to suit, or disguising pieces ot 
raw material in an outside coating of bread, proceeded to 
stow it away with that appearance of keen enjoyment dis- 
played by the average boy in taking a pill ; then a part rushed 
away to put out the dogs, others to the various runways. 
The old man gave his attention to some sort of a stew, 
which, as he had made no calculations on staying out all 
night, and the camp supplies had run low in the particular 
materials needed, was partially a failure ; the professor, with 
a home-sick sort of expression on his face, was picking away 
it an ancient piece of bacon, while an enthusiastic individual 
who had wallowed in an ecstacy of imaginative bliss, theoreti- 
cally, over venison stake, broiled at the blazing camp fire, 
was engaged in preparing a savory strip of the same, which 
as he forgot to apply salt, and got hold of a piece just 
moderately warm — not cooked, at the first bite, roused a rebel- 
lious feeling within him, and he felt the full force of those 
saddest of all words, "it might have been (done,)" but it was 
not ordained to be, and at last, as his mind kept running 
on accounts of 8hip>wrecked people who had to eat each 
other or starve, and cannibalism seemed imminent, one of 
kh9 guides came ia like a dove bringing — not the olive 



5/6 



The Adirondacks. 



branch exactly — but a bag of oat-meal, which he made into 
pan-cakes, and those pan-cakes went to our hearts and 
stomachs like the blissful ecstacy of love's young dream. We 
were saved ! And while we ate he baked and brought them 
forward and the more we ate the happier he seemed to feel 
about it, none of your little patty-cakes, but great big fellows 
the size of the frying pan,light as sea foam almost, and making, 
with maple sugar, a breakfast, the which when suggested, 
makes my mouth water to this day. It was but a little act of 
simple courtesy, offered, perhaps, without a thought of return ; 
but it showed the willing disposition, and those pan-cakes 
touched a chord in the breast of one individual at least that 
will vibrate for all time, and if ever permitted to go there 
again he will ask for nothing better or if reports be true, a 
truer guide than Theo. White of Keene Flats, author of those 
glorious pan-cakes. 

After breakfast Phelps took us up the inlet, with its dark 
borders of balsam and tamarack, to the Elk Lake trail, where, 

1 234 5678 9 




THE GREAT PEAKS FROM THE SOUTH. 

1 2 Allen ; 3 Skylights ; 4 Marcy ; 5 Panther Gorge ; 6 Haystack 

7 Basin ; 8 Saddleback ; 9 Gothic. 

bidding him a regretful adieu (for we had become attached to 
the cheery Old Man of the Mountains in our short acquaint- 
ance) we started on our tramp of sixteen miles, out through 
the woods to Root's, fueling that we were nearing friends who 
would be glad to welcome us home ; clearer in thought and 
stronger in body than when we entered ; glad to go back but 
sad at thought of leaving the mountains, over which we saw 
the storm cloud gather, break and roll away, leaving them 
bathed in the loving sunshine, clean, grand, strong and seem- 
ingly eternal, as The Hand that made them. 




CHAPTER XIV. 
Luzerne and Chestertown. 

UZERNE is situated at the junction of the 
Hudson and Sacandaga rivers, twenty-two 
miles north of Saratoga. It is inclosed by 
picturesque, rounded hills, heavily wooded to 
their summits, save here and there a break 
where some ledge looks out on the valley 
below. On the west are the Kayaderosseras mountains, on 
the east the Palmerton range, that has its rise at Lake 
(jeorge, and falls away into the level of Broadway at Sara- 
toga; toward the north they are broken, rocky and pictur- 
esque. These are the outreaching spurs of the Adirondack 
that rest so grandly away to the north, from which the 
liudson comes flowing quietly along until it gathers among 
the great round boulders, then bounds, foaming and spark- 
ling, over the rocks in the exquisite little falls of Luzerne, 
a.ad hastens forward under the bridge and downward to its 
union with the Sacandaga at Ti-se-ran-dOy " the meeting of 
the waters." 

From this down the river to Jessup's I>anding is six 
miles of still water, then sweeps around almost north again. 
At Palmer's Falls it is gathered in a narrow channel, then 
with a multitude of little leaps and breaks, churned and 
beaten into foam by its fall, it rests at the bottom sixty feet 
below. 

Luzerne Lake is a pearl set in emerald, lying at quite 
an elevation above the village proper ; a crystal drop on 
the hill side, kept there by a narrow embankment through 



178 The Adirondacks. 

which the outlet finds its way, and after amusingitself among 
sets of water-wheels, it passes out into the Hudson and to 
the sea. 

The Wayside Inn is just north of the village, facing the 
lake. It has connected with it a number of cottages which 
can be rented for the season, affording altogether accommoda- 
tions for about 200 guests. It is an imposing structure with 
numerous gables, porches, piazzas and balconies. The in- 
terior is in keeping — roomy, rambling, airy ; with pleasant of- 
fice, dining-room and parlor, and with a charming outlook over 
the lake and forest, and the rolling meadow land around. It 
has telegraph station in the office, and an excellent livery 
within call. Guests are transferred to and from all trains free. 
Rates, $3.50 to $4 per day. Open June i8th to October ist. 

E. C. King will manage the Wayside again the coming season. 
Mr. King is energetic, and that he is efficient, is proven by 
the popularity of the house which finds difficulty in providing 
accommodations sufficient for its would-be guests. Those de- 
siring rooms during July or August will do well to make ap- 
plication in advance, as the Wayside is the only hotel of in- 
terest left to the summer visitor in this section. 

Rockwell's Hotel, famous for years under the management 
of the founder, George Rockwell and his son George H. 
Rockwell, and notable as the school from which H. J. Rock- 
well, of the Hotel Kenmore, Albany, and C. L. Rockwell, of 
the Rockwell House, Glens falls, graduated — burnt to the 
ground May iSth, 1891, and now the River View House, that 
stood just south of Rockwell's, has gone the way of hotels 
with defective flues. 

There are many beautiful drives around Luzerne. One es- 
pecially lovely one, is down along the east shore of the river, 
to Jessup's Landing. Another, to which a full day should be 
given, is to Lake George, and still another, over the mountain 
to Glens Falls. 



Chestertown. 



1 79 



Luzerne is on the old Indian trail from the great villages 
of the Mohawks to the head of Lake George. Here King 
Hendrick and his braves encamped when on their way to join 
Johnson at the lake in 1775. Above, the road runs along the 
river, at times crowded 
close against its brink as 
the valley narrows down 
and the mountains grow 
more abrupt and pre- 
cipitous. 

Riverside is 50 miles 
from Saratoga. Here 
the cars are left for 
Chestertown and Scroon Lake, otherwise 
there is little to interest, save the graceful 
suspension bridge thrown across here from 
shore to shore. 

Chestertown is a thriving little village 
six miles east of Riverside. Its environ- 
ment is picturesque, with lakes and valleys 
and rolling hills that rise in places into considerable moun- 
tains. 

The Chester House is on high ground in the village. It 
is three stories high, with pleasant piazzas, and is fronted by 
a nice grove of maples. It is popular under the management 
of Harry S. Downs, who, with considerable experience in the 
business, adds a pleasant presence, an obliging disposition, 
and youthful zeal and enterprise. This house will care for 
about 150 guests. Rates, $2 per day; $10 to $12 per week. 

The roads about are specially picturesque and varied and 
the popular amusements are riding and driving. The lakes 
and small ponds near by afford superior bass fishing, and 
partridges and the smaller game are found in their season 
abundantly in the adjace»t woods. 




CHAPTER XVII. 




SCHROON I.AKE. 

CHROON LAKE is undoubtedly one of the 

most popular semi-wilderness resorts in the 

• 
country ; it is surrounded on all sides by m cun- 

^ins, not high, but wild and rugged, and 
broken into curious fragmentary masses, grow- 
ing smoother as you approach the north end. 
It is nearly ten miles in length, perhaps two wide, and 
divided in two nearly equal portions at the narrows. It 
receives the waters of Paradox and other lakes and streams 
at the north and empties through Schroon river into the 
Hudson at Thurman. The shores are low, receding in 
gentle slopes for a distance, then rise up into the mountains 
surrounding it. Near the southern extremity is Pottersville : 
a,t the north the village of Schroon Lake. It is reached 
usually by the Adirondack Railroad, from Saratoga to 
l^iverside, then by stage to the outlet, and by steamer to 
the village at its head. Distance from Saratoga, 65 miles ; 
fire, $3.75. 

The Leavitt Stage Line, between Riverside and Schroon 
Lake, is not unworthy of special notice, the ride affording d 
pleasant change from the cars, giving variety, without con 
tinning long enough to become wearisome, followed by the 
halt for dinner, and the race to the steamboat in the open 
wagons. The four-horse coaches used here are of the well- 
known Concord build. The stock is first-class, and the 
drivers are of the most reliable, Eugene Leavitt, proprietor 
of the line, being considered one of tne best whips in the 



I 



SCHROON LaK^. 



l8l 



country. Six-horse, tally-ho stages run to the main trains, 
and lighter wagons of this line connect morning and evening, 
with the "sleeper" at Riverside. 

PoTTERSViLLE HoTEL is six miles from Riverside. It is 
the regular dining place for passengers going or coming, and 

furnishes a wholesome 
and most substantial 
dinner. John B. Wells, 
for sometime its 
manager, is now owner 
and proprietor, having 
secured this property by 
purchase. Mr. Wells is 
a young man, full of 
energy, and brings to 
the business experience of value 
from the Wells House on Schroon 
Lake. The house is comfortably 
furnished, and affords pleasant ac- 
commodations to those who may 
prefer this to the northern ex- 
tremity of the lake. Trout Brook, 
running close by the house, affords 
very good sport, while river and lake fishing-ground is easily 
reached. At the northwest the country is extremely wild. 
Rates for board are $2 per day ; $7 to $10 per week. 

The Steamboat Landing is at tlie outlet of Schroon Lake, 
something less than a mile from Pottersville. Here the 
"Effingham," Captain Sam Russell, waits the coming stage. 
The sail through Schroon Lake is delightful, and not so long 
continued as to become tedious. Fare 75 cents. 

Adirondack: is a hamlet on the east, four miles from the 
outlet. 




1 82 The Adirondacks. 

As the little steamer swings slowly around and starts away 
on her nine mile trip through the lake we see that the moun- 
tains are all around, and, although other lake gems may have 
a grander setting, there are few with greater variety and none 
with lovelier shores. On the southwest are the great rough 
mountain ribs and knobs that gather around Pottersville ; to- 
ward the north they soften down for some distance ; then be- 
yond we see the sharp outlines of the Blue Ridge, and catch 
glimpses of Mount Dix, the Dial and the numberless, name 
less peaks that cluster around Tahawus — the cloud splitter — 
seen at one point, faint and blue with distance. 

Adirondack is on the east side, four miles from the outlet, 
quite a stirring little place, fragrant with the odorous smell of 
tanbark and popular with a good class of summer visitors. 

Watch Rock Hotel is just beyond the northern border 
of the little village in a luxuriant grove that extends towards 
the north along the lake and backward to the mountains. Its 
environment bespeak thrift and enterprise that has placed 
it on a par with the leading hotels of the Adirondacks. It has 
connected with it several cottages, some of them occupied by 
their owners, while others form a part — and a very delightful 
part — of the hotel accommodations. The table is excellent 
and the general character of the house is nice and wholesome 
with a suggestion of exclusiveness that is rather attractive 
than otherwise. Accommodations are offered for 125 guests. 
Rates $2.00 per day; $14.00 to $18.00 per week. Open 
from June ist to October. George Cecil, proprietor. 

Mr. Cecil has traveled extensively, and appreciating the 
requirements of the many sided public has applied his knowl- 
edge to the business with credit to the house and the advan- 
tage of its guests. 

Steamers connect at the foot of the lake with stages for 
the railroad. Fare, 50 cents. 

The Taylor House and Cottages are on Lake View 
Point, nearly opposite Adirondack. In addition to the main 



ScHROON Lake. 183 

building used as a general dining-room, parlor and offices, 
there are fifteen or more cottages of various forms and sizes 
scattered among the trees and presenting altogether a very 
attractive picture. Capacity of all about 175. The house 
and grounds are lighted by electricity. The accommodations 
and fare are excellent. Rates from 14.00 to 21.00 per week; 
$2.50 to $3.00 per day, C. F. Taylor & Son, proprietors. 
P. O., Taylor*s-on-Schroon, Warren Co., N. Y. The steam- 
boat lands on all trips to and from the outlet. Fare, 50 cents. 

Ripe experience and youthful energy are united in the 
management here and to the untiring devotion of the senior 
member of the firm in earlier days is due perhaps more than 
to any other man living, the impetus that set Schroon Lake 
on its high road to popularity as a summer resort. Now no 
one envies " Charlie" the success that has crowned his later 
ventures. 

Schroon Lake we have spoken of in general. Schroon 
Lake in particular means the collection of little houses and 



^^^ ffj?.tf == ■ — ■ — — '■ ^ = ^ "^ 



12 3 4 5 

SCHROciN LAKE VILLAGE FROM SOUTH. 

1 Dock; 2 Ondawa House ; 3 Lake House ; 4 Windsor ; 5 Leland House. 

big hotels at its head. The little village is, however, worthy 
of the best name on record, if beauty of location and general 
appearance entitles one to such. The main street through 
which the road runs to the north is a fine shaded avenue, the 
land sloping down to the edge of the lake, displaying the 
whole in a very pretty manner. It is a thoroughly wide awake 
town, showing a degree of enterprise that many larger places 
might well be proud of; daily mails are maintained throughout 
the year ; the telegraph brings it in direct communication with 
the great cities. The churches are good — although Schroon 



ScHROON Lake. 

Lake doesn't rely much on its churches. The hotel accom- 
modations are first-class, while the enterprise of their propri- 
etors, together with the fine natural attractions of the place, 
has earned for this a world-wide reputation, standing second 
only to Lake George — ahead of it, even, with those who de- 
light to point the rifle or cast the fly. The society here is of 
a refined class, scarcely any of the rowdy element finding its 
way in, for the bright skies, the waving fields, the far-reaching 
forests, and the grand freedom of the mountains, possess little 
that is congenial to the tastes of such. 

The Grove Point House is about a half-mile south of 
the village, and the steamboat lands here on its regular trips. 
The house is attractive of itself, and is picturesque in its sur 
roundings. It prospers because its manager is thorough, en- 
ergetic, and withal, obliging. It contains many of the con- 
veniences and appliances of the modern hotel, including elec- 
tric bells. Accommodations are here ofl"ered for about 75 
guests. Rates, $2 per day; $8 to $12 per week. An illus- 
trated circular, giving particulars, will be sent on application. 
Captain W. A. Mackenzie, 

As we approach the village, the most prominent objects are 
the hotels — the Leland House, on the high ground at the 
right ; the Schroon Lake House, near the water's edge ; over 
this, the Windsor House, and the Ondawa, among the trees 
at the left of the Lake House. 

The Leland House is the leading hotel of Schroon Lake. 
From its commanding position it overlooks the lake in three 
directions — south, east, and north, and, on the west, the 
village and the hills beyond. On its south front is a broad, 
high piazza, double at the ends; and, in front of this, a grand 
fort-coachare — a pleasant and duly appreciated feature of a 
sunny day. An observatory on the top of the building is 107 
feet above the lake, and gives a view of rare beauty and con- 
siderable extent, showing the full reach of the lake at the 
south, and a charming picture of Schroon Valley toward the 



ScHROON Lake. 

north. The grounds are about five acres in extent — a grassy 
lawn, shaded by young trees and provided with modest little 
summer houses. Two large cottages, connected with the 
main building by an extension of the double piazzas at either 
end, afford retired quarters for those who may prefer such to 
the more public rooms in the hotel proper. Within the office 
will be found Western Union Telegraph connections, news 
and fancy-goods stand. This is one of the few hotels where 
the main office is made the pleasant gathering-place of the 
lady guests. It was built in 1872 and at once became popu- 
lar. It was enlarged in 1875 and again in 1881, and still 
again in 1888, by the addition of a large wing to give a 
children's dining room 12 by 30 feet, and 30 new sleeping 
rooms. The grand dining room has also been enlarged giving 
it a seating capacity of 300, and a new kitchen built and fur- 
nished with the modern appliances. The house is nicely,even 
richly furnished, the public rooms attractive and cozy, the 
sleeping apartments provided with the best of beds, and their 
appointments throughout in good taste. The sanitary con- 
ditions here are believed to be perfect — the land, sloping off 
in all directions, rendering the question of drainage a simple 
one. The table is superior, and the service all that can be de- 
sired — in short, the Leland House is an exceptionally good 
" all around " house. The proprietors are Messrs. L. R. & 
E. D. Locks, accomplished hotel men both, with plenty of ex- 
perience, energy, and many of the other requisites that go to 
mlike up the successful landlord. This house is open from 
June 15th to October ist.. Capacity, 250. Rates, $3 to 
$3.50 per day, $12 to $25 per week. 

The Lake House stands nearest to the steamboat landing 
and will accommodate about 100 guests. Rates, $2.50 per 
day, $10. 50 to $14.00 per week. Open from June 20 to October 
I St. E. E. Riddell, formerly of the Rid dell House, Luzerne, 
proprietor. The main building is 100 feet front, with a piazza 
extending along its entire length. It is generous in all its 



The Adirondacks. 187 

proportions. A pleasant feature of the house — hibernically 
speaking -^ is its open platform outside, overhanging the lake 
shore, and itself overshadowed by wide-spread trees, affording 
one of the most delightful resting places imaginable of a sultry 
afternoon or evening. As conducted by Mr. Riddell the hotel 
is spoken of in the highest terms by guests. A generous 
poUcy marks the management and can not fail to please and 
bring deserved profit. 

The Ondawa is west of the Lake House, will provide for 
too people. Board costs from $2.00 to $2.50 per day; $10 
tp $14 per week. Open June ist. O'Connor Brothers, pro- 
prietors. The Windsor Hotel, west of the Leland House, has 
capacity for about 60 guests. C. L. Hunter, proprietor. 
Rates unknown. The* Leland Cottage, on Main street, has 
accommodations for aboirt 25. Rates, from $6.00 to $9.00 
per week. J.. M. Leland, proprietor. The Prospect House, 
also on the main street of the village, will provide for 30 guests 
at about $9 to $12 per week. J. A. Pitkin & Brother, pro- 
prietors. 

The Arlington Cottage, just north of the village, is a pleas- 
ant boarding house, nicely kept, providing for 30 guests. 
Rates, $2 per day ; $8 to $10 per week. C. C. Whitney, pro- 
prietor. 

' Stages run mornings from Scrobn Lake to Hammondville, 
n miles distant, daily. Fare, $1.50. Connection is made 
over the Crown Point Iron Co.'s railroad, 
with afternoon train an the Delaware and 
Hudson Railroad, north and south. 

Paradox Lake is four miles north of 
Scroon. It is four miles long, measured 
east and west. At its west end the shores are low and smooth ; 
at the east, abrupt and rugged. • Paradox House, on the south 
side of the Lake, two miles from its outlet, is quite noted for 
trout dinners. 

Root's Hotel is nine miles north of Scroon Lake, 27 
east of Newcomb, 23 south of Elizabethtown, and 17 west of 





VIBWS ON THB ADIRONDACK RAILWAY. 



North Creek. 189 

Port Henry. This house had an excellent reputation once 
but at present the accommodations and fare are not such as to 
attract the average summer visitor. 

Toward the west, between the mountain whose jagged sides 
come down to the edge of the valley, runs the road to the 
Boreas region, Newcome, and Long Lake. 

Elk Lake is reached by leaving this road five miles east of 
Root's, and proceeding northward thence, by a good road, five 
miles further. From this point the trail leads over Boreas 
Mountain to the head of Upper Au Sable Lake, about six 
miles distant, for which see page 169. 

North from Root's stretches the beautiful valley of the 
Schroon, until the gradually approaching mountains on either 
side come together at Deadwater, where the waters of the 
Schroon River, here a mere brook, are gathered and begin 
their winding way southward. 

At Euba Mills, 13 miles north of Root's, roads diverge — 
the one bearing toward the right leading down through Pleas- 
ant Valley, to Elizabethtown, 10 miles; the other toward the 
left, upward through Chapel Pond Gorge to Keen Valley, 
about six miles distant. For these points, see pages 148 and 

152 respectively. 

******* 

North Creek is the terminus of the Adirondack Railroad, 
and the point of departure for Newcomb, the Adirondack 
Iron Works, via Minerva, and for Blue Mountain and 
Raquette Lakes. 

The American, a short distance from the depot, is the best 
hotel at North Creek, and provides good, substantial fare at 
the very reasonable rate of $6 to $10 per week; transient 
guests, $2 per day. John Mclnerny, proprietor. Mr. Mcln- 
erny will also furnish horses and light or heavy carriages, for 
interior places, at reasonable prices. Parties for Aiden Lair, 
Newcomb Lakes, or the section around the Adirondack 
Iron Works, not reached by daily stage, will find it advisable 
to make arrangements for conveyances at this point. 
By leaving in the morning passengers can also con- 



190 The Adirondacks. 

nect at Bine Mountain Lake with steamer for Raquette Lake, 
— all landings — and with stage for Long Lake. Stage leaving 
on arrival of noon train reaches Blue Mountain Lake for sup- 
per. Stages, fare, North Creek to Blue Mountain Lake, $3. 
Patent canopy-top buckboards, may be had by paying an ad- 
ditional sum, for which apply to the stage agent at either end 
of the route, personally or by mail or telegraph. 

The North River Hotel is five miles from North Creek. 
W. IT. Roblee, proprietor. This is the regular dining place 
for all passengers over this road in going in or coming out of the 
woods, and provides a meal seldom equalled in its wholesome- 
ness and hunger-satisfying nature. Stages run as far as this 
point, on arrival of the evening train from the south, bringing 
such as may desire to remain over and be fortified with a 
night's rest and one or more of mine host Roblee's excellent 
meals for the longer ride of the morrow, and it is recom- 
mended that those not over robust break the journey here, 
taking buckboards for the interior in the morning. A day or 
more can be spent here to advantage, either for rest or sport. 
The surrounding country affords excellent fishing and the 
smaller game, and is within easy walking distance of points 
where the larger kinds may be found. The house will provide 
for 40 guests. Rates, $2.50 per day; $10 to $15 per week; 
meals, 75 cents. Connection with the Western Union Tele- 
graph is made at this point. 

Thirteenth Lake is four miles west, and is reached over 
a very good road. It is about three miles in length by half mile 
wide, and 1,952 feet above tide. It affords excellent fishing, 
and the wild country around it is noted hunting ground. 

A short distance above North River we climb up through a 
high notch at the west, rising a thousand feet in something 
less than four miles, then descending gradually, cross a stretch 
of burnt land to Indian River. 

The Indian River Hotel, with capacity for 40, is at the 
crossing, 11 miles from North River. 



Indian Lake. 191 

The Seven Chain Lakes are at the north, about seven 
miles distant, and reached over an indifferent road. Bonney's 
little hotel is on the third lake, which is the largest of the 
group, being about two miles in length. From the fifth lake 
a land-and-water route leads north to Newcomb, something 
over ten miles distance. 

Indian Lake (P. O.) is one mile west of Indian River. A 
few houses at intervals along the road, and a very comfortable 
looking hotel called the Ordway house, with stores, and a 
post-office, constitute the village. 

Indian Lake (that is the lake proper), is about two miles 
south of the village. The original lake was about three miles 
long, but its overflow sets back in times of high-water, increas- 
ing its length to something more than twelve miles. 

Lewey Lake is twelve miles south of Indian Lake Village. 
The overflow of Indian Lake at times reaches back to the falls 
at outlet of Lewey Lake. In low water the river between the 
two is navigable, with the exception of a short carry around 
the falls above mentioned. A Httle hotel at the head of 
Lewey Lake is kept by J. McCormick. Will accommodate 
about 40. P. O., Indian Lake. 

Cedar Lakes are reached by a rough eight-mile trail from 
this point west, or by road from Lake Pleasant, or via Cedar 
River route, from the Blue Mountain Lake road. 

The West Canada Lakes, belonging to another system, 
and discharging into the Mohawk, may be reached from the 
Cedar Lakes by short carries. 

Lake Pleasant can be visited best via the Fonda, Johns- 
town and Gloversville railroad to Northville, thence by stage 
to Sageville. Sacandaga Park, at the terminus'of the railroad, 
one-fourth mile from Northville, has a commodious and well 
kept hotel, and a number of handsome summer cottages be- 
longing to private parties. 

Sageville, the county seat of Hamilton County, is a scat- 
tered village or 40 or 50 families, centered at the southwestern 



192 The Adirondacks. 

extremity of Lake Pleasant, and between it and Round Lake. 

The Lake Pleasant Inn, formerly kept by George A- 
McCoy, is now under the proprietorship of J. D. Morley. 
The amount of energy infused into the business under the 
new management bids fair to make it one of the noted resorts 
of the wilderness. Improvements have been made, and new 
furniture added. Accommodations are now offered for 60 
guests. Board $2.00 per day; $12.00 to $15.00 per week 
with special rates for early and late visitors. Open all the 
year. Telegraph and Post Office m the house. Northville 
stage runs daily connecting with trains. Fare $2.00. Ar- 
rangements may be made for special conveyance by address- 
ing the manager of the house. Guides and necessaries for 
hunting and fishing can be secured here, and livery rigs for 
land excursions. Elery Schoolcraft, Manager. P. O. address, 
Sageville, N. Y. 

" Kun-Ja-Muck," formerly Call's Hotel, under the manage- 
ment of Mrs. Anna A. McMartin will provide for 50 guests. 

Lake Pleasant is about four miles long. At the north- 
western extremity of the lake is the Sturgess House. 

PiSECo Lake is about six miles southwest of Sageville, and 
affords good fishing. 

Cedar River is 20 miles from North Creek. From this 
point in to Blue Mountain Lake, 10 miles, the road is through 
almost continuous forest save the occasional opening made by 
some stalwart settler, and the to-be-expected *' Half-way " 
house where the horses are watered and allowed to get their 
breath while the expectant landlord stands invitingly ready to 
serve the passengers with stronger liquid. Note in passing 
the devastation caused by the cyclone of '8S. 

Blue Mountain Lake is fairly in the Great North Woods. 
It is the opening of communication by boat with the magnifi- 
cent system of lakes and streams which cover so large a por- 
tion of the Adirondack wilderness. It rests 1,800 feet above 
tide, is an irregular oval in shape, extends nearly three miles 



Blue Mountain Lake. 193 

its longest way, and empties at the west, through Eagle and 
Utowana lakes into Raquette Lake. 

Blue Mountain Lake House is oh the east shore of the 
deep bay which first appears as we approach from North 
Creek. The first hotel at Blue Mountain Lake was built here 
in 1874, by Dr. G. R. Martine, of Glen Falls, N. Y., to whose 
energy and far-sightedness much credit is due for the initiatory 
in opening up this now popular gateway into the Adirondacks, 
and for whose unswerving belief in the valuable curative 
properties of this high mountain region, many have reason to 
feel grateful. The old house was burnt to the ground in 
1886 ; but, with the same energy which has characterized the 
management in all its undertakings, arrangements were imme- 
diately made for its rebuilding on the old site. This new 
house is spacious and attractive. The main part is four 
stories high and 150 feet long, with fine, broad piazza, facing 
the lake, and a rear extension, almost as large as the main 
building; giving, with the cottages, accommodations for over 
300 guests. It stands on an elevation, overlooking a grove of 
native trees, through which paths lead down to the sandy 
beach, from which the steamboat starts on its daily trips down 
the lake. Ten outlying cottages, among the trees, afford very 
desirable quarters for those who may prefer apartments re- 
moved from the stir and bustle of a great hotel. Telegraph 
office connecting with the Western Union system, and stage 
and steamboat ticket offices, are in the hotel. Stateroom and 
sleeping car berths can be secured here. Board, $3 per day, 
with special rates for the week or season, according to rooms 
and accommodations. John G. Holland, proprietor. 

Mr. Holland is the pioneer hotel man of this section. He 
is genial, accommodating, and popular, winning the esteem of 
his guests ; so that those who have once enjoyed his hospi- 
tality are generally his warm advocates thereafter. With him 
the old house had a patronage greater, perhaps, according to 
its capacity, than any other one in the wilderness, and under 
him the new one must likewise prosper. 



Blue Mountain Lake. 195 

The Blue Mountain House is on the east side of the lake 
about a mile north of the Lake House. It stands on a 
spur of Blue Mountain, 200 feet above the water, to which 
the surface of the ground drops sharply. The view is one of 
the loveliest imaginable, revealing the lake in its entirety with 
the island studded plain at our feet, the receding clusters of 
islands, the sinuous shores leading away to the outlet, and 
over beyond it the lengthened reach of Eagle Lake, with a 
glimpse of Utowana and the verdant slopes that compass 
about the shores of queenly Raquette. A path leads down 
through the thick forest to where a fleet of dainty Adirondack 
boats lie snugly in boat house, or at rest on the sandy beach. 
Accommodations are provided for about 80 guests in the 
main building and adjoining cottages. The fare is whole- 
some, abundant and cleanly. Stage fare to North Creek $3. 
A free carriage conveys guests to and from the Lake House, 
to connect with the stage, and stages pass the house daily for 
Long Lake, eight miles distant. (For long lake see page 
113.) Rates are $2.00 to $2.50 per day ; $10 to $15 per 
week. Open all the year. Telegraph office in the house. 

Mr. Tyler M. Merwin, founder and original proprietor, 
again assumes management of the house and welcomes old 
friends or new, very pleasantly and entertainingly. 

The Prospect House, built in 1881, is the most imposing 
perhaps of Adirondack hotek. It will accommodate about 
500 guests. Price of board $3 and upwards per day; $18 
and upwards per week. Open May loth to October. George 
W. Tunniclift", manager. During the winter, guests are en- 
tertained in a large cottage under the same management. 
The Prospect House is notable as the only Adirondack house 
employing colored waiters. The entertainment is first class. 
There are two or three other houses here, cheaper, and prin- 
cipally with a local patronage. Stage fare. Prospect House 
stage, to North Creek $3 ; buckboards carrying one person 
$10; two persons $11; three or more persons $4 each ; two 
children under 1 2 occupying one seat same as one adult. 



196 The Adirondacks. 

The Blue Mountain and Raquette Lake line steamers are 
of light draft, that they may pass easily through the shallow 
streams connecting the lakes. One of these boats leaves the 
hotel docks morning and afternoon, connects at Marion River 
Carry with steamer for Raquette Lake landings. They are 
thoroughly equipped and adapted to the particular needs of 
the traffic, and the service, while working on systematized 
lines with clock-like regularily, is not obtrusively formal and 
fits in admirably with the surrounding conditions. The ex- 
cursion is one of the most delightful ones of the wilderness — 
a source of continued surprise and enjoyment, introducing as 
it were, the traveler to the wild woods and lakes in the mild- 
est manner possible, and giving him just a suggestion of the 
difficulties of portage between waters that he will find later on. 
Extra boats are subject to charter and afford interesting 
means of exploring the nooks and by-ways of lakes and tribu- 
tary streams. J. G. Thompson, superintendent. The line 
belongs to W. W. Durant, ex-President of the Adirondack 
Railroad, and owner of a number of townships around this 
and Raquette lakes. 

As we pass out into the open lake leaving the Lake House, 
Blue Mountain rises in graceful outline behind us. On its 
western slope, high above the water, are the Mountain House 
and cottages ; nearer is Thatcher's Island, the property of ex- 
Mayor Thatcher, of Albany, with the cottage at its end. On 
the point projecting from the south shore, near the outlet, is 
the attractive summer place of Colonel Duryea, of New York* 

Memorial Bridge, rustic in design, and resting on heavy 
stone piers, spans the outlet of the lake, its expensive char- 
acter hardly veiled as yet by the vines that are designed in 
time to cover its massive approaches. A bronze tablet let 
into the masonry on one side bears the following inscription : 
" Pioneer Bridge. In memory of Dr. Thomas Clark Durant, 
Projector, Builder, Vice-President and General Manager of 
the first trans-continental railway. The Union Pacific, Presi- 
dent and builder of the Adirondack Railway. Erected by his 
son William West Durant, Anno Domini 1891." 



Eagle Lake. 197 

Passing through the outlet with slackened speed — respond- 
ing, perhaps to the request of the Commodore to climb out 
forward to get her stern up away off from the bottom, 
we round the short bends and out into the waters of Eagle 
Lake. 

Eagle Lake is about one mile long, with low, wooded 
shores, except on the north side, where in a clearing stands 
the old log house known as the " Eagle's Nest," where Ned 
Buntline came years ago, and where now under the trees lies 
the bride he brought and buried there. 

A somewhat longer stream than the one we have just left 
leads through drowned lands, from Eagle into Utowana Lake 
which is about two miles long, narrow and straight, running 
away toward the west. Passing into its outlet the landing is 
soon reached where stands a rustic waiting-room and the dam, 
which has raised the water, making navigable the streams 
back into Blue Mountain lakes. From this landing a road 
leads to the head of navigation, on the Marion River, a half- 
mile distant. You have noticed, perhaps, that the whistle was 
blown some ways back, and in response, as we approach, a 
one-horse wagon, with a rigging something like a hay-rack, 
makes its appearance. Into this the baggage is tumbled, the 
boats tied on (if any are there to be carried), and the weaker 
members of the party, or those who may prefer to ride, 
take iheir places. Few do care to ride, however, for this 
carry is simply an excellent road through the woods, resemb- 
ling in no respect the slippery carries of the back country. At 
its west end, we find another steamer, somewhat larger 
than the one we have just left but belonging to the same 
family, as you will conclude from its jaw-breaking Indian 
name, which is considered the proper thing. There is a 
steam mill here doing a good business in the preparation of 
the coarser lumber used in building in this section, and a large 
boarding house that will on occasion be found a welcome 
stopping place at night. 

The Marion River, is one of the crookedest rivers in 
the whole world. It flows sluggishly along its reedy 



198 The Adirondacks. 

shores, wandering back and forth between the low hills, 
in a succession of loops, that makes the way traversed, 
which is about two miles in a straight line, double that dis- 
tance before open water is reached. This is the largest feeder 
of the Raquette, and enters it through a gradually widening 
estuary, beyond which is seen the islands and the broad lake. 

How different now from the days when the Professor and I 
passed through in 1873 ! Then it boasted of but one resi- 
dent, and he a squatter. (There are squatters there now, but 
they come in state and are a credit to the section.) Now its 
shores are teeming with life. A fibre from the throbbing 
mass of travel has pierced the depths. Comfortable hotels 
have sprung into sudden and thrifty existence to meet the re- 
quirements of the season, aad the shrill whistle of the coming 
steamer calls forth joyous crowds for their daily budget of news 
from the outer world. 

Raquette Lake has a Post Office. It is on Long Point, 
at the left as we emerge from Marion River and pass out in the 
gradual broadening lake. Mail addressed to Raquette Lake 
is delivered here, unless, as is customary, each separate hotel, 
camp and cottage has furnished its individual mail-bag which 
the accommodating steamboat captain gathers and delivers 
daily. It has a telegraph office also in the building with the 
post-office — a bit of enterprise on the part of Mr. Durant. 

" The Hemlocks/' formerly known as Raquette Lake 
Hotel, is just a little beyond the post-office. This house has 
lately been thoroughly renovated and refurnished. In addition 
to the main building, are the cottages on 'either side, the one 
formerly occupied by Madam Gerster at the east, and the 
Cotterell cottage on the west. An unsuspected clearing back 
in the woods, now under a high state of cultivation, will sup- 
ply fresh vegetables during the season. Capacity all told for 
about 60 guests. Open July i to October. Price of board, 
$3 per day, $17.50 to $25 per week. 

"The Antlers" on Constable Point, in plain sight, al- 
most due west as the steamer leaves the mouth of the Marion 



Raquette Lake. 199 

River is a choice place. The location is a delightful one, and 
commands an extensive view of the lake north and south, as 
well as into this deep bay from which the approach is made. 
It is a hotel on the colonization plan — a collection of camp- 
cottages, which may be rented at room rates, and a larger, 
central building, containing the general office, dining-room, 
and public rooms, the idea being a collection of camps in 
which guests shall have all the privacy of their own homes, 
relieved from the annoying but quite necessary details of the 
preparation of their daily food. This plan of separate build- 
ings of one or two rooms each has proved a success here. It 
gives the temporary proprietor of each a sense of independ- 
ence and ownershiff that is very pleasant, resulting in each 
structure taking upon itself a degree of individuality and 
character according to the taste and disposition of its occu- 
pants, interesting to observe. Provisions are also made to 
entertain transient guests here on the same general plan. Ac- 
commodations are offered for about 75. Open May ist. 
Rates, $3.00 per day ; $17.50 to $25 per week. Special rates 
for the season. Boats, guides, camp supplies and fishing 
necessaries can be had here. The steamboat stops here about 
an hour and a half to allow time for dinner. 

The open camp, a pleasant feature of the Adirondacks, is 
shown here to great advantage. Here, at night, where the 
logs piled high and blazing, flood the interior with pleasant 
warmth, thawing the most crusty into genial friendliness, 
gather the minister, the author, the playwright, the musician, 
and even the haughty broker ; to melt and become better ac- 
quainted in an evening than ordinarily by a whole season's 
intercourse in hotel parlor. 

The Hemlocks and Antlers are both under the management 
of C. H. Bennett, builder and proprietor of the Antlers. Mr. 
Bennett is genial, attentive and obliging and has made many 
friends. His executive ability is considerable and his success 
as a hotel keeper beyond question. The two places, con- 
trasting very strongly as they do, offer a choice of extremes 



200 The Adirondacks. 

pleasant to contemplate, the " Hemlocks " full of shadows 
suggestive of comfort in the warmest of weather, the " Antlers " 
flooded with light and sunshme, offermg healthful warmth to 
the delicate on whom the winds may not blow too rudely. 
Each place has its special attractions and in common are noted 
for excellence of table. 

A road will be opened from this point to Raquette Lake 
Station on the A. & St. L. R. R., about 12 miles west, and 
stages will run to connect with trains. It is not certain, how- 
ever, that this road will be in operation this summer, but it is 
proposed when trains begin running to Old Forge to run a 
line of row-boats and carry- wagons for luggage, to connect with 
the Fulton Chain steamer at the head of Forth Lake, making 
a daily line to and from Old Forge. Through fare will be 
about $3.00. 

Brightsideon-Raquette stands among the trees on the 
south side of Indian Point under ** The Crags." The main 
building is finished in native woods with a degree of elegance 
that bespeaks the artistic feeling of ihe builder who is also the 
proprietor. It is nicely furnished throughout. The accommo- 
dations offered are sufficient for about 20 guests. Rates, $2 
to $2.50 per day; $12 to $18 per week. Open may to No- 
vember. J. O. A. Bryere, proprietor, Mr. Bryere is noted for 
artistic skill in the manufacture of rustic furniture. His serviees 
in this particular line are at a premium in the woods and many 
camps hereabout show beautiful specimens of his skill. 

Rush Point Camp, near South Inlet, kept by honest, big 
hearted Jo. Whitney, accommodates 10. Uncle Jo's flowers 
are alone worth going there to see. 

Blanchard's Wigwam, on Green Point, west of Camp Stott, 
C. W. Blanchard, proprietor, offers entertainment for 25 guests. 

Chancey Hathorn, for years a familiar figure here, was drowned 
in the lake November loth of last year. He was well con- 
nected ; an educated man, brilliant, eratic, but — unfortunate. 
He is remembered only with kindest feelings or regret. He 
left no successor and it is doubtful if his " Golden Beach " 
will be open to receive guests again. 



Raquette Lake. 201 

Unique and pretty features of this lake are the two churches, 
one of the Roman Catholic faith, standing among the trees 
near the Post Office, and the other (Episcopalian) on a small 
island south of Osprey Island, where services are conducted 
regularly throughout the summer, the congregation coming by 
steamers and row-boats. The officiating clergyman of the last 
named church occupies the rectory on the island during the 
season. 

The rustic camps of Raquette Lake are elegant affairs, and 
although built of rustic material found ready to the hand, it is 
apparent that twisted cedar, shaggy spruce and silvery birch, 
in their native vestments, were not chosen because they cost 
nothing there. Some of these camps are works of art, and 
filled with dainty bric-a-brac; generally, however, pertaining 
to woodsy things, and in keeping with their native environ- 
ment. The pioneer camp of this section, and one of the 
most artistic in the woods, is " Camp Pine Knot," on South 
Bay. It was commenced in the winter of 1876-7, by its pres- 
ent owner, W. W. Durant, and completed — well, to tell the 
truth, these camps are never completed really, for one of the 
fascinating features of the camp is that it is bound by no rule 
of time or architecture. It expands and blossoms with the 
passmg seasons, and is never exactly the same one year that it 
was the year before, but it is always finished enough for com- 
fort — it is " otetiwi." 

Echo Camp, on Long Point, west of the Raquette Lake 
House, tasteful and artistic, belongs to ex-Gov. Lounsbery, of 
Connecticut. " Camp Otetiwi," (always ready), belonging to 
Dr. A. G. Gerster, of New York, is on the large island west 
of Camp Pine Knot. " Camp Fair View," on Osprey Island, 
belonging to C. W. Durant, of New York, is an excellent speci- 
men of ornate rustic architecture. Deerhurst Camp, on Ken- 
well's Point, belongs to Mr. Wm. Strange, of Paterson, N. J. ; 
the cottage standing on the north side of this point is that of 
Senator McCarthy of Syracuse. Senator Henderson has a 
pleasant camp on the south side of Indian Point. " Camp 



202 The Adirondacks. 

Stott," the summer place of Com. Frank Stott, of Stottville, 
N. Y., is on the long point north of Kenwell's Point. A camp 
belonging to James Tenyck, of Albany, and " Camp Has- 
brouck," are on the north shore near the outlet. 

Happy the favored visitor to one of these camps, and happy 
the owner. The fact cannot be disguised, say what you will, 
we are all children and enjoy playing house ; only, at sixty, 
we need a ten-thousand-dollar lodge in a vast wilderness, when 
at six, a piece of old carpet, stretched over a corner in the rail 
fence, satisfied all our earthly desires. 

Sumner Park is held as a private game and fish preserve 
by the owner of Camp Pine Knot. It consists of township 6 
with portions of township 5 to include the whole of Summer 
Lake and Mohegan Pond, the South Inlet and the southern 
shores of South Bay. It is all under police patrol and the 
public is warned against trespassing under penalty of the law. 
Raquette Lake owes much of its prosperity to Mr. Durant, 
and only the most rabid of communists can question the 
justice — as it is unquestionably his right — of reserving this part, 
forming less than half of his possessions in this section, for his 
personal use. 

The Adirondack & St. Lawrence Railway, Dr. W. 
Seward Webb, President, now under construction, is expected 
to be in service throughout its entire length some time the 
coming season. It extends from Herkimer, on the N. Y. C. 
& H. R. R. R., 80 miles west of Albany, in a northeasterly 
direction, centrally through the lake region of the Adirondacks, 
passing about two miles west of the Fulton Chain to Tupper 
Lake ; thence around the head of Upper Saranac Lake, with 
a branch to the Lower Lake ; thence northerly past Rainbow 
and Loon Lakes to Malone. It is intended to have trains 
running through to Old Forge and on sections north of Tupper 
Lake early in July. Moose River House, 1 1 miles from Port 
Leyden 1 2 miles from Boonville, and two miles from the A. 
& St. L. Station, known as " McKeever." This house has 



Moose River. 203 

been of note for years as the dining place for parties en route 
to the Fulton Chain from the west. It is on ihe border of the 
great wilderness and affords good fishing and hunting for those 
who do not care to penetrate deeper. The house will accommo- 
date about 30 guests. Rates, $2 per day; $7 to $10 per 
week. C. M. Barrett, proprietor. 

Until trains begin running on the new railroad visitors will 
come from the west as of old, via Boonville or Port Leyden to 
Moose River, thence by special conveyance. There is a stage 
of rather uncertain movements running to Moose River, but 
it will be more satisfactory to the traveller to arrange for 
through transportation in advance, which may be done by ad- 
dressing C. M. Barrett, Moose River, or the manager of the 
Forge House, Old Forge. The road is sandy, rough and un- 
interesting. From Moose River to Old Forge it is extremely 
rough, running through the woods all the way. 

The Fulton Chain Railway is, or rather was, interesting as 
beginning and ending in the woods, and, incidentally for road- 
bed and rolling stock. The track was of wood, three feet 
guage, the locomotive a nondescript, but it got there with the 
traveler and none were found to wish it otherwise. It ex- 
tended from Moose River to " Minnehaha " foot of the Still- 
water, eight miles. Its history though brief was brilliant. Its 
closing more brilliant even than its career, for it went up at last 
in flames which destroyed engine and rolling stock entire 
and a section of several feet of its wooden track. It was a 
great comfort to a thumped and jolted public entering from 
this direction, but the approach of the A. & St. L. R. R., with 
its powerful connections seemed to render the opening of the 
road for the season of '92 inadvisable. 

The Adirondack League Club Preserve lies east ot 
Moose River, partially in Herkimer and partially in Hamilton 
counties, as shown in the accompanying map. The A. & St. 
L. Railroad will bring the tract within nine hours of New 
York. Old Forge Station will be about four miles from the 
new Club House " Mountain Lodge " now being built on 
Moose Lake at a cost of $20,000. This is one of the largest 



204 



The Adirondacks. 



private sporting preserves in this country, the forest lands 
owned by the Club in fee comprising over 104,000 acres, while 
it has leased the exclusive hunting and fishing privileges of 
about 75,000 acres more, adjoining its property on the east 
and south. It has an average elevation of 2,200 feet. 




ADIRONDACK LEAGUE CLUB PRESERVE. 



The Club was organized in 1890 by a number of gentlemen 
of sporting proclivities, for the purpose of establishing a game 
preserve in a chosen quarter of the Adirondack wilderness and 
to put into practice the system of rational forestry prevailing 
on the continent of Europe, which reconciles the preservation 
and continual reproduction of forest areas with a continual 
and increasing income. Prof. B. E. Fernow, Chief of the 
Forestry Division of the Department of Agriculture at 
Washington, is one of the Trustees, and the forestry ad- 
viser of the Club, and is in the active management of its 
forest policy. A contract for the removal of the spruce above 
12 inches in diameter at a stumpagc price, which already 
guarantees the Club an income from this source of $35,000 a 
year for the next fifteen years, is in operation, and this income 
it is believed, could be increased to $60,000 a year without 



Old Forge. 205 

detriment to the tract as a hunting or fishing preserve, and 
with positive benefit to the forest. Prof. Fernow estimates at 
a round million dollars the value of the merchantable timber 
which could be removed to the forest's immediate advantage. 

The plan of the Club contemplates a possible membership 
of 500. Membership shares were originally $1,000 each and 
about 100 shares yet in the treasury to be sold at that price to 
such as become members before July 15th. After July 15th 
the price will be $1,200 per share. Each share is unassessible, 
and entitles the holder to an undivided five-hundredth interest 
in the property, with all its hunting and fishing privileges, and 
also to a five acre site wherever selected, for a cottage or 
camp, which is deeded to each member in fee. Most of the 
sites so far selected have been on Honnedaga or Moose Lakes, 
and several handsome cottages have been erected during the 
last year. The Club house, " Forest Lodge," on Honnedaga 
Lake, is kept by A. D. Barber, Jr., a member and the steward 
of the Club. Here excellent accommodations are furnished 
to members, their families and guests. Each member is en- 
titled to invite a friend for two weeks each season to accom- 
pany him. Applications for membership may be sent to Hon. 
Warner Miller, Chairman of the Committee on Admissions, 
44 Wall St., New York, or to Robert C. Alexander, Secretary, 
23 Park Row, New York. A handsome club book, containing 
maps, illustrations and other interesting matter, has been pub- 
lished by the Club. The Trustees of the Club are Hon. 
Warner Miller, Judge Henry E. Howland, A. G. Mills, Stan- 
ford White, Judge Warren Higley and Henry C. Squires, of 
New York, Mills W. Barse and O. L. Snyder, of Buffalo, 
Alexander R. Harper, of Philadelphia, B. E. Fernow, of 
Washington, and Judge F. G. Burnham, of Newark, N. J. 

Old Forge (Station) is in the Arnold clearing, 281 miles 
from New York and about two miles from the old forge dam 
on the outlet of the Fulton Chain. This section is often 
spoken of as the "Brown Tract" and comprehends the lands 
lying around the head-waters of the Moose River. It was so 



2o6 The Adirondacks. 

called after John Brown, of Providence, R. I., (who must not 
be confounded with that other John Brown, the " Old Man 
of Ossawatamie," who lies buried at North Elba) who became 
their owner in 1793. Under direction of Brown's son-in-law 
a large forge was built below the first of the Fulton Chain of 
Lakes and the manufacture of iron attempted. At one time 
thirty to forty families were gathered here but the venture 
proved a failure and Httle besides the more substantial por- 
tions of the old forge remains now to mark the spot. 

Old Forge (hamlet and P. O.) at the old forge dam boasts 
a dozen or so houses, a saw-mill, the Fulton Chain Fish 
Hatchery and a very good hotel — The Forge House— with 
capacity for 120 guests. Rates $2 per day; $10 to $12 per 
week. This house is open all the year. Messrs. Garmon & 
Crosby are the owners. Buckboards will be furnished to 
convey passengers to or from the railroad at Boonville or 
Port Leyden at $3 each. 

Steamer Fulton, Capt. E. L. Sheppard runs daily morning 
and afternoon (Sunday excepted) from the head of Fourth 
Lake to Old Forge and return. Fare 50 cents to $t.oo from 
various points according to distance, the same being excur- 
sion rates and good for return to starting points same day. 
The dam at Old Forge renders the stream navigable and 
makes First, Second and Third lakes practically one sheet of 
water. 

Third Lake Camp, Robert Perrie, proprietor, is at the 
head of Third Lake, five miles from Old Forge. It is a com- 
bination frame and log house and will provide for about 
twenty guests. Rates $2 per day; $10 per week. Open 
May to November. Fourth Lake is the largest of the chain, 
being nearly six miles in length. It contains a number of 
pretty islands and a number of public camps where entertain- 
ment can be obtained at from $7 to $10 per week. The 
most noted of these are the Fourth Lake House near the 
outlet, C. S. Halliday, proprietor, and the Cedar Island 
Camp, W. C. Augur, proprietor, on an island near the head 
of the lake. In addition are the Alexander and the Arnold 



Fulton Chain. 207-A 

Camps at points on the south shore ; Wood's Camp, kept by 
A. Wood, near the north end, and the Hess Camp at the out- 
let of Fifth Lake. A half mile stream, navigable during high 
water, connects Fonrth Lake with Fifth, which is but a little 
pond from which a half mile carry leads into Sixth Lake. 
The shores here and of the stream through which we go into 
Seventh are a slimy protest against the damming and overflow 
of public lands. Seventh Lake is about two miles long with 
sandy beach in places, its beauty much impaired, however, by 
the flooding that renders the inlet up which we go, one mile, 
anything but attractive. From the head of navigation, a 
mile carry leads into Eighth Lake which, wonderful to relate, 
still preserves its shores almost untouched by man. This 
lake is two miles in length and contains an island on which 
Old Alva Dunning, the guide, has built a log camp. A trail 
one and a half mile long passes up over the divide from the 
head of Eighth Lake and down to the Brown Tract Inlet, 
which, followed eastward four miles of devious winding brings 
the voyaguer to Raquette Lake. 

Big Moose Lake lies about five miles in an air line north of 
Fourth Lake of the Fulton Chain. It may be reached through 
Bub's Moose, and Second Lakes of the north branch chain, 
by leaving Fourth Lake near Wood's Camp. Camp Craig 
on the south side of the lake will provide for about thirty-five 
to forty guests at $3 per day ; $14 per week. Open May ist. 
H. H. Covey, proprietor, P. O. Old Forge. A trail leads west 
into Twitchel Lake thence north to Beaver River. 

Ne-ha-sa-ne Park belongs to Dr. W. Seward Webb, Presi- 
dent of the A. & St. L. R. R. " Ne-ha-sa-ne " is Indian for 
" crossing on a log." It includes Second, Third and Fourth 
Lakes of the Fulton Chain and extends northward in irregular 
outline for twenty-four miles, to the St. Lawrence County line 
including, with Mountain Park of which Dr. Webb also owns 
the larger share, an area of about three hundred square miles. 
Of this, the western two thirds of township No. 37, townships 
38 and 43, the north two-thirds of No. 42, including Lake 
Lila (formerly Smith's Lake) and Ne-ha-sa-ne Lake (formerly 



207-B The Adirondacks. 

Albany Lake)*and territory to the west, are reserved for the 
owner and permits to hunt and fish are issued only to intimate 
personal friends or acquaintances. Permits will be given to 
any sportsman to hunt and fish on all the property except the 
above named and to camp on townships on 23 and 36 Hamil- 
ton County without any permits, on condition that the state 
game and fish laws are observed, but notice is also given that 
men will be stationed there, and that the first violation of the 
deer or fish law will cause the immediate ejection of the of- 
fender. The railroad passes in a northeasterly direction 
through the park crossing Beaver River at Little Rapids, 
about twenty miles east of Beaver Lake thence continues be- 
tween Cranberry Lake on the west and Tupper Lake on the 
east to Saranac Lake and beyond. 

Beaver Lake Country is entered generally from the west 
via Lowville. Special conveyance carrying parties of four or 
five to Fenton's cost $6. It will be well to make arrange- 
ments for transportation in advance, for which address, Charles 
Fenton, Number Four. 

The Fenton House stands on an elevation, overlooking 
Beaver Lake, 133 feet above the water. In addition to the 
main building are cottages suitable for families, with an aggre- 
gate capacity for 160 guests. This house is open all the year. 
Rates, $2 per day; $9 to $10 per week. Charles Fenton, 
proprietor. Mr. Fenton promises "to show from one to five 
deer around the lake, within sight of the hotel, toward the 
close of any day in the early summer." The powerful 
" Beaver River Club," whose tramping ground this is, 
is opposed to " hounding." As a result, deer that have 
been driven from other sections by the dogs seek 
this quieter place; and the true sportsman never lacks for 
game worthy of his skill. Superior trout-fishing is also to be 
had in Beaver River; and, in short, " Number Four," which is 
the post office address, offers a combination of excellent sport 
with reasonable ease of access. 

Beaver Lake is about i\ mile in length. A smaller body 
of water, closely connected on the south, is called Beaver 



The Adirondacks. 207-c 

Pond. Crooked Lake may be reached by boat, ij miles, and 
carry to the north ij miles. Francis Lake is about one mile 
south, and is something over one mile in length. Beaver 
River is quite rough above Fenton's for 9 miles, above which 
is found good boating for twenty-five miles; then alternate 
boating and carries for six miles brings to Ne-ha-sa-ne Lake. 

The Carthage and Adirondack Railway extends from 
Carthage to Benson Mines, a distance of 43 miles. Lake 
Bonaparte, 17 miles from Carthage, is of some note as a sum- 
mer fishing resort, with a comfortable hotel, and was first 
brought into notice as the retiring place of Joseph Bonaparte, 
the Nephew of his Uncle. Oswegatchie Station is 39 miles 
from Carthage. From this point it is six miles to Fine, where 
boats may be taken by prearrangement with guide, for Cran- 
berry Lake via the Oswegatchie River. Star Lake is 2 J miles 
south of Oswegatchie Station, where two good hotels supply 
necessary entertainment. Benson Mines is the terminus of 
the road. From this point a trail leads south to the head of 
the overflow of Cranberry Lake and another to the outlet. 

Cranberry Lake was originally about six miles in length, 
but a dam built at its outlet increased its area considerably 
and changed its shape. Its altitude is 1,540 feet. 

Cranberry Lake House stands near the outlet, and can 
provide entertainment for 75 guests. Rates, $10.50 per week; 
$2 per day. Mrs. E. J. Bishop, proprietor. P. O., Cranberry 
Lake. Opens May ist, closes November ist. Camp supplies 
and boats can be had here and guides secured by notice given 
in advance of arrival. Fine fishing is found on the river below 
the lake, and on the various brooks and ponds emptying into 
it. As good hunting, probably, as the Adirondacks afford, 
can be found at the south, at points easily reached. The 
*' all land " route to Cranberry Lake is from De Kalb Junction, 
but the stage service is uncertain, and it would be well before 
going to address Mrs. Bishop for particulars. 

I wish you a pleasant journey and a safe return. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 




Outfits, Supplies, Guides, etc. 

'or Camp Outfit and genera, woods life 
the following is recommended : A complete 
change of underclothing; two pairs of ser- 
viceable socks, but slightly heavier than you 
habitually wear at the season (soft wool is 
preferable) ; pair blue flannel shirts with wide 
collars, confined at the throat by a substan- 
tial silk handkerchief. If the unaccustomed 
material chafes the neck, the shirts may be 
^ put on outside the garment ordinarily worn, 
in which ibse linen collars must not be forgotten. The 
pants and vest should be of some strong woolen goods, 
the coat the same, cut rather short and to button close 
up to the neck. Have pockets ample and numerous, 
with covers; you will find use for them. Wear a soft 
felt hat with a reasonably wide brim. By grasping it in 
a manner easily learned the rim forms a convenient drink- 
ing cup. Do not commit the too common error of pro- 
curing new shoes or boots for the occasion. A pair of 
laced shoes, roomy, but not too loose, well broken to the 
foot, with broad soles and rather low heels, is best. The 
uppers should be of rather light grained kip or water- 
proof leather. Have leather or canvas leggings, strapped 
under the instep and buttoning, or to lace at the side well 
up toward the knee. Boots may be used in place of shoes 
and leggings, if preferred, but the evidence is largely in favor 
of the shoe. It is well to have a duplicate pair for alter- 
nates in wet weather. Rubber boots, although convenient 



Outfit. ■ 209 

at times, are not suitable for general wear or for traveling. 
A light overcoat will be found very comfortable at times. 
Among the necessaries should be included rubber coat and 
overalls for use in rainy weather, for the best fishing is often 
found under dripping clouds. Have also a light rubber 
blanket to throw over the knees and feet when in boat, or 
to protect you, in sleeping, from moisture below or abo've 
For sleeping or lounging in camp take a pair of common 
canvas slippers and sew on them cloth tops to come up 
around the ankle, and tie outside the pants. A light cloth 
cap will be found comfortable for night use. 

Ladies' Outfit contemplates a subject in which I would 
not presume to dictate; I have learned better. I humbly 
submit, however, that it is your first duty to make yourself 
as attractive as possible, subject only to the requirements of 
place and season; and I would suggest that, whatever may 
be allowable in the way of - fine " dressing, it is not consid- 
ered necessary, or even in good taste. Often the sweetest 
girls that ever brightened the wilderness with their presence 
reign queens of the evening in the same bewitching costume 
in which they boated and climbed mountains in the early 
morning. Consult some lady friend who has spent a season 
in the woods as to what constitutes a suitable outfit. In 
absence of such source of information the following is sug- 
gested for boat, camp and tramp : Underclothing, such as 
experience has shown best suited to the season and your 
individual comfort, giving fine flannel die preference in all 
but the very warmest of weather. Underskirts should gen- 
erally be of dark flannel, although, if much walking is done 
one of dark cotton will be found an agreeable substitute! 
A becoming dress may be made of blue or gray flannel or 
ladies' cloth. It may be pleated back and front, gathered 
at the waist, or fitting loosely to the form, but should in any 
case allow perfect freedom in the use of the arms. The 
skirt should be not overfull, and cut a finger shorter than the 
ordinary walking 4ress; trim but little, in shades of same 



2IO The Adirondacks. 

color as body ; a cord at wrist, collar and waist-band, with 
a knot of ribbon or a wild flower at the throat, is sufficient. 
A dainty bit of ruffling or old lace about the neck transforms 
the morning into an evening toilet. Wear a soft felt hat 
with wide brim ; trim with forest leaves. Wear a lady's hat, 
if they differ from men's — don't ape masculinity in dress ; 
the average Adirondack sportsman does not admire it, 
although, if confronted by the horrid fact, he is too much 
of a gentleman to tell the truth. Wear dark, serviceable 
hose and substantial, roomy Balmoral boots, with broad 
soles and low, broad heels. Wear Lisle thread, cotton or 
doeskin gloves. They may be made with long wristlets to 
button or tie outside the dress sleeve, to guard against pos- 
sible attack of black fly or mosquito. A chatelaine belt and 
pocket, with tin drinking cup, etc., is convenient. A light 
sun umbrella of the walking-stick pattern is a comfort in 
rain or shine. A shawl will often be found acceptable of 
an evening following the warmest of days. Carry a rubber 
or waterproof circular with hood, a pair of light rubbers fc i 
the feet, and a piece of light rubber cloth to throw over the 
lap and feet if surprised in a boat by one of those fast-mov- 
ing Adirondack showers. In rough weather sit or lie low 
in the boat ; never, at such times, grasp the sides to support 
yourself. A skillful boatman will manage in safety one of 
those light Adirondack shells in the roughest of water, if 
allowed entire control of boat and load. Go fearlessly into 
the woods. It is stated on the highest authority that not a 
noxious plant or venomous serpent exists in the Adirondacks. 
Camp and Outfit. — A bark or bough camp will do in 
absence of anything better, but is nothing hke as comfort- 
able or convenient as a tent. An "A" tent, seven by eight 
feet on the ground, a^":)! Js comfortable sleeping room for 
four, and on occasion five or even six. A rope, passing 
through lengthwise at the top and out at the ends, takes the 
place of ridge pole, and may be fastened to convenient trees 
or over crotched sticks, cut the proper height and tied tc 



The Camp. 2ii 

stakes. The material should be of cotton, water and mil- 
dew-proof, and complete, need not weigh more than nine to 
twelve pounds. In m.aking your bed of boughs, remember 
that solid wood, if fitted to the form, is as comfortable as a 
bed of down. Apply the fact by burrowing or hollowing 
out cavities to fit the projecting points of hip and shoulder. 
Cover the boughs with a rubber blanket, in addition to 
which each member of the party should have a pair of heavy 
woolen blankets. A small bag, to be filled with leaves or 
moss and used as a pillow, is an improvement on a pair of 
boots, but not all that nature desires; and at the risk of 
excitmg ridicule — from idiots — I am free to recommend 
a small, well-filled feather pillow. It pays for itself in a 
single night's use. A few yards of mosquito netting drawn 
across the front of the tent after a good smudge is a luxury 
which declares a big diurnal dividend. For long, forced 
marches, a hammock made of cotton duck with a cover 
of the same, but somewhat shorter, buttoned over at each 
side, and forming a sort of pocket, is, with the addition of 
rubber blanket, bed and tent combined. A little ingenuity 
will suggest manner of arranging hoops over the face to 
cover with canvas or mosquito netting, as circumstances 
may require. 

The Camp. — In selecting a camping place during warm 
weather, choose an island or an exposed point free from 
underbrush where the wind will, to a great extent, free you 
from the mosquito and fly. In cool weather, it is needless 
to say, choose the thicket ; in either case, remember that a 
cold spring or brook and material for the camp-fire adds 
very much to your convenience. In pitching the tent, if 
on a side hill, dig a "A" shaped trench to lead running 
water on either side the tent; if on the level, ditch all around. 
A wall tent is better than the one already described, or if a 
long stay is anticpated, it pays to build log sides on which 
to mount the tent, and cover with a " fly " to insure certain 
protection from rain. A sheet-iron camp-stove cao be pro* 



212 The Adirondacks. 

cured of the dealers, or may be easily made to answer 
every purpose, if your stay in one place be long enough to 
warrant the trouble of transportation. 

A champagne basket, covered with waterproof cloth and 
provided with shoulder loops for carrying, makes an admira- 
ble pack basket. A rubber, or waterproof bag, or an ordinary 
two-bushel grain bag, with carrying loops of webbing, may be 
used for extra clothing, blankets, etc. Let your load rest 
well down on the back to carry. 

The Camp Kit may consist of a long-handled frying pan, 
a deep stew pan with cover, a nest of three or four covered 
tin pails, for water, tea, coffee, etc. ; pint tin cups, tin plates, 
a wire toaster of the gridiron pattern, a ladle or large iron 
spoon, table and teaspoons, knives and forks, and last but not 
least, soap, dish cloths and towels. 

Carry a pocket compass with you at all times — the best 
woodsmen are temporarily at fault. An ordinary lantern for 
camp use (for hunting Boudren's jack lamp is probably the 
best), candles, matches (a few wind and water-proof), towels, 
tooth brush, comb, pocket mirror, pins, needles and thread, a 
few extra buttons to match those worn, oil or tallow for your 
boots, stamped envelopes or postal cards (?), light hunting 
knife in sheath (?), light axe in sheath, and a supply of light 
reading of the convenient Franklin Square or Lakeside pat- 
tern. Take no large boxes with sharp corners, nor any article 
too heavy or unwieldy for one man to handle. Don't expect 
your guide to double carries habitually, rather reduce your 
baggage or get extra packmen for its transportation. 

Camp Supplies may be had from hotels generally, but 
many prefer to carry their own. Veterans need no advice ; 
but to the novice the following suggestions are made : 
First, consult your cook book, see what is needed in the 
preparation of proposed dishes and provide accordingly. 
The following list contains the staple articles : Wheat, Gra- 
ham flour, corn, and oatmeal, beans, Boston, and soda 



Supplies. 213 

crackers, lemon biscuit, baking powder, self-raising flour, 
maple sugar, loaf sugar, tea, coffee, condensed milk, bottled 
horse-radish, mustard, vinegar (?), pepper and salt in boxes 
with perforated covers, dried fruit, canned fruit (?) and but- 
ter, packed in salt and inclosed in hermetically sealed cans, 
which can be anchored in spring holes or under cold run- 
ning water. Bacon is extremely nice when sweet, as is also 
riork, unpoetical but palatable, and on occasion taking 
place of butter and all the seasonings. Dried beef is an 
important item; "jerked venison," one of the best things 
imaginable to carry when setting out for a tramp ; ask your 
guide to show you how it is prepared. For relishes — 
shades of mighty trout and speckled beauties forgive us — 
take a box of smoked red herring. Bermuda onions fill an 
aching void which nothing else can equal. Canned beef, 
pork and beans, corn, tomatoes, condensed soup, etc., may 
be added. Fresh vegetables and potatoes can be had from 
the hotels. Carry no liquor; if wee and cold, Jamaica 
ginger has all the heating properaes of whisky; while 
strong, black coffee is a better stimulant, with none of the 
evil effects following. 

The Medicine Chest need not be extensive. It should, 
however, contain cathartic pills : — a piece of Turkish rhu- 
barb is good ; cholera medicine 01 some kind ; a small 
bottle of collodion (composed of equal parts of alcohol and 
ether, with gun-cotton added to make it about the consist- 
ency of heavy varnish) ; applied to burns and small wounds, 
it forms an artificial skin, impervious alike to air and water; 
ammonia, to allay irritation arising from bites of insects ; 
cold cream or glycerine, for chapped face or hands ; court- 
plaster, seidlitz powders, ointment and adhesive plasters, 
lint and bandages, to use in case of emergency. To stop 
the flow of blood from wounds, bind on equal parts of flour 
and common salt ; for burns, apply wheat flour or collodion. 

Insect Preparation may be procured of the druggist, 
or compounded by yourself. The most convenient and 



214 The Adirondacks. 

effective, perhaps, as any, is composed of six parts of rimaon 
tallow to one of oil of pennyroyal, with a little camphor added. 
In the proportion of two ounces of sweet oil and one of oil 
of tar is good. "A coating of the grease from ham rinds, well 
rubbed on, is the best yet known," says George K. Holmes, of 
Great Barrington, Mass. Annoint exposed portions of the 
person with either of the above, then stand back and mark 
the frenzy of the baffled punkey. 

Sporting Outfit. — Do not rely on what books tell you. 
If you know nothing about the subject place yourself under 
some one that does, and trust them until you can judge for 
yourself. The most enticing of fancy flies in the hands of a 
greenhorn will not yield much sport — except to outsiders — and 
the grandest achievement in modern firearms requires some 
skill in using. If you have the requisite skill, carry a rifle ; if 
not, a fowling-piece is better. For general use there is per- 
haps no more convenient or serviceable arm to carry into 
camp than the " pocket " rifle, manufactured by the J. Ste- 
vens Arms and Tool Company of Chicopee Falls, Mass. A 
1 2 to 15-inch barrel, 32-calibre, is recommended. The weight 
is less than three pounds. A shot-gun barrel is also made to 
fit the same frame, so that either may be used at will. Are 
you artistic ? Carry a camera of the Kodak pattern or with 
small plate. A plate large enough to make a lantern slide 
yields a larger per-centage of comfort than any other size 
made. 

Guides receive $2.50 to $3 per day, furnishing boat and 
necessary cooking and table utensils. They cook and do 
other necessary camp work, and row and " back " the boat 
over the carries, where there are no other means provided; (in 
cases where horses are used the employer is expected to pay 
for transportation.) One guide and boat is ordinarily suflfi- 
cient for two persons, but for independence in fishing and 
hunting each sportsman should have his individual guide. 
There are two classes, known respectively as "ho- 
tel" and ** independent." The former are engaged foi 
the season by hotel proprietors, who relet them to par- 



Guides. 215 

ties ; the latter must be dealt with personally. There are 
good men in both classes, the nature of the surroundings 
usually determining to which they shall belong, experience only 
can determine their suitability for your peculiar wants. As a 
class they are a fine set of men, who, aside from the natural 
deference due the employer from the employed, admit of no 
inequality, but reflect back their usage. There are of course 
exceptions to the rule in man as in master. If only reasonable 
service is asked, there can usually be no complaint ; if fawning 
servility is expected, there is a reasonable doubt as to the re- 
sult, for one who knows enough for the profession knows when 
he is well used. The best guides are often engaged for a year 
in advance, and some sportsmen would as soon think of going 
without a gun as without their favorite guide. Parties have 
" done " the Adirondacks with map, book and compass, with- 
out the aid of a regular guide ; but the way is full of hard- 
ships that may be avoided by one accustomed to the country, 
and, if comfort, distance and time lost in out-of-the-way places 
are taken into consideration, attended with but little economy. 
The formation of a Guides' Union, advocated in these 
pages for some years, is at last accomplished in the organiza- 
tion of the " Adirondack Guides' Association." The society 
was organized June 27th, 1891, with Fitz-Greene Hallock of 
Saranac Lake as president. Verplanck Colvin was made 
honorary president and Dr. E. L. Trudeau, Frank S. Witherbee 
and Judge Henry E. Turner honorary trustees. The pro- 
fessed objects of the Association, outside the personal one of 
mutual protection against incompetents, is the fraternal one of 
rendering assistance to members in case of sickness or dis- 
ability and to their families in case of a member's death, and 
the patriotic one of securing wise legislation in the interests of 
the Adirondack region and the enforcement of established 
forest and game laws. The Association is alone judge of the 
fitness of its members. Certificates of membership are issued 
to competent men who are also entitled to wear the badge of 
the order, and the possession of such certificate or badge may 



2i6-A Guides. 

be taken as an indication of fitness for the position. The es- 
tablished price for service of members is $3.00 per day. Fol- 
lowing is the official list of officers and members in good 
standing May ist, 1892, with post-office address. 

Officers: — President, Fitz-Green Hallock ; Vice-Presidents, 
Thomas Redwood, Alonzo W. Dudley ; Treasurer, F. D. Kil- 
burn ; Secretary, John H. Miller. 

P. O., Forestport, Oneida Co., N. Y.— Henry Miller. 

P. O., Indian Lake, Hamilton Co., N. Y. — Josiah Brown, 
James Burke, Richard Burch, Dyer Daniels, Elijah Fish, 
Carlos Gilson, Arvin Hutchins, Carlos Hutchins, Joseph La- 
pararie, George Raymond, Thomas Savage, Frank Washburn. 

P. O. Lake Placid, Essex Co., N. Y. — George Alford, Sam 
Barton, Albert Billings, Edward Brewster, Martin Brewster, 
Arthur Hayes, John Hanmer, James Kelly, Miles Kennedy, 
Melvin Kennedy, Cash Lamoy, Marshal Lamoy, James Stan- 
ton. 

P. O., Paul Smiths, Franklin Co., N. Y.— Alvin Abbott, Ezra 
Bruce, James Carney, Thomas Clark, Edwin Corbin, Edwin 
Dustin, Eugene Flanders, EHas Hall, Jacob Hayes, Rawson 
Hayes, Ahas Hayes, Edward Hinkson, Irving Jaquis, Henry 
Kent, George Moody, Chester McCaffrey, John McLaughlin, 
Lovell Newell, Oren Otis, John Whitcher, Alfred Otis, Elverdo 
Patterson, Fred Rork, George Rork, John Rork, Thomas 
Redwood, John Redwood, Moses Sawyer, Wort Tyler, David 
Wine. 

P. O., Raquette Lake, Hamilton Co., N. Y. — John J. 
Richards. 

P. O., Saranac Lake, Franklin Co., N. Y. — Eugene Allen, 
Andrew Baker, Charles Bartlett, Daniel Bartlett, Hiram Ben- 
ham, Calvin Brown, Lowell Brown, Edward Cagle, Oatman 
Covin, Frank Davis, Henry Davis, Elmer Dockum, Alonzo 
Dudley, William Dukett, Lucius Evans, George Fayzett, 
Arlo Flagg, Edwin Flagg, Silas Flagg, John Foster, George 
Garwood, Chauncy Goodrich, Perley Graves, Fitz Green 



The Adirondacks. 216-B 

Hallock, Thomas Healey, George E. Johnson, John King, 
Robert King, Henry Kingman, Joseph Lamoy, Edwin Lewis, 
Charles Martin, Ransom Manning, William Manning, Stephen 
Martin, Charles McCoy, Herbert Miller, Benjamin Moody 
Cleveland Moody, Hiram (Tid) Moody, Robert S. Moody, 
William Moody, George Mussin, Robert Nichols, Anslem Par- 
sons, Thomas Peacock, Reuben Reynolds, Howard Slater, 
Warren Slater, William Stearns, Peter Solomon, Edwin Sum- 
ner, Simeon Torrance, John Turner, Henry Weller, Carlos 
Whitney. 

Charles Austin, Duck Derby, Earl Derby, Justin Ferring- 
ton, Charles McCaffrey, George Otis, Peter O'Malley, Ran- 
som Sweeney, Wesley Wood. 

P. O., Tupper Lake, Franklin Co., N. Y. — Harry Freeman, 
Daniel Hinkson, Ernest Johnson, George Pellerin. 




CHAPTER XIX. 

Trout Fishing. 

N the year 1880, it seems hardly necessary, in 
speaking of trout and trout fishing, to say that 
speckled or brook trout — the salmo fonti- 
fialis of our early years, now, by authority 
of the Smithsonian Institute, savelinus fonti- 
nalis — has a square tail, and that his sides are 
speckled with yellow and red spots, and that 
he is a cousin of the lake or salmon trout, 
which has a forked tail with mottled sides, and 
which the Smithsonian Institute insists shall be called cristiro- 
mer na7naycush ; for the love of angling has so grown during 
the last few years that it is not now considered a proper 
definition of fishing to say, it consists of " a stick with a string 
at one end and a fool at the other." On the contrary, those 
whose love of this sport will draw them to the brook side, 
or to the lake or pond, are men of all profession and occu- 
pation, and any one of them will tell you, if you ask him, 
that it requires skill and a knowledge of the habits of the 
trout to fill your creel. I doubt if the book was ever writ- 
ten that will make one a finished angler. To be sure one 
may gain something sometime from the written experience 
of others, but experience gained by time and patience on 
the stream is far better than any teacher. There are some 
general hints that will apply to the Adirondacks, but if it 
were attempted to enumerate all conditions for all times, 
half the anglers would say I found it so; the other half 
would say, /did not. 

When the ice has gone from the streams and ponds, and 
the sun has warmed the waters a trifle, brook trout will be 



Trout Fishing. 

found in the deep water and holes of the brooks, and it in 
hard work to get them to rise at a fly. They probably 
know that fliej are out of season at this time. If the fish- 
ing fever is on, you must take a plebian worm and let it lay 
on the bottom until it is sucked in by some lazy trout, then 
" yank." A little later, when the snow water is a thing of 
the past, and the fruit trees are in bloom, and the black fly 
and the May fly are out to devour and be devoured, and 
the lazy trout, by exercise on the riffs and in rough water, 
has become an athlete, then take your rod, attach the patri- 
cian fly, and cast ever so gently at the head of the rifls, 
where a stone makes a little eddy, working down gradually 
to tliie pool at the foot of the rapids, where tke heads of the 
family " receive," if they have not already anticipated your 
visit by going up the riffs like a quarter-horse, and taken 
your fly with a leap that shows you what you have to con- 
tend with. As the weather grows warmer they will drop 
back to the deep shady holes, invigorated and fattened by 
their visit to the graveled-bottom rapids. It may be that 
you will now be obliged to advance backward to the worm 
(it will not be sucked in now, and you will not be in doubt 
as to whether you have a bite or no), or to a live chub or 
shiner, or the tail of either, that when it islet down into the 
hole with the current and drawn up stream, it will whirl like a 
thing of life ; I say you may be obliged to resort to this, for 
there are holes in streams where it would be folly to attempt 
to cast a fly. If a person wishes to pass them by because 
they never fish with other than a fly, some one not so fas- 
tidious may come after and bring to basket some of the 
oldest inhabitants of the brook. Should you fish one day 
and find that the trout are all seeking the seclusion which 
the deep hole grants to themselves, their sisters and their 
cousins and their aunts (I will pay my fine to any authorized 
person), and the evening, night or next day brings a showe? 
to slightly raise the brook, as soon as the shower is over try 
it again, but fish the rapids, for the trout have come out to 



The Adirondacks. 

see what the flood has brought for them to feast upon 
A httle later the deep holes get warm by reason of Iom. 
water and continued hot weather. The trout have their 
resorts at this season as well as the angler, and so they take 
their families and travel to some portion of the stream 
where a cold spring comes in, ar some spring bubbles up 
from the bottom. At these " spring holes " they will be. 
found in hot weather in great numbers, if the game law has 
been observed. 

As to flies, most people ha^^e their own ideas ; but as this 
is written for those who have just joined the brotherhood, it 
may be well to say that out of the countless number of flies, 
some of them unlike any thing under the sun, the red, black, 
brown and gray hackles,* tied both a« a haekle and palmer 
fashion, Coachman,* yellow professor,* light and dark fox,* 
black gnat, Romeyn Abbey, Seth Green, White Miller, 
Grizzley King,* and Queen of the Water,* constitute i 
good supply if one takes a half dozen of each. Even this 
number is considered by somiC too many. My fly books con- 
tain more than two gross of flies, but many kinds have never 
been used, and in all probabilities never will be. I think I 
am safe in saying that the largest trout are caught at dusk or 
during starlight or moonlight nights; if I am too broad in 
making this assertion I will modify it by saying large trout 
may be caught at this time by using a white miller, or a fly in 
which white predominates; and, too, you must use a larger 
hook than the one you used duriag the day. If you have 
noticed a large trout in the streant during the day, and been 
unable to catch him, try him at nif hi, if it is brigkt, and you 
may be reasonably sure of his rising to your light colored 
fly. Sometimes you may catch an obstinate fellow by going 
above his resting place and slightly roiling the stream, and 
as the muddy water passes over, let your fly float as naturally 

* Those indicated by a star are importaintj and uhotild be in every collection. 



Trout Fisuinc;. 

as possible with it, and the chances are in favor of your get- 
ting the trout. He probably knows that roily water means 
a freshet, and a freshet brings witl\ it insects upon which he 
feeds. The latter portion of May and the month of June 
are considered the best portions of the open season for fish- 
ing in the Adirondacks, and morning and evening the best 
portion of the day, as the trout are then seeking their natural 
food; but the ways of the trout are past finding out, for 
there are times when they will bite at nothing. 

Although bait fishing is not to be sneered at, use a fly if 
possible ; you will have more satisfaction with half a basket 
caught in this way than w^ith a full one taken with bait. If, 
however, you must use bait, take your angle or earth worm 
after he is scoured in damp moss, and pass your hook 
through the neck half an inch from the head, then gathering 
up a loop of the body and pass tlirough again and again 
until you have the shai*:, as well as the beard of the hook, 
well covered and half an inch of " worm " over, should 
your worm-loop, or head, or tail be taken of and the fish 
not taken in, put on a fresh bait. Unless you have some 
decided objection fish down streajii. If you use live bait, 
(minnows) pass your hook through its back under the dor- 
sal fin, but not so low as \o break the back bone ; should 
you use a portion of a min«ow, cut off the tail just at the dor- 
sal fin; put your hook ia at the tail, and along the back 
bone, until the point of tke hook nearly reaches the place 
cut ; your bait will then be curved to courespond with the 
bend of your hook, and will whirl nicely when drawn 
against the current. 

As to direction for flyfishing, I give it up. The bestwa) 
is to go out with some one who uses a fly, and, in one day, 
you will learn more than from written directions studied 
faithfully for a month. There are many flies besides those 
mentioned above, should the angler desire a more extensive 
stock in his book. It may be well to mention a few, such 
as Gray Drake, Silver Black, Adirondack, General Hooker 



The Adirondacks. 

Scarlet Ibis, Shoemaker, Jungle Cock, Oak Fly, Brown 
Hen, Hoskins, King of the Water, Green Drake, Montreal, 
Moose, etc. As to tackle get a split bamboo, hornbeam 
or ash and lance wood rod of three joints, about eleven feet 
long, weighing eight to ten ounces. This with an extra tip 
or tips, one a little shorter than the others, will answer for 
both bait and fly, unless you propose to ''yank" your fish, 
in which case you need heavier timber ; a click reel to hold 
forty yards of braided silk, tapered line waterproofed, a 
half-dozep leaders or casting lines nine feet ioi-g, of best 
round silkworm gut, and smaller hooks or flies tied upon 
O'Shaunesey or Sproat bend hooks, with a landing net of 
coarse mesh, will constitute an outfit for brook trout in the 
Adirondacks. It is poor economy to buy poor tackle ; if 
you get any get the best, even if you get less. 

The lake or salmon trout, alt>.ough he will take a fly at 
times, is usually caught by trolling. The modus opemfidi is 
as follows : ^Vith a stiftish trolling rod, a balance multiplying 
reel to hold loo yards of braided silk, or linen line No. 4, 
leaders 12 feet long of single gut, and a minnow gang, which 
is made by tying 6, 9 or 12 hooks in groups of three to a 
length of single gut with a single hook about one and a half 
inches above the upper group of hooks for a lip hook, a 
gaff hook, and a pail of minnows completing the outfit. I 
am too fast ; you also require two or three pounds of lead. 
Lake trout fishing is in order as soon as the ice leaves the 
lakes, but at this time the trout are at the bottom, so put 
your rod together, put on your reel, pass your line through 
the standing guides of your rod, attach your leader and 
minnow gang, put the lip hook through both lips of the live 
bait, bend the bait and put one of the group hooks through 
the back of the bait behind the back fin in such a manner 
as to make it revolve when drawn slowly through the water, 
ten or twelve feet from the joining of your casting line or 
leader and your fish lin2, t:2 on your sinker with a piece of 
line 6 or 8 feet long, weaker than your fish Une, so if you 



Trout Fishing. 

catch on the bottom you will lose only your sinker. Yout 
sinker must be heavy enough to carry your line nearly to the 
bottom. You can fish by letting your sinker strike bottom 
and pulling in only to let your sinker strike again, but you 
need to know the kind of bottom upon which you are fish- 
ing, as grass would soon use up your lead. This kind of 
fishing can be better shown than taught by writing, and as 
it is not necessary we will pass it. About the first of May 
the trout begin to rise to the surface, and the higher up 
they are the less sinker you require. Soon they are at the 
surface to stay only for a few days. Now you require only 
enough sinker to keep your bait well under water, or even 
no sinker at all, for wherever the trout are, bottom or top, 
the boat must be rowed very slowly. 

Buoy fishing is done by anchoring a block of wood, as a 
land-mark, or water-mark, in some deep portion of the lake. 
Morning and evening, for two or three days, bait your buoy 
by throwing overboard bits of fish cut up about the size of 
a butternut ; this will sometimes attract the fish and keep 
them around the buoy. When you think it baited, put on 
your hook a piece of fish like that you have used, or a live 
minnow, and drop it over, and keep your bait moving up 
and down by a slight motion of your hand, until the sun 
gets too hot, or your seat gets too hard, or you make up 
your mind that there are better ways of fishing. If this 
'ast happens, slick to it, and let some one else jig their line 
in loo or 125 feet of water, with the result: "Oh, a 
trout just breathed on the bait, but that was all !" Buoy 
fishing is not practiced now nearly as much as in former 
years, but trout are yet caught in this manner. The open 
season is from April ist to October ist, brook trout, April 
I St to September ist. I have of necessity omitted much 
that might be said about trout fishing, and perhaps written 
what could as well be omitted; but will say in conclusion, 
let the " sign " be in the head or in the feet, the next time 
you try them, may your baskets be filled with fair-sized 
trout, but leave the little ones in the water to grow. 

A. N. Chenev. 



Where and Where Not to Fish. 

In 1882 Mr. Fred Mather, the well known fish culturist, ex- 
plored a great portion of what is known as Adirondack 
waters for the purpose of making an ichthyological report 
to accompany the report of the Adirondack survey. Mr. 
Mather's researches have only recently been given to the pub- 
lic, and no part of them will prove of more interest to the sum- 
mer visitor to the great wilderness than that relating to the dis- 
tribution of the fishes known to the anglers as the " game 
fishes ;" such as are captured by rod and line. For the names of 
the lakes, ponds and streams that are used in the report, 
he relied upon Stoddard's map of the Adirondack wilder- 
ness. Mr. Mather supplemented his summer's work of per- 
sonal exploration and examination by reports from guides and 
others regarding waters that he had not the time to visit. So 
that his report, so far as it goes, is reasonably correct and 
trustworthy. 

Brook trout are not found in the following waters : Metcal, 
and T Lakes, tributaries of West Canada Creek, Spectacle, Dex- 
ter, Spy, Oxbow, Metcalf, Coal, Scuts, Willis, Murphy, Warner, 
Remson and Bug Lakes. All others are supposed to contain 
them. 

Lake trout, commonly called salmon trout, are not found in 
the following waters : None of the lakes of West Canada Creek 
except Spruce, Indian, Ferris, Christian, Morehouse, Jersey- 
field, Goodluck, Oxbow, Metcalf, Sheriff, Canada, Coal, Willis, 
Nicks, Little Woodhull, Stone Dam, Wilmurt and the Eagle 
Chain of Lakes. By implication the other lakes in the Adiron- 
dacks do contain lake trout. 

Black bass are found in Raquettc, Forked, White, Fourth, 
Bisby, Sucker, the Blue Mountain Chain and the Fulton Chain 
of Lakes, Moose and Black Rivers. 

The Rainbow (California) trout have been placed in Fulton 
Chain, Bisby, Woodhull, Pleasant, Round, Horn, and Jones 
Lakes, Moose, Oswegatchie and Black Rivers, and Silver Lake. 

Land-locked salmon have beea planted in Woodhull, MucJ 
Sand. Little Moose and the Fulton Chain of Lakes. 



Game Laws. 

The open seasons for fish and game as follows : 

Ruffed Grouse and Woodcock, August 15th to January ist. 

Wildfowl, September ist to May ist 

Squirrels, black and gray, September ist to January ist. 

Hares and Rabbits, not protected. 

Meadow Larks, November ist to January ist. 

Wilson's or English Snipe, September ist to January ist. 

Deer, August 15th to November ist, but no person shall 
kill or take alive more than two deer in one season. May be 
hunted with dogs from loth September to loth October only. 
Dogs not allowed in St. Lawrence County at any time. No 
fawns shall be killed at any time. Not more than one deer 
shall be transported, and then only when accompanied by 
owner. The violation of any of these provisions is a mis- 
demeanor, with an additional penalty of $100 for each viola- 
tion. 

All Trout, except Lake Trout, April 1 5th to September ist. 

Lake Trout 2ix\d. Land-locked Salmon, May ist to October ist. 
Legal length of all trout and land-locked salmon, six inches. 

Black Bass, May 30th to January ist, except in Lake 
George, August ist to January ist. Legal length of black 
bass eight inches. 

Muscalonge, May 30th to January ist. 

Salmon, which means the Fra Salmon, March ist to August 
15th. Cannot be netted and the legal length is 18 inches. 

A. N. Cheney. 



Forest Commission. 

The Forest Commission, having charge of the forest preserve, 
was created by Chapter 283 of the laws of 1885. The commis- 
sioners now in office are Theodore B. Basselin, Townsend. 
Cox, and Dudley Farlin. Charles O. McCredie, Secretary. 

The Supt. is Col. William F. Fox. It is a responsible 
office, as upon the efficiency of the officer rests largely the ques- 
tion of success or failure in what is yet but little more than an 
experiment. The result so far has shown that the one item 
of trees which the honest but giddy lumbermen cut annually 
by mistake on land belonging to the State, amounts to thou- 
sands of dollars. 

The lands constituting the forest preserve are the lands now 
owned, or which may hereafter be acquired, by the State of 
New York within the counties of Clinton (excepting the towns 
of Altona and Dannemora) Delaware, Essex, Franklin, Ful- 
ton, Hamilton, Herkimer, Lewis, Saratoga, St. Lawrence, 
Oneida, Warren, Washington, Greene, Ulster and Sullivan ; 
"and the forest preserve shall be forever kept as wild forest 
lands." 

The Forest Commission has power to appoint a forest war- 
den, forest inspectors, guards and fire wardens. The forest 
warden, forest inspectors, foresters and other persons acting 
upon the forest preserve under the written employment of the 
forest warden, or of the Forest Commission, may, without 
warrant, arrest any person found upon the forest preserve vio- 
lating any provisions of the act creating the commission. 

It also has the same power to bring action for trespass and 
to recover damages for injury, or to prevent injury to the pre 
serve which any owner of lands would be entitled to bring. 

The fire wardens have power to call upon any person in the 
territory in which they act for assistance in suppressing fires, 
and every person refusing to act when so called shall be liable 
to a fine of not less than five nor more than twenty dollars. 

Any person who shall wilfully or negligently set fire to any 
forest lands belonging to the State, shall be liable to a fine of 
not less than fifty nor more than five hundred dollars, or to im- 
prisonment of not less than thirty days nor more than six months. 



Routes to Gateways. 

HOW TO REACH THE ADIRONDACKS is naturally the 
first question asked, and to be answered here. The object of this 
chapter is to get the traveller from the great city to the grand old 
wilderness. 

The New York Central and Hudson River Railroad carries 
the larger proportion of the people who go up out of Gotham to the 
lakes and mountains at the north. Without ostentation, it provides 
its patrons with the best of service at the minimum of cost. Special 
fast trains leave the Grand Central Station for Saratoga and Lake 
George during the season, one leaving at about 9 a. m., reaching the 
points mentioned early in the afternoon. Another at about 3. 30 p. 
M,, reaches Saratoga at 9 o'clock, and on Saturday night runs to 
Lake George, returning on Saturday evening. A train leaving at 
6.25 P. M., with through sleepers attached, connects early in the 
morning at North Creek with stages for Blue Mountain Lake ; at 
Westport with stages for Elizabethtown and Lake Placid ; at Port 
Kent for Au Sable Chasm, and at Plattsburgh with trains for Au 
Sable Station and Saranac Lake. For time tables or any desired in- 
formation address George H. Daniels, General Passenger Agent, 
Grand Central Station, N. Y. 

The West Shore Railroad, during the season of summer travel 
runs through trains from Washington to the Adirondacks. Pas- 
sensrers and baggage are taken from Jav and 42d Streets. New York. 
The Day Boats are the " New York " and " Albany " — new and 
splendid specimens of shipcraft, with iron hulls 300 feet in length, 
accommodating 1,800 passengers, and claimed to be the fastest steam- 
boats in the world. They were built exclusively for carrying passen- 
gers. The spacious cabins are finished in highly polished woods, 
are furnished luxuriously, and adorned with statuary and paintings. 
The dining-rooms are on the main deck, where the traveler can en- 
joy an excellent dinner, which is served on the European plan, and 
lose nothing of the view of this most charming of American rivers. 
They leave New York and Albany at about 8:30 A. m., touching at 
the principal landings on their way, meet near Poughkeepsie, and ar- 
rive at their destinations at about 6 p. m. A pleasant feature is an 
orchestra on each steamer. During the season, fast trains run to and 
from Saratoga to connect with these boats, and on Saturday night 
run through to Lake George. Fare, $2. F. B. Hibbard, G. i' . A., 
Desbrosses Street Pier, New York. 

The People's Line Steamers, " Drew" and *' Deaii Richmond," 
form the night line between Albany and New York. They have few, 
if any, equals in size, equipment, or accommodations, combining all 
the conveniences of a first-class hotel, and well deserving the name, 
so often bestowed, of floating palaces. Meals are served on the Eu- 
ropean plan. M. B. Waters, General Passenger Agent. Albany, N. Y. 
The Citizens' Line Steamers, " Saratoga " and "City of Troy," 
are also fine specimens among this distinctive class of river boats. 
They are of light draft, and fitted up with a view to speed in 
traveling. The state rooms are commodious, heated by steam 
in cold weather, and are complete in all their appointments. 
Meals are served on the European plan, in a style equal to 



Routes to Gateways. 

the best of hotels. Free transportation carriages between the depot 
and steamboat landing at Troy attend evening trains and baggage is 
transported free. Geo. W. Gibson, G. P. A., Troy. 

It is advisable to secure rooms in advance by either of these lines 
during the height of the season, which may be done by telegraphing 
their respective passenger agents at Albany or Troy, or on applica- 
tion to the offices at the terminus of the lines. 

The Delaware and Hudson Canal Company, by its absorption of 
the Albany & Susquehanna, the Rensselaer & Saratoga and the New 
York & Canada Railroads, has become one of the most important 
carriers of summer travel in the country, and is using its great re- 
sources most energetically and effectively for the development of 
that part of New York, including Saratoga, Lake George and the 
Adirondack Wilderness, with which it is the chief channel of com- 
munication. During the season of pleasure travel extra fast trains 
are run from Albany and Troy to Saratoga, Lake George, Platts- 
burgh and Montreal. The appointments of the road are all that can 
be desired, the cars being specially fitted for pleasure travel, and so 
comfortable that drawing-room cars are not so much a necessity as 
they may be considered on some roads. 

Southern connections are made at Troy with Hudson River 
railroad and Citizens' line steamers for New York, and with the 
Troy and Boston railroad for the east. At Albany with H. R. and 
West Shore roads, and day and night boats for New York ; with 
Albany and Susquehanna railroad for Howe's Cave (39 miles), 
Sharon Spings (58 miles), Cooperstown, on the beautiful Otsego 
Lake (91 miles), and to Binghampton (142 miles), and with New 
York Central railroad for points west. 

Northern connections (with fare from Albany). — At Mechanics- 
ville r6o cts.) with Hoosac Tunnel route for Boston ; at Saratoga 
($1.17) with Adirondack railroad for Luzerne, Schroon Lake and Blue 
Mountain Lake (see Gateway No. 7) ; at Caldwell ($2.58) with steamer 
on Lake George (Gateway No. 6) ; at Whitehall ($2.34) with trains 
from Rutland and the east ; at Ticonderoga (l3.t)o) with branch 
road to foot of Lake George; at Crown Point ($3,30) with C. P. I. 
Co. s railway (see Gateway No. 4) ; at Westport (I3.84) with stages 
for Elizabethtown, Keene Valley and Lake Placid (Gateway No. 3) ; 
at Port Kent ($4.65) with stages for Au Sable Chasm and Keeseville 
(Gateway No. 2) ; at Plattsburgh (15.04) with Ausable Branch and 
Chateaugay railroads (Gateway No. i) for the Saranac, St. Regis 
and Chateaugay Lakes, and at Rouses Point ($5-75) with Central 
Vermont railroad for the east, and the Ogdensburg and Lake 
Champlain road to points west. 

From Whitehall north to Port Henry the route is substantially the 
same as described on pages 17 to 23 ; then the road bears away 
until Westport station is passed nearly a mile inland, after which it 
crosses and follows down the valley of the Boquet, passing along 
nearly two miles distant from Essex, situated on the lake shore. As 
the head of Willsborough Bay is neared, it rises gradually to more 
than a hundred feet above the water at times on some shelf cut in the 
sloping wall ; then over solid arches of stone spanning a mountain 
torrent ; anon plunging through deep cuts, and at one point diving 
into the inky darkness of the tunnel ; then out along the beetling 
cliffs, while below the deep waters dash against the perpendicular 
walls, and upward a hundred feet the red rock rising, slopes away to 
the mountain height above. 



INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS. 

(Alphabetically arranged in Counties.) 

HOTELS : Albany. — Kenmore, 235. 

Clinton Co. — Cumberland House, 236 ; Hotel Champlain, 238 ; 
Salmon River Valley, 260. 

Essex Co. — Adirondack House, 239 ; Adirondack Lodge, 250 ; 
Ampersand, 242 ; Burleigh House, 233 ; Flume Cottage, 239 ; Grand 
View House, 248 ; Grove Point House, 252 ; Lake House, 252 ; 
Leland House, 252 ; Mansion House, 236 ; Mirror Lake Hotel, 247 ; 
Ray Brook, 259 ; Ruisseaumont, The, 248 ; St, Hubert's Inn, 248 ; 
Tahawus House, 239 ; Undercliff, 24S ; Westport Inn, 236 ; White- 
Face Inn, 248 ; Willsborough, The, 236 ; Algonquin, 259. 

Franklin Co. — Baker Cottage, 241 ; Blue Mountain House, 241 ; 
Hiawatha House, 241 ; Hotel Duane, 241 ; Indian Point House, 
241 ; Miller's Saranac Lake House, 243 ; Mountain View, 241 ; 
Ralph's, 241 ; Rainbow Inn, 241 ; Redside Camp, 246 ; Saranac Inn, 
244 ; Tromblee's, 246 ; Wawbeek, 244. 

Hamilton Co. — Antlers, The, 256 ; Brightside, 256 ; Blue Moun- 
tain House, 254 ; Blue Mountain Lake House, 254 ; Grove House 
237 ; Hemlocks, 256 ; Lake Pleasant House, 254 ; New Sagamore, 257. 
Lewis Co. — Fenton House, 245 ; Moose River Hotel, 246. 
Saratoga. — Clarendon, 232 ; Dr. Strong's Sanitarium, 232. 
St. Lawrence Co. — Childwold Park House, 245; Cranberry Lake 
House, 245 ; Pond View House, 245 ; Tupper Lake House, 246. 
Washington Co. — Hundred Island House, 233. 
Warren Co.— :Adirondack House, 241 ; American House, 253 ; 
Chester House, 252; North River Hotel, 253 ; Pottersville Hotel, 251; 
Taylor House, 252 ; Wayside Inn, 251 : Watch Rock, 253. 

RAILROADS.— Chateaugay, 240 ; D. & H., 231 ; N. Y. C. & H. 
R. R. R., 230. 

STAGE LINES. — Blue Mountain Lake, 259 ; Riverside & Scroon 
Lake, 251. 

STEAMBOATS.— Blue Mountain & Raquette Lake, 255 ; Hudson 
River Day Boats, 256 ; Night Boats, 232 ; Lake Champlain, 234 ; 
Lake George, 234. 

MISCELLANEOUS. Photographer.— G. F. Marvin, 248. 

Livery. — Fowler's, 236. Camp and Cottage Sites. — Lake Placid, 
248 ; Long Lake, 237. Publications. — Art Book, 237 ; Guide, 261 ; 
Forest & Stream, 258 ; Maps, 260, 261, 262. Photographic Sup- 
plies. — J. N. McDonald, 232. Eastman, last page. Kodak, 264. 
Insurance. — New York Life, 263. 



230 



PASSENGER RATES FROM NEW YORK 

- - VIA - - 

NEW YORK CENTRAL 

& 

HUDSON RIVER RAILROAD 

AND CONNECTING LINES. 



NOTE. — Through tickets to the following points are on sale at all 
New York offices of the New York Central and Hudson River Rail- 
road. Excursion tickets are issued at prices given in the column of 
figures under "And Return." 

For further information apply to George H. Daniels, General 
Passenger Agent, Grand Central Station, New York. 



TO 

Albany I3 

Au Sable Chasm. . . . 
Au Sable Station.... 8 
Blue Mountain Lake. 8 

Baldwin 6 

Caldwell* 5 

De Kalb Junction. .. . 8 

Elizabethtown 7 

Forked Lake 10 

Fort Ticonderoga. ... 5 

Glens Falls , . 4 

Gouveneur 8 

Lake Placid : 

via Plattsburg & Cha 

teaugay R. R 11 

Lake George* 5 

Through and return 
via Ticonderoga. . .. 

Loon Lake 10 

Lake Luzerne(Hadley)4 



And 
Beturn 

ID $6.00 

14.50 

60 15.85 
,95 17.00 
,70 

.55 10.30 

61 
.80 14.50 

70 20.50 

05 

80 8.80 
.21 



60 22.35 

55 10.30 

12.65 

90 1955 
86 8.80 



TO 

Malone. 

Montreal , 

via Lake George. 

North Creek 

North ville 

Paul Smith's 

Plattsburgh 



Port Kent 

Potsdam 

Raquette Lake 

Riverside 

Rome , 

Rouse's Point 

Saratoga 

Saranac Inn 

Saranac Lake (lower) 

Schroon Lake 

Troy 

Westport 



And 
Return. 

$9 90 

10.00 18.25 

11.50 19 75 

5.94 11.00 

4.98 
12.00 21.00 

8.00 14.75 

7.60 14.00 

9.21 

I0.20 19.50 

5.70 10.50 

5-30 

8.70 15.35 
. 4 20 7.50 
12.85 22.00 
11.35 20.40 

7.45 14.00 

3-15 

6.81 12.25 



^During the season a Special Excursion Ticket is issued for 
good on Saturday to Caldwell, and return following night. 



■50, 



•=^THEt^ 




TO THE 



ADIRONDACK MOUNTAINS, 

M0NTRE:AU, QUEBEC, 

Lake George, Lake Champlain, Au Sablo Chasm, 

Saratoga, Round Lake, Howe's Cave, Sharon 

Springs, Cooperstown and the 

CELEBRATED GRAVITY RAILROAD, between 
Carbondale and Honesdale, Pa., 

6T miles shorter than any other line, between New York, Albany 

or Troy to the St. Regis Lakes. 

ONLY AN HOUR'S STAGE RIDE TO LAKE PLACID. 

The completion of the Chateaugay R. R. from Plattsburgh to 
Saranac Lake, opens up the very heart of the Adirondack Moun- 
tains to direct Rail Communication. 

Low Price Excursion Tickets 

To all the famous Adirondack, Lake George and Lake Champlain 
resorts are on sale at the Company's offices, Albany, Troy and 
Saratoga, during the season of pleasure travel. 



H, C. YOUNG, 

SECOND VICE-PRESIDENT. 



J. W. BURDICK, 

GENERAL PASSENGER AGENT, 

Albany, n. Y. 



232 

PnoTOQRflPHic Outfits, 

I>RY^ PLATES, FI3L.]M:S, J^ND M:^k.TERI.A.3L.S. 

The old established Photographic Stock House and the nearest to places described in this 
book, offers tourists and travelers the largest assortment of goods to select from to be found 
any where in the State outside of New York City. Orders by mail filled promptly on day of 
receipt, and the excellent express connections "insure immediate deUvery. Best material 
and lowest prices. 

I keep a dark room where plates can be changed and developed, and all preparations made 
for a journey. All the standard plates, developers, and preparations used always on hand. 

J. N. McDONNALD, 514 Broadway, Albany, N. Y. 

opposite Union Depot Arcade. 

"DREW" or "DEAN RICHMOND," 

►>] OF5 THE -K- 

PEOPLE'S EVENING L.INE. 

You will enjoy all the comforts of good living. Tables supplied with the 
best the markets afford. The excellence of the cusine is a feature of this 
line. This is the tourist's and pleasure seeker's route as well as the business 
man's. A steamer leaves Albany for New York (every week day) 8 P. M. 
Leaves New York for Albany (every week day) from pier 41 N. R. foot 
Canal Street, 6 P. M, FARE, $1.50. ROUND TRIP, $2.50. 

M. B. WATERS, G. P. A. 

CLARENDON HOTEL, 

SARATOGA SPRINGS, N. Y. 
This aristocratic hotel opens June 30th, 1891. Coolest house, highest 
grounds. Special I'ates to early comers. 

AVERILL & GREGORY, Owners and Proprietors. 

AND SELECT FAMILY HOTEL. 
SJ^TIA^IOOG-Jk. SPRINGES, IS^. 1^. 

A popular summer resort. Open all the year. Table and appointments 
first-class. All the best remedial appliances. NEW IN 1891, Reception Hall, 
Hydraulic Elevator, Sun Parlor and Promenade on the roof. Illustrated 
circulars free on application. Address Dr. S. E. STRONG. 

S¥8DD^WS NEW ja^p m w^ 

A>I]<<>M>ACK WIL>^1^N£$$. 

Shows Mountains, Lakes, Trails and Wilderness Resorts. 
••^-^!*i^BY IVIAII^ $1.00. •■'^^^-f 



233 

BUf^LBIGH HOUSE 

TieeNDEReGA, n. y. 

E. J. W0OD, PRGPRIETeR. 

This new and elegant hotel is pleasantly located midway between L.ake 
Champlain and Liake George. 

The building is of brick. 80x40, 4 stories above the basement. Mansard roof, 
TOO commodious rooms, newly furnished and supplied with an abundance of 
Lake George water, heated by steam, lighted by electric light, hot and cold 
water baths, complete fire protection on each floor. All the appointments are first- 
class. Burleigh House is within three hours ride of Schroon Lake. Shortest and 
most direct way to the Adirondacks. 

Attractions include many p inis of historic interest within short range of this 
hotel, among which are the extensive fortifications of FORT TICONDEROGA built 
by the French in 1755, and surrendered to Col. Ethan Allen, May loth, 1775 ' who 
demanded it " in the name of the Great Jehovah and the Continental Congre'ss 

Mount Hope, where heavy redoubts and fortifications were made upon which 
to erect batteries to bear upon the Fort. 

Mount Defiance, which rises 750 feet above Lake Champlain. Gen. Burgoyne 
ascended this mountain from the north, July 4, 1777, erected a battery of heavy guns 
upon its summit, completely commanding the Fort, and dislodged the Americans 

L.ake George, (the " Como " of America.) with its many delightful resorts and 
thousand enchanting views. 

Lord Howe's Monument, erected near where he was fatally wounded by a 
French scout. 

Fort Frederick, built by the French in 17^(1, much of which remains in a good 
state of preservation. And many other localities of interest. 

FIRST-CLASS LIVER V connected with the house. GOOD BOATING within 
a few minutes walk on either lake. Fine opportunity for fishing, where tons of trout 
and bass are annually taken. Hunting grounds between Lake Pharaoh and Lake 
George, abound with deer and small game. Telegraph and express office in tie 
house. Rates of board $10 to $20 per week. Transient, $2.50 per day. 




R. G. Bradley & Co., Proprietors. - SHELVING ROCK, N. Y 

Rates, $10 to I17.50 per week ; $2.50 to $3 per day. Post-office 
in the house. Particular attention given to invalids. Telegraph 
office within five minutes' walk. Fresh milk and vegetables from 
Shelving Rock Farm. 



234 



^/II(E ©HJIMPtJlIN gTEJ^MEI^S. 



©UM^4KR ARRANGKMKNT. 



SEASON OF 1891. 



«« VERMONT," Capt. B. J. Holt, 

will leave Plaltsburg at 7.00 a. m.; Bluff Point, 7.15 A. m. Port Kent, 
7.35 A. M.; Burlington, 8.40 a. m.; Westport, 10.10 a. m.; arriving 
at Fqrt Ticonderoga, 12.25 p. m., connecting with trains for the 
South and Lake George; returning, leave Fort Ticonderoga on arri- 
val of trains from the South and Lake George, 1.30 p. m.; Westport, 
3.30 p. M<, for Burlington, Port Kent, Bluff Point and Plattsburgh. 

BREAKFAST, DINNER and SUPPER SERVED ON BOARD. 

*' Chateaugj^y," Captain Bald^vin, 

will leave Westport at 7.00 A. m., touching at Essex, Burlington, 
Port Kent, Bluff Point, Plattsburgh. Gordon's and Adam's, reaching 
North Hero, 12.20 P. m,; returning, leave North Hero 12.20 p. m., 
touching as above, arrive at Westport 6.45 p. m. 

MEALS SERVED ON BOARD. 

^JII^E #EOI(GE StEJIHEKS- 



••HORICON," Capt. J. O. Reeves. 

w^ill leave Caldwell on arrival of train from Saratoga and the 
South, 9.40 A.M., for way landings and Baldwin, connecting 
with train for Lake Champlain ; returning, leave Baldwin i p.m. 
for Caldwell and the South. 

"XICONDE^ROQA," Capt. Arbtickle, 

leaves Baldwin 7.30 a.m. for way landings and Caldwell, con- 
necting with train for Saratoga, Albany, and New York ; leaves 
Cal4well on arrival of train, 4.30 p.m. for Baldwin. 

MEAI^S SERTED ON BOARJD. 

GENERAL OFFICE; GEORGE RUSH LOW, 

^WrUmgim^ F3^ General Agent. 



235 




HOTELv KENMORK, 



The Leading Hotel of Albany, IT. Y. 



Just added at an outlay of over $100^000 

100 Eler/ant Eooins, Grand Dining Hall 

{Handsomest in the State), Lobbies, 

Reading Rooms, etc. 

Centrally Located. Convenient to State 
Capitol and other public buildings. 



Free Omnibusses in Attendance at all Trains and Boats. 



H. J. ROCKWELL, Proprietor. 
F. W. ROCKWELL, Manager. 



236 

The Westport Inn, 

West port on Lake Cliamplaiu, New York. 

Mrs. 0. 0: DANIELL, Manager. Mrs. HENEY 0. LYON, Assistant. 

A thoroughly well appointed house, with good table, mountain spring 
water and excellent drainage, wide piazzas, with a superb view of the Lake 
and Mountains. 

Capacity 150. Rates, $3.00 per day, $10.00 to $21.00 per week. 

Good boating, fishing and fine drives. Livery stable near the house. 

It is within two minutes walk of the Lake' Champlain Transportation 
Company's wharf, two minutes from the Library and Post Office, and ten 
minutes drive from the Telegraph Office and Depot of the D. & H. R. R. 

Stages to and from interior points in the Adirondacks twice daily. 



" THE wmiigBe^oaep, 



J> Willsboroiigh Point, 
Lake ClLiniplain. 

Open June ist. Rates $3.00 per day, $12.00 to $18.00 per week. 
J. HENRY OTIS, (Late oF the Cascade House, Adirondacks.) Proprietor. 



IVIANSION HOUSE. 



ELIZABETHTOWN, 

New Yorlc. 

Situated at the gateway to the popular summer resorts iu the Adii'ondacks. seven miles 
froiri Westpott 600 feet above tide water. Finest mountain scenery, purest air and best 
water. No malaria, no hay fever. Tables unsurpassed, appointments modern, sanitary ar- 
rangements perfect, Write for circular, Open all the year. Itates $2.50 to $3.00 per day ; 
$10.50 to $lt. 00 v)er week. O. Kellogg's stages meet all trains, Private conveyances can be 
procured at all times by giving notice in advance by mail or telegraph. 

Mrs. S. J. liAMSON & CO., Proprietors. 

CUMBERLAND" HOUSE, 

Platt^burghi, N. Y. 
UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT. 

Located on Trinity Square. Richly furnished. Every covenience. 

Table unsurpassed. Free carriage to all boats and trains. 

Rates. $2.00 per day. Special for extended stay. 

CHARLES F. BECK, - Proprietor. 

(Late of the "Florida House," St. Augustine, Fla., and "Hotel 'Windsor,"Rouses Point.) 

ADIROnoai^KS 

FOVBEI^'S •:■ lilVERJ, 

SARANAC LAKE, N, Y. 

In connection with all Hotels and Sanitarium. Carriages meet parties 
at Depots on arrival of all trains. Orders by Telegraph or Telephone 
promptly attended to. 

W. S. FOWLER, Prop. 



237 

Adirondack Forestry. 

A number of gentlemen have secured, and will preserve intact, a tract of 
nearly 4,000 Acres of unbroken forest on both shores of 

/ ^^A#^^ I AL^er THE HEABT OF THE 

L^kJIMkji L^MrX C adirondacks. 

with miles of beautiful shores, sandy beaches, bold points, sheltered coves 
and the magnificent forest stretching back of all. 

Limited number of Choice Camp and Villa Sites in 10 acre lots for sale, 
including Game and Forest privileges of the entire tract, to unexceptional 
parties at $500 a lot. (A few of the best held at $1,000.) 

Any of these lots may be leased for three or five years at $25 or $50 and 
taxes per year, with privilege of pvirchasing at above prices at any time 
during lease. 

Also, FORKED PINE CAMP to let for season. Roomy, rustic lodge, 
with big fire-place. Kitchen and dining-room separate. Landing, Beach, 
Spring— everything complete. Apply to Trustees, 

HAZARD STEVENS, 85 Devonshire Street, Boston, Mass. 
OSCAR B. IRELAND, Springfield, Mass. 
GEORGE E. TERRY, Waterbury, Conn. 

OrM. B. SUTTON, Agent, 

Long L.ake, Hamilton Co., N. Y. 



LONQ L/IKE, N. T. 

Located in a pine grove at the junction of the Blue Mountain and 
Raquette Lake Roads, i mile from South Pond and aj^ miles from Owl s 
Head Pond and Mountain, to which a good trail will be opened the coming 
season. Owl's Head Pond is said to be one of the best grounds for trout 
fishing in the Adirondacks. Buttermilk Falls is only 2 miles distant, where 
good bass fishing is to be had. Plenty of pickerel is also to be found here, 
and good deer, partridge and duck shooting in their season. Guides, boats, 
and carriages to and from trains at North Creek furnished on application. 
Boats, per day, $2.50; per week, $10 to $14; Dinner, 75 cents ; Supper or 
Breakfast, 50 cents. Open May i ; closes Nov. 15. Boats, baggage and pas- 
sengers drawn to Forked or Blue Mountain Lake. Post office Grove, 



Hamilton County. 



DAVID HELMS, Proprietor. 



Ten pages of Photographs, 11x14 inches in size, grouped in Artistic 
Cover, by mail $'i.OO. Descriptive Price List on application. 

S. B. STODDABD, Publislier. 

Glens Falls, N. Y. 



238 






'J\^ 







')4 



'^ -^ 






V\ 






ip; 






<*'' 



< < 



5> 



be ^©tel (^hamplain 



On tlie Line of ttie Delaware & Hudaon R. R., 
Three IVliles South of Plattsliurg]:!, N. Y. 



THE STJP^EI^B 

unQmer Jf ofef otffie flortft. 

The northern tour is not complete without a visit to the 
*' Champlain/^ the most desirable and convenient stopping 
place en-route. 

STRICTLY FIRST CLASS. 






3^.iL.3Sr.i^C3-EI^ , 



239 

ADIRONDACK 

^ ^ HOUSB. 

SOLOMON KELLEY, Proprietor. 

Situated on an elevation west of the village of Keene Valley in one of th« 
most beautifvil sections in the 

HEART OF THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Large rooms well lighted and ventilated, Mountain Spring water on every 
floor. Studio for the accommodation of artists, and a telegraph office in the 
house. 

Having our own dairy, the butter, cream and milk will always be fresh 
and delicious. The table will be supplied with vegetables from our own 
garden fresh every day. The Stables are equipped with good horses, car- 
riages, spring buckboards and several good riding horses. On the hotel 
grounds are Tennis Courts, Ball Grounds, etc. 

Stages leave the house twice a day (morning and afternoon) for theAusable 
Lakes. This route takes one through one of the most wonderful and pictur- 
esque sections of the adirondacks. 

GC CD HUNTING and FISHING in season. CAMPING PARTIES sup- 
plied with reliable guides, camping outfits, etc. Five doctors own summer 
cottages near the house. 

Buy Tickets to "Westport, where Guests will be met with com- 
fortable carriages on receipt of telegram or letter 24 hours before arrival. 
(.State number of persons and quantity of baggage.) 

TERMS : Per week, $10.00 to $15.00. Per day, $2.50. Single meals, 75 cts. 
Special rates for the season on application. 

SOLOMON KELLEY, Proprietor, 
KEENE VALLEY, - ESSEX COUNTY, N. Y. 

XKHMiAZUS HOUSE. 

KFENE VALLEY, NEW YORK. 

The best of beds, the best of fare. Telegraph ofhce at post office, close by. 

RATES, $2 per day ; $■? to S12 per week. Open June ist to October 15th. 
Dining room enlarged. New Cottage connected with thehpuse. Five Cottages 
to I^et. Accommodations for 75 guests. 

GEO. EGGLEFIEL'3, PROPRIETOR. 




Keene Valley, Essex Co., N. Y. MARTIN BAHLER, A.M., Prop. 

MONROE HOLT, Manager, 

RATES, $10.00 per week ; $2.00 per day ; full price for children over 5 yrs. 
No transients. No Hebrews. Accommodations for about 35 guests. Open 
from ist of July. 

The most magnificent mountain scenery of the adirondacks is found in and 
around Keene valley, Flume Cottage is beautif-ully situated on a grassy ridge 
at the entrance of " Washbond's Flume." Special attention paid to home 
comforts, and unusual facilities afforded for visiting points of interest. Table 
first-class, with an abundance of fresh vegetables. Running Water from the 
high mountains in the rear of the premises. Conveyance sent to meet par- 
ties at Westport. Daily mail. Telegraph and express. Send for descrip- 
tive circular with full particulars. Address, until June 20, SUMMIT,N. J. 

BOOK OF PICTURES. 

ELIZABETHTOWN AND KEENE VALLEY, 16 pages 5i^ x 7 
inches, by mail 75 cents. 

Address S. R. STODDARD, Glens Falls, N. Y. 



240 

1S32. • — • a?:Ea:E — is©2. 

CHATe:AUGAY RAIUROAP 

BETWEEN 

PLATTSBURGH AMD 8ARANAC LAKE, 

The Short All-Rail Line to the 

IN CONNECTION WITH THE 

de;uawar^ and hudson r. r, 



THE ONLY LINE TO 



Crazy, GRATEAasAY and Saranac 
bAKES anb Lake Plagib. 

Only Eight Mile Stage Ride, Saranac Lake to Lake Placid. 



Drawing Room Cars 011 all Trains 

Wagner Palace Sleeping Cars on all Night Trains, and 
Wagner Drawing Room Cars on all Day Trains between 

NEW YORK AND PLATTSBURGH. 



TICKETS, SLEEPING p^^^ DRAWING ROOM CAR ACCOMMODATIONS, 
and BAGGAGE CHECKED from the PROMINENT HOTELS. 



A. L. INMAN, M. L. FRENCH, Supt., 

Gen'l Manager. Plattsburgh, N. Y. 



"Rnirn'S" 



241 

UPPER 
CHATEAUCAY LAKE. 
Open June 15th to October. 

Rates $3 per day ; $14 to $17.50 per week. Special Rates for 

J. W. HUTTON, Proprie tor. 

UPPER CHATEAUGAY LAKE . 



INDIAN POINT NOOSE, 



Pure air and water. No malaria, Boating bath n| Trout fishmg a 
specialtv. Native game, including Bear and Deer, ^^^^^^^ °X g"^^^^^^ 
house. BOARDper day, $1.50, Per week, |8-oo ^o ^^^VrVmiT AsHING in 
at reasonable rates, Special advantages offered for TROU 1 i^ibJriiJNl, m 

July and August. ^^^^^^^ R. M. SHUTTS, Merrill, Clinton County, N. ¥ . 

«. ^«ii.<»« ^VWff^ ■m.im.I ADIRONDACKS. 

GTZlINRllM/ INN J. M. WARDNER, prop. 
fVrllllDwW Illll| p. O. Rainbow, N. Y. 

THE BEST HUNTING, BOATING AND FISHING GR^^^^ 
FOUND IN THE ADIRONDACKS. RECENT ADDITIONS AND IM 
PROVEMENTS. House new and commodious. Post ^PfJ^e and telegrapn 
office in the house. Mails daily Carriages connect .^^^h all ti^ams both 
ways. Parties leaving New York at 7:30 P. M- arrive f ^^f ^^^^7^'" ^i"J|*J! 
dinner the following day. A bountiful supply of fresh eggs ^^i^^ a"'^^\^/^^ 
tables from Rainbow farm. Board, per day, $2.50 ; P/^veek $10.00 to $15^00 
Rainbow Lake abounds in the finest trout and atfords the best trolling ana 
flyfishing. It has been restocked with 800,000 ^fout the last 5 years, ine 
largest lake trout on record was caught here-wt. 52 lbs Boats S^^^^es a^^^ 
supplies for parties camping out.. Boating parties ^^-^^^ w^^hin 50 feet of the 
house and have uninterrupted sailing through numerous lakes for over 12 
miles. This is noted feeding gr ound for deer. 

mKWWtM HOUSE, ^^J^!&^:s!^\^^tp. 

between the Upper Saranac and Raquette waters. Newly f^J"^^^,^ J^X 
surroundings beautified. Will.be keptm hi-st-class manner We xn ill make 
every effort to please the sporting people. Deer seen almost da Y from the 
house. Abundance of trout in the pond and brooks withinthnty lods o 
the door. Stage to Tupper Lake $2.00. Open May to November. Boaici 
$2.50 per day ; $xo to $.4 per --^^HARLES WARDNER, JProprie tor. 

nATT-nn nnHITlAnT' SAKANAC T.AKE. a. j. baker. Prop t ietor 
BiKER Gun AIjIj. terms $8 to $10 PERWEEK^__ 

THE NEW ADIRONDACK HOUSE> ^^^^^^^^^ 

"„ '~~ 7 ^^ On I.ake DuaneTlFranklin County, N.T. 

liAYn AVrDC n mlles south of Malone. House new and in 

tlvlkL f\TLI\^, First-Class condition. Rates $2 to $3 per 
day;$ioto$i7.soperweek. Correspondence solicited. ,,. p xr y 

W. J. AYEKS & SON, Proprietors, Lake Dua ne, Franklin Co., M. Y 

Mountain View m&^ lF^^:roZ-Mf^^^^^^^^'' 
BLUE MQUNW^IN H0«^E. =• ?«o^.^s^p?inI'cTi^ 



242 



5 Hotel ^mf eVra/\^ ^ 



OPEN THE ENTIRE YEAR. 



On Lqwer Smnnc LnE =2^^ 
^22= HDiiienDncti nouninini 

Telegraph and Post Office Address, 

Ampersand, Franklin County, N. Y. 



THE AMPERSAND is fitted up with the most comfortable 
and modern conveniences, elevator, bath rooms, steam heat, 
open fire places, gas, electric bells, etc. Fresh Jersey milk 
and vegetables from the Hotel farm. It is the starting point 
for all resorts and camping spots in the woods. The Amper- 
sand offers special advantages for the amusement of young people — 
music, tennis court, base ball fields, boating, riding, etc. Tally-Ho 
Coaches meet all trains at Saranac Lake, distance one-mile. Sleep- 
ing and parlor cars on all trains. 

Transients $4 per day. Diagram of rooms and illustrated book 
free on application, other information cheerfully given, Post Office 
and General Store in the Hotel. Boats, guides. Fishing Tackle, Guns, 
Camp Outfits and Supplies furnished, Time Tables, Etc, Address, 






243 

CHANCE IN MANACEMENT. 

MILLER'S SARANAC LAKE HOUSE 



/^ 



On the Shores of Lower Saranac Lake. J 

I i 



The management of this well known pleasure resort (which has 
been under lease the past two seasons), has been resumed by the 
owner. Improvements have been made to more fully meet the re- 
quirements of a first-class hotel. 

Large open fire places in office, parlors and dining-room. Nearly 
surrounded by a broad piazza. i,ooo feet of promenade. Accom- 
modations for 300 guests. 

ROOMS LARGE AND WELL TENTILATED. 

Single or in suits of from two to six communicating. Electric 
bells and all modern improvements. The sanitary condition of the 
house has been improved and every precaution taken to attain per- 
fection. Pure spring water. Connected with the house is a superior 
vegetable garden and dairy farm which supplies the tables. Trout 
and venison in their season. 

THE LOCATION AND CLIMATE 

Is highly recommended by eminent physicians for those suffering 
from lung and pulmonary diseases. Malaria and Hay Fever are 
unknown. 

SUPERIOR HUNTING AND FISHING 

Deer, trout, wild duck and other game in the immediate neigh- 
borhood. Trout are abundant in this lake and the brooks flowing 
into it. Lake trout trolling and fishing is the best in May and June. 
Fly fishing in July and August. Deer shooting in August, Septem- 
ber and October. Partridge and duck shooting during the fall 
months. 

AMUSEMENTS. 

Boating, shooting, fishing, hunting, driving, croquet, bowling, 
billiards, lawn tennis, etc. 

A FIRST-CLASS LIYERY AND A GENERAL STORE 

Connected with the house. Parties can be supplied with all the 
necessaries for camping, including guns, fishing tackle, blankets, etc. 

Telegraph, post-office and daily mail (New York daily papers 
delivered the day of their publication, and Sunday papers at noon.) 

Terms per day, $3 to $4. $14 to $21 per week. Special rates for 
prolonged stay. 

Diagrams of house and city references furnished on application. 

For further particulars address 

MILO B. MILLER, Proprietor. 

H. H. TousLEY, Manager. Saranac Lake, N. Y. 



244 



SARANAe»INN, 

UPPER SARANAC LAKE. 

Post Office Address. SARANAC INN, Franklin Co., N. Y. 



THE COUNTRY OF FISH AND CAME AND 
HEALTHFUL RECREATION. 



TERMS AT THE INN, - ^4.00 Per Day. 

Qpecial Rates t>y- the Week. 



Trotit Eishirig from May ist to September 15th. 

Deer tixxtnting from August 15th to November ist. 

Boats, Guides, Fishing Tackle, Supplies and Camp outfits furnished 
at the house. Correspondence solicited. Circulars and Maps sent 
on application. 

D. W. RIDDLE, Manager. 

TPE PTEIi W^WBEEK, 

(dPPER SARANAC LAKE.) 

This elegant house has been enlarged during the winter and will 
open for its third season about June loth under new management. 

The hotel is situated in the heart of the bunting and fishing section 
that is free from preserve regulations, its location on the Western 
slope of the lake, at a high elevation above the water, affords a beau- 
tiful and extended view of lake and mountain scenery. 

The appointments of the house are modern and complete, open 
fires, public and private baths, electric bells, &c., broad verandas, 
and spacious grounds. 

THE SERVICE and CUSINE will be of the HIGHEST ORDER. 

A general store in connection. Telegraph and Post-office in hotel. 
Terms $4.00 per day, special rates by the week for the season. 

Address for circulars or information. 

F. W. FOSTER, *.• Wawbeek, Franklin Co., N. Y. 



245 

OHILDWOLD PARK HOUSE, 

AND COTTAGES. 

LAKE MASSAWEPIE, OHILDWOLD PARK. 

NEW UAILROAD ROUTE. 70 NEW ROOMS. 30 OPEN EIRE-PLACES. 

Is an exceedingly attractiv Game and Fish Preserve, charmingly located in the 
Wilderness of the Adirondacks. 

The Park consists of upwards of five thousand acres, embracing Lake 
Massavvepie and a group of fine, charming, mountain lakelets. 

THP: CHILDWOLD park house was erected in 1889 by the owners of 
the Childwold Estate. It is located in a fine grove of majestic forest trees, 
between two of the Park Lakes and commands an uninterrvipted view of 
Lake Massawepie. The House is thoroughly constructed, pleasantly and 
conveniently arranged, and admirably adapted to promote the comforts 
and health of its guests. The table will be supplied with the best the N. Y. 
and Boston markets afford. 

The hunting and fishing are excellent. Canoes and experienced guides 
can be procured at the hotel. 

The soil is of a gravelly nature and readily absorbs moisture. The lakes 
are peculiarly free fromfogs. Malaria and Hay Fever are unknown. 

A city physician occupies a cottage in the vicinity of the hotel, and may 
be summoned atany time should his services be required. 

Childwold Park House is reached from Boston, via Central Vermont R. R. 
From New York, via N. Y. C. * H. R. R. R. WAGNER CARS FROM BOSTON AND 
NEW YORK TO CHILDWOLD STATION. Also reached from Plattsburg. via 
Chateaugay R. R. and Sarauac Lakes, and Adirondack and St. Lawrence R. R. 

TER.HS, $3.00 per day. Special Rates by week or season. 

Send for illustrated book. Daily Mail and Telegraph at hotel. 

WM. F. INGOLD, Ma nager, Childwold, N. Y. 

r VyPlJ YICW nV/VJOIlj will be abundantly supplied 
from the adjoining farm with milk, cream, tresh eggs, berries, and vege- 
tables and game in their season. 

Every effort will be made to insure the comfort and welfare of guests. 

The Hunting and Fishing are the very best. Catamount Pond is directly 
opposite the house. Boats and competent guides can be had at all times. 
Livery in connection with the hotel. Accommodations for 100 guests. 

TERMS %i per day. $8 to $12 per week. 
Special rates for the season. Address E. P. GALE, Prop., Gale, N. Y. 

RAILROAD FACILITIES. 

The Pond View House is six miles bv stage from Childwold Station, North- 
thern Adirondack Railroad. Pullman Cars Boston to Childwold Station. 
Wagner Cars New York to Childwold Station. 



PDAUDrDDV TATTT UflTTClIT? i>6oo feet above the sea. Best Sporting 
liltiilllJDllllI LfiiVtl nUUlJLl Grounds in the Adirondacks. Guides, 
boats, etc., furnished, Board $10,50 per week ; S2.00 per day. 

MRS. E. J. BIS BOP, Cranberry Lake, N. Y. 

WeNTON house, ''^^Y^^\^^oi^TY. 

More Deer and Trout than in any other part of the Adirondacks. Cot- 
tages and ample play grounds make it a most desirable place for families 
during the summer.' As a health resort it is conceded to be at the head. 
Board, Si3 per day ; SO to $10 per week. 

Address, 0HA.RLS3 FENTON, Number Four, Lewis Co., N. Y. 



246 
TURRER L-KICE HOUSE, 

T. & B. HATCH, , , * F'ROF'RIETORS. 

P. O. Address, Tupper Lake, Franklin Co., N. Y. 

Recommendation. — " The Dest location for sport and as healthful as any 
in the Adirondacks." — Dr. Alfred L. Loomis. 

This House is located at the head of Big Tupper Lake, at an elevation of 
1,575 feet above the sea, and is in the very center of the Lake Region, to which Dr. 
Loomis in his lecture before the Medical Society of the State of New York, called 
the attention of the profession (Vide Med. Rec, Vol. 15, No. 17, April 26, 1879). It 
is spacious and elegant, containing accommodations for one hundred guests. It 
contains large bedrooms, ranging in size from 11x13 to 15x17 feet, and has open fire- 
places in the parh:)r and principal bedrooms. Cold water is brought into all the floors 
of the house from a mountain spring. 

ADVANTAGES TO GUESTS. 

Located at the entrance of the GREAT MUD LAKE COUNTRY, this house 
offers advantages to sportsmen who desire to camp near their families, and yet be 
in the part of the Adirondacks where deer and trout are found in abundance. 

To those seeking rest and recreation it offers with its large, airy and well ven- 
tilated rooms, superior location and benefits, there being fine lake trout fishing in 
Tupper's Lake, and brook trout fishing in the adjacent lakes and rivers, no fatiguing 
journey is required for a day's sport. 

The temperature in the hottest months seldom rises above 80 degrees. No 
mosquitoes. The house is supplied with vegetables fresh from T,be hc+el garden. 

Kafes ^3.00 per day ; ^14 to $21 per week. Special for a longer 
term. 

In connection with the hotel is a supply and provision store stocked with the 
best goods the New York market affords, (\unpers can rely upon getting at fill 
times, in this store, everything np<'d<-d in the shape of provisions and eroc^iics, 
both staple and fancy. The proprietors buy goods of first hands in New York and 
will Bell at New York retail prices with freight only added. 

Dr. Webb's new road, The Adirondack and St. Lawrence R. R. when com- 
pleted in Julv will be the most direct route to the hotel. 

Daily mail after June Ist. Steamer runs to connect with trains on the North- 
ern Adirordack Railroad, Tupper Lake Station. Through Cars from Grand 
Central Station, New York. 

REDSIDE CAMP, East Side Tupper Lake, 

Hunting and fishing resort. Rates $1.50 per day ; $10 to $12 per week. Steamer 
daily to Tupper Lake Station. Through trains to New York $12.70. Post office in 

the house. Address MARTIN MOODY, Proprietor, 

IMIoociy, F'jcaii.33::X±ix Co., UST, "ST. 

TVYOOSe RI^eR HOTOL. 

Western gateway to the Adirondacks. On the way to The Fulton Chain of 
Lakes. Accommodation for 30 guests. Board $2 per day ; $7 to $10 per week. 

C. M. BARRETT^ Proprietor, 

Address for Special Conveyance into the Woods. 

'T^Tyf\ IVI D I p p ' S RAQUETTE RIVER, south end of Sweeney 
* ■VvJl lOl^L^L^ Of Carry. Daily Mail and Express to 
Saranac Lake. .Splendid River Fishing. BOARD, $10 per week ; $2.00 per 
day. OPEN MAY ist to NOVEMBER ist. Eight Miles from Tupper Lake 
Station, N. A. R. R. P. O. Address, 

OLIVER TROMLEE, Wawbeek, N. Y. 



247 



J5^IDf:^ONIDJ^G^KB 




ippop * ^ake * ^o(el, 



L.HKE ¥=>L.T^Gir>, N. V. 



oKccorrirrLo^citioaA for 2\QQ 6yuex^tx^. 



c^RhL IMPROVEMENTS.---^ 

ELECTRIC LIGHT. STEAM HEAT, 

ELEVATOR, TENNIS. BOWLING, 

BILLIARDS. BAND,^^^ORCHESTRA. 



l^afes, fgfo f/f pi^ da^; $17-50 to $28 pef WeeP?. 

* -A-IDIDI^ESS, » 



248 



FURNI/HED ' CflnrS • AND - CoTTflQES, 

Cottage and Camp Sites, in the Adirondacks, 
Apply to CLARENCE M. NOBLE, 33 Pine Street, N. Y. 



^^Wmm Km 




LAKE FL/ICID, N. T. 

Tor Terms write W. Z. LAKNED, Pres't. 170 Broadway, N. Y. 



''I^SS MM lyiJiil Esse:^ CO., 3Sr. Y. 
Overlooks Lake Placid and Mirror Lake. Large rooms. Sanitary arrangements 
perfect. Pure spring water. Telegraph in hotel. Stages meet all trains on Chat- 
eaugay R. R. at Saranac Lake, lerms $3. per day ; $14 to 17.50 per week. 

HENRY ALLEN, Proprietor. 



V^h<V Fac^ Mrxr 



Formerly ''The Wayside." 

Change in Manngetnent. 
THE A^^DIBONDACK CO., 
Owners. 

Capacity 100. Rates S^ per day. $18 per week. Open June 15th to November. 
Mrs. M. S. ELMENDOBFfiLate of tJieLake Placid Hottse.)Manager. 

Jf. O. Address, LAKE FJLACID, N. Y. 

UNDER-OLIFF ^ 

c^-^ON LAKE PLACID, 

The private camp of a physician enlarged by additional cottages for families and 
single parties, a general assembly r< om, and a central dining hall, for those seeking 
the benefitsof mountain air. It is in no sense a sanitarium, and every appearance of 
invalidism is carefully avoided. Accomodations for 50 guests. The Attractions are: 
The sanative benefitsof comfortable camp-life with a simple, generous, carefully 
served table ; quiet and rest in surpassing mountain-lake scenery; wild woods, 
boating and fishing. Lake Placid village, with hotels, stores, telegraph and 
post office, is four miles across the lake, accessible by steam and row boat. 

jd:ei. ch-A-S- id. ^a^ltohst. 

Until July 1 St. 1 After July 1st. 

HARTFORD, CONN. I LAKE PLACID, N. Y. 



G.-r.-nnRvin/rnGTOGinrtiEi!. 

AND PUBLISHER OF 

/lbIROND/lQKii!!£/IM SflPLE CMflSfl VIEWS, 

PORTRAITS in all the popular styles and sizes made with greatest care. All 
FIELD WORK, VIEWS AND INTERIORS promptly executed. 

Will be in KEENE VALLEY, from July 15th to Augrust 1st. 
BEEDfL'S from Aug-ust 1st to Aug-ust 10th. 

LAKE PLACID, from August 10th to September 10th. 

All orders promptly filled and work done in any part of Adirondack region 
Correspondence solicited. Crayon Work a Specialty. 



249 





A)>lkON>ACK$. 

IN THE nOUNTfllNS. 

J\\ IKe liQ-ix^ of 

ORLANDO BEEDE, Proprietor, 

-^DEEDr VEm°CO .,°n.T.^ 

Open June 15th to October 1st. 

Mail, Telephone, Livery, and convenient Stage Service. Spacious 
rooms, open fire-places, steam heat, pure water, and perfect drain- 
a.s:e are all provided for. 

Wild wood Paths to Streams and Waterfalls. 



Trails to the tops of Maroy, Skylight, Gothics, 
Colvin, Dlx, Noonmark and the Giant. 

Opens Under Same Management, June 1. 



1^0 J^ PARTICULARS ADDRESS, 



250 



CLEA[^LAt^E, [s]OI^Th| ELB/^. 

^1^6 bar^^st and {^andsom^sf ♦ ♦ 

♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ b©(a building in fl?^ Onifed States, 

And the most comfortable house in the Adirondack Region. Taste- 
fully built, in rustic style throughout, it is thoroughly 
comfortable and fitted with 

Located in the midst of various attractions of the 
Adirondack Mountains, 

Tri!.il$ K^fli^Ie from Ite toJ^e 
Directly to the following points : 
THE INDIAN PASS, ^^ ^^^ 

AVALANCHE PASS, ^^ t£^ 

MOUNT MARCY, ^ ^ ^^ 

MOUNT McINTYRE, 

MOUNT JO (or "The Bear"), 
MOUNT GOLDEN, 

SOUTH MEADOW BASIN. 

All of these trails have been carefully cut by experienced guides, 
expressly for the Lodge, and others will be added during the summer. 

The Lodge is the headquarters for mountain climbing in the 
Adirondacks. 

For particulars address, 

HENRY VAN HOEVENBERGH, 

Proprietor Adirohdack Lodge. 

Nortli Elba, Essex Co., N.Y. 
©f ^. ^. eA^GnciJ, I^oom 2§, 44 BroadWa^;, \l. ^. 




251 



Wayside Inn and Cottages,- 

v . ^ ,• .1^- c- J ^.^A UnA 



LAKE LUZEENE, 
U. Y. 

LocaTedat the confluence of the Sacandaga and Hudson Rivers.^y^^^^ 
ABOVE TIDE-WATER. Twenty miles from Saratoga on the AdirondacK Kaii 
^oa? wJstern Unton Telegraph i'n the house. The best of accommodat.ons ; 
cusine unexcelled ; fine drives. $3.50 and $4.00 perday. ^I^^^^^^^J^iJa ^er. 
and September. •"' J . 

POTTERSVILLE HOTEL, 

FOOT 0F~^ 



Hunting and Fishing Resort. Dining place for Schroon Lake passengers. 
Rates §2.00 per day ; $7-00 to $10.00 per week. Special for the season. 

JOHN B. WELLS, - - Proprietor. 

p. O. ADDRESS, POTTERSV ILLE, N. Y, 

Eiverside to Scroon Lake. 
EUOENE LEAVITT, Proprietor. 



te^vitl S^^^^ ^^^' 




Leav"'es Riverside on^rrival.oi all trainsfrom the south. Returning leaves Schroon 
LaK to^on'ect w.tlftrains^for Saratoga, Fare $1. New four and six-horse Con- 
cord coaches afford a delightful ride through a Picturesque region. 

Invalids or parties mshing easy carriages or Special rigs of any kind, can 
secure such on reasonable terms by addressing at Po ttersviUe. ^^^ 

MAP OF THE ADIRONDACK WILDERNESrJ^5--SB-^ 

out." Shootina and Fishing-" State officials consult ^t^^^d the Fish Com 
missioners depend upon it for use of the State Game P^^otectoi s FocKei: 
Edition on Map-Bond Paper, Post Paid, « 1.00. Address S. K. Stoddard, 
Glens Falls, N. Y. 



252 



eland Q>puse and (^tages^- 

THIS POPULAR HOUSE which contains first-class accommodations for 200 
guests, open June 15 to October i. Hotel grounds extend to the Lake on two sides, 
and are ornamented with trees, shrubbery, summer houses, etc Delightful loca- 
tion, Fine Scenery, High Elevation and 





Pure Water. Finest Boating, Bathing, 
Driving, Fishing and Hunting in the 
Adirondacks. Carriage, Boat, Express 
and Telegraph Office in the Hotel. 
Good Stables. 

The pleasure of rural and forest 
life are here combined wiih modern 
conveniences and social privileges in a 
greater degree than in any other place 
in Northern New York. Terms, tran- 
sient per day. $3, $3.50 ; by the week, 
$12.50 to $25. Special arrangements 
for prolonged stay. 

Send for circulars and diagram 



L. R. Sl E. D. LOCKE, Proprietors. 



-A.X>II?,OIsriD.A.CICS . 



XflTLOK HOUSE =""" "'=°'"s^c5y:°^ggaS-"i.^icE, 

■ among the pines. Capacity 175 Guests. Electric Lights. Pure Spring Water, all 

Sanitary Arrangements complete. Amusements, Music fur Parlor Hops, Billiard I'arlor, 
Bowling Alley, Lawn Tennis and Croquet grounds. Kales, S2.50 to $3.00 per day ; $11 to $21 
per week. For full particulars and illustrated circular, address 

C. F. TAYLOR Sl SON, Prop's. 

r. O. TATI.OB' 8-on-SCHROON, Warren Co., N. F. 

SCHROON LAKE, Terms, $2 per day ; $8 to $12 per week. Pleasant- 
ly situated in a shady grove, on the west side of the Lake, half a mile from the 
village. Steamer bffingham will land you at the house. The rooms are large and 
well furnished Table one of the leading features. Send fr.r circular and cut of 
house. Capacity 75 guests. W A. MA CKJEXZIE, Jr. rrojtrietor. 





Open from June 20th to October ist. Terms per day, $2.25 : Adults, per week 
$10.50 to $14 ; children and nurses $7. E. E. RID DELL, Proprietor, (formerly of 
the Riddell House, Luzerne, Warren Co., N. Y.) Best of Reference on application 
Special rates to excursionists. 



253 

CHESTERTOWN, - - N. Y. 

OPEN ALL THE YEAR. 

High dry land. Pure air. Mountain Spring Water. Fine Drives 
and best bass fishing in the Adirondacks. A First-class Livery con- 
ne( ted. Terms, $2 to $2.50 per day ; $10 to |i2 per week. 

V^IcK*I(ock*HoId 

AND COTTAGES, 

CDjol ScItLx^ooziL Lallsie, 

Opens June 15. Closes Oct. 1. GEO. CECIL, Owner and Prop'r. 

Adirondack, Warren Co , N. Y. 

^^AMERICAN HOTEL,^^ 

NORTH CREEK, Warren Co., N. Y. JOHN MclNERNY, Prop. 

Main Street, three minutes' walk from Adirondack Company's Depot. 
Refitted and furnished throughout in first-class style. 

BOARD $6 to $10 per week ; meals 50c. Trout and Game in their season. 

N. B.— A first Class Liivery attached to the House. 

Parties wishing private conveyances to the wilderness, at reasonable 
prices can be accommodated. 

Address, JOHN MclNERNY, North Creek, N. Y. 

NORTH RIVER HOTEL 

is on the Hudson River, 5 miles from the terminus of the Adirondack 
Railroad, at North Creek on the 

Birect road to Blue Mountain LaKe, aud is lUe regular dining place for passengers 

going and coming. TELEGRAPH connection with the Western Union. 

Stages and patent Canopy-top Buckboards carry guests to and from all 
trains. 

MEALS 75 Cts; $2.60 per day; $10 to $15 per week. 

Buckboards run to this house on arrival of afternoon trains at North Creek 
and can be had for Blue Mountain Lake next morning. 

W. H. ROBLEE, Prop. N. River Hotel. P. 0. N. River, Warren Co. 



254 

Blue Mountain Lake House, 

JOHN G. HOLLAND, Proprietor, 

Blue Mountain baKe, * * ♦ ^^amilfon ^o., \i. ^. 

Blue Mountain Lake is the Gem of the Adirondack Lakes, and is 
located in the heart of the Great Wilderness, 1.800 feet above tide. 

The New Blue Mountain Lake House is a large, durable structure, located 
on a dry sandy elevation 50 feet above the Lake, and with its outlying cot- 
tages, furnishes ample accommodations for over three hundred guests. 
Main Parlor 80x40 feet ; Dining Room 125x40 feet. 

Everything new, plain, cleanly, comfortable and home-like. First-class 
hair mattresses and woven wire springs in every sleeping room. 

Pure Mountain Spring Water, Perfect Drainage, Absolute freedom from 
malaria. Positive proof against all forms of Hay Fever. 

The surrounding scenery is a poem of beauty, and the pure, dry, invig- 
orating atmosphere is Nature's Life-giving tonic. The breezes blow over 
pine, spruce and other gvimmy and resinous trees, which statistics prove 
conducive to health and longevity. Table first-class in every respect. 
Vegetables and milk fresh from the hotel farm. 

OPEN FROM APRIL TO NOVEMBER. 
RATES, $3.00 Per Day. Per Week, According to Location of Rooms. 

Daily Mails. Telegraph office in the Hotel. Large Fire-places in Parlor and 
Office. Steamers leave Blue Mountain Lake House dock daily for all points. 



0)LME-ri@^PT/iIMfl@^iE, 

TTYIvBR M:. IVtERV^IN, Prop. 

Is situated at the head of Blue Motintain Lake, on an elevation of 200 feet 
above its surface and 140 rods distant. 

The view of the surrounding lakes and mountains from this point is un- 
equaled in this section. Terms"$io to $15 per week, $2 to $2.50 per day. 

Open all the Year. All communications shotild be addressed to 

TYLER M. MERWIN, Blue Mountain Lake, Hamilton Co., N. Y. 
^^Be careful and address Blue Mountain House, instead of Blue Moun- 
tain Lake House. Telegraph in house. 



LAKE PLEASANT INN. 

^A_ iDja3iiiGhi3:T:F''crx. stjhvli^ee, jei:eso:eit 

in the south part of Hamilton county. tliirty miles from Northville, the terminus of the Fonda, 
Johnstown, Gloversville and Northville Railroad. These lakes are about four and five miles 
long respectively, connecting with various other small lakes, surrounded on all sides by the 
finest natural scenery, and Is a famous resort for pleasure seekers. 

THE LAKE PLEASANT INN is situated between Lake Pleasant and Round Lake, and com- 
mands an uninterrupted view for miles around. It has recently been improved, and newly 
furnished. Row boats, Game of all kinds and good fishing abound. Trusty guides furnished . 

Stage fare from Northville $2.00. Parties will be met with conveyance at the station, if 
desired. Terms :— $3 to $2.50 per day ; $12 to $15 per week. Special rates for parties and 
famiUes. Lawn Tennis and Croquet Grounds. 



J. D. MORLEY, Prop. 



ELROY SCHOOLCRAFT, Manager. 



SAGEVILLE, HAMILTON CO., N. Y, 



Telegraph and Post Office in the House. 



255 



jB^e * /noo/\ta.<';\ 



►>b -75 N O 1^ 




STEnnBoni • [m. 



o o • o 



t[. G. THOMPSON, SuperinlendenI, 

Si)fue Mouafain bafte. 



256 

"THE AHTLERS"and "THE HEMLOCKS." 

SEASON OF 1892. 

Under the Management of 0. H. BENNETT, 
The ANTLERS opens May 1. The HEMLOCKS, July 1. 

" The Antlers" is centrally located on one of the finest points on the Lake, and com- 
mands beautiful Mountain Views of the Surrounding Country. It is built on the 
colonization plan, having in connection several Cottages that can be rented 
entire or at the usual room rates. The table is the best that can be found in the 
woods. Boats and Guides in connection with the House. Wines served at table 
only. Board $17.50 to $25. per week. 
For further information address, C. H. BENNETT, 

Raquette Liake, Hamilton County, N. Y. 



" The Hemlocks " is situated on Long Point centrally between the 
South and East Bays of the Lake. The Hotel is on a bluff and commands 
one of the most picturesque views of the Lake. It has been newly furnished 
throughout in the best possible manner. Telegraph and Post- Office within two 
minutes of Hotel. There are also several Cottages in connection with the House 
that can be rented for the season. Boats and Guides in connection with the 
House. Wines served at table only. 
For further information address, C. H. BENNETT, 

Raquette Lake, Hamilton Co., N. Y. 

BRIGRTSIDE ON RAQdETTE, 

Raquette Lake, " - Hamilton Co., N. Y. 

J. 0. Ji. Bl^YE^B, P^ePRIETOR. 

This house which has been enlarged will be open May. Terms $12 to $i 8 per 
week. $2 to $2.50 per day. The house is built on the South Shore of Indian Point 
and commands a fine view of the surrounding Mountain scenery. 

NEW YORK AND ALBANY. I 



STEAMEKS LEAVE 

Lesbrosses St. pier, N. Y. 8.40 a.m. 
22cL " " " 9.00 " 



RETURNING LEAVE 

Hamilton St., Albanj', 8.30 a. m. 



SEE THAT YOUR TICKETS READ VIA 



"DAY LINE STEAMERS." I 

Through Tickets Sold at our Offices to all Points and Baggage ! 

checked to Destination. 









(Replacing the house destroyed by fire in 1889.) 

oKcconqmoilafionA for 200 ^uexi)fA. 

OPEN ALL THE YEAR. 
'""^Jelei^rapt; ai)d Daily fr\ail5.-,,^ 

E. ByThER, - - PROPRIET0R. 



(C 



Tt]B NEW SAGAA^ORB'" 



258 



Sportsmen Never 

Enlarge 

the 

Truth 

More enthusiastically than when telling of the antlers the old 
buck carried off, or of the big fish that got away. But about a 
thing in hand exaggeration is less easy; it speaks for itself — for 
just what it is. 





(the weekly journal of fishing and shooting) 

Stands that test. We cannot begin to tell you all its good points. 
It speaks for itself. You will like its breezy sketches of sport 
with rod and reel and dog and gun; its stories of camp life, its 
accounts of tramp and cruise. Ask your dealer for the current 
number or send to us. Sample copies, lo cents. Per vean ^^4, 

We will send free Ton mention of this advt.) our illustrated Catalogue of 
best Books on Shooting, Fishing, Camping, Yachting, Canoeing, 
Boat Building, Dog Training, Natural History, Outdoor Life and 
Field Sports. Address 

rOEEST AND STREAM PUB. 00., 318 Broadway, N. Y, 



^Q^ttiH 



259 



Ray Brook House, 



Telegraph and Post Office, 
RAY BROOK, N. T. 

DUNCAN CAMERON, Proprietor. 

Midway between Saranac Lake and Lake Placid. Fish and Game a 
55pecialty of the table. Trout Fishing in Ray Brook Preserve belonging to 
the house. Address for terms, 

DUNCAN CAMERON, Ray Brook, Essex County, N. Y 



" The Algfonquin/' 

ADIRONDACK MOUNTAINS. 



Located distant from Chateaugay Railroad Station and Village of Saranac 
Lake one and a half miles, on an eminence above the Lower Saranac Lake, 
and commanding a most superb view of Mountains, Woods and Water. 

THE IDEAL MOUNTAIN RESORT, 

and acknowledged to be one of the prettiest spots in the Adirondacks. 
Extensive amusement grounds, including a good dirt Tennis Court, etc. 
in connection with the house. Good walks. First-class Livery. Safe 
Boating. Cuisine and service the best. 

Rates from $15 to $25 per week ; $3 to $4 per day. 

Telegraph and Post Office address, SARANAC LAKE, N. Y. 

JOHN HARDING, Proprietor. 

Late of Eaton & Harding, Hotel Ampersand. 
STAGE AND BUCKBOARD LINE BETWEEN 

NORTH CREEK and BLUE MOUNTAIN LAKE 



Through R. R. Tickets are sold to and from Blue Mountain Lake and all 
principal R. R. offices, and baggage checked through, and the Stage Co's, 
Agent boards all arriving trains in season to re-check baggage direct to 
hotels. 

DIRECT EXPRESS SERVICE IS MAINTAINED TO AND FROM 
ALL POINTS IN CONNECTION WITH THE ADIRONDACK AND 
NATIONAL EXPRESS COMPANIES. 

Coach Fares areas follows: From North Creek to North River, 50c.; 
to Indian Lake (P. O.) $1.80 ; to Cedar River Hotel, $2.00 ; to Blue Mountain 
Lake, $3.00. APPLICATIONS FOR BUCKBOARD CARRIAGES, time 
cards, etc., .should be made by mail or telegraph to the Supt. Adirondack 
Stage Co. Line, at North Creek. 

The six and four-horse coaches are supplemented by a large number of 
very elegant CANOPY TOP BUCKBOARD CARRIAGES, seating parties 
of 3 and 5 which can be engaged at a reasonable additional charge. 

WALTER V. V. MARSH, Supt. 



26o 



Salmo9 l^iuer l/alley, 

VEJlWYlhhE, Clinton Co., N. J. 

Fishing, Shooting, Boating and Driving. 



Splendid sport in brook-trout fishing. Streams stocked with 15,000 
young trout. Deer hunting in its season. Large numbers yarded 
within two miles of the village last winter. 

" Those who seek the country for health and comfort ; for beautiful 
scenery ; for pure air and water ; for good hunting and fishing ; for 
abundant and wholescme country fare ; for a pleasant summer home 
amid a respectable and hospitable people without the expense and 
social exaction of a fashionable summer resort, will find them all at 
Peasleville, in Clinton County, where the little Salmon River breaks 
through between the mountains in o the Champlain Valley. 

Accommodations can be found among the farm houses in the valley and ' 
on the mountain sides. Address for particulars, 

ARNOLD & RICKETSON, 

Peasleville, Clinton County, N. Y. 

Twelve Photo-Gravures of Camp and Hunting Scenes in the Adi- 
rondacks, by S. R. Stoddard, size 10x12 inches. Price $2, post paid. 

Address S. R. STODDARD, Glens Palls, N. Y. 

Map of tie Adirondack Wilderness, 

Forest and Stream. — " It is the most complete map of the Adirondack 
region ever published, and is just what is wanted by a party intending to 
camp out." Shooting" and Fishingr. — "State officials consult it and the 
Fish Commissioners depend upon it for use of the State Game Protectors." 

Pocket Edition on Map-Bond Paper, Post Paid $1 .00. 
Address S. K. STODDARD, Glens FaJls, N. Y. 

NEW MAP OF LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 

On tine map-bond paper, folded in board cover, for the pocket. Price 50c. 
On heavy plate paper for framing or office use. In mailing tubes to prevent 
creasing. Price 6oc. Postpaid on receipt of price. 

S. R. STODDARD, Publisher, Glens Falls, N. Y. 



MAPS, BOOKS AND PHOTOGRAPHS, 

PUBLISHED BY S. R. STODDARD, GLENS FALLS, N. Y. 

GUIDE BOOKS. 

The Aiirondacks, Illustrated.— 16 mo., 272 pages, pseudo- 
cloth cover, 2b cents. 

Albany Evening Journal. — " Routes, fares to different points, 
time-tables, maps, guides, and whatever else the traveler is most 
concerned in knowing, are treated clearly and intelligently." New 
YoiiK Times — " A book that may be read through from beginning 
to end at any time, and be found full of interesting reading matter." 
Trot Times. — " A delijjhtful book, well spiced with anecdote and 
adventure." 

Saratog-a, Lake G-eorg-e and Lake Champlain, historical 
and descriptive, 1(3 mo., 200 pages, pseudo-cloth cover, 25 cents. 
Contains colored map three feet long, outline cuts of mountains, 
islands, etc., as seen from the passing steamer. 

MAPS.— Map of the Adirondack "Wilderness. Pocket 

edition ou map-bon>l paper, in board cover $1.00. 

Forest & Stream. — " It is the most complete map of the Adiron- 
dack region ever published, and is just what is wanted by a party 
intending to camp out." Shooting and Fishing. — " State officials 
consult it and the Fish Commissioners depend upon it for use of 
the State Game Protectors." 

Map of Lake G-eorg-e. Scale 1 mile to an inch. Pocket 
edition on map-bond paper, board cover 50 cents. 

Map of Lake Champlain. Scale 2% miles to an inch, with 
smaller maps of the Richelieu River, and routes and distances to im- 
portant points. Pocket edition ou map-bond paper,board cover, 50cte. 

BOOKS OF PICTURES. 

Lake Gr3org"3. Twelve photogratvure plates 10x12 inches, 
comprising over 50 choice bits of Lake George scenery. Bound in 
torchon board, with illuminated title, $1.50. Among" the 
Mountains of the Adirondacks.— Ten plates. Same style 
and size as Lake George, $1 50. Throug-h the Lake Country 
of the Adirondacks.— Same as above, $1.50. The Hudson 
River, from its Source to the Sea —Same as above $1.50. 
Au Sable Chasm. — Photogravure, twelve pages of pictures, 
5J^s7 inches. Illuminated title. In mailing box, 50 cents. 

SOUVENIRS OF THE NORTH. (Price 75 cents each, 
contain from eighteen to thirty representative views of gections in- 
dicated by their titles, reproduced by the Photo-Gravure Company. 
Size 514x7 inches.) Saratoga, Lake G-eorg-e, Blue Moun- 
tain Lake, "Raquette Lake, Long- Lake, Tupper Lake 
JEleg-ion, Luzerne aud Schroon Lake, "Wild Lakes of 
the Adirondacks, (Au Sable Lakes, Tear-of-the-clourls, Ava- 
lanche, Colden, Sandford. Henderson, etc.) Elizatoethtown 
and Keene Valley, North Elba and beyond, Lake 
Placid, The Saranac Lakes, Winter at Saranac Lake, 
Glens Falls, Howes Cave. In mailins: box 75 cents each. 

PHOTOGRAPHS of the Adirondacks, Lake George, Lake 
Champlain, the Hudson River, West Point Military Academy, 
Howes Cave, Mount Desert Island, the Bay of Fundv. etc. Prices, 
per doz. Crystal Stereos, $2 00 ; Boudoir Views (5x8) $3.60; Im- 
perial Views (7x9) S6 00 ; 10x14 Views, $1.00 each ; 16x20 Views 
(unmounted) in mailing tubes. $3 00 each. 

Lantern Slides. Any subject in my collection of views at 50 
cents each. Transparencies in nickel frames 5x8 inches, $1.25 ; 
8x10 inches, $2.. 50. 

All goods above (except lantern slides and transparencies) sent 
postpaid on receipt of price. 

Address, S. R. STODDARD Glens Falls. N. Y. 



MAP OK THE> 



ADIflONDftGK WILDEI^NESS, 

BY S. R. STODDARD. 
[Light portion shows Hudson River drainage.] 




Size 25x31 Indies. Scale 4 miles to an inch. Colored in counties. 
On map-bond paper in cloth cover for carr5-ing in the pocket. $1.00. 
On heavy plate paper for framing, in mailing tube to prevent 
creasing, $1.00, post paid on receipt of price. 

S. R. STODDAED, Publisher, Gleus Falls, N, T, 



263 

Two*For*Onc.-- 

Prolection ^ ^ 

©Jo famlf^ OP ei>tat© la e>9entof eairfLj ileatR, 

Profil^tk InYe5lment ^ 

iJop ijourj^eff ir^ e^enf of fon^ fife. 
S^otR for ffte price of oi^® uacjer a contracf 

of me 





NEff YORK LIFE 



I 



JOHN A. MCCALL, PRESIDENT. 
(lsis\i eAssGfs, o\?6r $125,000,000. 
gufplas, '^ 15,000,000. 

Examine the ^^ POLICY WITH SPECIAL 
GUARANTEES," and the 'INSURANCE BOND 
WITH GUARANTEED INTEREST." 

b. n. /ITER5, QENERflL AlQEMT, 

Rooms 12 and 13 Union Bank Building, 



TI^O"X"^ 3sr, -2". 



264 



TKq KjDJ^k C^IDQr^ 




A system whicli admits of the practice of photog- 
raphy without the least knowledge of the art is 
presented by the "Kodak." 

Anyone can use this camera. The operation oi 
making a picture consists simply of pressing a but^ 
ton. No dark room or chemicals are necessary. 
From twenty-four to one hundred pictures are made 
without reloading. 

By the aid of the "Kodak" a comj)lete illus- 
trated record of every day incidents, a picturesquej 
diary of every trip, beautiful bits of landscape and 
hundreds of interesting scenes may be readily ob- 
tained. 

PRICES, $6.00 TO $65.00. 



THE # EASTMAN # COMPANY. 

ROCHKSTKR, IST. Y. 
For sale by all Photo. Stock Dealers. Send for Catalogue. 



i 1 ? 





LIBRARY OF CONGRESb 




014 114 301 3 « 



